A crafts forum. CraftBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » CraftBanter forum » Textiles newsgroups » Sewing
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Help adjusting bodice, please? (long)



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old August 3rd 03, 08:56 AM
Trish Brown
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Help adjusting bodice, please? (long)

It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD!

I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I might,
I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric!

The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590.

The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a

Size: 10 12 14
Bust: 73 76 81
Waist: 62 65 67
Hip: 76 81 87

Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm.

The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is circular and
allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine a
starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one thing, I
don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using. The only
comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12) and
89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope.

I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to a
larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the size 10
(which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and tapering
out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with extra
width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby League
analogy...)!!!

The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment like
this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought it
might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned Scissors!),
I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on
puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap
sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to the
satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether?

Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this - I'm in a
tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-?
--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia

PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size 14 to
allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good bit
too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly what
we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and making
them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#& bodice
has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee......
Ads
  #2  
Old August 3rd 03, 03:12 PM
Sew-Sew Lady
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Here is what I would do for that pattern.
I would adjust (shorten) the bodice to make sure that it fits all above the
tummy---more of an empire waist.
I would cut out the bodice pieces a size 12. (Allowing for a little growing
before the actual ceremony) Cut out the skirt pieces size 14. Add length
to compensate for the empire waist. Ease the skirt onto the bodice--like a
sleeve. There's not so much difference between the two sizes, so if you use
two rows of gathering stitches, you should be able to stitch the skirt onto
the bodice with few if any noticeable puckers.
For the overlay, I would choose smooth, set in sleeves. [see
www.sewingpatterns.com and Simplicity pattern 5700] Cut the sleeve pieces
out of only the overlay fabric. Cut the bodice and skirt pieces out of both
fabrics. Baste the overlays to the dress fabrics and assemble the dress
according to the directions. Finish the sleeves either with a very narrow
hem or with a bias binding made of the dress fabric. You can also finish
the neckline with the bias trim.
I think this pattern will work out well for your daughter's figure. Good
luck.

Windy

"Trish Brown" wrote in message
...
It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD!

I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I

might,
I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric!

The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590.

The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a

Size: 10 12 14
Bust: 73 76 81
Waist: 62 65 67
Hip: 76 81 87

Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm.

The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is circular

and
allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine a
starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one thing,

I
don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using.

The only
comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12)

and
89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope.

I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to a
larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the size

10
(which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and

tapering
out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with

extra
width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby

League
analogy...)!!!

The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment

like
this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought

it
might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned

Scissors!),
I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on
puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap
sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to

the
satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether?

Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this -

I'm in a
tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-?
--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia

PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size

14 to
allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good

bit
too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly

what
we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and

making
them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#&

bodice
has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee......



  #3  
Old August 3rd 03, 03:21 PM
Sew-Sew Lady
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Oops! Adjust the overlay directions to treat the fabrics as one for the
bodice, but make an overlay skirt and a fabric skirt and attach them to the
bodice. My previous directions would have had them attached at the side
seams!



"Sew-Sew Lady" wrote in message
y.com...
Here is what I would do for that pattern.
I would adjust (shorten) the bodice to make sure that it fits all above

the
tummy---more of an empire waist.
I would cut out the bodice pieces a size 12. (Allowing for a little

growing
before the actual ceremony) Cut out the skirt pieces size 14. Add length
to compensate for the empire waist. Ease the skirt onto the bodice--like

a
sleeve. There's not so much difference between the two sizes, so if you

use
two rows of gathering stitches, you should be able to stitch the skirt

onto
the bodice with few if any noticeable puckers.
For the overlay, I would choose smooth, set in sleeves. [see
www.sewingpatterns.com and Simplicity pattern 5700] Cut the sleeve pieces
out of only the overlay fabric. Cut the bodice and skirt pieces out of

both
fabrics. Baste the overlays to the dress fabrics and assemble the dress
according to the directions. Finish the sleeves either with a very narrow
hem or with a bias binding made of the dress fabric. You can also finish
the neckline with the bias trim.
I think this pattern will work out well for your daughter's figure. Good
luck.

Windy

"Trish Brown" wrote in message
...
It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD!

I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I

might,
I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric!

The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590.

The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a

Size: 10 12 14
Bust: 73 76 81
Waist: 62 65 67
Hip: 76 81 87

Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm.

The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is

circular
and
allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine

a
starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one

thing,
I
don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using.

The only
comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10);

84(12)
and
89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope.

I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to

a
larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the

size
10
(which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and

tapering
out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with

extra
width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby

League
analogy...)!!!

