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#21
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You can also rent videos from SNAG.
http://www.snagmetalsmith.org/ It used to be that you did not have to be a member to rent them not so sure if it is still the same or not. SES, After cruising around SNAG (GREAT site, thanks for the pointer) for quite a while, I could not seem to find anything about video rental. I would have thought it to be in the "education" page, but no luck. Would you happen to know the direct URL? If not, I will just email them. Thanks! Raane |
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#22
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"Abrasha" wrote in message ... Raane wrote: Have any of you had scary mishaps? Many years ago, when I was doing my apprenticeship with Guenther Krauss in Pforzheim, Germany after completing my schooling I screwed up royally. snip Today, I have shallow wide mouth containers for denatured alcohol (for quenching) and for boric acid/denatured alcohol, on my bench. I still ignite the alcohol from time to time, because I am in a hurry and/or I do not see the flame. I then just put the lid on the container and the flame burns itself out in a second or so. Hey Abrasha, I was intrigued to see your reference to QUENCHING in denatured alcohol. I'm curious as to why and for which metal(s) you do this, as it's a practice I've not yet heard of. Also, are you using "pure" denatured? Or mixed with something? I almost always quench in water or air cool and only on rare occasions quench in pickle (usually for a specific purpose and with good ventilation). Thanks! KG |
#23
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Their website has been in limbo for a LONG time.
Email or call and request the list of videos. They used to print it out and mail it to the members but now it's just printed in the back of their member's directory. They also have slide sets of member artists. SES -- http://www.metalcyberspace.com Listen to the Universe and Dance to the Rhythm of it-*SES* |
#24
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KG wrote:
Hey Abrasha, I was intrigued to see your reference to QUENCHING in denatured alcohol. I'm curious as to why and for which metal(s) you do this, as it's a practice I've not yet heard of. Also, are you using "pure" denatured? Or mixed with something? Red and rose golds always have to be quenched in denatured alcohol. They are too brittle to be quenched in water. Repeated quenching of red gold in water will make is so brittle is becomes very difficult to work with. White golds should always be air cooled. I was introduced to quenching in pure denatured alcohol by Professor Klaus Ullrich in Pforzheim. He had developed a red gold alloy, that had a very large copper content and very little silver. After the pieces were finished we would always "fire guild" these by annealing the pieces and quenching in concentrated hydrochloric acid. In a poorly ventilated space, I might add. My lungs were still young in those days. Anyway, we always quenched in denatured alcohol to keep the alloy workable and somewhat malleable. An added advantage, and this is the reason I continue to quench my yellow gold alloys in denatured alcohol today, is that the surface of the piece will not develop a fire scale, but will turn red. The piece never needs to be pickled after annealing, not even after soldering were it not to remove the flux residues. You can just continue to work without pickling. One thing to remember, is that gold quenches quite differently in alcohol than in water. You stick a hot piece in water, and it is cold immediately. When you stick it in alcohol, it cools gently and slowly. A layer of alcohol gas forms around the piece as it is cooling, and this bubble will stay there, until enough heat has been dissipated from the piece for the gas bubble to burst. It is important to remember to NOT drop the piece in the alcohol, but hold it in your tweezers and move it around inside the alcohol container, until the quenching is complete. If you drop it in, there is a very good chance, that you will crack the bottom of the container, if it is glass or ceramic. Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
#25
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"Abrasha" wrote in message ... KG wrote: Hey Abrasha, I was intrigued to see your reference to QUENCHING in denatured alcohol. I'm curious as to why and for which metal(s) you do this, as it's a practice I've not yet heard of. Also, are you using "pure" denatured? Or mixed with something? Red and rose golds always have to be quenched in denatured alcohol. They are too brittle to be quenched in water. Repeated quenching of red gold in water will make is so brittle is becomes very difficult to work with. White golds should always be air cooled. SNIP Abrasha, MANY thanks! I've not worked at all with rose or red golds, so it's great to know this for the future. Also appreciate the tip about the different cooling technique, as I would have definitely dropped it into the container and assumed it would cool as quickly as water. Given the evaporative cooling properties of alcohols, I might even have assumed it would cool more quickly -- although having read your explanation, I realize the fallacy of my premise :-). Always good to learn something new! KG |
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