If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Machine Quilting for a Dummy?
I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I
have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck.
I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so don't have so many of the problems! .. In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~ writes I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- Best Regards pat on the hill |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
In article 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89,
"~KK in BC~" wrote: I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world Here's how I do it. I decide if I'm going to hand or machine quilt. Then I decide how I'm going to baste - usually it's a choice between thread basting or fusible batt basting. I'm not a fan of pins as I find them heavy and a pain to either pull out or work around when I am in a quilting groove. Since I am anal about squaring things up the spray doesn't work to well with my method but I use it occasionally for small things. Tools - a carpenters square from the hardware store; a big flat space to lay things out (I can do a table but I prefer a floor where things stay put); big pins (I like those big quilting pins with the yellow bead at the end); batting; backing sewn to size, selvedges removed and pressed well; nicely pressed quilt top Lay out the backing wrong side up and smooth it out flat. Spread out the batting and smooth it out. Add the top, right side up, and smooth everything out nicely. Place the carpenters square (a big L shaped metal ruler) atop the center block of the quilt. Gently using your fingers adjust the top so that the right angle of the block exactly lines up with the right angle of the square. Be sure you only move the top of the quilt and the batt and backing remain in place to avoid wrinkles on the back. Using the big pins, pin along the newly squared seams. Slide the ruler to the next seam and line it up. Work across the quilt in both directions until every seam is pinned and perfectly straight and square. Gently lift each corner of the quilt and peek at the back to make sure it has remained smooth and flat. Now I either thread baste or press with an iron to fuse the batt to the top and back of the quilt. Then I thread baste around the edges of the quilt folding the backing up over the loose batting to keep it contained and give me a nice neat edge that won't catch on my machine. For quilting, I prefer the Paula Reid "puddling" method of machine quilting. Keep the quilt loose (rather than rolled or folded and clipped) under your machine. Using the walking foot I do some stabilizing quilting in the ditch around the blocks, borders and outside edge of the quilt. Now I can quilt my patterns either using the walking foot (for straight line or gently curving designs) or the darning foot for free motion quilting. I'm a pretty traditional quilter so my quilts are usually made up of rows of blocks surrounded by borders. I will typically quilt the center of the quilt first. I will start the pattern at the edge of the border with the first stitch in the seam line. I will take a few stitches and then pull the bobbin thread to the top so I can hang on to them both and not sew over them. When I have to stop I also leave a long tail and pull the bobbin thread to the top. After I have quilted the center I knot the threads together (needle and bobbin thread) thread them onto a big eyed embroidery needle and weave them into the quilt. I put the needle exactly into the hole the top thread is coming out of and slide the needle into the batt between the quilt layers. After sliding through the quilt layers a couple of inches I pull the needle out the top of the quilt, make sure the knot has popped into the quilt layers and trim the threads even with the top of the quilt. I happen to really like Sue Nickels Machine Quilting book (you can see it at Amazon.com) I also took a class from Paula Reid and she had a lot of good tips. She has some tips on her website http://www.battsintheattic.com/PrimaryPages/tips.html and I saw in the new Quilter's Newsletter Magazine that she has a DVD coming out soon. hope some of this helps marcella |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do - feathering,
close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you plan to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot. And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make really large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a. longarm) machine. I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need not be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so you are not new to this. The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would recommend - Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN 0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to marking and sewing, and is very well illustrated. Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0. However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up many in the past: !. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just pin. It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt very stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a first quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting . It takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you don't know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on a long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on the back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the floor. Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file clips (check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all directions so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going to baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier to baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough to just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of a student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!). And place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the way of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too often. TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake and coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker that way - one on each side of the table is all you need. TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway plastic or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big hunky male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion feet and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height. The raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting, and you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when you don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you. 2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't rush it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage" through the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear view of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the rolls, but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work and the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through the quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out quickly and you won't have the clips banging around as you work. 3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem obvious but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using up old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you really want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem when piecing than when quilting. 4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise, practise, practise. 5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the seams (say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the vertical lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than trying to turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and end you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the quilt. 