The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a

garment
like
this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and

thought
it
might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned

Scissors!),
I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work

on
puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small

cap
sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it

to
the
satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether?

Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this -

I'm in a
tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-?
--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia

PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight

size
14 to
allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a

good
bit
too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and

exactly
what
we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and

making
them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#&

bodice
has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee......





  #4  
Old August 3rd 03, 10:42 PM
Kay Lancaster
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a

Size: 10 12 14
Bust: 73 76 81


Typo here? Or is this really an uneven grade (73-76 = 3cm, 76-81 = 5 cm)

Waist: 62 65 67
Hip: 76 81 87

Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm.


My personal choice would be to start with the 10, primarily because
the neck and shoulders are so strangely graded on many patterns, and
it's easier to deal with adding to side seams than it is to deal with

taking it out of the neck and upper chest, imo. If she's light framed
and clothes tend to look too big in the neck and shoulders on her, I'd
even go down to an 8, then grade out the sides and waist.

comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12)

and
89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope.


Trish, just looking at those numbers makes me uncomfortable, as that's
not a whole lot of ease. In fact, it's fairly fitted. How does *she*
like clothes to fit? Will this give her enough ease to be comfortable,
and enough ease to grow into between now and when the dress is needed?

Me, myself, and I, I'd probably trace off all three sizes onto plain
muslin (calico?)-- salvaged chunk of bedsheet that's been starched and
pressed is fine, just as long as the fabric is stable and straight--
red, blue and black ballpoint should be fine. Or anything else handy.
Cut HUGE side seam allowances.

Baste up the neck and shoulders in a 10, leave the side seams and
armscyes flappin' in the breeze at this point.
Try the muslin on her to establish if the 10 is right for her in neck
and shoulders... if not, baste it up as a 12 and try again. Then try
14 if you have to. When it looks good up to the high bust, that's the
size I'd start with. Now just plain baste up the side seams where
they fit her, toss in the sleeve you intend to use (both sleeves,
please!) check fit again, and mark your sewing lines. Take it apart,
check right/left symmetry, measure the distances between your sewing
marks and the pattern, then transfer the measurements to the pattern
piece. From there, cut your $$$$ fabric. Again, I'd leave large
seam allowances to help account for differences in drape between your
fitting garment and your "real fabric".



The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment

like
this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought

it
might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned

Scissors!),
I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on
puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap
sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to

the
satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether?


Your choice, two different effects.

One is to treat it something like an underlining... cut and sew as if the
two fabrics were one layer. Sparkle, not frouffiness.
Seems more in line with the cap sleeve to me.

Second choice: cut and sew separately, joining only at the armscye. More
fluff. Possibly more useful to balance pear shapes and big skirts, possibly
not to her taste. For even more separation of the two layers, you can cut
the organza a smidge bigger than the "real sleeve". With a cap sleeve,
I'd be tempted to make a copy pattern piece and slash from hemline to
seamline at the armscye and spread the hem edge perhaps 0.5 cm, then cut
the organza from the spread pattern. (armscye seamlength does not get
spread).

Do you know how to do a petal sleeve? How about petal or butterfly sleeves
in just the organza, then use the organza elsewhere on the garment too for
secondary accent, like "underlining style" over a sash, or a band near the
hem?


PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size

14 to
allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good

bit
too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly

what
we want


Ah, then, I should have read further... there's your answer... 10 or 12 in
the shoulders, let the rest of the torso take care of itself.

Kay



  #5  
Old August 5th 03, 12:25 AM
Trish Brown
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Kay Lancaster wrote:

On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 23:46:05 +1000, Trish Brown wrote:
friend and I will invent an armscye and sleeve (don't like the large puffy one
in the pattern) and then fit the muslin bodice with sleeves in. AFAICT, all is


Do you have a pattern with the same armscye position and a sleeve you like
better? If so, just "borrow" that one.

Kay


Nah, I don't, but I hope my friend, PDC, does! She's bringing her entire arsenal
of patterns to my place today and by this evening we will have one perfect Posh
Frokk for FHC hanging in my living room. OR ELSE!!!

PDC had the utterly *brilliant* idea of inserting pearl-beaded piping into the
waist seam and around the sweetheart neckline I plan to make. Isn't that clever?
I was worried the frokk would be too plain, but pearl piping will add just
enough je-ne-sais-que to be Very Elegant!

I feel good today! I can beat this frokk! Yeah I can! Will post happy
dancingness when it's done!
--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia
  #6  
Old August 5th 03, 01:50 PM
Trish Brown
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Latest bulletin:

Today, we drafted a new bodice and *it fits* the DD!

