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Glaze Book for Dummies?



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 11th 03, 08:08 PM
GaSeku
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Default Glaze Book for Dummies?

Is there something similar to a Glaze Book for Dummies? I am not able to find a
class that specifically addresses glazes and very much want to learn more about
making them. I am curious about underglazing right now but know precious little
about the how- to aspect. And Mason stains? What are they used for
specifically? See why I need a book for Dummies?

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  #2  
Old September 12th 03, 02:12 AM
Clayslinger
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If you are doing cone6 I would suggest Ron Roy and John Hesselbreth (SP?)
Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book. It is available from their web site as well as
from pottery suppliers. I tells you in plain English what the parts of the
glaze are and what they do. Then there are several recipes included to start
from.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Penni Stoddart
of Penelope's Pots
Full Time Education Assistant,
Part Time Potter

Sometimes we just need to remember what the rules of life
really are... You need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and
shouldn't, use the duct tape.



"GaSeku" wrote in message
...
Is there something similar to a Glaze Book for Dummies? I am not able to

find a
class that specifically addresses glazes and very much want to learn more

about
making them. I am curious about underglazing right now but know precious

little
about the how- to aspect. And Mason stains? What are they used for
specifically? See why I need a book for Dummies?



  #4  
Old September 12th 03, 01:39 PM
GaSeku
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Default

I just bought that book, but haven't seen them address stains or much at all on
underglazing. Of course, I've been known to overlook things before. I think I
am feeling so in the dark because I am a very visual person and would greatly
benefit from a class covering all different ways of glazing. I was told that
there aren't any classes because it's really all so simple. That REALLY makes
me feel D-U-M-B.
  #5  
Old September 12th 03, 01:39 PM
GaSeku
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Thank you. I'll check it out.
  #7  
Old September 12th 03, 08:16 PM
GaSeku
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Thank you, Deg. I just purchased the Rhodes/Hopper book and am looking through
an old Chappell book. Things are beginning to make some sense. I know things
will begin to fall into place once I get a fair foundation of knowledge built.

I have a question on using oxides as a stain. Say I want to paint a simple
design on a mug. If I understand correctly, I can mix red oxide, for example,
with enough water to make a paintable paste and then apply my design, right?
If I am not heavy handed, I shouldn't have a problem with it running, right?
Once it's dry I could then apply a clear or transparent glaze over all? With
answers to these question I think I may actually be off and runnin'! Then I'll
play with a white base and different colorants.
Thanks so your help and for not laughing at my total ignorance.
  #8  
Old September 12th 03, 09:59 PM
Dewitt
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On 12 Sep 2003 19:16:23 GMT, (GaSeku) wrote:

I have a question on using oxides as a stain. Say I want to paint a simple
design on a mug. If I understand correctly, I can mix red oxide, for example,
with enough water to make a paintable paste and then apply my design, right?
If I am not heavy handed, I shouldn't have a problem with it running, right?
Once it's dry I could then apply a clear or transparent glaze over all? With
answers to these question I think I may actually be off and runnin'! Then I'll
play with a white base and different colorants.
Thanks so your help and for not laughing at my total ignorance.


My guess is that if you paint with a paste of straight iron oxide and
water, you won't get the effect you want - but maybe you will. Give
it a try. Sometimes glazes won't adhere properly to heavy oxide
coatings and will "crawl". Also try mixing a tablespoon of iron oxide
with maybe 1/4 cup of slip made from the clay you are using. And try
a fairly watery mix of iron oxide and water. And try mixing a
tablespoon of iron oxide into 1/4 cup of the glaze you are going to
cover it all with. Some oxides (especially cobalt) are stronger (and
more expensive) than others, so smaller amounts would be appropriate.
For example, 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon of cobalt would probably be sufficent
to color a 1/4 cup of your clear glaze a rich blue. A teaspoon of
copper carb would likely give you a strong green.

You haven't mentioned what cone or atmosphere you are firing with, but
iron oxide can act as a flux and make your glaze more fluid,
especially in a reduction atmosphere (i.e. a fuel fired kiln). If
you're concerned about glaze runs, you can always fire pieces on a
pancake of clay to protect your kiln shelves.

deg
  #9  
Old September 13th 03, 12:09 AM
Steve Mills
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If you can find a copy, The Potters' Pallet is a rather useful book in
the area you are addressing. one of the authors is named Ogden. Can't
remember any more; I lent my copy and guess what: it's vanished!

Steve


In article , GaSeku
writes
I just bought that book, but haven't seen them address stains or much at all on
underglazing. Of course, I've been known to overlook things before. I think I
am feeling so in the dark because I am a very visual person and would greatly
benefit from a class covering all different ways of glazing. I was told that
there aren't any classes because it's really all so simple. That REALLY makes
me feel D-U-M-B.


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
  #10  
Old September 13th 03, 12:15 AM
GaSeku
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Default

Thank you Steve. I'll keep my eyes open for it. Sorry your "vanished". I never
loan my books anymore. My sister gave me a bookmark that says, "Neither a
borrower nor a lender be"!
 




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