Drunkard's Path pattern question

I went to quilters cache and printed off the Drunkard's Path pattern.
http://www.quilterscache.com/D_F/Dru...PathBlock.html
Thought I would play around with the pattern to see if I can get it mastered
and then make a table runner. I didn't need the blocks as big as 6". So
following their template I cut out the 6" square but didn't add the 1/4 inch
seam allowace. I cut out material from the template I made and sewed and
made a couple of single blocks. However, they aren't square. It stands to
reason since I didn't add the 1/4" The sides with no seam allowance are
still 6" and the other 2 sides with seam are more or less 51/2"

Will adding the 1/4" seam allowance all the way around solve this?
Won't adding 1/4 everywhere still shorten the sides with a seam allowance?
Am I missing something here? Doing something wrong?

Are there any tricks to sewing convex to concave curves? I've clipped the
curves but if there's another trick.........

Ann.............Hoping her questions are clearer than mud

Hullo Ann
You are better off *copying* the pattern rather than using their
template and adapting it. Draw your square the size you want it
finished, then using a compass (or saucer/plate, whatever), draw the
quarter circle on it, in whatever position the pattern shows. Some
patterns do not have the quarter circle right up to the corners.
Add quarter inch to all sides *and* to the curved line. Then you can
trace the two parts separately.
Sewing convex to concave pieces is fiddly. No getting away from it.
But you soon get used to it. Remember to ignore the edges and match the
seam lines. Make a few marks along the curve on the template and
transfer these to the fabric. Pin at least on these marks. And, yes,
clipping of the concave one is good. Some people find clipping both
helps, but I usually only do one. You might find it helpful to place
the pieces so that the side with the inevitable 'gathers' is on the top
where you can see it and ease to avoid making pleats.
There are quite a few things to remember as you go along; but, once you
have done a few, you will be running along nicely.
Good luck - it is a good technique to master - very useful.
..
In article Yefnb.45787$zx2.34412@edtnps84, Ann
writes
I went to quilters cache and printed off the Drunkard's Path pattern.
http://www.quilterscache.com/D_F/Dru...PathBlock.html
Thought I would play around with the pattern to see if I can get it mastered
and then make a table runner. I didn't need the blocks as big as 6". So
following their template I cut out the 6" square but didn't add the 1/4 inch
seam allowace. I cut out material from the template I made and sewed and
made a couple of single blocks. However, they aren't square. It stands to
reason since I didn't add the 1/4" The sides with no seam allowance are
still 6" and the other 2 sides with seam are more or less 51/2"

Will adding the 1/4" seam allowance all the way around solve this?
Won't adding 1/4 everywhere still shorten the sides with a seam allowance?
Am I missing something here? Doing something wrong?

Are there any tricks to sewing convex to concave curves? I've clipped the
curves but if there's another trick.........

Ann.............Hoping her questions are clearer than mud




--
Best Regards
pat on the hill

Good rule of thumb he
IF you make a mistake STOP right there and undo it. Saves a LOT of
undoing if you do instead of going to the end and then having to
unstitch the whole seam.
HTH
Butterfly (once you get a rhythm going it gets easier)

Patti wrote:
Hullo Ann
You are better off *copying* the pattern rather than using their
template and adapting it. Draw your square the size you want it
finished, then using a compass (or saucer/plate, whatever), draw the
quarter circle on it, in whatever position the pattern shows. Some
patterns do not have the quarter circle right up to the corners.
Add quarter inch to all sides *and* to the curved line. Then you can
trace the two parts separately.
Sewing convex to concave pieces is fiddly. No getting away from it. But
you soon get used to it. Remember to ignore the edges and match the
seam lines. Make a few marks along the curve on the template and
transfer these to the fabric. Pin at least on these marks. And, yes,
clipping of the concave one is good. Some people find clipping both
helps, but I usually only do one. You might find it helpful to place
the pieces so that the side with the inevitable 'gathers' is on the top
where you can see it and ease to avoid making pleats.
There are quite a few things to remember as you go along; but, once you
have done a few, you will be running along nicely.
Good luck - it is a good technique to master - very useful.
.
In article Yefnb.45787$zx2.34412@edtnps84, Ann
writes

