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Machine Quilting for a Dummy?



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 5th 05, 08:48 PM
~KK in BC~
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Machine Quilting for a Dummy?

I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No trees were killed in the sending
of this message. However, a large
number of electrons were terribly
inconvenienced......
http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz



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  #2  
Old August 5th 05, 09:10 PM
Patti
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck.
I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I
probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so
don't have so many of the problems!
..
In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~
writes
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


--
Best Regards
pat on the hill
  #3  
Old August 6th 05, 02:12 AM
Marcella Peek
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89,
"~KK in BC~" wrote:

I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


Here's how I do it.

I decide if I'm going to hand or machine quilt. Then I decide how I'm
going to baste - usually it's a choice between thread basting or fusible
batt basting. I'm not a fan of pins as I find them heavy and a pain to
either pull out or work around when I am in a quilting groove. Since I
am anal about squaring things up the spray doesn't work to well with my
method but I use it occasionally for small things.

Tools - a carpenters square from the hardware store; a big flat space to
lay things out (I can do a table but I prefer a floor where things stay
put); big pins (I like those big quilting pins with the yellow bead at
the end); batting; backing sewn to size, selvedges removed and pressed
well; nicely pressed quilt top

Lay out the backing wrong side up and smooth it out flat. Spread out
the batting and smooth it out. Add the top, right side up, and smooth
everything out nicely.

Place the carpenters square (a big L shaped metal ruler) atop the center
block of the quilt. Gently using your fingers adjust the top so that
the right angle of the block exactly lines up with the right angle of
the square. Be sure you only move the top of the quilt and the batt and
backing remain in place to avoid wrinkles on the back. Using the big
pins, pin along the newly squared seams. Slide the ruler to the next
seam and line it up. Work across the quilt in both directions until
every seam is pinned and perfectly straight and square. Gently lift
each corner of the quilt and peek at the back to make sure it has
remained smooth and flat. Now I either thread baste or press with an
iron to fuse the batt to the top and back of the quilt. Then I thread
baste around the edges of the quilt folding the backing up over the
loose batting to keep it contained and give me a nice neat edge that
won't catch on my machine.

For quilting, I prefer the Paula Reid "puddling" method of machine
quilting. Keep the quilt loose (rather than rolled or folded and
clipped) under your machine. Using the walking foot I do some
stabilizing quilting in the ditch around the blocks, borders and outside
edge of the quilt. Now I can quilt my patterns either using the walking
foot (for straight line or gently curving designs) or the darning foot
for free motion quilting.

I'm a pretty traditional quilter so my quilts are usually made up of
rows of blocks surrounded by borders. I will typically quilt the center
of the quilt first. I will start the pattern at the edge of the border
with the first stitch in the seam line. I will take a few stitches and
then pull the bobbin thread to the top so I can hang on to them both and
not sew over them. When I have to stop I also leave a long tail and
pull the bobbin thread to the top.

After I have quilted the center I knot the threads together (needle and
bobbin thread) thread them onto a big eyed embroidery needle and weave
them into the quilt. I put the needle exactly into the hole the top
thread is coming out of and slide the needle into the batt between the
quilt layers. After sliding through the quilt layers a couple of inches
I pull the needle out the top of the quilt, make sure the knot has
popped into the quilt layers and trim the threads even with the top of
the quilt.

I happen to really like Sue Nickels Machine Quilting book (you can see
it at Amazon.com) I also took a class from Paula Reid and she had a lot
of good tips. She has some tips on her website
http://www.battsintheattic.com/PrimaryPages/tips.html
and I saw in the new Quilter's Newsletter Magazine that she has a DVD
coming out soon.

hope some of this helps
marcella
  #4  
Old August 6th 05, 02:23 AM
Cheryl
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do - feathering,
close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you plan
to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot.
And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many
quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make really
large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a.
longarm) machine.

I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the
background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need not
be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to
quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all
daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from
there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so you
are not new to this.

The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would recommend -
Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN
0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to marking
and sewing, and is very well illustrated.

Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0.

