Designer Must-See:Kleibacker online/narrow bias tubes

I started off at Thread's mag, reading 'Charles Kleibacker:
Celebrating an American Original', then segued into a 'showing' of his
designs at www.kent.edu/fashion.
Sort of a retrospective of a show which was held at the Page Palmer
Gallery from early 2001 to 2002, titled: 'Charles Kleibacker: Master of
Bias'.
For those of us who never or rarely get to drool over master works at
showings and museums, this is a decent representation, although I would
have liked more close-up shots.
The designs are fabulous, the execution so flawless, (most of it pure
hand work), it makes me want to drop to my knees out of respect to such
a master, and knock my forehead on the floor three times. I'm in awe.
That's not the sort of irreverence you have come to expect from me,
though, so, without further ado, here are a few salient remarks.
I have read, many times, that good design is timeless, and the
pictures of Kleibacker's work proves it. And, be sure to check out the
sidebar articles, too, featuring other designers--yes, good design is
timeless--OK, except for the Joan Crawford outfits...(NO, no, put the
hangar away, I'll be good, Mommy!) Intimidation is the name of the game
here.
Back to Kleibacker: cut and drape is flawless, yet I cannot
imagine wearing a brown or chestnut colored evening gown ('74 silk
ottoman and '90's silk chestnut jersey). These look like they were outed
from Diana Vreeland's closet.
Check out the two brilliantly red outfits. One is red Qiana*. (sp?)
All they need is a huge gold cross around the models necks. Looks
uncomfortably like Mr K. was rootling in the Bishop's cupboards, or some
minor prelate is running around in his BVDs.
To entice: necklines fit beautifully, bodices are glove-smooth. And
check out the tiny shoulder straps--it can be done, so I'll have to go
back to the drawing board on this one. I'm assuming they are bias. Who
was asking about making very narrow straps?
Cea

Cea, I've had the great fortune to see Charles Kliebacker in person many times,
and his work at close range. He's a brilliant engineer, and has an incredible
grasp of how to flatter the female form. I love the fluidity of his designs.

The red "bishop" getup you mention is apparently a cloak. But can you imagine
the impracticality of pulling something over your head when you arrive at your
destination? I much prefer another wrap I saw of his--it was made of plaid
dupioni. Wish I could remember how it was made. I'd hoped there would be a
photo on the website, but no luck.

One of the secrets of sewing bias that Charles shares is to pull the living
daylights out of it as you sew it (but not before, which is very important).
That way, the stretch is built into the stitch, and won't pop, while still
allowing the fabric to move and shift with the body. He also does this with the
bias tubes, and you can make them extremely narrow this way, but it takes
practice.

Claire Shaeffer has directions on how to make bias tubes, combining Charles'
technique and other designers' methods, in her Couture Sewing book, if I
remember correctly. She often demonstrates this technique in her hands-on
classes.

Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati