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Took a class



 
 
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  #41  
Old February 14th 07, 06:30 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Frosty
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 155
Default Took a class

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 03:59:15 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry ted frater
, intended to write something intelligible, but
instead wrote :

Frosty wrote:
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 05:38:37 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
, pulled fingers out of his butt and stuck 'em in
his mouth and said gsrmuumfmdmurmmscommwuummm:

Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:

On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 18:47:45 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:


Frosty wrote:



Anyway it's an unbelievable substance that I put on my sawblades and
it helps me cut straighter and easier and I don't break sawblades
hardly at all (and I use 9/0 blades mostly.)

A total waste of money. Spit is the best lubricant. Just lick your saw
blades. Never fails. I've been doing it for more than 30 years.

And after the first few years, either you learn to lick the blade in the
downward direction, or the cuts stop hurting so much in any case.

personally, I prefer bur life over spit, especially on drill bits. Seems less
messy. Not that it works better, though...

On drill bits, I use Wintergreen oil.



I can't find genuine Wintergreen oil. Will synthetic do?

one "tongue-in-cheek" problem with spit, of course, is that it might cause a
blade to rust.

Rust has never been a problem, since the blades do not stay wet long
enough. Thew spit evaporates due to the heat developed through
friction. That's how fast I saw. And when I file, it gets so hot,
sparks fly!



You must be sawing steel. ;-)

That might mean needing to change the blade more than once a
year or so, before the teeth are totally worn off.

Most of the time, my blades do indeed wear out and get dull, before they
break. It was very different when I was a beginner.




If you really want to see sparks fly try sawing lighter flint.
you can get it in big blocks from a backwoods mens shop.


Can you post a URL please?


Ads
  #42  
Old February 15th 07, 04:53 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Heinrich Butschal
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default Took a class

Frosty schrieb:
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 05:38:37 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
, pulled fingers out of his butt and stuck 'em in
his mouth and said gsrmuumfmdmurmmscommwuummm: =20
Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 18:47:45 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:

Frosty wrote:


Anyway it's an unbelievable substance that I put on my sawblades a=

nd
it helps me cut straighter and easier and I don't break sawblades
hardly at all (and I use 9/0 blades mostly.)
A total waste of money. Spit is the best lubricant. Just lick you=

r saw=20
blades. Never fails. I've been doing it for more than 30 years.
And after the first few years, either you learn to lick the blade in =

the
downward direction, or the cuts stop hurting so much in any case.

personally, I prefer bur life over spit, especially on drill bits. S=

eems less
messy. Not that it works better, though...

On drill bits, I use Wintergreen oil.

=20
I can't find genuine Wintergreen oil. Will synthetic do?
one "tongue-in-cheek" problem with spit, of course, is that it might =

cause a
blade to rust. =20

Rust has never been a problem, since the blades do not stay wet long=20
enough. Thew spit evaporates due to the heat developed through=20
friction. That's how fast I saw. And when I file, it gets so hot,=20
sparks fly!

=20
You must be sawing steel. ;-)
That might mean needing to change the blade more than once a
year or so, before the teeth are totally worn off.=20

Most of the time, my blades do indeed wear out and get dull, before th=

ey=20
break. It was very different when I was a beginner.

=20
=20

For sawing gold/whitegold/platinum and silver I use spit or beewax wich i=
s=20
attached to my workbench, so it=C2=B4s easy to put the sawblade through i=
t, from=20
time to time.

With best regards,
Heinrich Butschal
--=20
Estate Jewelry http://www.schmuck-boerse.com
Famous antique Jewelry http://www.royal-magazin.de
Goldsmith signet rings http://www.meister-atelier.de
Firmengeschenke und Ehrennadeln http://www.schmuckfabrik.de

  #43  
Old February 17th 07, 05:11 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
MatthewK
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 17
Default Took a class

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 06:16:46 +0000, Abrasha wrote:




Those hand files are all #3, and they stink, ... big time. Not even
useful as nail files.


After using a #2 as a nail file....I can't imagine a #3.

matthew (owner of expensive nail files)
ohio

  #44  
Old February 17th 07, 06:15 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Abrasha
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 298
Default Took a class

Abrasha wrote:


Hand files in medium are like buying nail files. And half round is
shape you will not use a lot. For the few times, that you will need a
half round, you're better off using a "Mizzy" wheel. Faster, and
cheaper. Medium cut hand files are useless, they take forever to cut
through metal. Buy the coarsest hand file you can find. I use a 12" 0
cut for my rough cuts. Goes through gold and silver in seconds. That
sucker weighs about a pound. I'll post a picture of it on my site in
the next day or so. All my hand files are 0 cut. Anything finer is no
good for a hand file.


Here it is. http://www.abrasha.com/misc/bigfile.htm

Is that a big file, ... or what?

Uh, btw, my nick name is "six eyes"

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

  #45  
Old February 17th 07, 06:41 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Peter W.. Rowe,
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 355
Default Took a class

On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 09:15:01 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:


Here it is. http://www.abrasha.com/misc/bigfile.htm

Is that a big file, ... or what?

Uh, btw, my nick name is "six eyes"

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com



Not bad. though I've got a few that are bigger. I'll also say they aren't so
useful at the bench. You've kinda got to be standing up, with the work in a
vise, to use both hands, for the really big ones. Good for woodworking more
than jewelry...

Nice photo.

And, shouldn't you be adding, for safety, a full face shield to that rig? The
optivisors don't cover absolutely everything... (you DID say you file
aggressively enough to shoot off sparks and all, so I'm thinking the same
precautions recommended for grinders and drill presses apply...) Or do you just
like to live on the wild and dangerous side?

:-)

Peter
  #46  
Old February 18th 07, 01:11 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Abrasha
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 298
Default Took a class

Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:
On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 09:15:01 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:

Here it is. http://www.abrasha.com/misc/bigfile.htm

Is that a big file, ... or what?

Uh, btw, my nick name is "six eyes"

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com



Not bad. though I've got a few that are bigger. I'll also say they aren't so
useful at the bench.


I use mine at the bench all the time. I find it very useful.

You've kinda got to be standing up, with the work in a
vise, to use both hands, for the really big ones.


Not so with mine at all. As I said, I use it at the bench all the time.
I also use it standing up, but never with precious metal in the vise.

Good for woodworking more
than jewelry...


No, this is a metal file, not a wood rasp.

Nice photo.


It's nice what a digital camera and a tripod can do quickly.
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

  #47  
Old February 18th 07, 01:29 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Peter W.. Rowe,
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 355
Default Took a class

On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 16:11:01 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:

Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:
On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 09:15:01 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:

Here it is. http://www.abrasha.com/misc/bigfile.htm

Is that a big file, ... or what?

Uh, btw, my nick name is "six eyes"

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


Not bad. though I've got a few that are bigger. I'll also say they aren't so
useful at the bench.


I use mine at the bench all the time. I find it very useful.

You've kinda got to be standing up, with the work in a
vise, to use both hands, for the really big ones.


Not so with mine at all. As I said, I use it at the bench all the time.
I also use it standing up, but never with precious metal in the vise.

Good for woodworking more
than jewelry...


No, this is a metal file, not a wood rasp.

I have a number that seem similar to yours, which I too use at the bench. The
one I was thinking of though, has an overall length, including the handle, of
about 24 inches. The toothed area is a bit under 15 inches of that. The face
of the file is 1.5 inches wide, and the thing is 3/8th inch thick. The result
is a file that weighs in at just shy of three pounds, and THAT's what makes it
cumbersome to use with just one hand at the bench. Not impossible, just tiring,
and just a bit larger than I need at the bench. The cut isn't a rasp at all,
but a pretty standard ******* or coarser mill file (not sure which. It's not
marked) I actually used it the most when I was filing things while spinning on
a lathe (needed tapers, on a lathe not equipped to do that, so I'd turn little
steps, then file out the steps still on the lathe. Those items were metal.
These days, though, without such a lathe, the file gets more use on wood. No
real reason, it just seems to. Maybe the coolest part about it was it's cost.
this was in 1989, mind you, but MSC had this special on chinese made files. A
hundred assorted files for fifty dollars. That's 50 cents per file. This baby
was one of them.

cheers

Peter
 




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