However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up
many in the past:

!. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just pin.
It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt very
stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a first
quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting . It
takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you don't
know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on a
long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on the
back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the floor.
Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file clips
(check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all directions
so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline
first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going to
baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier to
baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough to
just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of a
student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!). And
place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the way
of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too often.
TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake and
coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker that
way - one on each side of the table is all you need.
TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway plastic
or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big hunky
male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe
slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion feet
and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height. The
raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting, and
you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My
students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion
feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when you
don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you.

2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't rush
it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage" through
the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear view
of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the rolls,
but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work and
the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through the
quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out quickly
and you won't have the clips banging around as you work.

3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem obvious
but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using up
old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you really
want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem
when piecing than when quilting.

4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise,
practise, practise.

5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the seams
(say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the vertical
lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than trying to
turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for
horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and end
you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any
longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the
quilt.

6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and
decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a
pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a
good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies), leave
all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have to
love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew
them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end to
prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you draw
your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all
visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the foot
and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and handturning
one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go back
and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in.

7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise, practise,
practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads and
decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics before
you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension
adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!!

8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take the
weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is on
a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table
behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those
quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left can
avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you
manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L shape
and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet, have
the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most
manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but they
make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the needle
at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll over
your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging.

9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get
some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves
that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if the
gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the table
and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also help
your quilt slide more easily.

I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would encourage
you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own
techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc. You
have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and pick
out the bits you want to adopt.

And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something
different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you
might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on.
--
Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^

No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced......

"Patti" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck.
I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I
probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so
don't have so many of the problems!
.
In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~
writes
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure

out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to

develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich

to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do

you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has

a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


--
Best Regards
pat on the hill



  #5  
Old August 6th 05, 02:54 AM
~KK in BC~
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

well thanks for the vote of confidence saying I'll be fine....... I may beg
to differ soon but I am willing to try anyways! One small step for KK one
huge headache for the family? LOL

~KK in BC~


--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No trees were killed in the sending
of this message. However, a large
number of electrons were terribly
inconvenienced......
http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz


"Patti" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck.
I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I probably
do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so don't have
so many of the problems!
.
In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~
writes
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure
out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to
develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich
to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


--
Best Regards
pat on the hill



  #6  
Old August 6th 05, 02:56 AM
~KK in BC~
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

WOW and WOW! I printed this off for future reference! Thank you so much for
your time and experience here, it will be much appreciated when I do get
this sucker into the machine I am sure.

It is a size just bigger than a lap quilt made of not so quality kind of
fabrics for my first attempt at this MQ thing. It will probably go into my
camper so it isn't one that I am making as an heirloom that's for sure. It
is my beginner practice quilt.

~KK in BC~

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No trees were killed in the sending
of this message. However, a large
number of electrons were terribly
inconvenienced......
http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz


"Cheryl" wrote in message
...
You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do - feathering,
close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you
plan
to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot.
And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many
quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make
really
large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a.
longarm) machine.

I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the
background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need
not
be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to
quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all
daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from
there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so
you
are not new to this.

The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would recommend -
Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN
0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to
marking
and sewing, and is very well illustrated.

Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0.

However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up
many in the past:

!. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just
pin.
It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt
very
stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a first
quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting . It
takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you
don't
know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on a
long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on the
back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the
floor.
Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file
clips
(check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all
directions
so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline
first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going to
baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier to
baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough to
just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of a
student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!).
And
place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the
way
of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too often.
TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake and
coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker
that
way - one on each side of the table is all you need.
TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway plastic
or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big hunky
male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe
slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion
feet
and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height. The
raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting, and
you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My
students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion
feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when you
don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you.

2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't rush
it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage" through
the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear
view
of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the rolls,
but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work and
the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through
the
quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out quickly
and you won't have the clips banging around as you work.

3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem
obvious
but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using up
old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you
really
want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem
when piecing than when quilting.

4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise,
practise, practise.

5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the seams
(say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the vertical
lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than trying
to
turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for
horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and
end
you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any
longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the
quilt.

6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and
decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a
pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a
good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies), leave
all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have
to
love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew
them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end to
prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you
draw
your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all
visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the
foot
and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and handturning
one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go back
and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in.