What we did was to slash the original pattern from the waist seam up to a point
just short of the armscye (to avoid having to re-shape the sleeve) and swung the
*inside* segment out by about a centimetre (to avoid having to reshape the side
seams). Traced the outline and cut out of calico. Didn't alter the back yoke,
since DD's back yoke is a standard size 10.

Then, we found a nice little cap sleeve pattern in a size 6 among PDC's stuff. I
spent a frenzied few minutes extrapolating that to a size 10 and we guessed it
would fit our original armscye. It did! So, we cut out the sleeve as well and
made our mock-up yoke.

It fits!!!! Hooray! So, we went ahead and cut out the Holy Satin Fabric and it's
ready to be stitched up tomorrow. Or as soon as I've recovered sufficiently to
start doing so. I nearly had the vapours today, considering the uncharted
territory we were sailing...

We took a short break and shot down to the local Purveyor of Fabrique to buy
some white pearl piping. We looked at satin ribbons and ribbon roses and silver
gauze ribbons and said '?' to ourselves. But we decided that understatedly plain
is The Go and so it'll be Just Pearl Piping and That's That. We had my homemade
minestrone for lunch and laughed all afternoon, we were so pleased with
ourselves.

Anyway things are looking up. Moral support from the group has been *so* good!
Thanks again everyone!

--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia
  #7  
Old August 5th 03, 02:58 PM
Sew-Sew Lady
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Sounds like things are working out well; congratulations!


"Trish Brown" wrote in message
...
Latest bulletin:

Today, we drafted a new bodice and *it fits* the DD!

What we did was to slash the original pattern from the waist seam up to a

point
just short of the armscye (to avoid having to re-shape the sleeve) and

swung the
*inside* segment out by about a centimetre (to avoid having to reshape the

side
seams). Traced the outline and cut out of calico. Didn't alter the back

yoke,
since DD's back yoke is a standard size 10.

Then, we found a nice little cap sleeve pattern in a size 6 among PDC's

stuff. I
spent a frenzied few minutes extrapolating that to a size 10 and we

guessed it
would fit our original armscye. It did! So, we cut out the sleeve as well

and
made our mock-up yoke.

It fits!!!! Hooray! So, we went ahead and cut out the Holy Satin Fabric

and it's
ready to be stitched up tomorrow. Or as soon as I've recovered

sufficiently to
start doing so. I nearly had the vapours today, considering the uncharted
territory we were sailing...

We took a short break and shot down to the local Purveyor of Fabrique to

buy
some white pearl piping. We looked at satin ribbons and ribbon roses and

silver
gauze ribbons and said '?' to ourselves. But we decided that understatedly

plain
is The Go and so it'll be Just Pearl Piping and That's That. We had my

homemade
minestrone for lunch and laughed all afternoon, we were so pleased with
ourselves.

Anyway things are looking up. Moral support from the group has been *so*

good!
Thanks again everyone!

--
Trish {|:-}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia



  #8  
Old August 5th 03, 06:03 PM
Marilyn
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Congratulations, Trish. That's good news. I've been watching your
bodice saga with great interest. I wish we could see the final product.
Any plans to post it on a website? It sounds like the perfect dress.
I would dearly love to do something fancy for the girls but between
hand-me-downs (barely worn) and my mother-in-law's gifts, they seem to
have more posh frocks than they will wear. I'm stuck making leggings
and school clothes.
I do have plans and fabric to recreate one of my daughter's favorite
dresses. It was just a little sleeveless princess dress in a rayon
flower print. It had a swishy skirt that tickled her (then) 5-year-old
soul. She mourned when she grew out of that dress. I have a light blue
rayon floral print that will match her eyes (the blue, not the floral
part) ;-) and a dress pattern with similar lines. I just need to make
it. I think for next summer as this one is waning quickly.
Time to sew, I think.
Marilyn in Minnesota

Trish Brown wrote:

Latest bulletin:

Today, we drafted a new bodice and *it fits* the DD!
It fits!!!! Hooray! So, we went ahead and cut out the Holy Satin Fabric and it's
ready to be stitched up tomorrow. Or as soon as I've recovered sufficiently to
start doing so. I nearly had the vapours today, considering the uncharted
territory we were sailing...


  #9  
Old August 5th 03, 10:18 PM
Emily
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

So happy for you and DD!
Emily


 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OT Four Seasons Singles Group 'N Me- very long but funny The HairyFacedOnes 'N Me Quilting 14 August 29th 03 01:19 AM
Hi, all! (long) Susanne Quilting 6 August 21st 03 01:04 PM
Long. Sewing blocks to each other Polly Esther Quilting 12 July 22nd 03 05:06 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 CraftBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.