newbie needs help on simple question

I am just a newbie in clay and throwing-- just got my own wheel after
taking some private lessons. My question: how can I rig up something at
home for kneading the clay? I mean, should I glue some canvas to an old
table, or use a staple gun to snugly attach canvas to the top of an old
table, to provide the surface for kneading clay?

"Beowulf" wrote in message
news
I am just a newbie in clay and throwing-- just got my own wheel after
taking some private lessons. My question: how can I rig up something at
home for kneading the clay? I mean, should I glue some canvas to an old
table, or use a staple gun to snugly attach canvas to the top of an old
table, to provide the surface for kneading clay?


That sounds good, vinyl fabric upside down works well too. It is tough,
wears well and much cheaper than canvas. Stapled is I think the best
method.

"Beowulf" wrote in message
news
I am just a newbie in clay and throwing-- just got my own wheel after
taking some private lessons. My question: how can I rig up something at
home for kneading the clay? I mean, should I glue some canvas to an old
table, or use a staple gun to snugly attach canvas to the top of an old
table, to provide the surface for kneading clay?

Congratulations, and welcome
to your next addiction (:)
First of all, you "knead" bread,
you "wedge" clay.
Same thing, different materials...ok?

For you, just starting out, try using a
double or triple thickness of canvas
clamped to a table top.
Don't glue it, as it will eventually get
dirty and you will want to wash it, or
clean it somehow.
Staples are semi-permanent. I would
recommend you put the canvas on
some plywood, and clamp it all around
the edges with some of those spring
clamps all the hardware stores sell cheap.
(You can also buy the canvas as
painters "drop cloths" at the hardware
store.) Clamping will let you undo it quickly
if you need the table for something else.
Hope that helps,
Wayne Seidl

I do exactly what Wayne has described with the clamps, although I'm a bit
embarassed to say, without the canvas. The 1/4" plywood absorbs a bit of
the clay's moisture, cleans fairly easily and I haven't had any splinters
get into my clay. This may be completely wrong, but I've had no problems
with it and it's easy as pie.
Simon
"wayneinkeywest" wrote in message
...

"Beowulf" wrote in message
news
I am just a newbie in clay and throwing-- just got my own wheel after
taking some private lessons. My question: how can I rig up something at
home for kneading the clay? I mean, should I glue some canvas to an old
table, or use a staple gun to snugly attach canvas to the top of an old
table, to provide the surface for kneading clay?

Congratulations, and welcome
to your next addiction (:)
First of all, you "knead" bread,
you "wedge" clay.
Same thing, different materials...ok?

For you, just starting out, try using a
double or triple thickness of canvas
clamped to a table top.
Don't glue it, as it will eventually get
dirty and you will want to wash it, or
clean it somehow.
Staples are semi-permanent. I would
recommend you put the canvas on
some plywood, and clamp it all around
the edges with some of those spring
clamps all the hardware stores sell cheap.
(You can also buy the canvas as
painters "drop cloths" at the hardware
store.) Clamping will let you undo it quickly
if you need the table for something else.
Hope that helps,
Wayne Seidl

wrote in message
.. .
I do exactly what Wayne has described with the clamps, although I'm a bit
embarassed to say, without the canvas. The 1/4" plywood absorbs a bit of
the clay's moisture, cleans fairly easily and I haven't had any splinters
get into my clay. This may be completely wrong, but I've had no problems
with it and it's easy as pie.
Simon
Simon:
Don't feel bad. I'm limited to a 10'X14' (3m by 4m) space
and have to use my table for a lot of different things. Many hobby potters
are in similar situations. You might want to consider covering the plywood,
though. In time, the moisture from the clay could delaminate the plywood,
unless you are using an exterior or
marine grade. If you have access to a Lowe's or Home Depot Store (a large
home center) you can buy sheets of canvas for as little as $4.99US. It
gives me three layers thick on a 3'X5' (1mX1.6m) surface. I use the canvas
over a substance called HardieBacker, which is a 1/4 inch (6mm) thick cement
board for use on walls to install tile. Absorbs quite a bit of moisture,
and it's very durable.
Wayne Seidl

How do you plan on recycling your clay? Do you have room for a small
(2X1.5) plaster form?
"Beowulf" wrote in message
news
I am just a newbie in clay and throwing-- just got my own wheel after
taking some private lessons. My question: how can I rig up something at
home for kneading the clay? I mean, should I glue some canvas to an old
table, or use a staple gun to snugly attach canvas to the top of an old
table, to provide the surface for kneading clay?