7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise,
practise,
practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads and
decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics
before
you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension
adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!!

8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take the
weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is
on
a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table
behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those
quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left can
avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you
manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L shape
and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet, have
the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most
manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but
they
make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the
needle
at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll over
your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging.

9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get
some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves
that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if the
gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the
table
and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also help
your quilt slide more easily.

I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would
encourage
you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own
techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc. You
have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and pick
out the bits you want to adopt.

And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something
different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you
might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on.
--
Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^

No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced......

"Patti" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck.
I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I
probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so
don't have so many of the problems!
.
In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~
writes
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure

out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to

develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich

to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do

you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has

a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


--
Best Regards
pat on the hill





  #7  
Old August 6th 05, 02:58 AM
~KK in BC~
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thank you so much! Again printed and saved for later absorption as well.
I am so thankful for this group. It gives me a bit more confidence and a lot
more ideas and education!!
Since I live where I do, the closest long arm quilter is way down south, a
long way from me so I decided its now or never to learn to make a passable
quilted quilt.

~KK in BC~


--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No trees were killed in the sending
of this message. However, a large
number of electrons were terribly
inconvenienced......
http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz


"Marcella Peek" wrote in message
...
In article 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89,
"~KK in BC~" wrote:

I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure
out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to
develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich
to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do
you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has
a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


Here's how I do it.

I decide if I'm going to hand or machine quilt. Then I decide how I'm
going to baste - usually it's a choice between thread basting or fusible
batt basting. I'm not a fan of pins as I find them heavy and a pain to
either pull out or work around when I am in a quilting groove. Since I
am anal about squaring things up the spray doesn't work to well with my
method but I use it occasionally for small things.

Tools - a carpenters square from the hardware store; a big flat space to
lay things out (I can do a table but I prefer a floor where things stay
put); big pins (I like those big quilting pins with the yellow bead at
the end); batting; backing sewn to size, selvedges removed and pressed
well; nicely pressed quilt top

Lay out the backing wrong side up and smooth it out flat. Spread out
the batting and smooth it out. Add the top, right side up, and smooth
everything out nicely.

Place the carpenters square (a big L shaped metal ruler) atop the center
block of the quilt. Gently using your fingers adjust the top so that
the right angle of the block exactly lines up with the right angle of
the square. Be sure you only move the top of the quilt and the batt and
backing remain in place to avoid wrinkles on the back. Using the big
pins, pin along the newly squared seams. Slide the ruler to the next
seam and line it up. Work across the quilt in both directions until
every seam is pinned and perfectly straight and square. Gently lift
each corner of the quilt and peek at the back to make sure it has
remained smooth and flat. Now I either thread baste or press with an
iron to fuse the batt to the top and back of the quilt. Then I thread
baste around the edges of the quilt folding the backing up over the
loose batting to keep it contained and give me a nice neat edge that
won't catch on my machine.

For quilting, I prefer the Paula Reid "puddling" method of machine
quilting. Keep the quilt loose (rather than rolled or folded and
clipped) under your machine. Using the walking foot I do some
stabilizing quilting in the ditch around the blocks, borders and outside
edge of the quilt. Now I can quilt my patterns either using the walking
foot (for straight line or gently curving designs) or the darning foot
for free motion quilting.

I'm a pretty traditional quilter so my quilts are usually made up of
rows of blocks surrounded by borders. I will typically quilt the center
of the quilt first. I will start the pattern at the edge of the border
with the first stitch in the seam line. I will take a few stitches and
then pull the bobbin thread to the top so I can hang on to them both and
not sew over them. When I have to stop I also leave a long tail and
pull the bobbin thread to the top.

After I have quilted the center I knot the threads together (needle and
bobbin thread) thread them onto a big eyed embroidery needle and weave
them into the quilt. I put the needle exactly into the hole the top
thread is coming out of and slide the needle into the batt between the
quilt layers. After sliding through the quilt layers a couple of inches
I pull the needle out the top of the quilt, make sure the knot has
popped into the quilt layers and trim the threads even with the top of
the quilt.

