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Dorset crosswheel button instructions



 
 
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Old October 17th 05, 09:38 PM
Katherine
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Default Dorset crosswheel button instructions

Yes, that's the way the pictures look.

Katherine

spinninglilac wrote:
Yes I think they do me a little bit, but the structure of the spokes
are alot stronger than the thin cotton threads used to make the net
of the d/catcher..

Cheers....Cher


"Katherine" wrote in message
...
They remind me of dream catchers, in concept at least.

Katherine

spinninglilac wrote:
You will need time on your hands if you try them out Katherine, They
can be fiddly when you start to do them, As I rarely use them as
buttons but for decorations I use any size ring..lol Wool Silk
whatever..Cheers....Cher

"Katherine" wrote in message
...
That is really interesting. I wish I had more time! I have saved
these instructions and the page you sent earlier, and maybe I'll
get to try them next year.

Katherine

spinninglilac wrote:
Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it
out. This says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them
out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then
how to do them...Cheers...Cher

Here is a variation in the directions:
From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II:

The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread
buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in
Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles,
including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings
were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without
a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and
curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size.

To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a
similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You
will need a piece at least two yards long for each button.

The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle,
make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the
stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The
knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the
ring.

The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches
around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside
of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and
begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting
is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with
the fingers.

The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the
fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other,
wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually,
tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring
like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to
prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The
centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step
by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses
stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches
can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the
stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed
stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important!

The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around
from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each
spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin
in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat.

Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining
thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the
center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on
the button, or may be trimmed off.

End text.



 




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