Mason Batchelder on fri 21 apr 00 )
I believe this could already be in the archives as I wrote of it before
,however maybe it was mailed direct as I often have done.
Those of us who prefer a palster wedging table can make the weight factor
less of a problem with this approaach-
USING 2"x 4" LUMBER, I built a table with a shelf below with enough height
under the shelf for stowing normal pails the height you commonly use.
The 4 legs come to the level of the finished desired height, depending on
the
users preference
.A piece of scrap plywood is placed to become the removable floor for the
table and blocks screwed to the leg members work well.A piece of wire mesh
(CALLED HARDWARE CLOTH HERE)like is used for rabbit cages with small
squares
can replace this when removed, if desired.A wall of 2"X4" above the floor
but
resting on it and secured to the leg members with galvanized screws(DECK
SCREWS WORK) form the walls, butted or mitered you choose .When the
carpentry
has been completed , a table with a rectangular recessed void.Now, using
plastic "SOLO" (BRAND) or solid plastic cups( bathroom size) cups and add
carpenter's glue to their rims and, leaving a wide border ,(keeping any 2
cups diameter from the edges of the walls) glue the cups rim side down to
the removable plywood floor with one cup being used as a guide to measure
a
seperation of 1 cup away from each others giving a reverse egg carton look
to
the project, and allow it to dry a couple days.When the glue is completely
dry, they should have a suitable distance from the top of the edge of the
void 2"X4" 's and using a plaster calculator from US gypsum (ESTIMATE THE
PROPER PROPORTIONS FOR THE SIZE YOU ARE FILLING-t subtracting the cups'
volume) AND MIX THE PLASTER ( I have used moulding and #1 pottery
PLASTER-BOTH HAVE DONE EQUALLY WELL OVER THE YEARS IF MIXED PROPERLY AND
RELIEVED OF THE BUBBLES BY JARRING THE FILLED FORM.)
When the plaster is all mixed and the last poured (two people or more , if
a
big form) overfill a bit and use a good stiff clean edge straight edge to
level the top by drawing it cleanly across.The table jaring will help fo
give
a smooth surface.
I always use a 12 ounce canvas that I purchase from a good art supply
store
or heavy cotton duck from a huge department store's fabric dept the kind
you
would use to redo deck chairs.
I nail the canvas under the bottom edge using artist's canvus puller
plyers
if you have them (ASK AN ARTIST FRIEND WHO STRETCHES CANVAS).I use
galvanized
roofing naills with the flat heads to secure it and make "ARMY CORNERS"
LIKE
YOU MAKE HOSPITAL BEDS.
A SCREW EYE HOLDS A GOOD STAINLESS WIRE AND A TURNBUCKLE IS USED ON THE
OTHER
END TO TIGHTEN IT FOR CUTTING THE CLAY MOUNTED EITHER IN THE CENTER OR ONE
END OF THE BOARD DEPENDING ON THE SIZE YOU MAKE.
When the top has been covered ,on a protected surface, turn the table
upside
down and remove the plywood bottom and the solo cups and secure the
hardware
cloth mesh wire to the underside , if desired.
The use of the solo cups make it much lighter, uses less plaster, and
gives
the plaster a means of drying out much more quickly if a lot of clay is
wedged or recycled drying thru this ventilating underside.
THIS HAS WORKED FOR ME SINCE BUILDING THEM IN THE LATE 1960'S.
Margaret Arial
Lexington,SC

I just wanted to let you know that I use a 6ft work bench with a large smooth
slab of concrete on top. The concrete absorbs moisture and is very easy to
clean up. I can wedge, glaze, or do anything on this surface. Plus, you can
use the area for other uses. The potter that I apprenticed with always used
concrete in place of wood or canvas. I went to a patio garden center which
sells different sizes of stepping stones/ or patio blocks and ordered the exact
size I needed. I specified that the concrete be as smooth as possible. Mine
is 2 inches thick but it wouldn't have to be that thick. My husband built the
work bench but you can also buy them prebuilt (unasembled) at Lowes or Home
Depot.
Just another suggestion.
Good luck.

By the way ~~~I am new to this post. A couple of years ago I used to read
another pottery discussion group (until one day it was gone, or at least I
couldn't find it) and I learned so much! Looking forward to learning more from
this one.
Thanks everyone!
Kay

What I had done when I first started out was to fill an old drawer of a
discarded table with plaster. That became my wedging board and was used for
many, many years quite successfully. I also used it to recycle clay when I had
to.
Good luck.
Marlynn
Marlynn
A day in which I haven't learned something new is a day lost......

Before you try wedging at home, be sure that the place where you wedge
(ie table top, counter top, etc) is VERY sturdy. Most home furnishings
will not stand up to the stress of wedging.

As to the actual wedging surface, you can staple material (couldn't find
canvas so I used denim) to a board with staples on the bottom. Be sure
to put something under it to prevent the staples from injuring the
surface you place it on.

However, I prefer to wedge on plaster. You can make a tray from plywood
and 1" by 2" boards and fill that with plaster or you can make a full
wedging table, using the tray as the top. The table must be very sturdy.

When the school where I studied pottery (Cupertino, California, USA)
bought commercially made wedging tables, they collapsed after a few
weeks. Our teacher then made tables using 4 x 4's (that's 4 inches by 4
inches), 2 x 4's plywood, and plaster. That was about 15 years ago and
they are still standing today. Unfortunately, I don't have the plans.
Maybe somebody out there has a good set??

Jan C.

Jan C.

On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 21:06:49 +0000, Mpchet wrote:

What I had done when I first started out was to fill an old drawer of a
discarded table with plaster. That became my wedging board a...

Sounds like the concrete floor of my basement might make a cold but
functional and sturdy wedging surface!