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Questions on Ingredients



 
 
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  #21  
Old July 19th 04, 03:21 PM
D Kat
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Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?

"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 06:21:07 GMT, "dkat" wrote:

Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients.

Now
I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other?

Is
the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)?

whiting Snocal 40
whiting Vicron 2511

Wollastonite W10 200M
Wollastonite W20 352M

Rutile Light Ceramic
Rutile Dark Milled
Rutile Grandular

Neph Syn 270M Minex3
Neph Syn 400M Minex4

Potash Custer
Potash G-200

Bentonite Western 200M
Bentonite Western 325M
Bentonite B
Betonite 149

*Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M)


* is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book?


First, flint is indeed the form of silica most folks use.
Higher mesh numbers (xxxM) indicate finer powders;
they have been passed through a mesh with that
many threads or wires per inch. Finer powders make
glazes that will melt together faster, but I don't really
have any experience comparing differences betweeen
(say) 325M and 400M... I'd guess this would make no
difference to most uses. I tend to mentally divide things
into "coarse" and "fine" at around 100M, and wouldn't
hesitate to use anything over 200M in a glaze. Prices
may differ, so I'd go with what gets the job done most
economically.

And you might want to get some Gillespie Borate (or
some other GB substitute) for those times when you
need to get a low-temperature melt and low expansion.
There are lots of recipes that call for this (or an "equivalent"
frit), so I wouldn't rule it out just yet.

Just my $0.02 worth...



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com



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  #22  
Old July 19th 04, 04:49 PM
wayneinkeywest
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"D Kat" wrote in message
...
Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was

told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?


If you are going to buy only one sieve, buy that 80 mesh. If you are going
to buy two, get an 80 and a 120. For coarser than 80, you can always use a
piece of (metal) window screening, or a screen material kitchen strainer.
I've worked that way for years.

Funny, I've never rubbed off my fingerprints though :)

Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)


  #23  
Old July 20th 04, 01:25 PM
Bob Masta
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On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:49:17 -0400, "wayneinkeywest"
wrote:


"D Kat" wrote in message
...
Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was

told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?


If you are going to buy only one sieve, buy that 80 mesh. If you are going
to buy two, get an 80 and a 120. For coarser than 80, you can always use a
piece of (metal) window screening, or a screen material kitchen strainer.
I've worked that way for years.

Funny, I've never rubbed off my fingerprints though :)


If you are looking for an inexpensive source for sieve
material to make your own, the best place I've found
is McMaster-Carr. A 1ft square of most any mesh size
is in the 7-8 dollar range. I built a simple square fram
from 2x2 lumber and stapled the sieve screen to the
face of it, then gave the frame multiple coats of semi-gloss
interior latex to seal both the wood and the seam where
the screen meets the wood. Works great!

McMaster-Carr is at www.mcmaster.com. For an
80 mesh sieve I got part number 85385T869 "Type 304
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Cloth, 80 x 80 mesh, 0.0055 inch
wire diameter, 12" x 12" sheet". It was $7.24 one year ago.
No minimum order, no "handling" charge. I also got 4 other
sizes and the total shipping was only $4.25.

Hope this helps!




Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
  #24  
Old July 20th 04, 07:33 PM
Jake Loddington
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Posts: n/a
Default

Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was
told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?

If you are looking for an inexpensive source for sieve
material to make your own, the best place I've found
is McMaster-Carr. A 1ft square of most any mesh size
is in the 7-8 dollar range. I built a simple square fram
from 2x2 lumber and stapled the sieve screen to the
face of it, then gave the frame multiple coats of semi-gloss
interior latex to seal both the wood and the seam where
the screen meets the wood. Works great!

It might be easier to get a piece of PVC pipe about 200 mm diameter, and
cut off about an 80 mm length. (I scrounged a bit of yellow PVC: is that
for gas?) Lay the mesh on it, and run a biggish soldering iron (25 watts
is plenty) round the edge, to weld the mesh into the PVC. Then cut round
the outer edge, being careful not to leave any strands of the mesh
sticking out.

The big advantage of a circular frame is that there are no corners to
clean out after use.

