Foredom foot pedal

Hi all,
I have a used Foredom and the foot pedal does not work well. I've had
problems before with my glass grinder foot pedal, maybe I have a heavy foot.
Is there anything I should try or do I need to order a new pedal?
Thanks,
--
Connie

C Ryman wrote:
Hi all,
I have a used Foredom and the foot pedal does not work well. I've had
problems before with my glass grinder foot pedal, maybe I have a heavy foot.
Is there anything I should try or do I need to order a new pedal?
Thanks,

What pedal do you have? If you have the old "carbon pile" type, junk it. They
are no good.

Get yourself a "Lucas" pedal. You'll never have a problem again. I have one,
with each of my motors on each of my benches. One on each of my two Foredoms,
and one on my Ottoflex.

http://www.ottofrei.com/store/custom...at=1006&page=1

And my friend Andy Cooperman's opinion of this pedal:

http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archi...5/msg00035.htm
http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archi...1/msg00516.htm

Don't look at the price. Just get one, you will not regret it.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 00:17:22 -0800, in ôõ "C Ryman"
wrote:

Hi all,
I have a used Foredom and the foot pedal does not work well. I've had
problems before with my glass grinder foot pedal, maybe I have a heavy foot.
Is there anything I should try or do I need to order a new pedal?
Thanks,

Connie,

If your old fordom is one of the old simple CC models, then perhaps the foot pedal is
the old cheap "carbon pile" type. Those are a simple design that does not last forever,
but unlike the more recent electronic controls also sold, it can be tweaked sometimes to
get a bit more life out of them. Whether it's worth doing is another question, perhaps
mostly one of budget. As Abrasha suggests, the Lucas control you can buy is so far
superior to others as to be seriously worth your attention, but of course, it's not
free. If you've the budget for one, you won't regret it. But if you're forced to try
and revive the old one, then here's the method.

These old pedals consist of a ceramic block with a hole down it, a contact at the end,
and a spring loaded contact, attached to the pedal, at the front/other end. Taking up
the distance between them, stacked in the hole, are a whole bunch of disks of graphite.
When you press on the foot pedal, you compress that stack, improving the electrical
contact between each disk, and thus the conductivity of the whole stack, and this
provides the variable resistance that changes the motor speed. over time, friction and
wear and tear and electrical arcing reduce the thickness of some or all of those disks,
making it hard to fully compress the stack enough to get full speed again. If you had
multiple bad pedals, you'd then take some disks from one, and add them to another,
increasing the thickness of the stack again. Not as good as new, since the disks are
still worn, but it works for a time. If you don't have an extra pedal to sacrifice,
then do the same, but use disks cut from sheet copper. Add a couple, reassemble the
control, and try it. If it doesn't yet give full speed, repeat. If it only gives full
speed, without the lower speed range, remove a disk to loosen the stack a little. If
the problem is just that the pedal sticks, then a bit of oil at appropriate pivots
helps. Do, in testing the pedal, be sure to fully reassemble the thing before plugging
anything in. Remember that you're working with full 110 volt current here, so play it
safe.

All in all, it's a bit messy, but it does work for a while.

Now, if the control is one of the electronic types, including the feedback types used
with series R motors, then the cures amount to replacing the inner guts of the pedal.
The parts can be ordered from fordom. If that's the situation, then look closely at the
Lucas pedal again. it's more costly initially, but they are so much more durable that
the increased initial cost will be paid back in greater life span, as well as giving you
a better pedal.

At the same time, also pay attention to the motor itself. Sometimes, an apparent bad
pedal is also due in part to a worn motor. That can be, usually, just overly worn motor
brushes. When they get worn down too much, the motors can become balky. Those parts,
fortunately, are cheap to order and easy to replace. Just look down into the end
openings when the motor is running. check for excessive sparks and arking, or an
electreial "burning" smell. then unscrew a brush and look to see how much length is
left. when replaceing, pay attention to the direction of the curve in the end, putting
it back as it was before.

Sometimes, the problem is more serious, with the commutator itself being overly worn and
grooved. Harder to see and diagnose without taking the motor apart. That portion too
can be replaced, but frankly, when the motors get that far gone, I find they don't have
much life left in bearings or other parts either. So at some point, it's time to
replace it.

Hope that helps.

Peter

Is there anything I should try or do I need to order a new pedal?

I used to tear mine apart, toss any broken discs, and cut a charcoal "plug"
to bring the thickness back to where it is supposed to be. Works for awhile.
Thats assuming it's that model.

