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Seeking a sewing mentor in West Hills/Canoga Park area
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 01:39:08 -0800 (PST), Sarge
wrote: second nature) but not how to work the blasted machine. Like having a Most sewing machine stores have machine operation classes that are a very good idea to take. Even if you didn't buy the machine there, it's often possible to buy a few hours of instructional time on your machine specifically. Or see if any of the teaching members of http://www.paccprofessionals.org are near you. You may also want to consider joining ASG (http://www.asg.org) and Patternreview (http://www.patternreview.com). May I make some suggestions for you? Books: Carol Ahles: Fine Machine Sewing. Work through the basics chapters as soon as you have some experience operating a machine. Yes, it looks fussier than you probably want to do... do it anyhow. Particularly, tackle the chapters on hemming and rehemming and narrow hemming fairly early on. It'll save you a lot of time. John Giordano: The Sewing Machine Guide. More on how to choose and use various features of mechanical machines, as well as general machine care, but it's got good stuff in it. Gale Grigg Hazen: Owner's Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting Machines. Care and feeding, and how bad sewing habits make good machines work poorly, and can even damage the machine. Nancy Bednar and Joann Pugh-Gannon: Encyclopedia of Sewing Machine Techniques. Things you probably never thought of doing with a machine. Videos and DVDs: Connie Crawford: Studio Sewing Skills (consider buying the student packet, too). Covers the processes used in garment sewing, starting with threading a machine properly. A whole heck of a lot of "bad sewing machine" issues are actually misthreaded sewing machine, bad needle, wrong needle, bad thread or incorrect seam starting issues. Just for grins, take a look at: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22521551 and see if you recognize any problems you've seen before. g Islander Sewing Systems: lots of good stuff, but I'd suggest you may especially want to pay attention to her pinless sewing methods. You'll see them on most of the videos, but they're explicitly explained on the Industrial video, starting about 12 minutes in. Judy Barlup: Japanese Tailoring |
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#12
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Seeking a sewing mentor in West Hills/Canoga Park area
Sarge wrote:
Wow..thank you all for the suggestions. Kinda figured it wouldn't be that easy. Started sewing with a pretty good idea how it worked (I'm a sculptor, so patterns and assembly are second nature) but not how to work the blasted machine. Like having a road atlas in your head, but not knowing how to operate a car. Thought I might have good luck having a hands-on tutor to help me with fancy bits (an instructor vs learning to drive via the driver's manual). If it's mainly the machine, it might be worth while checking with the HomeEc teacher of the nearest highschool or maybe even middle school; s/he might be willing to spend half an hour with you acquainting you with the basics of the machine, and that might be all you need to be up and running. Another possibility would be to check for a local quilting group. Quilters love to snare new members into their craft and are very generous about sharing their skills and experience. Many quilters also sew garments, so if you attend a workshop you're likely to get more help than you ever wanted. Your name suggests that you're a guy, which is an advantage if you go to a quilting group. There aren't many guys quilting, but some of the most famous and well known quilters (and coutiers) are guys, so the ladies will probably fall all over themselves to help you out, and any other guys present will be glad to have more male reinforcement. My goal is to be able to make structured, properly tailored clothes. Got my eye on some nice waistcoats and a frock coat. Pleats and darts are basically the same thing: with a pleat you just fold the fabric over at the seam to make for instance the waist smaller, but leave the body relaxed so you have room for shoulders or hips. The pattern or maybe even the garment sketch will show whether to fold toward or away from the center. Darts do the same job, but you sew them down (and the trick is to sew from the wide area to the point and off the fabric, then tie the thread.) For collars, the two main tips I'd offer are 1) trim the points to reduce bulk so you get a nice point when you turn it right side out, 2) clip just to but not across the seam line to fit the collar to the neck opening or collar stand, and 3) grade the seams. (Okay, so I can't count. There are three kinds of people in the world: those who can count and those who can't.) In fact, grading the seams will improve almost any part of the garment where you have several layers of fabric. Grading means trimming away the excess material from the seam allowance after you've sewn it, trimming one layer (usually the innermost) very close to the stitching, the next layer not quite so close, etc., so there's not a big hump of layers of fabric all dropping off at the same point. Making structured, properly tailored clothes is a whole other ballgame that I've not yet gotten the nerve to try, but there's no reason why you can't do it. I'd practice first by making an ordinary shirt, which is going to involve basic skills with pleats, maybe a yoke, a collar and maybe a collar stand, and cuffs. Cuffs are IMO a bit easier than collars but it's a similar process, so you might want to do the cuffs first. OTOH, facing the sleeve opening can be a real b*tch, depending on the method used for that shirt, and fortunately waistcoats and jackets use a different method to face the opening and skip the cuff which just can't be as bad as a shirt sleeve opening. -- Kathy |
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