Dry matt barium glaze (Ox ^6-10?)

Try going to www.digitalfire.com
They have an excellent substitution listing.

Personally, I would stay as far away from that glaze as I could. You don't
mention what cone you are firing to, but considering the toxicity of the two
items (barium and lithium)
perhaps you would be better off using a commercial glaze and firing to a
lower cone.

Hope that helps,

Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)
"no spam here, thanks" wrote in message
news
I have some purely decorative items I'd like to finish with a dry mate
barium glaze to get a bright blue I know they are capable of (but maybe
not in oxidation).

I can't seem to find a starting point in the clayart archives, and this
will be my first go at mixing my own glaze to achieve a desired result

I have found:

Nephelene Syenite 50.0
Barium Carbonate (Toxic!) 30.0
Litium Carbonate (Toxic!) 3.0
Ball Clay 8.0
Flint 9.0
Copper Carbonate 2.0

I'd have to find a substitute for the Neph Sy, as I don't have any, but
could anyone recommend this (or anything else) as a starting point and a
testing pathway to experiment with?

Many thanks

Lewis

"wayneinkeywest" wrote in message
.. .
Try going to www.digitalfire.com
They have an excellent substitution listing.

Personally, I would stay as far away from that glaze as I could. You
don't
mention what cone you are firing to, but considering the toxicity of the
two
items (barium and lithium)
perhaps you would be better off using a commercial glaze and firing to a
lower cone.

Hope that helps,

Wayne Seidl

Just because a glaze is a commercial glaze it does not mean that it is not
toxic. They are still made from the same materials. True if you buy it
made up (not in powder form) you mostly eliminate inhalation as a problem.
He did say that he wants this glaze for purely decorative work, so IMO thats
fine. It is only when people use unsafe glazes on functional ware that I
get cross.
Of course all glaze materials should be treated with respect, masks, wet
wipe up etc etc.

Hi Lewis,
I would tend to agree that it is better to stay away from it FOR THE TIME
BEING. This is not a good glaze to start playing with. WHY?- when first
starting out people generally don't have "safe working" habits developed.
Proper mask, gloves, working area..etc... we all tend to learn as we go, and
as we make mistakes. Well, this glaze is not a good one to learn with.
And, there are safe alternatives with just as bright colours.
I can give you some recipes for cone 6 oxidation. E mail me on:

cheers,
Andrea



"annemarie" wrote in message
...

"wayneinkeywest" wrote in message
.. .
Try going to www.digitalfire.com
They have an excellent substitution listing.

Personally, I would stay as far away from that glaze as I could. You
don't
mention what cone you are firing to, but considering the toxicity of the
two
items (barium and lithium)
perhaps you would be better off using a commercial glaze and firing to a
lower cone.

Hope that helps,

Wayne Seidl

Just because a glaze is a commercial glaze it does not mean that it is not
toxic. They are still made from the same materials. True if you buy it
made up (not in powder form) you mostly eliminate inhalation as a problem.
He did say that he wants this glaze for purely decorative work, so IMO
thats
fine. It is only when people use unsafe glazes on functional ware that I
get cross.
Of course all glaze materials should be treated with respect, masks, wet
wipe up etc etc.

Do you want cone 6 or cone 10. You didn't say.
I agree with the other poster that for a neophyte, you really should try to
avoid those toxic glazes.
Just because you think the piece is just decorative, doesn't mean someone down
the line won't decide to use it as a functional piece.
There is a bright blue cone 6 glaze in the Ian Currie book that is a safe
glaze. It looks a lot like the bright barium blue I think you are looking for.
It is an oxidation glaze.
You can get barium blues in oxidation and reduction.
If you want to see the glaze and get the recipe, and instructions, go to my web
site and check out my Group 2 of the cone 6 tiles. It's the third row down, 2nd
from the left.

Good luck!
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery

"ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
Do you want cone 6 or cone 10. You didn't say.
I agree with the other poster that for a neophyte, you really should try
to
avoid those toxic glazes.
Just because you think the piece is just decorative, doesn't mean someone
down
the line won't decide to use it as a functional piece.
There is a bright blue cone 6 glaze in the Ian Currie book that is a safe
glaze. It looks a lot like the bright barium blue I think you are looking
for.
It is an oxidation glaze.
You can get barium blues in oxidation and reduction.
If you want to see the glaze and get the recipe, and instructions, go to
my web
site and check out my Group 2 of the cone 6 tiles. It's the third row
down, 2nd
from the left.

