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#1
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bend in cord elastic
When I put flat elastic into a casing, I sew the ends together, but when I use cord elastic, I just tie a knot. The last time I had to open a casing because the knot had come untied, I said well, duh! -- a square knot is a *binding knot*; I should have been using a bend. My first impulse is to use a sheet bend, mainly because I can tie one without consulting a book and sometimes don't even think about the rabbit and the tree*, partly because the sheet bend is also called "weaver's knot", which suggests that it's particularly suitable for textiles. The only other bend that I know about is the carrick bend, which I reject because (a) I don't know how to tie one (b) its main virtue is that it tightens correctly under strain, so it's safe to tie in ropes too thick to tighten by hand (c) both ends stick out at right angles to the standing parts. I'm slightly unhappy with the sheet bend because one end sticks out. So is there a better bend for a cord that rubs back and forth inside a tube? Since weavers tie sheet bends in warp threads that get rubbed hundreds of times before they get woven in, I suspect that it will turn out the be the winner -- but I do like to have a better reason than "It's the only knot I know." footnote: * It would be much better to teach children by pointing out the way the curves interlace and hold each other than by distracting them with mnemonics. Takes more time to explain, but it would stick better. Joy Beeson -- joy beeson at comcast dot net http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange The above message is a Usenet post. I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site. |
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#2
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bend in cord elastic
On Jun 6, 6:58*pm, Joy Beeson wrote:
When I put flat elastic into a casing, I sew the ends together, but when I use cord elastic, I just tie a knot. * The last time I had to open a casing because the knot had come untied, I said well, duh! -- a square knot is a *binding knot*; I should have been using a bend. * My first impulse is to use a sheet bend, mainly because I can tie one without consulting a book and sometimes don't even think about the rabbit and the tree*, partly because the sheet bend is also called "weaver's knot", which suggests that it's particularly suitable for textiles. * The only other bend that I know about is the carrick bend, which I reject because (a) I don't know how to tie one (b) its main virtue is that it tightens correctly under strain, so it's safe to tie in ropes too thick to tighten by hand (c) both ends stick out at right angles to the standing parts. *I'm slightly unhappy with the sheet bend because one end sticks out. * So is there a better bend for a cord that rubs back and forth inside a tube? *Since weavers tie sheet bends in warp threads that get rubbed hundreds of times before they get woven in, I suspect that it will turn out the be the winner -- but I do like to have a better reason than "It's the only knot I know." * Tie a Zeppelin Bend, set the bend firmly, and trim off the ends. You could also seize the ends down if you want, but I think you may be overly concerned about it. http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/Zeppelin.html Mnemonicized for your convenience. |
#4
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bend in cord elastic
On Jun 6, 9:58*pm, Joy Beeson wrote:
When I put flat elastic into a casing, I sew the ends together, but when I use cord elastic, I just tie a knot. * The last time I had to open a casing because the knot had come untied, I said well, duh! -- a square knot is a *binding knot*; I should have been using a bend. * My first impulse is to use a sheet bend, mainly because I can tie one without consulting a book and sometimes don't even think about the rabbit and the tree*, partly because the sheet bend is also called "weaver's knot", which suggests that it's particularly suitable for textiles. * The only other bend that I know about is the carrick bend, which I reject because (a) I don't know how to tie one (b) its main virtue is that it tightens correctly under strain, so it's safe to tie in ropes too thick to tighten by hand (c) both ends stick out at right angles to the standing parts. *I'm slightly unhappy with the sheet bend because one end sticks out. * So is there a better bend for a cord that rubs back and forth inside a tube? *Since weavers tie sheet bends in warp threads that get rubbed hundreds of times before they get woven in, I suspect that it will turn out the be the winner -- but I do like to have a better reason than "It's the only knot I know." * footnote: * * *It would be much better to teach children by pointing out the way the curves interlace and hold each other than by distracting them with mnemonics. *Takes more time to explain, but it would stick better. Joy Beeson -- joy beeson at comcast dot nethttp://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/-- sewinghttp://n3f.home.comcast.net/-- Writers' Exchange The above message is a Usenet post. I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site. You could try a "water knot", basically an overhand knot in both strands, but with the strands coming from opposite directions into the knot, or a "fisherman's knot", two overhand knots that slide together and lock. Good luck, Ford Walton |