6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies), leave all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have to love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end to prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you draw your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the foot and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and handturning one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go back and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in. 7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise, practise, practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads and decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics before you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!! 8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take the weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is on a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left can avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L shape and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet, have the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but they make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the needle at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll over your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging. 9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if the gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the table and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also help your quilt slide more easily. I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would encourage you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc. You have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and pick out the bits you want to adopt. And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on. -- Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... "Patti" wrote in message ... Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck. I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so don't have so many of the problems! . In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~ writes I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- Best Regards pat on the hill |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
well thanks for the vote of confidence saying I'll be fine....... I may beg
to differ soon but I am willing to try anyways! One small step for KK one huge headache for the family? LOL ~KK in BC~ -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz "Patti" wrote in message ... Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck. I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so don't have so many of the problems! . In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~ writes I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- Best Regards pat on the hill |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
WOW and WOW! I printed this off for future reference! Thank you so much for
your time and experience here, it will be much appreciated when I do get this sucker into the machine I am sure. It is a size just bigger than a lap quilt made of not so quality kind of fabrics for my first attempt at this MQ thing. It will probably go into my camper so it isn't one that I am making as an heirloom that's for sure. It is my beginner practice quilt. ~KK in BC~ -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz "Cheryl" wrote in message ... You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do - feathering, close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you plan to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot. And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make really large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a. longarm) machine. I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need not be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so you are not new to this. The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would recommend - Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN 0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to marking and sewing, and is very well illustrated. Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0. However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up many in the past: !. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just pin. It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt very stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a first quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting . It takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you don't know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on a long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on the back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the floor. Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file clips (check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all directions so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going to baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier to baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough to just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of a student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!). And place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the way of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too often. TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake and coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker that way - one on each side of the table is all you need. TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway plastic or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big hunky male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion feet and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height. The raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting, and you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when you don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you. 2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't rush it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage" through the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear view of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the rolls, but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work and the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through the quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out quickly and you won't have the clips banging around as you work. 3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem obvious but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using up old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you really want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem when piecing than when quilting. 4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise, practise, practise. 5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the seams (say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the vertical lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than trying to turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and end you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the quilt. 6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies), leave all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have to love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end to prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you draw your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the foot and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and handturning one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go back and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in. 7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise, practise, practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads and decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics before you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!! 8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take the weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is on a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left can avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L shape and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet, have the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but they make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the needle at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll over your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging. 9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if the gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the table and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also help your quilt slide more easily. I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would encourage you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc. You have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and pick out the bits you want to adopt. And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on. -- Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... "Patti" wrote in message ... Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck. I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so don't have so many of the problems! . In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~ writes I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- Best Regards pat on the hill |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you so much! Again printed and saved for later absorption as well.