I looked at the pedal and it is a Foredom EC-1 which is not even listed on
the Foredom web site so I guess it is pretty old. It doesn't have any
screws showing so I guess it would have to be pried open some how. Maybe I
can use my glass grinder pedal for a little while.
I have a Foredom CC - if I turn it on without the pedal it revs right up. I
don't see any sparks inside but it does smell sort of dusty. I have
downloaded the owners manual and it probably needs to be cleaned. I'm
fairly mechanically oriented but I find the motor fairly daunting looking.
My husband is definitely not handy at all so he will be no help at all.
The 7AD handpiece is suppose to be lubricated with Foredom Oil 1005 or
10010. Does anyone know an equivalent to that?

Is this the foot pedal you are talking about? It doesn't say if it is a
carbon pile or something else.
I think someone on that Orchid thread said that it was good for slow speeds.
I would like to drill some amber so a foot pedal that can do a consistent
slow speed would be great.

Lucas Foot Control #28, $57.95
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/custom...28&cat=&page=2

Thanks for all the info.
--
Connie R.

"Peter W.. Rowe," wrote in message
...
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 00:17:22 -0800, in ôõ "C Ryman"

wrote:

Hi all,
I have a used Foredom and the foot pedal does not work well. I've had
problems before with my glass grinder foot pedal, maybe I have a heavy
foot.
Is there anything I should try or do I need to order a new pedal?
Thanks,

Connie,

If your old fordom is one of the old simple CC models, then perhaps the
foot pedal is
the old cheap "carbon pile" type. Those are a simple design that does not
last forever,
but unlike the more recent electronic controls also sold, it can be
tweaked sometimes to
get a bit more life out of them. Whether it's worth doing is another
question, perhaps
mostly one of budget. As Abrasha suggests, the Lucas control you can buy
is so far
superior to others as to be seriously worth your attention, but of course,
it's not
free. If you've the budget for one, you won't regret it. But if you're
forced to try
and revive the old one, then here's the method.

These old pedals consist of a ceramic block with a hole down it, a contact
at the end,
and a spring loaded contact, attached to the pedal, at the front/other
end. Taking up
the distance between them, stacked in the hole, are a whole bunch of disks
of graphite.
When you press on the foot pedal, you compress that stack, improving the
electrical
contact between each disk, and thus the conductivity of the whole stack,
and this
provides the variable resistance that changes the motor speed. over time,
friction and
wear and tear and electrical arcing reduce the thickness of some or all of
those disks,
making it hard to fully compress the stack enough to get full speed again.
If you had
multiple bad pedals, you'd then take some disks from one, and add them to
another,
increasing the thickness of the stack again. Not as good as new, since
the disks are
still worn, but it works for a time. If you don't have an extra pedal to
sacrifice,
then do the same, but use disks cut from sheet copper. Add a couple,
reassemble the
control, and try it. If it doesn't yet give full speed, repeat. If it
only gives full
speed, without the lower speed range, remove a disk to loosen the stack a
little. If
the problem is just that the pedal sticks, then a bit of oil at
appropriate pivots
helps. Do, in testing the pedal, be sure to fully reassemble the thing
before plugging
anything in. Remember that you're working with full 110 volt current
here, so play it
safe.

All in all, it's a bit messy, but it does work for a while.

Now, if the control is one of the electronic types, including the
feedback types used
with series R motors, then the cures amount to replacing the inner guts
of the pedal.
The parts can be ordered from fordom. If that's the situation, then look
closely at the
Lucas pedal again. it's more costly initially, but they are so much more
durable that
the increased initial cost will be paid back in greater life span, as well
as giving you
a better pedal.

At the same time, also pay attention to the motor itself. Sometimes, an
apparent bad
pedal is also due in part to a worn motor. That can be, usually, just
overly worn motor
brushes. When they get worn down too much, the motors can become balky.
Those parts,
fortunately, are cheap to order and easy to replace. Just look down into
the end
openings when the motor is running. check for excessive sparks and
arking, or an
electreial "burning" smell. then unscrew a brush and look to see how much
length is
left. when replaceing, pay attention to the direction of the curve in the
end, putting
it back as it was before.

Sometimes, the problem is more serious, with the commutator itself being
overly worn and
grooved. Harder to see and diagnose without taking the motor apart. That
portion too
can be replaced, but frankly, when the motors get that far gone, I find
they don't have
much life left in bearings or other parts either. So at some point, it's
time to
replace it.