I went to quilters cache and printed off the Drunkard's Path pattern.
http://www.quilterscache.com/D_F/Dru...PathBlock.html
Thought I would play around with the pattern to see if I can get it
mastered
and then make a table runner. I didn't need the blocks as big as 6". So
following their template I cut out the 6" square but didn't add the
1/4 inch
seam allowace. I cut out material from the template I made and sewed and
made a couple of single blocks. However, they aren't square. It
stands to
reason since I didn't add the 1/4" The sides with no seam allowance are
still 6" and the other 2 sides with seam are more or less 51/2"

Will adding the 1/4" seam allowance all the way around solve this?
Won't adding 1/4 everywhere still shorten the sides with a seam
allowance?
Am I missing something here? Doing something wrong?

Are there any tricks to sewing convex to concave curves? I've clipped
the
curves but if there's another trick.........

Ann.............Hoping her questions are clearer than mud

Thanks Patti and Butterfly for your help

After I posted my questions I added the 1/4 seam allowance and did 4
individual blocks. Worked great. Very slow going but they turned out just
fine!!!
I was trying to visualize the adding 1/4 rather than "doing".

I want to make smaller blocks when I start the table runner so as to get the
best effect of the pattern, so I will have to do more practising with
different sizes.

Ann


"Butterfly" wrote in message
...
Good rule of thumb he
IF you make a mistake STOP right there and undo it. Saves a LOT of
undoing if you do instead of going to the end and then having to
unstitch the whole seam.
HTH
Butterfly (once you get a rhythm going it gets easier)

Patti wrote:
Hullo Ann
You are better off *copying* the pattern rather than using their
template and adapting it. Draw your square the size you want it
finished, then using a compass (or saucer/plate, whatever), draw the
quarter circle on it, in whatever position the pattern shows. Some
patterns do not have the quarter circle right up to the corners.
Add quarter inch to all sides *and* to the curved line. Then you can
trace the two parts separately.
Sewing convex to concave pieces is fiddly. No getting away from it. But
you soon get used to it. Remember to ignore the edges and match the
seam lines. Make a few marks along the curve on the template and
transfer these to the fabric. Pin at least on these marks. And, yes,
clipping of the concave one is good. Some people find clipping both
helps, but I usually only do one. You might find it helpful to place
the pieces so that the side with the inevitable 'gathers' is on the top
where you can see it and ease to avoid making pleats.
There are quite a few things to remember as you go along; but, once you
have done a few, you will be running along nicely.
Good luck - it is a good technique to master - very useful.
.
In article Yefnb.45787$zx2.34412@edtnps84, Ann
writes

I went to quilters cache and printed off the Drunkard's Path pattern.
http://www.quilterscache.com/D_F/Dru...PathBlock.html
Thought I would play around with the pattern to see if I can get it
mastered
and then make a table runner. I didn't need the blocks as big as 6".
So
following their template I cut out the 6" square but didn't add the
1/4 inch
seam allowace. I cut out material from the template I made and sewed
and
made a couple of single blocks. However, they aren't square. It
stands to
reason since I didn't add the 1/4" The sides with no seam allowance
are
still 6" and the other 2 sides with seam are more or less 51/2"

Will adding the 1/4" seam allowance all the way around solve this?
Won't adding 1/4 everywhere still shorten the sides with a seam
allowance?
Am I missing something here? Doing something wrong?

Are there any tricks to sewing convex to concave curves? I've clipped
the
curves but if there's another trick.........

Ann.............Hoping her questions are clearer than mud

I got rhythm I got music I got my man who could ask for anything more.......


Christina

Butterfly wrote:
Good rule of thumb he
IF you make a mistake STOP right there and undo it. Saves a LOT of
undoing if you do instead of going to the end and then having to
unstitch the whole seam.
HTH
Butterfly (once you get a rhythm going it gets easier)

Patti wrote:

