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#1
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removig plates from bats
Hello All,
I really like your group. I've learned much from the Q&As. I am a new potter so I have a lot to learn. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove a plate from the bat after you throw it? Do you leave it til its dry? If so, how do you trim a foot ring? I have plastic bats and compressed wood bats. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Sandi |
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#2
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It is a paste floor wax, I apply it with a piece of cloth that is not too
soft else it absorbs too much of the wax, make sure your bat is clean of any clay. I glue the foam to the bat with woodglue. It usually sticks well and you can clean it off when the foam needs to be replaced. "sandi" wrote in message et... Thank you Adrienne for the advice on removing plates from the bat. Do you use liquid or paste floor wax? Do you glue the foam to a bat to trim your plates? Thanks again. Sandi "Adrienne Kriel" wrote in message ... Hallo, Plates are ususally tricky seeing that an s-crack can appear if the plate is left on the bat for to long before cutting it because of the clay drying and not releasing from the bat. Some people cut their plates imediately after throwing and then again when taking it of the bat, usually at leatherhard stage. However, I have a very peculiar way of decorating my raw plates and needed a sturdy straight base so that I can work on the surface and I need to work the surface before I can turn the foot ring. So I do the following, I use floor wax on my bats before throwing the plate (just a thin layer else your clay won't stick to the bat), the plate releases from the bat by leatherhard stage on its own no cutting involved and voila no ending up with an uneven base to turn. As far as turning is concerned, I cut out a piece of 5mm thick sponge to the size of one of my bats and glued it to the surface this serves as a turning bat and thuss when turning the plate the rim is protected. I turn 2 footrings, if you are using a high firing clay it is better to have a smaller footring as well. Some large plates slumps at high temperatures, or you can just leave a little bump. I find it easier to first take of all the excess clay until I get to the required thickness, leave about 1cm so you have enough clay for the footring, it works in the same way as turning a footring on a bowl, make sure your footring starts where your plates start to go level on the surface. After turning away the excess clay it is much easier to level the footring if needed, instead of the whole base. Good Luck Adrienne "john n va" wrote in message et... Hello All, I really like your group. I've learned much from the Q&As. I am a new potter so I have a lot to learn. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove a plate from the bat after you throw it? Do you leave it til its dry? If so, how do you trim a foot ring? I have plastic bats and compressed wood bats. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Sandi |
#3
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"john n va" wrote in message et... Hello All, I really like your group. I've learned much from the Q&As. I am a new potter so I have a lot to learn. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove a plate from the bat after you throw it? Do you leave it til its dry? If so, how do you trim a foot ring? I have plastic bats and compressed wood bats. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Sandi Sandi: You can do one of two things: Use a wire tool to get between the piece and the bat, and saw through to separate it, or you can let it get leather hard and try to flex the (plastic) bat to remove it. Compressed wood bats are not good for leaving wet clay on to dry. They tend to absorb moisture and swell, which ruins them. Some of us use plaster bats, so the plate can just sit there and the plaster will help absorb the moisture. Then, the plate just pops off the bat. Once the plate is leather hard, you can flip it over onto a different bat, then center and hold it in place with a "Griffen Grip" or some wads of clay, and trim your foot ring on the wheel (slowly at first, don't go too deep :) Have you tried throwing the plate face side DOWN and forming the ring as you work? That way, when leather hard you can flip it over, secure it to another bat as above, and only have to use a stainless rib to smooth the surface of the plate. Some find that easier. Good Luck! Wayne in Key West |
#4
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Thanks for the information Wayne in Key West. I have heard of plaster bats
but where can I purchase some? Thanks again, Sandi "psci_kw" wrote in message .. . "john n va" wrote in message et... Hello All, I really like your group. I've learned much from the Q&As. I am a new potter so I have a lot to learn. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove a plate from the bat after you throw it? Do you leave it til its dry? If so, how do you trim a foot ring? I have plastic bats and compressed wood bats. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Sandi Sandi: You can do one of two things: Use a wire tool to get between the piece and the bat, and saw through to separate it, or you can let it get leather hard and try to flex the (plastic) bat to remove it. Compressed wood bats are not good for leaving wet clay on to dry. They tend to absorb moisture and swell, which ruins them. Some of us use plaster bats, so the plate can just sit there and the plaster will help absorb the moisture. Then, the plate just pops off the bat. Once the plate is leather hard, you can flip it over onto a different bat, then center and hold it in place with a "Griffen Grip" or some wads of clay, and trim your foot ring on the wheel (slowly at first, don't go too deep :) Have you tried throwing the plate face side DOWN and forming the ring as you work? That way, when leather hard you can flip it over, secure it to another bat as above, and only have to use a stainless rib to smooth the surface of the plate. Some find that easier. Good Luck! Wayne in Key West |
#5
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"sandi" wrote in message et... Thanks for the information Wayne in Key West. I have heard of plaster bats but where can I purchase some? Thanks again, Sandi Sandi: Whenever possible, I like to order right from the source. I recently made a switch from plaster bats (which I made myself) to Hydro-bats. They seem to be stronger. Hopefully, they will be less prone to damage from tools, chipping, etc. You can buy them he http://www.hydrobat.com/ By the way, I have no connection to this company other than being a customer. Best, Wayne in Key West |