I am so thankful for this group. It gives me a bit more confidence and a lot more ideas and education!! Since I live where I do, the closest long arm quilter is way down south, a long way from me so I decided its now or never to learn to make a passable quilted quilt. ~KK in BC~ -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz "Marcella Peek" wrote in message ... In article 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, "~KK in BC~" wrote: I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world Here's how I do it. I decide if I'm going to hand or machine quilt. Then I decide how I'm going to baste - usually it's a choice between thread basting or fusible batt basting. I'm not a fan of pins as I find them heavy and a pain to either pull out or work around when I am in a quilting groove. Since I am anal about squaring things up the spray doesn't work to well with my method but I use it occasionally for small things. Tools - a carpenters square from the hardware store; a big flat space to lay things out (I can do a table but I prefer a floor where things stay put); big pins (I like those big quilting pins with the yellow bead at the end); batting; backing sewn to size, selvedges removed and pressed well; nicely pressed quilt top Lay out the backing wrong side up and smooth it out flat. Spread out the batting and smooth it out. Add the top, right side up, and smooth everything out nicely. Place the carpenters square (a big L shaped metal ruler) atop the center block of the quilt. Gently using your fingers adjust the top so that the right angle of the block exactly lines up with the right angle of the square. Be sure you only move the top of the quilt and the batt and backing remain in place to avoid wrinkles on the back. Using the big pins, pin along the newly squared seams. Slide the ruler to the next seam and line it up. Work across the quilt in both directions until every seam is pinned and perfectly straight and square. Gently lift each corner of the quilt and peek at the back to make sure it has remained smooth and flat. Now I either thread baste or press with an iron to fuse the batt to the top and back of the quilt. Then I thread baste around the edges of the quilt folding the backing up over the loose batting to keep it contained and give me a nice neat edge that won't catch on my machine. For quilting, I prefer the Paula Reid "puddling" method of machine quilting. Keep the quilt loose (rather than rolled or folded and clipped) under your machine. Using the walking foot I do some stabilizing quilting in the ditch around the blocks, borders and outside edge of the quilt. Now I can quilt my patterns either using the walking foot (for straight line or gently curving designs) or the darning foot for free motion quilting. I'm a pretty traditional quilter so my quilts are usually made up of rows of blocks surrounded by borders. I will typically quilt the center of the quilt first. I will start the pattern at the edge of the border with the first stitch in the seam line. I will take a few stitches and then pull the bobbin thread to the top so I can hang on to them both and not sew over them. When I have to stop I also leave a long tail and pull the bobbin thread to the top. After I have quilted the center I knot the threads together (needle and bobbin thread) thread them onto a big eyed embroidery needle and weave them into the quilt. I put the needle exactly into the hole the top thread is coming out of and slide the needle into the batt between the quilt layers. After sliding through the quilt layers a couple of inches I pull the needle out the top of the quilt, make sure the knot has popped into the quilt layers and trim the threads even with the top of the quilt. I happen to really like Sue Nickels Machine Quilting book (you can see it at Amazon.com) I also took a class from Paula Reid and she had a lot of good tips. She has some tips on her website http://www.battsintheattic.com/PrimaryPages/tips.html and I saw in the new Quilter's Newsletter Magazine that she has a DVD coming out soon. hope some of this helps marcella |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Well done - making a beginner piece you are not afraid to try things on is
the way to go! -- Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... "~KK in BC~" wrote in message news:HNUIe.184403$tt5.115550@edtnps90... WOW and WOW! I printed this off for future reference! Thank you so much for your time and experience here, it will be much appreciated when I do get this sucker into the machine I am sure. It is a size just bigger than a lap quilt made of not so quality kind of fabrics for my first attempt at this MQ thing. It will probably go into my camper so it isn't one that I am making as an heirloom that's for sure. It is my beginner practice quilt. ~KK in BC~ -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz "Cheryl" wrote in message ... You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do - feathering, close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you plan to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot. And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make really large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a. longarm) machine. I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need not be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so you are not new to this. The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would recommend - Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN 0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to marking and sewing, and is very well illustrated. Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0. However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up many in the past: !. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just pin. It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt very stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a first quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting . It takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you don't know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on a long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on the back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the floor. Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file clips (check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all directions so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going to baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier to baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough to just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of a student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!). And place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the way of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too often. TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake and coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker that way - one on each side of the table is all you need. TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway plastic or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big hunky male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion feet and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height. The raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting, and you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when you don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you. 2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't rush it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage" through the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear view of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the rolls, but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work and the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through the quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out quickly and you won't have the clips banging around as you work. 3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem obvious but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using up old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you really want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem when piecing than when quilting. 