Good luck!
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery

Very nice glaze, not quite the barium matt look that I have seen. I can
understand the desire.
I am so against matt barium glazes like this being used in functional
pieces, bowls etc, but there are some things that are truely decorative and
cannot be used funtionally.
I think also that many of us as potters react to something like barium, but
forget that almost all glaze materials are toxic especially if inhaled.
Personally I think just read up about all the safety precautions and follow
them!

Most of those look like sprayed on stains (with cobalt as the main
ingredient in some form I would guess). If it not functional ware do you
really need a glaze?

http://www.baileypottery.com/glazes/masonstains2.htm
http://www.greatclay.com/mason.htm#BLUES

--
***************************************
Listen to Air America Radio
http://www.airamericaradio.com
***************************************
"no spam here, thanks" wrote in message
...
On 01 Jun 2004 01:27:09 GMT, ojunkm (ShantiP1) wrote:

Do you want cone 6 or cone 10. You didn't say.
snip
Just because you think the piece is just decorative, doesn't mean someone
down
the line won't decide to use it as a functional piece.
Thanks for the tip and pointers. It's cone 6 - 10 oxidation (I put that
in the subject - I thought it would be better there - now I know
different )

The piece is purely decorative (I hesitate to use the word 'sculptural'
for my naive efforts).

Thge kind of barium blue I'm after is like the ones here
http://home.iprimus.com.au/vandvin/index.htm - seemingly based on
Strontium rather than Barium, so it might be off to the shops for me
(and to buy some Neph Sy as I'm fed up doing all the substitutions
required 'cos I don't have it!)

Thanks


Lewis

If you have a recipe that says cone 6-10 and you are firing toward the top end
of the that, you might trying subbing a soda spar like Kona F4 or NC 4 soda
spar for the Neph. Sy, if you don't want to bother doing the chemistry to match
it exactly.


Regards,
June Perry
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/

Hi there,
All of the coloured stuff on the mentioned web site are glazes, on
porcelain, fired to 1220 centigrade in electric kiln. Blue ones contain 1 -
2 % cobalt carb. Occasionally I spray slips the same way and that produces
REALLY dry, velvety finish. Because it is hard to clean it is not suitable
for functional ware, but it is neither toxic ( to the best of my knowledge)
or porous. Cobalt or black slip are really nice ( no manganese). If anybody
is interested, I can give more info on that.
Back to those glazes... The Vases (Deep blue series) are functional if you
want to use them. If the glazes are dry, doesn't mean the piece is
non-functional. I am currently working on a set of beakers with dry glazes,
I intend to put softer ( satin) glaze on the rim.
The glazes on epitomes ( blue, green & ochre) are satin and I use them on
mugs and bowls for the family ( I don't make any for sale at this stage) and
they are among favourites.
I don't see any need to use stains for blues and greens - stains tend to be
expensive compared to the oxides and carbonates.
Hey Lewis, Thanks for sharing my site, I am still kinda self-conscious about
it.
Kind regards,
Andrea

"dkat" wrote in message
et...
Most of those look like sprayed on stains (with cobalt as the main
ingredient in some form I would guess). If it not functional ware do you
really need a glaze?

http://www.baileypottery.com/glazes/masonstains2.htm
http://www.greatclay.com/mason.htm#BLUES

--
***************************************
Listen to Air America Radio
http://www.airamericaradio.com
***************************************
"no spam here, thanks" wrote in message
...
On 01 Jun 2004 01:27:09 GMT, ojunkm (ShantiP1) wrote:

Do you want cone 6 or cone 10. You didn't say.
snip
Just because you think the piece is just decorative, doesn't mean
someone
down
the line won't decide to use it as a functional piece.
Thanks for the tip and pointers. It's cone 6 - 10 oxidation (I put that
in the subject - I thought it would be better there - now I know
different )

The piece is purely decorative (I hesitate to use the word 'sculptural'
for my naive efforts).

Thge kind of barium blue I'm after is like the ones here
http://home.iprimus.com.au/vandvin/index.htm - seemingly based on
Strontium rather than Barium, so it might be off to the shops for me
(and to buy some Neph Sy as I'm fed up doing all the substitutions
required 'cos I don't have it!)

Thanks


Lewis

I don't mind, It's a compliment!
Andrea

"no spam here, thanks" wrote in message
...

Hey Lewis, Thanks for sharing my site, I am still kinda self-conscious
about
it.
Eeek! I hope you didn't mind!