#6
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Hi all,
I make bats from hardy backer board and it acts like plaster bats and more durable plus no plaster pop outs is a piece of plaster gets in the clay. I just leave them until the piece pops off. At that time, it may still need to dry a bit before trimming. If you would like to try it or see how it's done, go here, and click on 66 cent bats. http://tonyolsen.com/up/ Take care, Stay muddy! Tony (Galveston TX) -- Hello All, I really like your group. I've learned much from the Q&As. I am a new potter so I have a lot to learn. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove a plate from the bat after you throw it? Do you leave it til its dry? If so, how do you trim a foot ring? I have plastic bats and compressed wood bats. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Sandi |
#7
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In article ,
psci_kw wrote: Have you tried throwing the plate face side DOWN and forming the ring as you work? That way, when leather hard you can flip it over, secure it to another bat as above, and only have to use a stainless rib to smooth the surface of the plate. Some find that easier. Good Luck! Wayne in Key West Wayne, Can you explain this a little further? It sounds interesting, but I can't quite picture how it would work. How would you get the concave inside of the plate, and the rim, if you throw it face side down? Do you trim the face side intead of the underside? Do you throw the plate in sections by attaching a ring to the top surface after doing the underside and shaping it then? (I've done a large platter that way.) Deb R. |
#8
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"Deborah M Riel" wrote in message ... In article , psci_kw wrote: Have you tried throwing the plate face side DOWN and forming the ring as you work? That way, when leather hard you can flip it over, secure it to another bat as above, and only have to use a stainless rib to smooth the surface of the plate. Some find that easier. Good Luck! Wayne in Key West Wayne, Can you explain this a little further? It sounds interesting, but I can't quite picture how it would work. How would you get the concave inside of the plate, and the rim, if you throw it face side down? By trimming afterward. All you are really creating is the bottom thickness and the foot ring(s) and the outside (bottom side of the plate) bevel for the edge when you throw. Since the bevel (being upside down) is now "falling" you needn't worry about it drooping, which is why throwing a plate upside down is an attractive method for more inexperienced throwers. Do you trim the face side intead of the underside? Yes. That is when you create any concavity you require. Remember that the edge bevel and the foot are already done, so only a rib and sponge is required. Of course, if you want to get fancy you can. And you can use a sponge or piece of chamois to true and cleanup the rim. Remember too that you are working with leather hard clay at this point. Might need a bit of moisture, but it's pretty tough stuff. Do you throw the plate in sections by attaching a ring to the top surface after doing the underside and shaping it then? (I've done a large platter that way.) I've never tried that. I've seen other potters use a coil ring for the footring, but not for the edge. Sounds like i have a bit of experimenting to do! Thanks for suggesting that! :) I tend to throw everything all at once, the trick of course being that you are not going to throw a 36 inch platter on a 12 inch bat. Use a bat at least the size of the plate bottom. If you are going for an extended bevel on the edge of the plate (say, more than 2 inches, use a bat the size of the outside of the plate, or even larger. If you are trimming slowly enough, you can actually rest the handle of the tool on the edge of the bat to steady it while you shape the bevel. No sense in having the clay (or your tools) wobbling about in space while you're trying to shape the bevel and rim. Throwing using a larger bat than the plate size means that basically, an inexperienced thrower need only really center the clay, and flatten and compress it. The bevel for the outside edge is created easily, as its resting against the bat. No worries about having to open or pull the clay. Once the clay is leather hard, then it gets flipped and trimmed. Leather hard is much more forgiving for the beginner. Hope that helps! Wayne in Key West |
#9
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Thanks for clarifying this. I can get a better picture of what you
mean, and I might just give it a try. I have a little bit of trouble with the idea of just using a rib and sponge on leather hard clay--can you really get enough of a concave surface to your plate? I would think you'd need a trimming tool to accomplish that, or you'd have a very flat surface... Actually, though, I can see where you might be able to get some interesting surface effects by trimming the top surface with a trimming tool. Easy...rub the sponge over the surface with the wheel spinning, then carve with the stainless rib. you can repeat as often as you like, but that way you are not gouging into the clay with a trimming tool (newbies have trouble with gauging depth, and the procedure was designed for newbies, after all) We learned a way to throw large plates or serving bowls by throwing a flat disk (fairly substantial), then attaching a ring to the top surface to pull up the sides and rim. After cutting the whole thing off the bat and letting it set up a bit (it was summer, so they sat out in the sun for awhile), it was turned over and a foot ring attached and thrown. This was a quick and fairly easy way to make a large serving-sized plate or bowl (depending on how large the top ring was, and how high you pulled it up while throwing the ring). It helps while drying a plate this size to put newspaper under, and loose plastic over. Give the flat surface of the plate a spritz every now and then to keep it from bowing up as the foot and sides contract. There--now we both can play with a new technique! Thanks, Deb, I will definitely try that. I can imagine HUGE, Voulkos-like forms coming...gods help me :) I have no room NOW! Wayne |
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