4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise, practise, practise. 5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the seams (say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the vertical lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than trying to turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and end you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the quilt. 6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies), leave all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have to love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end to prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you draw your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the foot and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and handturning one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go back and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in. 7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise, practise, practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads and decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics before you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!! 8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take the weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is on a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left can avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L shape and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet, have the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but they make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the needle at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll over your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging. 9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if the gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the table and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also help your quilt slide more easily. I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would encourage you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc. You have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and pick out the bits you want to adopt. And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on. -- Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... "Patti" wrote in message ... Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck. I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so don't have so many of the problems! . In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~ writes I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- Best Regards pat on the hill |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Should have added apologies for the long diatribe. My quilt group is away
for a four day retreat and I am home alone 'cos I couldn't go. So you copped an outpouring. Good luck with your quilting -- Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... "~KK in BC~" wrote in message news:HNUIe.184403$tt5.115550@edtnps90... WOW and WOW! I printed this off for future reference! Thank you so much for your time and experience here, it will be much appreciated when I do get this sucker into the machine I am sure. It is a size just bigger than a lap quilt made of not so quality kind of fabrics for my first attempt at this MQ thing. It will probably go into my camper so it isn't one that I am making as an heirloom that's for sure. It is my beginner practice quilt. ~KK in BC~ -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz "Cheryl" wrote in message ... You haven't said what type of quilting you are trying to do - feathering, close stippling, continuous line, motif, outline, etc. Or whether you plan to use a walking foot or a jumping foot - or even just an open toe foot. And things can depend on the size of the quilt as well. These days many quilters produce quilts the size of bedspreads. If you want to make really large quilts, consider getting them quilted on a really large (a.k.a. longarm) machine. I don't do much of my own quilting anymore (Gasps of outrage in the background!) but often send away to a long-arm quiter. However, it need not be difficult. I teach quilt making and generally encourage everyone to quilt their first effort just to understand the process. They're all daunted to begin with, but most produce very good results and go on from there with more confidence. And you have abviously made other quilts so you are not new to this. The Rodale Successful Quilting books include one that I would recommend - Fast & Fun Machine Quilting. If you look in the library it's ISBN 0-87596-761-2. It discusses everything from needles and tension, to marking and sewing, and is very well illustrated. Lehman's Book "Threadplay" is also excellent - ISBN 1-56477-202-0. However, a few basic tips that may seem very obvious but have tripped up many in the past: !. If you've never done this before, take the time to baste rather just pin. It is one less hassle you will have to deal with and it makes the quilt very stable. When you are more confident you can pin and sew, but for a first quilt - baste. I don't use a running stitch, I use tailor's basting . It takes no longer and is very stable - no layer movement at all. If you don't know the term get back to me and I will try to describe it. We baste on a long table that has been raised to bench height. It is much easier on the back and knees than bending to normal table height or kneeling on the floor. Stretch the backing flat and hold down with either tape or large file clips (check the local office supply). Pin from the centre out in all directions so that you finish in the corners. For a large quilt do the centreline first then just move the quilt over to do each side. If you are going to baste, work from the centre out as well but do pin first. It is easier to baste when the backing is not stretched tight. If you are brave enough to just pin, remember to use safety pins and not quilting pins (memories of a student bringing in a half finished quilt covered in drops of blood!). And place your pins so that - as much as possible - they will not be in the way of your quilting, and you will not have to stop to remove pins too often. TIP 1 - quilting friend will usually help with this for chocolate cake and coffee and a promise of reciprocal help, and the job goes much quicker that way - one on each side of the table is all you need. TIP 2 - don't pin on you good antique table! Get a cheap foldaway plastic or laminate topped trestle. If it has hollow pipe legs get some big hunky male member of the family or a friend to cut you four lengths of pipe slightly smaller in circumference than the legs. Pull off the cushion feet and the pipes will slide inside the legs and raise the table height. The raised table MAY be a bit less stable but it will be fine for basting, and you could be swamped with requests to borrow it once word gets out. My students have three they share around. Don't forget to get some cushion feet for the pipe extensions, which you can slide off the trestle when you don't need to baste, leaving a usable work table for you. 2. Work from the centre out. Plan your quilting carefully, and don't rush it. If you roll each side of the quilt you can feed the "sausage" through the realtively small neck of a domestic machine and still have a clear view of your work. There are quilt clips (bicycle clips) that hold the rolls, but you may not even need them. If you want to do very detailed work and the quilt is likely to be rolled for longer periods, run thread through the quilt and around the rolls and tie them off. The threads pull out quickly and you won't have the clips banging around as you work. 3. Change needles often and use good quality thread. That may seem obvious but it is surprising how many times I have seen someone insist on using up old thread they had at home because it was the right colour. If you really want to use up the old thread it is easier to deal with a thread problem when piecing than when quilting. 4. Lengthen your stitch from your normal piecing length. And practise, practise, practise. 5. If you have a very large quilt and you want to stitch inside the seams (say square blocks 1/4" in from the edge) consider doing all the vertical lines, and then all the horizintal lines. It might be easier than trying to turn the quilt through the small opening or manhandle the heavy roll for horizontal and vertical straight lines. Depending on how you begin and end you might have a lot of ends to sew in, but it probably won't take any longer and it will save frustration and aching muscles manhandling the quilt. 6. Test out a couple of methods for beginning and ending your lines and decide which you prefer, then practise, practise, practise (do you see a pattern emerging here?). You can backstitch and clip off threads (not a good look for "special quilts but probably acceptable for quickies), leave all your threads hanging to be handsewn in later (my method but you have to love ends - sometimes a lot! - and you have to be careful not to oversew them), or drop your stitch length to near zero at the beginning and end to prevent stitches coming out. Whichever method you use I recommend you draw your threads to the top with the first stitch. That will keep them all visible. And if you plan to stop and start a lot consider lifting the foot and moving the quilt a few inches over to a finished area and handturning one stitch. That will anchor the tails out of the way and you can go back and cut them later to draw to the front and sew in. 7. Stick to basic threads until you are confident, And practise, practise, practise (there it is again!). Some of the lighter / heavier threads and decorative lurex/synthetic threads look great, but master the basics before you overlay the problems of having to deal with fragile threads, tension adjustments, etc. And practise, practise, practise!!!!! 8. Set up your work area so that you have a surface available to take the weight of the quilt as much of the time as possible. If your machine is on a table clear the area behind it. If it is in a cabinet, set up a table behind the cabinet so the quilt won't hang and pull as it is sewn (those quilts get real heavy). Another table surface next to you on the left can avoid the need for you to hold the entire weight of the quilt as you manipulate it through as well. I used to set up two tables in an L shape and work at the inside corner. If your machine is not in a cabinet, have the flat bed attached, or even one of the quilting extensions that most manufacturers have these days. You can quilt without one of these, but they make the job a lot easier. And keep the weight of the quilt off the needle at all times. Either "puddle" the quilt in your lap or have the roll over your shoulder and loose to feed through the machine without dragging. 9. Especially if you are using a jumping foot (free motion quiting), get some quilting gloves, or try to get some of those cheap gardening gloves that have the little rubberised dots on them to provide extra grip (if the gloves are real cheap, check the dots won't rub off!). Polishing the table and sewing surface before you start (I use a spray polish) will also help your quilt slide more easily. I could go on forever - it looks like I already have! But I would encourage you to leap on in and just try everything. You will develop your own techniques that suit your machine, your quilts, your work area, etc. You have already begun by asking questions. Take in all the answers and pick out the bits you want to adopt. And take it all as advice - not as rules. If you want to try something different, don't let anyone tell you not to. It might not work. Or you might discover a better way to do things and be able to pass it on. -- Cheryl ^;;^ ^;;^ ^;;^ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... "Patti" wrote in message ... Just wanted to say 'you'll be fine' and wish you good luck. I won't tell you about my ways, as I have never been taught and I probably do things incorrectly. Besides, I mostly make small quilts, so don't have so many of the problems! . In message 1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89, ~KK in BC~ writes I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- Best Regards pat on the hill |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Making the sandwich: IMO safety pin basting is easier because you can slip
the pins out just before you come to them. As you gain more experience, you will be able to place the pins in spots where you don't plan to stitch. But use lots of pins. Start with twice as many as you think you need. I normally hang up a finished top and look at it for a long time to decide on a quilt design. That's really the hardest part! Can't help you too much there. Ecery quilt's different. But let's say you have blocks with sashing and a border. I would start with an all-over grid, possibly SITD down each side of the sashing strips. Start with a middle strip, stitch from one end to the other. Work out to one side, turn the quilt around and work out to the other side. Then turn sideways and do the same for sashing going in the other direction. Then I would completely quilt the border. Sew on the binding and trim away excess batting and backing. The final step is something attractive in each block, either outlining the design or some kind of medallion. And more stitching in the sashing if needed. The idea is to quilt about the same density over the whole surface. Start with a smaller project, like a WH, that doesn't need a lot of control. Don't try bed-size until you feel comfortable. And do lots of practice pieces until you like the way your stitches look. Everybody has a comfortable normal sewing speed at the machine, and you will develop a sense of how fast you need to move the fabric with your hands to keep pace with the needle. I don't like to roll the quilt because it turns stiff and unwieldy. YMMD I have quilted up to queen size, and so far never had one that couldn't be mooshed through the harp. Remember, only about half the width needs to go through that space. You are fine as long as the little piece you need to sew on next is clear, and the rest you don't need to worry about! Make sure you have tables to the left and behind the machine to take the weight of the piece. Roberta in D "~KK in BC~" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:1oPIe.171419$9A2.126409@edtnps89... I need HELP. I have never actually MQ'd anything. I have done SITD and I have tied and I have done QAYG but never have been able to quite figure out where to start and how to do it and what is the easy way and how to develop a technique for any kind of MQing. What I need and cannot find anywhere is a step by step from the sandwich to the stitching to the finishing of how to do this. How do you get yourself in order to MQ? What steps do you take? How do you tame the beast roll the thing, do small parts, etc? Since everyone has a different way of attacking this I thought maybe some of us could benefit from your helpful ideas and tips for this? ~KK in BC~ who is willing to bite off a new chew in the quilting world -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced...... http://community.webshots.com/user/koffeekupz |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
RCTQ FAQ for May 2005 | frood | Quilting | 5 | May 7th 05 07:07 PM |
FAQ for RCTQ Feb | Diana Curtis | Quilting | 7 | February 2nd 05 05:08 PM |
Quilting machine | merrystitch | Quilting | 48 | August 25th 04 08:55 PM |
Machine quilting, which design? | Judie Luisi | Quilting | 5 | March 14th 04 11:44 AM |
Quilting machine comparison please help! | Barbara Bomberger | Quilting | 1 | December 22nd 03 10:54 PM |