#5
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bend in cord elastic
On Jun 6, 9:58*pm, Joy Beeson wrote:
... when I use cord elastic, I just tie a knot. * The last time I had to open a casing because the knot had come untied, I said well, duh! -- a square knot is a *binding knot*; I should have been using a bend. This is utter rubbish: the Square/Reef ('squaREef' in my shorthand ) knot is quite a *bend* (in the sense Ashley et al. have tried to force a meaning) -- it is a knot that joins two ends of rope(s). Plain & simple and no point in trying denying. Whether it's the **right** knot for the job is a separate issue; it is THE right *bend* for tying together broken rubber bands (pull on all parts to set), possibly because of the setting process for it. It sounds as though for your circumstance/materials you should try the Fisherman's KNOT (nb: NOT "bend", which is a *hitch*, as per Ashley and before him) -- the Overhands around each other's S.Parts that are pulled together to lock. This knot should be able to be set well compact and with a good profile for the sort of rubbing you describe; it is the "bend" of choice in commercial-fishing lines because of its simplicity, general strength, good resistance to abrasion (the neatly parallel parts make a protective surface), and alignment of the ends along the S.Parts where they can be secured by "hog rings" or tape or seizing. (FYI, some testing found that this knot can slip at high loads in nylon kernmantle dynamic & low-elongation ropes. FYI) You should tighten each Overhand component separately to try to get the sort of drastic size/diameter reduction such elastic material will give into the component before then drawing them snug together in the knot, which should preserve their tightness. The suggested Ring Bend / traced Overhand knot / Water knot has the same form, but draws up with a difference depending on which ends are loaded (i.e., those leading to extreme ends of knot body or those turning interior to this, which will give a slightly better (more even) shape). Otherwise, which is less bulky, return to the squaREef but this time put special emphasis on setting it tight (pull on all ends) & well, and then secure the ends with seizing (good excuse to employ a long-lost technique, no?). The beauty of this joint is its small size. My first impulse is to use a sheet bend, I'd expect you'll have no luck here -- it's not secure, not a jamming knot. And it's one end sticks out rather perpendicularly. The only other bend that I know about is the carrick bend, which I reject because (a) I don't know how to tie one But that should be at most a couple e-clicks away from you! that it tightens correctly under strain, so it's safe to tie in ropes too thick to tighten by hand This sounds like nonsense / speculation to me: a great many big ropes are actually much more conducive to bending (i.e., folding) than say "static" (low-elongation) caving ropes, which stubbornly resist curving around 1 diameter and even 2(!). Moreover, one really wants to ensure a proper setting of the knot and not leave to the vagaries of capsizing by loading -- which might see an end pull free or too nearly so. Finally, when tied in the very stiff, hard-laid ropes of those Alaskan crabbers shown on The Deadliest Catch, it is tied in a different manner than is shown by most sources (which are largely echoes of each other): one side is folded into a sort of Crossing-Knot (Munter Hitch) form, and then the other end is rove through this accordingly (though this allows for easy goofs until practised & learned). But you're right re this knot's not meeting your shape needs. * *It would be much better to teach children by pointing out the way the curves interlace and hold each other than by distracting them with mnemonics. *Takes more time to explain, but it would stick better. No need for this to be either/or: do both, the one ensuring correct tying of the knot, the other giving fuller understanding of it. --dl* ==== |
#6
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bend in cord elastic
On Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:37:41 -0400, wrote:
I haven't access to any post on this subject prior to this one (10 July, 2009), so I am wondering if the Zeppelin bend was considered in this thread? When I finished my new knickers, I tied a Zeppelin bend in the elastic of one knee and a sheet bend in the elastic of the other. I'll report back if one or the other fails. I think I like the sheet bend better, as it's a trifle smaller. But I'm glad to have learned the Zeppelin bend. (Not that I can tie it without referring to my print-out from Notable Knots.) (Notable Knots is a splendid Web site, by the way. I must get around to linking to it on the _Rough Sewing_ website.) Joy Beeson -- joy beeson at comcast dot net http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange The above message is a Usenet post. I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site. |
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