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancashire, England


  #25  
Old July 20th 04, 11:39 PM
Steve Mills
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Posts: n/a
Default

We make our own plastic framed sieves using slices of reclaimed plastic
ducting, you can get it up to 8 inches in diameter. A better trick than
a soldering iron it to put a hot-plate or frying pan on medium to low
heat, lay a piece of cooking foil on it, then the mesh, then press the
plastic pipe onto that until a small bead of softened plastic appears
around the pipe/mesh join. Remove from the heat and place on a cold
surface, and then peal off the foil. Finally clean off the edge on a
sander. It takes longer to write about it than to do it!

Steve
Bath
UK


In article , Jake Loddington
writes
Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was
told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?

If you are looking for an inexpensive source for sieve
material to make your own, the best place I've found
is McMaster-Carr. A 1ft square of most any mesh size
is in the 7-8 dollar range. I built a simple square fram
from 2x2 lumber and stapled the sieve screen to the
face of it, then gave the frame multiple coats of semi-gloss
interior latex to seal both the wood and the seam where
the screen meets the wood. Works great!

It might be easier to get a piece of PVC pipe about 200 mm diameter, and
cut off about an 80 mm length. (I scrounged a bit of yellow PVC: is that
for gas?) Lay the mesh on it, and run a biggish soldering iron (25 watts
is plenty) round the edge, to weld the mesh into the PVC. Then cut round
the outer edge, being careful not to leave any strands of the mesh
sticking out.

The big advantage of a circular frame is that there are no corners to
clean out after use.


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
  #26  
Old July 20th 04, 11:43 PM
ShantiP1
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Another way is to put a piece of silver foil in the bottom of an electric
frying pan, or a regular frying pan and put the screening down on the the
silver foil and place the pvc pipe, or a piece of cut off, 5 gallon bucket, on
top and weight down or press down until the plastic melts the sieve mesh to
itself.

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
  #27  
Old July 21st 04, 12:40 AM
Mud Dawg
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Posts: n/a
Default

I don't know where I read this but...
Cut off the top 4-5 inches of a 5 gal bucket. Then, insert the bottom
potion of the bucket through the ring from top to bottom so the two pieces
wedge together. Trim so both rings are the same length. Remove the inner
ring and place a piece of screen on the top of the outer ring. Insert the
inner ring so it secures the screen. If you can follow what I just wrote,
more power to you! It is not hard to do, just hard to follow. If all else
fails, use the previous suggestions utilizing the hot plate. Steve in
Tampa.


Place the screen on the top of this ring.
"ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
Another way is to put a piece of silver foil in the bottom of an electric
frying pan, or a regular frying pan and put the screening down on the the
silver foil and place the pvc pipe, or a piece of cut off, 5 gallon

bucket, on
top and weight down or press down until the plastic melts the sieve mesh

to
itself.

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/



  #28  
Old July 21st 04, 03:48 AM
dkat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Such a wealth of info I don't know where to start. Thank you again. Donna

"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:49:17 -0400, "wayneinkeywest"
wrote:


"D Kat" wrote in message
...
Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was

told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?


If you are going to buy only one sieve, buy that 80 mesh. If you are

going
to buy two, get an 80 and a 120. For coarser than 80, you can always use

a
piece of (metal) window screening, or a screen material kitchen strainer.
I've worked that way for years.

Funny, I've never rubbed off my fingerprints though :)


If you are looking for an inexpensive source for sieve
material to make your own, the best place I've found
is McMaster-Carr. A 1ft square of most any mesh size
is in the 7-8 dollar range. I built a simple square fram
from 2x2 lumber and stapled the sieve screen to the
face of it, then gave the frame multiple coats of semi-gloss
interior latex to seal both the wood and the seam where
the screen meets the wood. Works great!

McMaster-Carr is at www.mcmaster.com. For an
80 mesh sieve I got part number 85385T869 "Type 304
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Cloth, 80 x 80 mesh, 0.0055 inch
wire diameter, 12" x 12" sheet". It was $7.24 one year ago.
No minimum order, no "handling" charge. I also got 4 other
sizes and the total shipping was only $4.25.

Hope this helps!




Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com



 




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