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#1
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where are my helpers??
Hi again,
Sorry to do this, but I need some more assistance. You may not know of the brands I'm writing about but maybe you've also experienced some of the same problems. There's a German brand of soldering iron...from the ESRA Group...it's rather expensive as irons go...(at least to my budget)...there's a Turkish 'copy' that I purchased at about 1/2 the price. (I should have known, right???)... Anyway, the 150w iron that I purchased came with a copper tip...it's just not satisfactory and no one seems to know what a sal ammoniac block is (or maybe i just haven't found the right people to ask) so I opted to purchase an iron tip that's supposed to be compatible with both brands. well, guess what? it won't fit ...it's probably been made 1mm wider at the base only so that it can't be used in other irons....smart Germans...bad for me... so the question is...can i file down this 1mm to make the tip fit in my turkish copy iron?? or will it render it unusable? and while i have your undivided attention...what is an 'analog soldering iron'?? it appears to be a 'lightweight iron' with a thermostat control..(rhea stat?) it's very very expensive...over $300...it's only an 80 watt...is it worth the expenditure? the 150 watt iron i have now is just so heavy, i can't believe it. i don't see that i'll be able to do any soldering of more than 30 minutes at a time...my hand goes numb!!! i STILL want a Hexacon...but haven't had any luck finding one that works on 210-220 current. any ideas? arlene |
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#2
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where are my helpers??
Probably not. If it's a steel tip then maybe. If it's a iron clad
copper core tip then no. Why not just buy some el cheapo Turkish irons and have a go at that? Scratch wrote: Hi again, so the question is...can i file down this 1mm to make the tip fit in my turkish copy iron?? or will it render it unusable? arlene |
#3
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where are my helpers??
Arlene
wrote in message oups.com... Hi again, Sorry to do this, but I need some more assistance. You may not know of the brands I'm writing about but maybe you've also experienced some of the same problems. There's a German brand of soldering iron...from the ESRA Group...it's rather expensive as irons go...(at least to my budget)...there's a Turkish 'copy' that I purchased at about 1/2 the price. (I should have known, right???)... Anyway, the 150w iron that I purchased came with a copper tip...it's just not satisfactory and no one seems to know what a sal ammoniac block is (or maybe i just haven't found the right people to ask) so I opted to purchase an iron tip that's supposed to be compatible with both brands. well, guess what? it won't fit ...it's probably been made 1mm wider at the base only so that it can't be used in other irons....smart Germans...bad for me... so the question is...can i file down this 1mm to make the tip fit in my turkish copy iron?? or will it render it unusable? and while i have your undivided attention...what is an 'analog soldering iron'?? it appears to be a 'lightweight iron' with a thermostat control..(rhea stat?) it's very very expensive...over $300...it's only an 80 watt...is it worth the expenditure? the 150 watt iron i have now is just so heavy, i can't believe it. i don't see that i'll be able to do any soldering of more than 30 minutes at a time...my hand goes numb!!! i STILL want a Hexacon...but haven't had any luck finding one that works on 210-220 current. any ideas? If you don't like the weight of that Iron, you won't like the Hexacon any more, they are the same weight, or similar at least. And as to expense, they are now an import item to the country you are in, so there are additional duties. What are you using for flux? If you heat your iron, thoroughly coat it with flux, (yup if its liquid flux, dunk that sucker, stay below the heater,) while it is HOT, then touch the solder to it liberally and roll it in your hand, and wipe on a wet sponge as you are working with it. Should coat the copper with solder. Do not dunk again, only wipe on water wet sponge to clean. You have no protection against oxidation with that tip. |
#4
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where are my helpers??
Thanks Javahut...
okay...scrap the Hex then...i can't deal with the weight. what's an analog? and is it a lot lighter? will an 80 watt analog be sufficient? i'm using the 63/37 solder...and it's very nice...i'm pleasantly surprised!! please explain to me again what you mean with these directions for 'coating the tip'... what do you mean when you say 'stay below the heater'??? and what exactly am i supposed to 'roll in my hand'?? OUCH that's hot!!! i used the iron for less than 3 hours today and already the tip is crapola... at this rate, i'll be filing it down every time i use it and so in less than a month, i'll need a new one. i'm on a quest for a sal ammoniac block here...this is something that should be easily available...my electronics guy in town should have one, right? oh wait, this IS turkey...heaven knows where this search will take me!! please clarify your instructions...and thanks again. Ar. If you don't like the weight of that Iron, you won't like the Hexacon any more, they are the same weight, or similar at least. And as to expense, they are now an import item to the country you are in, so there are additional duties. What are you using for flux? If you heat your iron, thoroughly coat it with flux, (yup if its liquid flux, dunk that sucker, stay below the heater,) while it is HOT, then touch the solder to it liberally and roll it in your hand, and wipe on a wet sponge as you are working with it. Should coat the copper with solder. Do not dunk again, only wipe on water wet sponge to clean. You have no protection against oxidation with that tip. |
#5
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where are my helpers??
OK , but you have to read between the lines
wrote in message oups.com... Thanks Javahut... okay...scrap the Hex then...i can't deal with the weight. look for a an iron with a ceramic heater, you are not doing production work and do not need an indutrial iron, shop smart! Electronics store will work, look for an tip shank diameter of 3/8", 10-12 mm. My 60 watt Hakko gets that tip hot just fine, in 30 seconds , and is nice and light in hand weight. Se what is similar with iron clad tip... what's an analog? Not digital! Has a knob that you turn like any other variac type resistance, translates to less expensive, but not in this case , eh? and is it a lot lighter? will an 80 watt analog be sufficient? in some cases, maybe not in others, depends on the iron. i'm using the 63/37 solder... nice stuff, a bit pricier than 60/40, but if you have it, use it, may pationa differently due to alloy but it works well here too. sometimes...depends what I am doing please explain to me again what you mean with these directions for 'coating the tip'... what do you mean when you say 'stay below the heater'??? Don't dip the heater portion of the iron in the flux, don't go that deep, only the end of the tip , maybe 1"- 1 1/2" of the working end. and what exactly am i supposed to 'roll in my hand'?? OUCH that's hot!!! Man, do you need an instructor , the hand that is holding the iron turns, rotates, so that the tip gets coated i used the iron for less than 3 hours today and already the tip is crapola... Describe "crapola"? You mean it got dirty? I should hope so, that happens, drag the tip, hot, across a wet sponge, to rough for that, grab your grozing pliers and litely rotate the tip while hanging on with the pliers, lightly, and all the crude falls off, into, hopefully a bucket. at this rate, i'll be filing it down every time i use it and so in less than a month, i'll need a new one. Why are you filing, does it get that dirty that fast? either go to a less powerful iron or solder faster... the heat is building up faster than you use it. i'm on a quest for a sal ammoniac block here...this is something that should be easily available...my electronics guy in town should have one, right? Salts of Ammonia, may come in a box of loose powder. if it does, try to dissolve it in a small pan and leave it out to evaporate it will be a block, hopefully in a couple of days, ( been years since I tried that, results varied.) oh wait, this IS turkey...heaven knows where this search will take me!! please clarify your instructions...and thanks again. That is as good as it gets...... Ar. If you don't like the weight of that Iron, you won't like the Hexacon any more, they are the same weight, or similar at least. And as to expense, they are now an import item to the country you are in, so there are additional duties. What are you using for flux? If you heat your iron, thoroughly coat it with flux, (yup if its liquid flux, dunk that sucker, stay below the heater,) while it is HOT, then touch the solder to it liberally and roll it in your hand, and wipe on a wet sponge as you are working with it. Should coat the copper with solder. Do not dunk again, only wipe on water wet sponge to clean. You have no protection against oxidation with that tip. |
#6
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where are my helpers??
i STILL want a Hexacon...but haven't had any luck finding one that
works on 210-220 current. Buy the 2:1 transformer. -- Mike Firth Furnace Glassblowing Website http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/ wrote in message oups.com... Hi again, Sorry to do this, but I need some more assistance. You may not know of the brands I'm writing about but maybe you've also experienced some of the same problems. There's a German brand of soldering iron...from the ESRA Group...it's rather expensive as irons go...(at least to my budget)...there's a Turkish 'copy' that I purchased at about 1/2 the price. (I should have known, right???)... Anyway, the 150w iron that I purchased came with a copper tip...it's just not satisfactory and no one seems to know what a sal ammoniac block is (or maybe i just haven't found the right people to ask) so I opted to purchase an iron tip that's supposed to be compatible with both brands. well, guess what? it won't fit ...it's probably been made 1mm wider at the base only so that it can't be used in other irons....smart Germans...bad for me... so the question is...can i file down this 1mm to make the tip fit in my turkish copy iron?? or will it render it unusable? and while i have your undivided attention...what is an 'analog soldering iron'?? it appears to be a 'lightweight iron' with a thermostat control..(rhea stat?) it's very very expensive...over $300...it's only an 80 watt...is it worth the expenditure? the 150 watt iron i have now is just so heavy, i can't believe it. i don't see that i'll be able to do any soldering of more than 30 minutes at a time...my hand goes numb!!! i STILL want a Hexacon...but haven't had any luck finding one that works on 210-220 current. any ideas? arlene |
#7
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where are my helpers??
Hi Mike...
what is this? i don't seem to have much of a choice here...the only two irons on the market, as far as i can tell are the German models and the Turkish knock-offs. There are two analog irons..one is a 60watt, the other an 80watt. i STILL can't find a supplier outside Turkey that can give me electrical stuff that works on our current! The folks in UK don't seem to be able to help me...their plugs are so strange... are there NO SUPPLIERS in Italy, France, Spain, anywhere except UK??? they don't show up on any searches i've been doing. this is crazy! there MUST be people doing stained glass in those countries!!! so frustrating!! hopefully it will get solved one of these days. explain the 2:1 transformer...what is it? thanks, arlene Mike Firth wrote: i STILL want a Hexacon...but haven't had any luck finding one that works on 210-220 current. Buy the 2:1 transformer. |
#8
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where are my helpers??
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#9
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where are my helpers??
wrote in message oups.com... The folks in UK don't seem to be able to help me...their plugs are so strange... are there NO SUPPLIERS in Italy, France, Spain, anywhere except UK??? As long as the the iron you have (or want) will work on the Turkish voltage, (220V AC?) it's a simple matter to change the plug from the UK or US style to the Turkish configuration. Just cut the wrong plug off and put a new Turkish one on the end of the wire. Problem solved. |
#10
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where are my helpers??
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