Spiral-eyed needles - test results

As promised, here's my analysis:
I ordered the #8 sewing needle and the #26 Tapestry needle

The #8 sewing needle is a larger sewing needle than I like to use (I
prefer #10's), but still works ok for general sewing and some of the
larger (14 or 16 count) monocanvas pieces. I also tried it on 32
count evenweave project with a loosely-spread design (ie lots of open
room), but it's a little to thick in the haft, and the eye would catch
about 1/3 of the time. It never caught on normal material you'd use
for clothing - I tried it on both heavy and normal-weight materials.

The #26 tapestry worked great on 28 count hardanger, but was too big
for a tightly woven 32 count evenweave. I worked 4 solid rows in TW's
Mermaid with it and had absolutely no problem with it. Which says a
lot considering the amount of confetti stitching she likes. It works
OK on the same 32-count design I tested the #8 needle with.

Both needles were very easy to thread, and the only time the eye
caught is when I used the needle on a piece of needlework fabric too
tight for that size needle anyway. I liked the #26 tapestry enough to
order another one.

I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle
with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran

Fran wrote:
As promised, here's my analysis:
I ordered the #8 sewing needle and the #26 Tapestry needle

The #8 sewing needle is a larger sewing needle than I like to use (I
prefer #10's), but still works ok for general sewing and some of the
larger (14 or 16 count) monocanvas pieces. I also tried it on 32
count evenweave project with a loosely-spread design (ie lots of open
room), but it's a little to thick in the haft, and the eye would catch
about 1/3 of the time. It never caught on normal material you'd use
for clothing - I tried it on both heavy and normal-weight materials.

The #26 tapestry worked great on 28 count hardanger, but was too big
for a tightly woven 32 count evenweave. I worked 4 solid rows in TW's
Mermaid with it and had absolutely no problem with it. Which says a
lot considering the amount of confetti stitching she likes. It works
OK on the same 32-count design I tested the #8 needle with.

Both needles were very easy to thread, and the only time the eye
caught is when I used the needle on a piece of needlework fabric too
tight for that size needle anyway. I liked the #26 tapestry enough to
order another one.

I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle
with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran

I'm confused. Sewing needles by their nature/design have sharp points.
Also: Why would you use a sewing needle on canvas?
Point taken: Glad it worked for general sewing on typical cloth.

Dianne

Thank you for sharing your experiences with those new needles! Based
on what you have said, I will save my money and stick with needles I
already own and enjoy.

On 8/28/09 10:44 PM, in article , "Dianne
Lewandowski" wrote:

Fran wrote:
As promised, here's my analysis:
I ordered the #8 sewing needle and the #26 Tapestry needle

The #8 sewing needle is a larger sewing needle than I like to use (I
prefer #10's), but still works ok for general sewing and some of the
larger (14 or 16 count) monocanvas pieces. I also tried it on 32
count evenweave project with a loosely-spread design (ie lots of open
room), but it's a little to thick in the haft, and the eye would catch
about 1/3 of the time. It never caught on normal material you'd use
for clothing - I tried it on both heavy and normal-weight materials.

The #26 tapestry worked great on 28 count hardanger, but was too big
for a tightly woven 32 count evenweave. I worked 4 solid rows in TW's
Mermaid with it and had absolutely no problem with it. Which says a
lot considering the amount of confetti stitching she likes. It works
OK on the same 32-count design I tested the #8 needle with.

Both needles were very easy to thread, and the only time the eye
caught is when I used the needle on a piece of needlework fabric too
tight for that size needle anyway. I liked the #26 tapestry enough to
order another one.

I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle
with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran

I'm confused. Sewing needles by their nature/design have sharp points.
Also: Why would you use a sewing needle on canvas?
Point taken: Glad it worked for general sewing on typical cloth.

Dianne
I suspect Fran means sharper than what was supplied. I've found varying
degrees of sharp on my sharps from different sources, as I'm sure you have
too.


C

Exactly. I like my sharps and sewing needles to be very very sharp. I
will use a sewing needle for some thread types (like some silks) when
embroidering becuase of the sharper points, and so decided to try it
out on the cross-stitch peices just to see how it would work. I'm not
much of a purist - I tend to go for whatever gets the my job done.


On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 08:28:44 -0400, Cheryl Isaak
wrote:

On 8/28/09 10:44 PM, in article , "Dianne
Lewandowski" wrote:

\

I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle
with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran

I'm confused. Sewing needles by their nature/design have sharp points.
Also: Why would you use a sewing needle on canvas?
Point taken: Glad it worked for general sewing on typical cloth.