I happen to really like Sue Nickels Machine Quilting book (you can see
it at Amazon.com) I also took a class from Paula Reid and she had a lot
of good tips. She has some tips on her website
http://www.battsintheattic.com/PrimaryPages/tips.html
and I saw in the new Quilter's Newsletter Magazine that she has a DVD
coming out soon.

hope some of this helps
marcella



  #8  
Old August 6th 05, 03:31 AM
Cheryl
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Well done - making a beginner piece you are not afraid to try things on is
the way to go!

--
Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^

No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced......

"~KK in BC~" wrote in message
news:HNUIe.184403$tt5.115550@edtnps90...
WOW and WOW! I printed this off for future reference! Thank you so much

for
your time and experience here, it will be much appreciated when I do get
this sucker into the machine I am sure.

It is a size just bigger than a lap quilt made of not so quality kind of
fabrics for my first attempt at this MQ thing. It will probably go into my
camper so it isn't one that I am making as an heirloom that's for sure. It
is my beginner practice quilt.

~KK in BC~

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No trees were killed in the sending
of this message. However, a large
number of electrons were terribly
inconvenienced......
http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz


"Cheryl" wrote in message
...
You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do -

feathering,
close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you
plan
to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot.
And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many
quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make
really
large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a.
longarm) machine.

I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the
background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need
not
be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to
quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all
daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from
there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so
you
are not new to this.

The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would

recommend -
Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN
0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to
marking
and sewing, and is very well illustrated.

Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0.

However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up
many in the past:

!. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just
pin.
It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt
very
stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a

first
quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting .

It
takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you
don't
know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on

a
long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on

the
back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the
floor.
Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file
clips
(check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all
directions
so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline
first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going

to
baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier

to
baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough

to
just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of

a
student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!).
And
place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the
way
of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too

often.
TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake

and
coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker
that
way - one on each side of the table is all you need.
TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway

plastic
or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big

hunky
male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe
slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion
feet
and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height.

The
raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting,

and
you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My
students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion
feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when

you
don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you.

2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't

rush
it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage"

through
the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear
view
of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the

rolls,
but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work

and
the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through
the
quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out

quickly
and you won't have the clips banging around as you work.

3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem
obvious
but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using

up
old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you
really
want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem
when piecing than when quilting.

4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise,
practise, practise.

5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the

seams
(say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the

vertical
lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than

trying
to
turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for
horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and
end
you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any
longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the
quilt.

6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and
decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a
pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a
good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies),

leave
all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have
to
love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew
them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end

to
prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you
draw
your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all
visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the
foot
and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and

handturning
one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go

back
and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in.

7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise,
practise,
practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads

and
decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics
before
you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension
adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!!

8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take

the
weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is
on
a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table
behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those
quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left

can
avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you
manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L

shape
and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet,

have
the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most
manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but
they
make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the
needle
at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll

over
your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging.

9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get
some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves
that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if

the
gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the
table
and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also

help
your quilt slide more easily.

I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would
encourage
you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own
techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc.

You
have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and

pick
out the bits you want to adopt.

And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something
different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you
might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on.
--
Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^

No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced......

"Patti" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck.
I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I
probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts,

so
don't have so many of the problems!
.
In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~
writes
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and

I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite

figure
out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to

develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the

sandwich
to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do

you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone

has
a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could

benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


--
Best Regards
pat on the hill







  #9  
Old August 6th 05, 05:35 AM
Cheryl
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Should have added apologies for the long diatribe. My quilt group is away
for a four day retreat and I am home alone 'cos I couldn't go. So you
copped an outpouring.

Good luck with your quilting
--
Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^

No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced......

"~KK in BC~" wrote in message
news:HNUIe.184403$tt5.115550@edtnps90...
WOW and WOW! I printed this off for future reference! Thank you so much

for
your time and experience here, it will be much appreciated when I do get
this sucker into the machine I am sure.

It is a size just bigger than a lap quilt made of not so quality kind of
fabrics for my first attempt at this MQ thing. It will probably go into my
camper so it isn't one that I am making as an heirloom that's for sure. It
is my beginner practice quilt.

~KK in BC~

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No trees were killed in the sending
of this message. However, a large
number of electrons were terribly
inconvenienced......
http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz


"Cheryl" wrote in message
...
You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do -

feathering,
close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you
plan
to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot.
And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many
quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make
really
large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a.
longarm) machine.

