[Ganoksin] [Issue #123] Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

The Ganoksin Project
S i n c e 1 9 9 6
Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Techniques
http://www.ganoksin.com

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In This Edition:


1. Gem Dealers's Secrets - Handbook for the Gem Buyer
2. Classical Revival
3. The Jewelry of Barbara Heinrich
4. Making a Forged Platinum Pearl Ring - A Step by Step Project
5. Understanding the New MJSA/WGC White Gold Color Index
6. Platinum Casting: The Power of Process Control
7. Opinion - On Justifying Art
8. Studio Visit - Christina Smith
9. Kraftwerks 2005

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In This Edition of Tips From The Jeweler's Bench
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm

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1. [Full Vesrion] Gem Dealers's Secrets - Handbook for the Gem Buyer
By Sondra Francis, G.G.

Sondra Francis has scoured every major colored gemstone market in the
world since 1978. She was a charter member of the American Gemstone
Association and served as a board member. She was a founding member of
the International Colored Gemstone Association. A true gem lover,
Sondra has marketed her treasures on the wholesale and retail markets.


This book was written as a guideline for the potential buyer of
gemstones that are mined from the earth or formed by some natural
organic process. As a knowledgeable buyer you will be a confident one.
Natural gemstones offer the consumer many choices in all price ranges.
This book is not intended as a reference work for gemologist, but as a
practical guide for the informed amateur/professional.

Many varieties of stones are described in this book; some of them are
quite common; some very rare. A few are mentioned that you would have
difficulty in finding. Extremely rare colors or gemstone varieties
which are primarily of interest to collectors and museums have been
omitted from this text since these are not available to most consumers.
Today more gemstone varieties are available to choose from than any
prior time in history.

Technical information on gemstones is included to help you understand
each variety's unique properties. Gemology has become a professional
and highly specialized field; a competent seller can be of great help
in helping you make a wise and satisfying purchase.

I am pleased to announce that Ganoksin has made available for a online
reading the full version of Sondra Francis' book:

Table of content - 27 Chapters:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/contents.htm

Selected Excerpts from: Handbook for the Gem Buyer
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/dire...y/subject/85/1

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2. Classical Revival
By Marjorie Simon

The classics never go out of style. Classicism as a design principle
has come to mean simplicity, proportion, restraint, and symmetry, or
admiration and imitation of these principles. it is often contrasted
with romanticism, and connotes a kind of conservatism inherent in
looking backward Classical jewelry is usually made of gold, and based
on Etruscan, Greek, and Roman designs or techniques....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...al-revival.htm

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3. The Jewelry of Barbara Heinrich
By Nina Graci

Jewelry maker and studio boss Barbara Heinrich keeps business
strategies and artistic expression in harmony while creating jewelry
designs that strike a chord. When technical mastery meets metal and
brilliant stones in her studio, the result is a high-carat opera whose
chorus is gold, diamonds hit the high notes, and colored stones are the
featured players. When jewelry feels like music, it is unmistakably a
Heinrich design....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...a-heinrich.htm

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4. Making a Forged Platinum Pearl Ring - A Step by Step Project
By Jurgen J. Maerz

This project will teach welding, soldering and forging techniques. The
ring is a handsome, plain design and can be applied to many
applications. To make this ring, you will need....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...tinum-ring.htm

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5. Understanding the New MJSA/WGC White Gold Color Index
By Daniel Ballard

Have you ever noticed how white gold varies in color? Many folks think
white gold is the same color as rhodium because all the white gold they
ever saw was plated with rhodium. Others who have bought very
inexpensive white gold have seen the "real" color and all too soon due
to a very thin plating job. That can be frustrating. Most of us are
aware that the white color comes from the alloy used. Manufacturers are
very aware of the consequences of the different white alloys. Some of
us are allergic to nickel in contact with the skin. In Europe a
restriction was imposed in response to the allergy suffered by some
people. Even jewelry that complies with the restriction can cause
allergic symptoms. As a result non nickel white gold is often the
choice there. If you increase your understanding you will make better
white gold...

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...olor-index.htm

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6. Platinum Casting: The Power of Process Control
By Helmut F. Frye, Ph.D. and Timothy L. Donohue

It is widely known that platinum, the most noble of metals, is also the
most challenging of metals. Platinum's high level of sensitivity to
even the tiniest variation in processing was something we had
experienced first hand and as most things of high value, had to be
learned the hard way. We now maintain a controlled process with yields
upwards of 95%. The beauty of a controlled process is that given the
right tools and a high level of determination, anyone can do it....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ng-control.htm

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7. Opinion - On Justifying Art
By J. Fred Woell

For many years, I have struggled to find ways of conveying the meaning
of art and its importance. I had come to believe that when critics and
teachers talk about art they primarily only talk about what we see on
the surface, the formal issues of design, composition, materials,
technique, and craftsmanship. In my quest to develop significant ways
to justify art, I wanted to go further to the invisible and emotional
aspects of creative work. This society badly needs art, and I feel we
must find ways of understanding why art is so important to our entire
culture if we ever expect it to become a healing and nurturing force in
our lives....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ifying-art.htm

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8. Studio Visit - Christina Smith
By Jennifer Cross Gans

Keeping a life in balance isn't easy, and for the studio artist it's a
push-pull between dealing with the outside world and making time and
space for creativity. California artist Christina smith manages to do
both, at the price of working a back-breaking schedule. During the day,
the friendly and outgoing Smith is an assistant professor at California
State University, Fullerton. After more than 20 years in the academic
salt mines, she's now on the tenure track, teaching beginning crafts in
addition to undergraduate and graduate level metalsmithing....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...tina-smith.htm

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9. Kraftwerks 2005

The eighth annual Kraftwerks will be held in 2005-October 29th and
30th. As always the event will be within the Ontario, California
refinery owned by Precious Metals West/Fine Gold. In past years the
event was held in August which proved to be very hot weather for live
manufacturing and bench demonstrations. Our facility will again provide
the shop space, equipment and tools for Kraftwerks to produce another
batch of better jewelers, designers and manufacturers. This year
features casting and a major emphasis on bench skills.

This year Saturday will be "A Day Of Platinum". Featuring hands on
demonstrations by Jurgen Maerz on casting and bench techniques by
Jurgen and Charles Lewton-Brain.

Saturday night will again feature the "Brainstorm Bar and Grill". At
the end of the day we will shut down all the equipment, light the two
huge BBQ's and open the Brainstorm Bar. Talented jewelers sit together
and eat, drink, and exchange ideas, problems and solutions for all who
attend. Jurgen Maerz will perform his famous magic tricks, and
entertain us all. A special White Gold Discussion Group will follow up
on the White Gold Color index.

Sunday will feature the new MJSA Jewelry Academy. Directed by Teresa
Shannon this new Academy will provide some truly top class instructors
and jewelry making talent to demonstrate, share and coach you to a
whole new level of jewelry making skill. From bench work to casting how
to use the latest innovative technologies, learn from the best.

There will be further announcements as the rest of the invited
Kraftmasters confirm availability.

Either day or just the dinner can be attended. The cost to attend is
lower than ever. Just $400 for the whole weekend. This is $200 dollars
less than last year.

Saturday only with the dinner is $225. "Academy Day" Sunday only is
just $200. Very limited "dinner only" seats are available for $35.00!
The Sheraton Ontario has four star accommodations for less than $100
when registered through PMWest.

Places are limited so contact PMWest at 800-999-7528 or 213-689-4872
for more information or reservations. e-mail
or fax 213-689-1654

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