Dianne
I suspect Fran means sharper than what was supplied. I've found varying
degrees of sharp on my sharps from different sources, as I'm sure you have
too.


C

My question didn't have anything to do with being or not being a purist.
I just wondered why you would use a sharp (size 8s are not that large)
for fabric normally used for counted work. And I was confused by your
comments. No other point was being made. :~) I, too, like No. 10
sharps or crewel. I haven't noticed a difference in sharpness between
brands. About the only thing I've noticed between brands is the ease
with which it threads, and the ease with which it glides through fabric.
I miss the "old" Milwards (did I remember that right?). Now *those*
were needles.

Dianne

Fran wrote:
Exactly. I like my sharps and sewing needles to be very very sharp. I
will use a sewing needle for some thread types (like some silks) when
embroidering becuase of the sharper points, and so decided to try it
out on the cross-stitch peices just to see how it would work. I'm not
much of a purist - I tend to go for whatever gets the my job done.


On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 08:28:44 -0400, Cheryl Isaak
wrote:

On 8/28/09 10:44 PM, in article , "Dianne
Lewandowski" wrote:

\
I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle
with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran
I'm confused. Sewing needles by their nature/design have sharp points.
Also: Why would you use a sewing needle on canvas?
Point taken: Glad it worked for general sewing on typical cloth.

Dianne
I suspect Fran means sharper than what was supplied. I've found varying
degrees of sharp on my sharps from different sources, as I'm sure you have
too.


C

Dianne,
Man you have had better luck than I have. I've bought sharps at all manner
of places (grocery store, dollar store, Woolworths, Kmart, WalMart, fabric
store) and unless the package was a "real brand" (Singer, Dritz....),
sharpness varied wildly.

Cheryl


On 8/29/09 5:05 PM, in article , "Dianne
Lewandowski" wrote:

My question didn't have anything to do with being or not being a purist.
I just wondered why you would use a sharp (size 8s are not that large)
for fabric normally used for counted work. And I was confused by your
comments. No other point was being made. :~) I, too, like No. 10
sharps or crewel. I haven't noticed a difference in sharpness between
brands. About the only thing I've noticed between brands is the ease
with which it threads, and the ease with which it glides through fabric.
I miss the "old" Milwards (did I remember that right?). Now *those*
were needles.

Dianne

Fran wrote:
Exactly. I like my sharps and sewing needles to be very very sharp. I
will use a sewing needle for some thread types (like some silks) when
embroidering becuase of the sharper points, and so decided to try it
out on the cross-stitch peices just to see how it would work. I'm not
much of a purist - I tend to go for whatever gets the my job done.


On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 08:28:44 -0400, Cheryl Isaak
wrote:

On 8/28/09 10:44 PM, in article , "Dianne
Lewandowski" wrote:

\
I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle
with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran
I'm confused. Sewing needles by their nature/design have sharp points.
Also: Why would you use a sewing needle on canvas?
Point taken: Glad it worked for general sewing on typical cloth.

Dianne
I suspect Fran means sharper than what was supplied. I've found varying
degrees of sharp on my sharps from different sources, as I'm sure you have
too.


C

Cheryl Isaak wrote:
Dianne,
Man you have had better luck than I have. I've bought sharps at all manner
of places (grocery store, dollar store, Woolworths, Kmart, WalMart, fabric
store) and unless the package was a "real brand" (Singer, Dritz....),
sharpness varied wildly.

I've not tried much besides known brands. :~) Didn't realize that the
points varied.
Dianne

On 8/30/09 9:38 AM, in article , "Dianne
Lewandowski" wrote:

Cheryl Isaak wrote:
Dianne,
Man you have had better luck than I have. I've bought sharps at all manner
of places (grocery store, dollar store, Woolworths, Kmart, WalMart, fabric
store) and unless the package was a "real brand" (Singer, Dritz....),
sharpness varied wildly.

I've not tried much besides known brands. :~) Didn't realize that the
points varied.
Dianne


When you're buying for school or scout projects, sometimes those dollar
bargains are tempting.

Won't bother with bargains when stitching to mend or for pleasure.

C

Apparently, the space needed for the needle eye is too big to allow
for the smaller sizes of needles. I wondered, but thought it wouldn't
hurt to ask. Oh, well, such is life.

I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle
with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran