If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Sandblasting glass
Greetings..
I have read through the old post via google search, but have ended up more confused than ever. I am looking to do some light sandblasting (decorative). Nothing more really than "frosting" the glass in patterns. I purchased the $20 "spray sand in a can", and although it is a realy mess, I was more than pleased with the results, and decided I really wanted to do a little more. So....I have determined I need a cabinet for sure to contain the mess, and we have a fairly large air compressor, and also a larger shop vac, that apparently somehow connects to the cabinet...so now my last question is the actual sanding gun. I have seen the large sanding "pots" I think they call them, that can hold 10, 20, even 40 pounds of sanding material. They are big round, and for some reason usually painted red (in case it is not called a sanding pot, you might know what I am talking about The specs usually look something like this: 10 gallon, 40 pound capacity media tank.(20"tall x 12"dia.) Spray valve with 4 nozzle sizes.(9/64", 1/8", 7/64", 3/32") Media filler funnel. 10' long hose. Water separator, pressure gauge, pop-off pressure relief valve, valves at air inlet, sand outlet, and at nozzle. Teflon wheels for portability. 0-150PSI overall capacity, 65-125PSI operating pressure, 6-25 working CFM. Overall dimensions are 33-1/2"H x 18-3/4"L x 13"W Am I on the right track? I really just want to do the basic stuff, like sanding designs onto plates, cups, etc. Not a lot of items, or heavy sanding. Thanks for your time and any thoughts. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
"Hey Rescue Lady...Can you help me get rid of my dog?" wrote in message om... Greetings.. I have read through the old post via google search, but have ended up more confused than ever. I am looking to do some light sandblasting (decorative). Nothing more really than "frosting" the glass in patterns. I purchased the $20 "spray sand in a can", and although it is a realy mess, I was more than pleased with the results, and decided I really wanted to do a little more. So....I have determined I need a cabinet for sure to contain the mess, and we have a fairly large air compressor, and also a larger shop vac, that apparently somehow connects to the cabinet...so now my last question is the actual sanding gun. I have seen the large sanding "pots" I think they call them, that can hold 10, 20, even 40 pounds of sanding material. They are big round, and for some reason usually painted red (in case it is not called a sanding pot, you might know what I am talking about The specs usually look something like this: 10 gallon, 40 pound capacity media tank.(20"tall x 12"dia.) Spray valve with 4 nozzle sizes.(9/64", 1/8", 7/64", 3/32") Media filler funnel. 10' long hose. Water separator, pressure gauge, pop-off pressure relief valve, valves at air inlet, sand outlet, and at nozzle. Teflon wheels for portability. 0-150PSI overall capacity, 65-125PSI operating pressure, 6-25 working CFM. Overall dimensions are 33-1/2"H x 18-3/4"L x 13"W Am I on the right track? I really just want to do the basic stuff, like sanding designs onto plates, cups, etc. Not a lot of items, or heavy sanding. Thanks for your time and any thoughts. The set ups you describe are usually for auto body sand blasting. They use a fairly coarse sand. A gun with to much pressure , and to coarse of sand can break the glass or cause cracking. The finish on the glass will reflect the particle size of the sand. The sand you buy for these type of guns is pretty coarse to remove paint and rust quickly. You can get sand in finer particle sizes for much softer finishes. This type is like what was used in dental offices. Just use enough pressure to pick up the sand. I use 60 to70 psi. I personally use a shaker sieve and sieve down ordinary beach sand. I first dry it in a oven. I end up with mostly a medium coarse. It's hardest to make any quantity off fine sand. I have to sieve a lot to get a little. But the price is right. Unless you are going to do major size pieces, I would just get the smallest set up. If you want to do fine detail work. (which will be tough with a bulky gun and hoses) there are smaller guns available. Good luck, Randy Hansen SC Glass Tech Scam Diego, Comi-fornia |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
You said:
Am I on the right track? I really just want to do the basic stuff, like sanding designs onto plates, cups, etc. snip You're on the right track. Here's a few additional thoughts. 1) Personally, I'd avoid sand. In addition to the very real risk of silicosis, you get a far finer, more predictable result from silicon carbide. It's more expensive by the pound but cheaper by the hour (because sand breaks down after a single use, whereas the carbide can be recovered from your cabinet and reused many times). 2) The hardware you described is generally called a pressure pot, and that's a better choice for most types of blasting than tha alternative, which is a siphon system. You will find many folks, though, who would say that a siphon would suit your needs. They're less expensive. 3) In either case, the blasting medium is passed through a tip, which will wear out over time (how much time depends on what the tip is made of, what you're shooting, the amount of pressure, etc). Check with a supplier for your options. Etchmaster has a tutorial on their site that might answer a lot of your questions. I'm in no way affiliated with the company, but I did take their etching class to get started. They sell equipment, but their cabinet systems may be larger than your interest. Anyhow, here's the info: http://www.etchmaster.com/information_site/index.htm good luck - ~s |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Hey Rescue Lady...Can you help me get rid of my dog?" wrote in message om... Greetings.. I have read through the old post via google search, but have ended up more confused than ever. I am looking to do some light sandblasting (decorative). Nothing more really than "frosting" the glass in patterns. I purchased the $20 "spray sand in a can", and although it is a realy mess, I was more than pleased with the results, and decided I really wanted to do a little more. So....I have determined I need a cabinet for sure to contain the mess, and we have a fairly large air compressor, and also a larger shop vac, that apparently somehow connects to the cabinet...so now my last question is the actual sanding gun. I have seen the large sanding "pots" I think they call them, that can hold 10, 20, even 40 pounds of sanding material. They are big round, and for some reason usually painted red (in case it is not called a sanding pot, you might know what I am talking about The specs usually look something like this: 10 gallon, 40 pound capacity media tank.(20"tall x 12"dia.) Spray valve with 4 nozzle sizes.(9/64", 1/8", 7/64", 3/32") Media filler funnel. 10' long hose. Water separator, pressure gauge, pop-off pressure relief valve, valves at air inlet, sand outlet, and at nozzle. Teflon wheels for portability. 0-150PSI overall capacity, 65-125PSI operating pressure, 6-25 working CFM. Overall dimensions are 33-1/2"H x 18-3/4"L x 13"W Am I on the right track? I really just want to do the basic stuff, like sanding designs onto plates, cups, etc. Not a lot of items, or heavy sanding. Thanks for your time and any thoughts. While this unit can work for small decorative projects, it is too bulky for doing delicate work, there is a product, tool actually, made for what you want to do. Try to find an "air eraser", I do believe that Paashe or Badger sold them, but try a search under that name. It is a small tool like an airbrush, if you use aluminum oxide, 80 to 100 grit, it will last along time, and the more you use it the softer the finish, and you can always add more new material to mix with what has been used to get a real delicate cut in glass. Of course, this stuff is used in a cabinet to reclaim what you have used, sift it upon refilling the gun. From what you are describing, this is just the ticket. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
"Steve Roberts" continued the misinformation in
message hlink.net... 1) Personally, I'd avoid sand. In addition to the very real risk of silicosis, you get a far finer, more predictable result from silicon carbide. It's more expensive by the pound but cheaper by the hour (because sand breaks down after a single use, whereas the carbide can be recovered from your cabinet and reused many times). Begin rant Ok ok....I'm just about sick of all the BS going around about silica sand. You DO NOT avoid silicosis by using sand alternatives! The glass dust generated in ANY blasting operation will give you silicosis. I've been using SAND for 32 years to etch glass, so I am obviously dead from disease by now....correct? Duh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Actually my lungs are in better shape than most city-dwellers. I wear a face .. a good mask. Now a face mask IS something to make a big noise about!!! Yeah, sand breaks down a little with each use. So? Exotics are contaminated with silica dust after the first use! So? That's the parameters....work with it. Personally, I scoop the crap right back off the floor (booth, not box) and strain it through a medium screen to use again for big areas, stripping silvering, whatever does not require a clean uniform granule size. Works great. For my detail or other critical work I scoop fresh from the $4 / 100 lbs bag of sand. I even use sand quite happily with commercial photoresists (for text only) by using lower pressure and etching easy, instead of aggressively. Yes...there ARE advantages to the exotics. They are available in, say, 200 grit and finer, if that's what you need for something. They carve faster if deep-carving is your thing. Actually, that may be the only advantage. Personally, I find carving rather limited, so I carve only when the situation demands it, and sand does carve too. I work in incredibly detailed 'surface etching' primarily and achieve effects that are impossible with carving ..... that is, when I do etching. After 32 years of etching, I try to limit the etch projects I'll even accept, because I prefer more fulfilling methods of glassworking. I don't expect my arguments to make a bit of difference to the 'exotic abrasives' crowd... but if this gets through to a newby, not already blinded by marketing dogma, then I've done my job..... thank you. In short, if you WANT to spend 10x $ for exotics, that is a personal CHOICE..... but don't wrap 'facts' with Fear, or vague performance claims, especially at the Newbie level of involvement. Sand is good, kids .....don't forget it. End rant Best regards, Jacques Bordeleau PS.... recommended unit for OP ALC Co. "Sandy-Jet" siphon gun ... models $50-100+ Eastwood Co., or many others. I'm STILL using my first one (32 years old) and did buy a second 'spare' 10 years back. ALC makes very nice Pressure Pot units too ... again, they last forever, and are reasonably priced. I haven't yet seen a siphon gun to recommend higher than the Sandy-Jet, and I've seen quite a few. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Hey Java...... the Air Eraser is from Paasche, but is too fine for almost
anything but dental casting cleanup. It requires more like 200 grit abrasive to even flow, and it wants to clog a lot. Used one, but never owned one for the above reasons. Spendy too. Still have the abrsive around here somewhere. Maybe it works better if you stop and dry your abrasive in the oven every day? (I am in a 'dry' climate, BTW). Regards, Jacques Bordeleau ================================================== == "Javahut" wrote in message ... "Hey Rescue Lady...Can you help me get rid of my dog?" wrote in message om... While this unit can work for small decorative projects, it is too bulky for doing delicate work, there is a product, tool actually, made for what you want to do. Try to find an "air eraser", I do believe that Paashe or Badger sold them, but try a search under that name. It is a small tool like an airbrush, if you use aluminum oxide, 80 to 100 grit, it will last along time, and the more you use it the softer the finish, and you can always add more new material to mix with what has been used to get a real delicate cut in glass. Of course, this stuff is used in a cabinet to reclaim what you have used, sift it upon refilling the gun. From what you are describing, this is just the ticket. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Jacques!!!! I was wondering just yesterday what had happened to you.
Hadn't seen a post from you in quite a while. Good to see you again. "Sundog" wrote in message ink.net... "Steve Roberts" continued the misinformation in message hlink.net... 1) Personally, I'd avoid sand. In addition to the very real risk of silicosis, you get a far finer, more predictable result from silicon carbide. It's more expensive by the pound but cheaper by the hour (because sand breaks down after a single use, whereas the carbide can be recovered from your cabinet and reused many times). Begin rant Ok ok....I'm just about sick of all the BS going around about silica sand. You DO NOT avoid silicosis by using sand alternatives! The glass dust generated in ANY blasting operation will give you silicosis. I've been using SAND for 32 years to etch glass, so I am obviously dead from disease by now....correct? Duh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Actually my lungs are in better shape than most city-dwellers. I wear a face .. a good mask. Now a face mask IS something to make a big noise about!!! Yeah, sand breaks down a little with each use. So? Exotics are contaminated with silica dust after the first use! So? That's the parameters....work with it. Personally, I scoop the crap right back off the floor (booth, not box) and strain it through a medium screen to use again for big areas, stripping silvering, whatever does not require a clean uniform granule size. Works great. For my detail or other critical work I scoop fresh from the $4 / 100 lbs bag of sand. I even use sand quite happily with commercial photoresists (for text only) by using lower pressure and etching easy, instead of aggressively. Yes...there ARE advantages to the exotics. They are available in, say, 200 grit and finer, if that's what you need for something. They carve faster if deep-carving is your thing. Actually, that may be the only advantage. Personally, I find carving rather limited, so I carve only when the situation demands it, and sand does carve too. I work in incredibly detailed 'surface etching' primarily and achieve effects that are impossible with carving ..... that is, when I do etching. After 32 years of etching, I try to limit the etch projects I'll even accept, because I prefer more fulfilling methods of glassworking. I don't expect my arguments to make a bit of difference to the 'exotic abrasives' crowd... but if this gets through to a newby, not already blinded by marketing dogma, then I've done my job..... thank you. In short, if you WANT to spend 10x $ for exotics, that is a personal CHOICE..... but don't wrap 'facts' with Fear, or vague performance claims, especially at the Newbie level of involvement. Sand is good, kids .....don't forget it. End rant Best regards, Jacques Bordeleau PS.... recommended unit for OP ALC Co. "Sandy-Jet" siphon gun ... models $50-100+ Eastwood Co., or many others. I'm STILL using my first one (32 years old) and did buy a second 'spare' 10 years back. ALC makes very nice Pressure Pot units too ... again, they last forever, and are reasonably priced. I haven't yet seen a siphon gun to recommend higher than the Sandy-Jet, and I've seen quite a few. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Take a look at Sandcarver.org you´ll have most of your questions answered.
You could also join the Sandcarvers Forum at Yahoo´s. It´s a fountain of wealth. Good Luck, Deet wrote in message ... Take a look at the small unit sold by Harbor Freight . I have one that I use for frosting and etching patterns . I use silica carbide grit . ( It did wear through the valve though) New valve - $20 . Ol'Fred On 24 Feb 2004 21:45:37 -0800, (Hey Rescue Lady...Can you help me get rid of my dog?) wrote: Greetings.. I have read through the old post via google search, but have ended up more confused than ever. I am looking to do some light sandblasting (decorative). Nothing more really than "frosting" the glass in patterns. I purchased the $20 "spray sand in a can", and although it is a realy mess, I was more than pleased with the results, and decided I really wanted to do a little more. So....I have determined I need a cabinet for sure to contain the mess, and we have a fairly large air compressor, and also a larger shop vac, that apparently somehow connects to the cabinet...so now my last question is the actual sanding gun. I have seen the large sanding "pots" I think they call them, that can hold 10, 20, even 40 pounds of sanding material. They are big round, and for some reason usually painted red (in case it is not called a sanding pot, you might know what I am talking about The specs usually look something like this: 10 gallon, 40 pound capacity media tank.(20"tall x 12"dia.) Spray valve with 4 nozzle sizes.(9/64", 1/8", 7/64", 3/32") Media filler funnel. 10' long hose. Water separator, pressure gauge, pop-off pressure relief valve, valves at air inlet, sand outlet, and at nozzle. Teflon wheels for portability. 0-150PSI overall capacity, 65-125PSI operating pressure, 6-25 working CFM. Overall dimensions are 33-1/2"H x 18-3/4"L x 13"W Am I on the right track? I really just want to do the basic stuff, like sanding designs onto plates, cups, etc. Not a lot of items, or heavy sanding. Thanks for your time and any thoughts. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
"Sundog" wrote in message ink.net... Hey Java...... the Air Eraser is from Paasche, but is too fine for almost anything but dental casting cleanup. It requires more like 200 grit abrasive to even flow, and it wants to clog a lot. Used one, but never owned one for the above reasons. Spendy too. Still have the abrsive around here somewhere. Maybe it works better if you stop and dry your abrasive in the oven every day? (I am in a 'dry' climate, BTW). Regards, Jacques Bordeleau While employed at Dow we had a dental blaster set up. It was so fine that I would use it like a pen and sign my work with it. We used tanks of dry Nitrogen instead of compressed air. We never had any clogging problems. One tank of Nitrogen will go a long ways since so little is used on a system that small. Randy Hansen SC Glass Tech Scam Diego, Comi-fornia |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Help from the US glass people, please? | Su/Cutworks | Beads | 21 | October 7th 04 10:14 PM |
HELP: mounting beveled glass in doors | Tim | Glass | 5 | December 29th 03 04:14 PM |
For those who want to know.. Making Beach Glass With Your Tumbler! | Harry | Beads | 7 | December 22nd 03 08:19 PM |
Large Sized Stained Glass | Greg DeBacker | Glass | 8 | August 20th 03 03:30 PM |
Old glass receipts | Matthew Spong | Glass | 0 | July 4th 03 01:06 PM |