Hullo Ann
You are better off *copying* the pattern rather than using their
template and adapting it. Draw your square the size you want it
finished, then using a compass (or saucer/plate, whatever), draw the
quarter circle on it, in whatever position the pattern shows. Some
patterns do not have the quarter circle right up to the corners.
Add quarter inch to all sides *and* to the curved line. Then you can
trace the two parts separately.
Sewing convex to concave pieces is fiddly. No getting away from it.
But you soon get used to it. Remember to ignore the edges and match
the seam lines. Make a few marks along the curve on the template and
transfer these to the fabric. Pin at least on these marks. And, yes,
clipping of the concave one is good. Some people find clipping both
helps, but I usually only do one. You might find it helpful to place
the pieces so that the side with the inevitable 'gathers' is on the
top where you can see it and ease to avoid making pleats.
There are quite a few things to remember as you go along; but, once
you have done a few, you will be running along nicely.
Good luck - it is a good technique to master - very useful.
.
In article Yefnb.45787$zx2.34412@edtnps84, Ann
writes

I went to quilters cache and printed off the Drunkard's Path pattern.
http://www.quilterscache.com/D_F/Dru...PathBlock.html
Thought I would play around with the pattern to see if I can get it
mastered
and then make a table runner. I didn't need the blocks as big as
6". So
following their template I cut out the 6" square but didn't add the
1/4 inch
seam allowace. I cut out material from the template I made and sewed
and
made a couple of single blocks. However, they aren't square. It
stands to
reason since I didn't add the 1/4" The sides with no seam allowance are
still 6" and the other 2 sides with seam are more or less 51/2"

Will adding the 1/4" seam allowance all the way around solve this?
Won't adding 1/4 everywhere still shorten the sides with a seam
allowance?
Am I missing something here? Doing something wrong?

Are there any tricks to sewing convex to concave curves? I've
clipped the
curves but if there's another trick.........

Ann.............Hoping her questions are clearer than mud

Maybe just a little S.E.X. g

Dee in LeRoy, NY

"nomorespam" wrote in message
...
I got rhythm I got music I got my man who could ask for anything
more.......


Christina

Butterfly wrote:
Good rule of thumb he
IF you make a mistake STOP right there and undo it. Saves a LOT of
undoing if you do instead of going to the end and then having to
unstitch the whole seam.
HTH
Butterfly (once you get a rhythm going it gets easier)

Patti wrote:

Hullo Ann
You are better off *copying* the pattern rather than using their
template and adapting it. Draw your square the size you want it
finished, then using a compass (or saucer/plate, whatever), draw the
quarter circle on it, in whatever position the pattern shows. Some
patterns do not have the quarter circle right up to the corners.
Add quarter inch to all sides *and* to the curved line. Then you can
trace the two parts separately.
Sewing convex to concave pieces is fiddly. No getting away from it.
But you soon get used to it. Remember to ignore the edges and match
the seam lines. Make a few marks along the curve on the template and
transfer these to the fabric. Pin at least on these marks. And, yes,
clipping of the concave one is good. Some people find clipping both
helps, but I usually only do one. You might find it helpful to place
the pieces so that the side with the inevitable 'gathers' is on the
top where you can see it and ease to avoid making pleats.
There are quite a few things to remember as you go along; but, once
you have done a few, you will be running along nicely.
Good luck - it is a good technique to master - very useful.
.
In article Yefnb.45787$zx2.34412@edtnps84, Ann
writes

I went to quilters cache and printed off the Drunkard's Path pattern.
http://www.quilterscache.com/D_F/Dru...PathBlock.html
Thought I would play around with the pattern to see if I can get it
mastered
and then make a table runner. I didn't need the blocks as big as
6". So
following their template I cut out the 6" square but didn't add the
1/4 inch
seam allowace. I cut out material from the template I made and sewed
and
made a couple of single blocks. However, they aren't square. It
stands to
reason since I didn't add the 1/4" The sides with no seam allowance
are
still 6" and the other 2 sides with seam are more or less 51/2"

Will adding the 1/4" seam allowance all the way around solve this?
Won't adding 1/4 everywhere still shorten the sides with a seam
allowance?
Am I missing something here? Doing something wrong?

Are there any tricks to sewing convex to concave curves? I've
clipped the
curves but if there's another trick.........

Ann.............Hoping her questions are clearer than mud










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Great response Christina!
..
In article , nomorespam
writes
I got rhythm I got music I got my man who could ask for anything more.......


Christina

Butterfly wrote:
Good rule of thumb he
IF you make a mistake STOP right there and undo it. Saves a LOT of
undoing if you do instead of going to the end and then having to
unstitch the whole seam.
HTH
Butterfly (once you get a rhythm going it gets easier)
--
Best Regards
pat on the hill