good vs bad white gold

I've got a white gold engagement ring that I just love. However,
after reading up on white gold after I got it, I'm a bit annoyed. The
way I understand it, in the US, most white gold is made of a nickel
and gold alloy, which is somewhat yellowish, so a rhodium plating is
applied to make it bright and shiny. But the plating wears away over
time and needs to be reapplied periodically.

When I read this, I wondered why my mother's white gold jewelry never
had this problem, and why I've had no problems with this white gold
ring I bought in Greece years ago and wear rather hard. So then I
found out that there is another kind of white gold made from palladium
and gold, which isn't yellow and doesn't need rhodium plating. And
that they used to use it in the US, and that they still use it in
Europe. So that explains that. Please correct me if I've got my
facts wrong.

Nobody ever told us this BEFORE my fiance and I bought the ring, which
****ed me off. I do NOT want to regularly bring my ring in for
replating! Had I know this from the beginning, I probably wouldn't
have gotten a ring made out of this kind of white gold.

My question for you jewelry experts it this: why on earth do US
jewelers use the gold/nickel/rhodium stuff? It seems pretty crappy in
comparison to the palladium stuff. I was planning on having my
wedding ring custom made. Can I request that it be made of the good
stuff? Or is there some bizarre reason why US jewelers can only use
the "bad" kind?

And another question: what's the best way to clean jewelry made of
rhodium-plated white gold to minimize the need for replating? I
assume my toothbrush and windex method is not ideal? What about a
sonic cleaner? My ring as a blue topaz in it - is it safe to put in a
sonic cleaner?

Thanks for your time!!
:-)
margaret

HurricaneMB wrote:
I've got a white gold engagement ring that I just love. However,
after reading up on white gold after I got it, I'm a bit annoyed. The
way I understand it, in the US, most white gold is made of a nickel
and gold alloy, which is somewhat yellowish, so a rhodium plating is
applied to make it bright and shiny. But the plating wears away over
time and needs to be reapplied periodically.

That depends on exact mixture of gold/nickel and copper. It is possible
to create white gold alloys in 14 and 18 karat gold wich are smooth,
fine white and don´t need any plating.
However not everybody is able and experienced enough to create them.

When I read this, I wondered why my mother's white gold jewelry never
had this problem, and why I've had no problems with this white gold
ring I bought in Greece years ago and wear rather hard. So then I
found out that there is another kind of white gold made from palladium
and gold, which isn't yellow and doesn't need rhodium plating.

Gold alloys with palladium, instead of nickel never might get as white as
good gold/nickel alloys could be. They tend towards grey colours.

......
And another question: what's the best way to clean jewelry made of
rhodium-plated white gold to minimize the need for replating?

Nothing :-( Except odering new in platinum/iridium alloy - the best white
colour you might get. :-)

Happy new Year

--
Heinrich Butschal
casting technologies
http://butschal.de/werkstatt

"HurricaneMB" wrote in message
...
I've got a white gold engagement ring that I just love. However,
after reading up on white gold after I got it, I'm a bit annoyed. The
way I understand it, in the US, most white gold is made of a nickel
and gold alloy, which is somewhat yellowish, so a rhodium plating is
applied to make it bright and shiny. But the plating wears away over
time and needs to be reapplied periodically.

Not only is this true, but the problem also extends to most good sterling
jewelry sold in the U.S. (except artisan-crafted jewelry, which almost never
is plated).


When I read this, I wondered why my mother's white gold jewelry never
had this problem, and why I've had no problems with this white gold
ring I bought in Greece years ago and wear rather hard. So then I
found out that there is another kind of white gold made from palladium
and gold, which isn't yellow and doesn't need rhodium plating. And
that they used to use it in the US, and that they still use it in
Europe. So that explains that. Please correct me if I've got my
facts wrong.

Your facts are correct except for the Europe vs. U.S. part. You can
definitely find palladium white gold products in the U.S. and rhodium-plated
nickle gold products in Europe. It really depends on the choices made by
the designer and manufacturer.

The truth is that virtually all "mall store" white gold will be
rhodium-plated nickle white. Some of it will even be regular ole 14K yellow
with a rhodium plating (from the REALLY deceptive stores). The reason is
one of simple economics -- it costs more to make the same ring with a
palladium alloy than it does to make it with a nickle alloy. And given the
average consumer's satisfaction with that shiny rhodium plating, there's
really nothing pushing them to do otherwise.

Nobody ever told us this BEFORE my fiance and I bought the ring, which
****ed me off. I do NOT want to regularly bring my ring in for
replating! Had I know this from the beginning, I probably wouldn't
have gotten a ring made out of this kind of white gold.

I understand your emotions, and wish that more folks would take the time to
do their own research BEFORE making that huge (often too huge for the value)
investment in a ring. Educated consumers are the best friends of
high-quality jewelers and jewelry artisans, because they recognize and can
see through the hype of the chain stores.

My question for you jewelry experts it this: why on earth do US
jewelers use the gold/nickel/rhodium stuff? It seems pretty crappy in
comparison to the palladium stuff. I was planning on having my
wedding ring custom made. Can I request that it be made of the good
stuff? Or is there some bizarre reason why US jewelers can only use
the "bad" kind?

You can certainly have your wedding ring custom made from non-plated
palladium white and should request that if it's what you want. BUT...
recognize that when you're wearing it next to that rhodium-plated engagement
ring the color difference will likely be noticeable. The palladium whites
have more of a gray-white look to them. Before making the choice,
definitely look at some pre-existing palladium bands next to your ring
(unless you're willing to spring for remounting your engagement ring at the
same time).


And another question: what's the best way to clean jewelry made of
rhodium-plated white gold to minimize the need for replating? I
assume my toothbrush and windex method is not ideal? What about a
sonic cleaner? My ring as a blue topaz in it - is it safe to put in a
sonic cleaner?

It really depends on the ring itself and how you wear it. You should NOT be
wearing any gold jewelry, plated or not, (especially with topaz of any color
in it) in the following conditions:
* Swimming pool/spa/hot tub or heavily chlorinated water for any length of
time
* In conditions where temperature changes rapidly (like putting cold hands
into a hot oven)
* Where it will be exposed to ANY chemicals, household or otherwise -- like
bleach, harsh cleansers, stain removers, etc.
* When your hands are likely to be in rough conditions, like planting or
gardening.

If you wear it gently and respect it , the plating should last a long
time -- but it will definitely require replating if it needs to be sized or
is exposed to any type of heat repair (replacing the head, installing a
comfort-fit shank, etc.).

Clean it regularly with an OLD and very SOFT toothbrush and a little windex
or household ammonia and it should be fine for a long time. Take it to a
REPUTABLE local jeweler (look for an independent, not a chain store) at
least once a year to have it professionally cleaned and the prongs inspected
for normal wear or bending -- this will help you not lose the stone(s),
which are the major part of the cost of most rings.


Thanks for your time!!

That's why we're here!

:-)
margaret


Best wishes,

KG

www dot nolimitations dot com