I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the
background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need
not
be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to
quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all
daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from
there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so
you
are not new to this.

The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would

recommend -
Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN
0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to
marking
and sewing, and is very well illustrated.

Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0.

However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up
many in the past:

!. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just
pin.
It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt
very
stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a

first
quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting .

It
takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you
don't
know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on

a
long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on

the
back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the
floor.
Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file
clips
(check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all
directions
so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline
first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going

to
baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier

to
baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough

to
just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of

a
student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!).
And
place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the
way
of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too

often.
TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake

and
coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker
that
way - one on each side of the table is all you need.
TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway

plastic
or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big

hunky
male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe
slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion
feet
and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height.

The
raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting,

and
you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My
students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion
feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when

you
don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you.

2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't

rush
it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage"

through
the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear
view
of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the

rolls,
but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work

and
the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through
the
quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out

quickly
and you won't have the clips banging around as you work.

3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem
obvious
but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using

up
old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you
really
want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem
when piecing than when quilting.

4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise,
practise, practise.

5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the

seams
(say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the

vertical
lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than

trying
to
turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for
horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and
end
you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any
longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the
quilt.

6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and
decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a
pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a
good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies),

leave
all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have
to
love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew
them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end

to
prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you
draw
your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all
visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the
foot
and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and

handturning
one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go

back
and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in.

7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise,
practise,
practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads

and
decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics
before
you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension
adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!!

8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take

the
weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is
on
a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table
behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those
quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left

can
avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you
manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L

shape
and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet,

have
the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most
manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but
they
make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the
needle
at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll

over
your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging.

9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get
some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves
that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if

the
gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the
table
and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also

help
your quilt slide more easily.

I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would
encourage
you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own
techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc.

You
have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and

pick
out the bits you want to adopt.

And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something
different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you
might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on.
--
Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^

No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced......

"Patti" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck.
I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I
probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts,

so
don't have so many of the problems!
.
In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~
writes
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and

I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite

figure
out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to

develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the

sandwich
to
the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do

you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone

has
a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could

benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world


--
Best Regards
pat on the hill







  #10  
Old August 6th 05, 12:23 PM
Roberta Zollner
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Making the sandwich: IMO safety pin basting is easier because you can slip
the pins out just before you come to them. As you gain more experience, you
will be able to place the pins in spots where you don't plan to stitch. But
use lots of pins. Start with twice as many as you think you need.

I normally hang up a finished top and look at it for a long time to decide
on a quilt design. That's really the hardest part! Can't help you too much
there. Ecery quilt's different.

But let's say you have blocks with sashing and a border. I would start with
an all-over grid, possibly SITD down each side of the sashing strips. Start
with a middle strip, stitch from one end to the other. Work out to one side,
turn the quilt around and work out to the other side. Then turn sideways and
do the same for sashing going in the other direction. Then I would
completely quilt the border. Sew on the binding and trim away excess batting
and backing. The final step is something attractive in each block, either
outlining the design or some kind of medallion. And more stitching in the
sashing if needed. The idea is to quilt about the same density over the
whole surface.

Start with a smaller project, like a WH, that doesn't need a lot of control.
Don't try bed-size until you feel comfortable. And do lots of practice
pieces until you like the way your stitches look. Everybody has a
comfortable normal sewing speed at the machine, and you will develop a sense
of how fast you need to move the fabric with your hands to keep pace with
the needle.

I don't like to roll the quilt because it turns stiff and unwieldy. YMMD I
have quilted up to queen size, and so far never had one that couldn't be
mooshed through the harp. Remember, only about half the width needs to go
through that space. You are fine as long as the little piece you need to sew
on next is clear, and the rest you don't need to worry about! Make sure you
have tables to the left and behind the machine to take the weight of the
piece.
Roberta in D

"~KK in BC~" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89...
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out
where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop
a technique for any kind of MQing.

What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich
to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this.

How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you
tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a
different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit
from your helpful ideas and tips for this?

~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No trees were killed in the sending
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