^10 reduction

Hello,
The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be
firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working
in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes.
Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze
formulas and firing?

Thank You
-nan-

Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey,
published by A & C Black in the UK (ISBN:0-7136-6214-X),
University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA (ISBN:0-8122-1890-6)

Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry
books.
I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote *Glazes cone
6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes*
by Roy & Hesselberth).

Steve
Bath
UK


In article , Elderberry Blossom
writes
Hello,
The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be
firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working
in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes.
Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze
formulas and firing?

Thank You
-nan-

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

Stephen Mills wrote:
Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey,
published by A & C Black in the UK (ISBN:0-7136-6214-X),
University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA (ISBN:0-8122-1890-6)

Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry
books.
I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote *Glazes cone
6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes*
by Roy & Hesselberth).

Steve
Bath
UK


In article , Elderberry Blossom
writes
Hello,
The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be
firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working
in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes.
Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze
formulas and firing?

Thank You
-nan-

I'd back Steve on that one and add "Glazes and Glazing Techniques" by
Greg Daly to the list, again readable and above all, FUN....
Hugs
Eddie

I agree; the books straightforward with stunning illustrations. I was unable
to put it down when it first dropped through the letter box.
Steve.
"Eddie Daughton" wrote in message
...
Stephen Mills wrote:
Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey, published by A & C Black in the UK
(ISBN:0-7136-6214-X), University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA
(ISBN:0-8122-1890-6)

Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry
books. I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote
*Glazes cone
6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes*
by Roy & Hesselberth).

Steve
Bath
UK


In article , Elderberry Blossom
writes
Hello,
The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be
firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working
in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes.
Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze
formulas and firing?

Thank You
-nan-

I'd back Steve on that one and add "Glazes and Glazing Techniques" by Greg
Daly to the list, again readable and above all, FUN....
Hugs
Eddie

Stephen Mills wrote:
Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey,
published by A & C Black in the UK (ISBN:0-7136-6214-X),
University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA (ISBN:0-8122-1890-6)

Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry
books.
I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote *Glazes cone
6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes*
by Roy & Hesselberth).

Steve
Bath
UK


Thanks Steve, I've got the book on hold at the Public Library.
-nan-

I'd back Steve on that one and add "Glazes and Glazing Techniques" by
Greg Daly to the list, again readable and above all, FUN....
Hugs
Eddie

Thanks Eddie! I got it on hold at the library.

-nan-

Stephen Powell wrote:
I agree; the books straightforward with stunning illustrations. I was unable
to put it down when it first dropped through the letter box.
Steve.


Thanks Steve,
I already read Mastering Cone 6 Glazes. A great book.

-nan-

Nan before you fire your Olympic you may want to read the clayart
archives on the Olympics. They are extremely hard to fire evenly from
top to bottom. I know I have one.

There are some good recommendations, but I have not tried them yet.
Hope too, early this spring after it warms up some and I can make a
load for it.

Randy wrote:
Nan before you fire your Olympic you may want to read the clayart
archives on the Olympics. They are extremely hard to fire evenly from
top to bottom. I know I have one.

There are some good recommendations, but I have not tried them yet.
Hope too, early this spring after it warms up some and I can make a
load for it.

Thanks Randy,
I've heard that about the Torchbearer. I looked into buying on for
myself a few years ago. I decided to stick with electric in my home
studio. (I bought an L&L).
The studio I'm going to work for had already made the decision (not my
choice) to buy the Torchbearer and I've been hired to teach high fire,
mix the glazes and fire the kiln.
One big advantage I think the torchbearer will have is the small size, I
won't have to wait so long to get a full load together and see results.
Hopefully I'll get the studio going full-swing and we'll outgrow the
torchbearer and need a bigger kiln.

-nan-

In article , Elderberry
Blossom writes
Randy wrote:
Nan before you fire your Olympic you may want to read the clayart
archives on the Olympics. They are extremely hard to fire evenly from
top to bottom. I know I have one.

There are some good recommendations, but I have not tried them yet.
Hope too, early this spring after it warms up some and I can make a
load for it.

Thanks Randy,
I've heard that about the Torchbearer. I looked into buying on for
myself a few years ago. I decided to stick with electric in my home
studio. (I bought an L&L).
The studio I'm going to work for had already made the decision (not my
choice) to buy the Torchbearer and I've been hired to teach high fire,
mix the glazes and fire the kiln.
One big advantage I think the torchbearer will have is the small size, I
won't have to wait so long to get a full load together and see results.
Hopefully I'll get the studio going full-swing and we'll outgrow the
torchbearer and need a bigger kiln.

-nan-
I had a 7 cu ft version some years ago, and found that the baffle plate
that Olympic recommend you put under the lid vent is an absolutely
essential piece if you're going to get reasonably good firings. I also
found packing the lower half of the kiln more densely than the upper
half helped to reduce the difference between the two halves.

A friend of mine had a 10 cu ft version which was easier to fire than
the 7 cube!

Steve
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK