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Sticky wax for buffing



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 26th 08, 07:27 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
eromlignod
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Posts: 2
Default Sticky wax for buffing

Hi guys:

When I was in Jr. High crafts class, we did some lapidary work with
obsidian. When we sanded and buffed it we used some sort of green wax
that we heated up and used to attach the stone to the end of a wooden
stick. When it solidified it really stuck down hard.

I'd like to use some of this for an engineering project. I'm sure
most of you will know what I'm talking about. What is it, and where
might I get hold of some?

Thanks for any replies.

Don
Kansas City
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  #2  
Old July 27th 08, 01:55 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Don T
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Posts: 14
Default Sticky wax for buffing

"eromlignod" wrote in message
news
Hi guys:

When I was in Jr. High crafts class, we did some lapidary work with
obsidian. When we sanded and buffed it we used some sort of green wax
that we heated up and used to attach the stone to the end of a wooden
stick. When it solidified it really stuck down hard.

I'd like to use some of this for an engineering project. I'm sure
most of you will know what I'm talking about. What is it, and where
might I get hold of some?

Thanks for any replies.

Don
Kansas City


It's called Dop wax and can be found at http://ebersolelapidary.com/ ( in
Wichita BTW ) under "lapidary supplies. Or look in your local yellow pages
for lapidary. I'm sure there is someplace in KC that handles the stuff.

--


Don Thompson

Stolen from Dan: "Just thinking, besides, I watched 2 dogs mating once,
and that makes me an expert. "

There is nothing more frightening than active ignorance.
~Goethe

It is a worthy thing to fight for one's freedom;
it is another sight finer to fight for another man's.
~Mark Twain


  #3  
Old July 27th 08, 01:55 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Carl 1 Lucky Texan
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Posts: 57
Default Sticky wax for buffing

eromlignod wrote:

Hi guys:

When I was in Jr. High crafts class, we did some lapidary work with
obsidian. When we sanded and buffed it we used some sort of green wax
that we heated up and used to attach the stone to the end of a wooden
stick. When it solidified it really stuck down hard.

I'd like to use some of this for an engineering project. I'm sure
most of you will know what I'm talking about. What is it, and where
might I get hold of some?

Thanks for any replies.

Don
Kansas City


Usually called 'dop wax'. Try a lapidary or jewelry tools supplier.

If you describe your project, someone may be able to suggest some
alternatives as well.

Carl



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  #4  
Old July 27th 08, 01:55 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
C Ryman
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Posts: 42
Default Sticky wax for buffing

What you are probably looking for is Dop Wax, like this:

http://www.kingsleynorth.com/skshop/...=15&count =20

--
Connie R.

"eromlignod" wrote in message
news
Hi guys:

When I was in Jr. High crafts class, we did some lapidary work with
obsidian. When we sanded and buffed it we used some sort of green wax
that we heated up and used to attach the stone to the end of a wooden
stick. When it solidified it really stuck down hard.

I'd like to use some of this for an engineering project. I'm sure
most of you will know what I'm talking about. What is it, and where
might I get hold of some?

Thanks for any replies.

Don
Kansas City


  #5  
Old July 28th 08, 05:45 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Graver
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Posts: 14
Default Sticky wax for buffing

On Jul 26, 8:55=A0pm, "C Ryman" wrote:
What you are probably looking for is Dop Wax, like this:

http://www.kingsleynorth.com/skshop/...D=3D196&key..=

..

--
Connie R.

"eromlignod" wrote in message

news


Hi guys:


When I was in Jr. High crafts class, we did some lapidary work with
obsidian. =A0When we sanded and buffed it we used some sort of green wa=

x
that we heated up and used to attach the stone to the end of a wooden
stick. =A0When it solidified it really stuck down hard.


I'd like to use some of this for an engineering project. =A0I'm sure
most of you will know what I'm talking about. =A0What is it, and where
might I get hold of some?


Thanks for any replies.


Don
Kansas City- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -






Here's a better idea that you'll get better results with. Find a nail
with a large head, or a piece of metal rod 1/8 round and use epoxy to
fasten the stone to it. Dopping wax will melt when heated by the
friction of the wheel. I'm only speaking of the final polish where you
use diamond paste on a leather disk thats spinning. I polish a little
then touch the stone to the palm of my hand to check for heating. When
finished, I use a small rag moistened with cold water and hold it
around the stone. I hold the other end with a small vise grip and heat
the nail or rod until it releases the glue. I've used this technique
on Opals and have never had a fracture. There's nothing worst then
polishing something and having it fly off the end using dopping wax.
Stones like Jade have to be pushed against a polishing wheel with some
force to get rid of what is called an orange peel finish.
  #6  
Old July 28th 08, 05:50 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Peter W.. Rowe,
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Posts: 355
Default Sticky wax for buffing

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:45:11 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Graver


selected quote from the OP's post...

I'd like to use some of this for an engineering project.




Here's a better idea that you'll get better results with. Find a nail
with a large head, or a piece of metal rod 1/8 round and use epoxy to
fasten the stone to it. Dopping wax will melt when heated by the
friction of the wheel. I'm only speaking of the final polish where you
use diamond paste on a leather disk thats spinning. I polish a little
then touch the stone to the palm of my hand to check for heating. When
finished, I use a small rag moistened with cold water and hold it
around the stone. I hold the other end with a small vise grip and heat
the nail or rod until it releases the glue. I've used this technique
on Opals and have never had a fracture. There's nothing worst then
polishing something and having it fly off the end using dopping wax.
Stones like Jade have to be pushed against a polishing wheel with some
force to get rid of what is called an orange peel finish.


All good info about dopping for lapidary uses. Epoxy is a bit more costly to
use, of course, and takes a little longer to mount a stone, than using dop wax
(which is reusable). I sometimes use plain orange flake shellac for dopping,
when the stones aren't especially heat sensative. It's higher melting point
makes it less likely to let go of a stone. And heat is only a problem when
using diamond polishing compounds. If using traditional oxide polishes, they're
usually used with at least some water, so the stone doesn't get so hot. Jade,
as you note, is an exception, and there are others too. But often, it's simply
not an issue.

But I might point out, as noted in the little bit selected from the OP's post,
that lapidary use in dopping stones is not the application he apparently has in
mind

Peter
  #7  
Old July 31st 08, 07:44 AM
Lakers Lakers is offline
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First recorded activity by CraftBanter: Jul 2008
Posts: 34
Default

I have been waiting for about 5 days now but the shipping times are 10-19 days. As soon as I get them I will let you know. I have not seen you on that forum for a long time now and I was wondering where you are? How did it go with the collection that you got? Here is the link to the beads again http://www.liangdianup.com/beadscrafts_1.htm and here is the link to the Swarovski beads http://www.liangdianup.com/inventory/900020.htm if those links don't work then you can goto www.lducompany.com and click on the beads picture, that should take you right there. I hope you see this message and get back to me cause I miss talking to you
  #8  
Old July 31st 08, 05:40 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
eromlignod
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Posts: 2
Default Sticky wax for buffing

Thanks for all the replies. I ordered some dop wax from the link you
gave me.

Now...what is the best way to melt it?

What I'm using it for is to position some small mechanical parts onto
a flat surface. I need to be able to adjust their position and let
them harden in place. I would use glue, but I need to be able to re-
heat the wax and re-adjust the position in the future, if needed.

Will a hair dryer be hot enough to soften the wax for adjustment?
What other methods are there?

Don
  #9  
Old August 1st 08, 06:46 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Heinrich Butschal[_3_]
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Posts: 21
Default Sticky wax for buffing


eromlignod schrieb:
Thanks for all the replies. I ordered some dop wax from the link you
gave me.

Now...what is the best way to melt it?

What I'm using it for is to position some small mechanical parts onto
a flat surface. I need to be able to adjust their position and let
them harden in place. I would use glue, but I need to be able to re-
heat the wax and re-adjust the position in the future, if needed.

Will a hair dryer be hot enough to soften the wax for adjustment?
What other methods are there?

Don


Take a candle, that is easier.

Mit freundlichem Gruß,
Heinrich Butschal
--
Schmuck Gutachter und Schmuckverkauf http://www.butschal.de
Schmuck nach Maß anfertigen http://www.meister-atelier.de
Firmengeschenke und Ehrennadeln http://www.goldschmiede-meister.com
Schmuckmanufaktur http://www.schmuckfabrik.de
Schmuck gut verkaufen und günstig kaufen http://www.schmuck-boerse.com
  #10  
Old August 1st 08, 06:47 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Carl 1 Lucky Texan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 57
Default Sticky wax for buffing

eromlignod wrote:

Thanks for all the replies. I ordered some dop wax from the link you
gave me.

Now...what is the best way to melt it?

What I'm using it for is to position some small mechanical parts onto
a flat surface. I need to be able to adjust their position and let
them harden in place. I would use glue, but I need to be able to re-
heat the wax and re-adjust the position in the future, if needed.

Will a hair dryer be hot enough to soften the wax for adjustment?
What other methods are there?

Don



Hmmm.... depending on the surfaces involved, a heat 'gun' (not hair
dryer) may work. The type sold for shrink tubing activation in
electronics, or paint removal,etc. The surfaces should ideally be hot
enough to melt the wax. If they are prepared with a shellac coating, you
may get away with less heat and still achieve a good bond. If these
small parts are being placed on a large, metallic substrate, it will
need to be heated as well.

If you have trouble, consider painting the surfaces with shellac before
bonding them with the wax.

Engravers 'pitch' may be another substance that could work.


Carl


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