Hope that helps.

Peter

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 23:42:41 -0800, in ?? "C Ryman"
wrote:

I looked at the pedal and it is a Foredom EC-1 which is not even listed on
the Foredom web site so I guess it is pretty old.


I'm nto sure, but I think that is the carbon pile thing. Not certain of that though. A
likely case for the CC motors however. Simple enough to open it up and see, since if
it's dead now, you've nothing to loose. If, insde the thing you find any electronics
componants, transistors, resistors, and that sort of circuitry, then toss it. If it's
that ceramic block with the carbon pile, then if you like you can try rebuilding it.
The foot pedals are not generally made to be frequently dismantled, which is why no
obvious screws. It's been a while, but as I recall, there's a tab at the back edge of
the bottom which you bend out of the way, and then slide the bottom off. At least
that's my memory.

But if you want good slow speed control, then you REALLY want the Lucas. it excels at
that. The carbon controls are OK for it when new, but rebuilt, as you'rs seems to need,
they get less sensative. You might as well try it, since doing so will cost you just a
little time and effort, but I'm betting you'll not be totally satisfied with the result
if you really want good slow speed sensativity. But try it. who knows, you might get
lucky.

Peter

C Ryman wrote:
I looked at the pedal and it is a Foredom EC-1 which is not even listed on
the Foredom web site so I guess it is pretty old. It doesn't have any
screws showing so I guess it would have to be pried open some how.

That sounds like the carbon pile model alright. If I remember right, I think
you can slide the back off.

When I rebuilt one of mine many years ago, I actually opened up two of them, and
pilfered some carbon discs from one of them to increase the pile in the other.
That extended it's life by a few months.

Get yourself a Lucas.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 00:17:22 -0800, in ôõ "C Ryman"
wrote:


Hi all,
I have a used Foredom and the foot pedal does not work well. I've had
problems before with my glass grinder foot pedal, maybe I have a heavy foot.
Is there anything I should try or do I need to order a new pedal?
Thanks,


Connie,
...
These old pedals consist of a ceramic block with a hole down it, a contact at the end,
and a spring loaded contact, attached to the pedal, at the front/other end. Taking up
the distance between them, stacked in the hole, are a whole bunch of disks of graphite.


I haven't dealt with one of these on a Foredom, but I've done several on
sewing machines.
The problem was that the pedal had become more an on/off switch than a
control. I emptied out the discs (and their dust) and just dumped them
back in again and the problem was solved. My theory is that the discs
had worn to fit each other too well and when pressed together, made
very-good contact right away. By stirring them around they no longer fit
their neighbors so perfectly and that made it so that varying the
pressure on them actually made a difference, making it once again
possible to run the machine at half-speed.
--

Carl West

http://carl.west.home.comcast.net

Thanks for all the great info. and advice. I may order a Lucas foot control
after the holidays.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

I got the pedal apart this morning and it's not a carbon pile. It has some
electronics with a twisted strip of metal going into the chip board and a
regular spring for the pedal.
I cleaned it a little with air and put it back together and it is still very
balky. When it does manage to turn the motor it causes the motor or shaft
to shriek.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"Peter W.. Rowe," wrote in message
...
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 00:17:22 -0800, in ôõ "C Ryman"

wrote:


Now, if the control is one of the electronic types, including the
feedback types used
with series R motors, then the cures amount to replacing the inner guts
of the pedal.
The parts can be ordered from fordom. If that's the situation, then look
closely at the
Lucas pedal again. it's more costly initially, but they are so much more
durable that
the increased initial cost will be paid back in greater life span, as well
as giving you
a better pedal.

At the same time, also pay attention to the motor itself. Sometimes, an
apparent bad
pedal is also due in part to a worn motor. That can be, usually, just
overly worn motor
brushes. When they get worn down too much, the motors can become balky.
Those parts,
fortunately, are cheap to order and easy to replace. Just look down into
the end
openings when the motor is running. check for excessive sparks and
arking, or an
electreial "burning" smell. then unscrew a brush and look to see how much
length is
left. when replaceing, pay attention to the direction of the curve in the
end, putting
it back as it was before.

Sometimes, the problem is more serious, with the commutator itself being
overly worn and
grooved. Harder to see and diagnose without taking the motor apart. That
portion too
can be replaced, but frankly, when the motors get that far gone, I find
they don't have
much life left in bearings or other parts either. So at some point, it's
time to
replace it.

Hope that helps.

Peter