[Ganoksin] [Issue #137] Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

The Ganoksin Project
S i n c e 1 9 9 6
Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Techniques
http://www.ganoksin.com

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In This Edition:


1. Fruits of Labor - Chihiro Makio Creates a Natural Beauty
2. Enameled Miniature Clock Cases
3. Tie Pins - Yesterday's Fashion Rediscovered for Today
4. 950 Palladium: Emerging White Metal of Choice
5. 950 Palladium: Making a 3-Stone Ring
6. Industrial Liquid Enamels - How to Mix Them
7. Tanzanite - A blue and purple beauty
8. Lapidary Work Safety Notes

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In This Edition of Tips From The Jeweler's Bench
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm

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Resource Page in the First "Orchid in Print" Book

Opportunity for Orchid Sponsors!

Purchase a Specially Priced Resource Page in the First "Orchid in
Print" Book:

"Making the Most of Your Flexible Shaft"
by Karen Christians

A collaboration between The Ganoksin Project and MJSA/AJM Press, Making
the Most of Your Flexible Shaft explores all aspects of choosing,
maintaining, and using the most-common tool on the jeweler's bench.

- Choosing the Proper Motor & Foot Pedal
- Choosing the Proper Handpiece
- Choosing the Proper Bur
- Cutting Drills & Discs
- Abrasives & Grinding Wheels
- Finishing
- Beyond the Bench: Tips from the Orchid Library

A full-page ad costs only $950, and will last for the lifetime of the
book. Current sponsors include Rio Grande, Foredom Electric Co., and 3M
Inc.

Make sure your customers see your company!

Distribution
Books will be marketed and sold through Ganoksin (which monthly
receives 300,000 unique targeted visitors to its Web site), the Orchid
Digest, MJSA and AJM Magazine, and the following leading consumer and
industry distributors:

- Amazon.com
- Bench Media
- Charon Kransen Arts
- Esslinger & Co.
- FDJ on Time
- Gesswein
- GIA
- House of Jewellery (Australia)
- Kassoy
- Otto Frei
- Rio Grande
- SEP Jewelry Tools of Chicago
- Stuller

"Orchid in Print " books will also be marketed at leading industry
trade shows, including JCK Las Vegas, Expo New York, and AGTA GemFair,
in conjunction with flex-shaft demonstrations incorporated into AJM'S
At the Bench Live series.

Guarantee that your customers see your name-and support The Ganoksin
Project and Orchid at the same time! See "Mechanical specs" and "About
Orchid in Print" below for more information, or contact Rich Youmans,
MJSA/AJM Press, at 1-800-444-6572, ext. 3025, .

Mechanical Specifications for Making The Most of Your Flexible Shaft

- Trim Size of Book: 8.5" by 5.5"
- Ad Size: 8" by 5"
- Word Count: Approximately 200 (with two-three photos)
- Color: Full color
- Headline: Optima font, 26 pt, 31 pt leading (if two lines)
- Text: Garamond font, 10 pt, 17 pt leading
- Logos: Send as 300 dpi EPS or TIF files.

- If Sending Text and Photos for MJSA to Design: Send text in a Word
document and photos as 300 dpi TIF or JPG images at full size. If
Sending Completed Advertorial: Send as QuarkXPress, InDesign, or High
Resolution PDF document.

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1. Fruits of Labor - Chihiro Makio Creates a Natural Beauty
By John Shanahan

One of the more difficult challenges Chihiro Makio of 314 Studio in
Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts, faced when creating her "Orange Necklace"
was getting the citrus-themed elements to sit properly on the wearer's
neck. The piece comprises roughly 30 three-dimensional elements, some
shaped like oranges and others like leaves, and deciding how to best
get them to sit in harmony with one another took some doing....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...hiro-makio.htm

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2. Enameled Miniature Clock Cases
By Erika Speel

Small ornamental clocks were among the medium priced ornamental objects
that were in huge demand in the 19th century. This gave opportunities
for enameled decorations to be added for a valuable, individualistic
appearance for every piece, even when the actual metal clock housings
were mass produced to a standard format. One of the most successful
styles was the copying in miniature of the larger, square-cased
portable clocks widely used in the 19th century and known by their
French name of pendules portative or otherwise as carriage clocks.
These had the important attribute that the movements did not lose
accuracy when these clocks were moved about. This was a breakthrough of
the period in clock design and the clock cases were made to be robust
and with swing handles....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ture-clock.htm

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3. Tie Pins - Yesterday's Fashion Rediscovered for Today
By GZ Art+Design

Like many decorative accessories, tie tacks exist because they have a
practical function. The fabric, structure, and cut of the cravats of
earlier eras meant that the arrangement had to be pinned in place. Back
in the 18th century, when fashion followed the style set by Beau
Brummel, the folds of a cravat were very important. The pin imparted an
additional elegance and color to the appearance and was often lavishly
designed....
Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/tie-pins.htm

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4. 950 Palladium: Emerging White Metal of Choice
By Mark and Lainie Mann

Of late, an increasing number of white precious metal alloys have been
introduced into the jewelry marketplace in answer to industry cries for
a true white counterpart to the ever popular yellow gold. The search
has been on for a workable white alloy that stays white, is
hypoallergenic and priced more agreeably than the often prohibitive
platinum. Alloys emerging include mixtures of 50/50 platinum and
palladium, '585 platinum' with cobalt and copper and several alloy
combinations in between. Surveys indicate consumers appreciate the
purity of 900 to 950 platinum, and would prefer the purity of a 950
palladium alloy if considering an alternative....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...dium-intro.htm

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5. 950 Palladium: Making a 3-Stone Ring
By Mark B. Mann

When heated to high heat soldering temperatures, some 950 palladium
alloys will develop a bluish-purple surface discoloration. It's easily
removed by briefly and mildly heating the piece with a neutral flame.
When palladium is heated to gold soldering temperatures, no surface
discoloration occurs....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...0palladium.htm

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6. Industrial Liquid Enamels - How to Mix Them
By Woodrow Carpenter

Industrial liquid enamel is a versatile material. It can be used as a
base coat, directly on the metal, or as subsequent coats. It can be
used to coat one side at a time, or both sides at the same time. It can
be applied by pouring, dipping, daubing with a brush, spraying, ear
syringe, and more....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...id-enamels.htm

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7. Tanzanite - A blue and purple beauty
By Arthur Anton Skuratowicz and Julie Nash

Due to tanzanite's fragile nature, the stone is very easy to abrade,
scratch, or chip during the setting process. When hammering or
tightening a tanzanite, use great care and develop a habit of regularly
checking for proper fit and metal contact with the stone as you go.
Abrasions and scratches often occur during the final prong shaping.
Therefore, shape the prongs as much as possible before setting the
stone. Once the stone is set, finish any shaping with a safety-edge
file....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena..._tanzanite.htm

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8. Lapidary Work Safety Notes
By Charles Lewton-Brain

Goldsmiths sometimes do a little rough and ready lapidary work with
emery and leather sticks or even polishing compounds on a hard buff.
Some goldsmiths, however, are lapidaries as well as jewelers. Lapidary
work involves the grinding of gem materials on a series of grinding
wheels and belt sanders, usually wet, with water cycling in the system.
Polishing compounds and pastes are made of various chemicals and
abrasives....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ary-safety.htm

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