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#1
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Hanging miniature wallpaper
Hi,
One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just can't see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it is not original but it is a step by step documentation. http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm Pat Pat Connelly pjjconnelly at ameritech dot net www.fnadoc.com |
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#2
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Pat wrote:
Hi, One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just can't see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it is not original but it is a step by step documentation. http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm Thanks for the info., great job! I must have small hands, no problem with wallpaper (I use a thick starch solution long unused in our cellar) and don't install windows until the papering is done, cutting out the window opening is easier then for me since no measurements are needed, I just run a razor over the paper where it covers the opening. |
#3
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"Dan Wenz" wrote in message ... Pat wrote: Hi, One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just can't see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it is not original but it is a step by step documentation. http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm Thanks for the info., great job! I must have small hands, no problem with wallpaper (I use a thick starch solution long unused in our cellar) and don't install windows until the papering is done, cutting out the window opening is easier then for me since no measurements are needed, I just run a razor over the paper where it covers the opening. Dan, I would paper first also. This dollhouse was "rescued" from my barn where there was significant rodent damage. The windows were already in place and I had to strip the old wallpaper. You are certainly more dexterous than I am. I really have trouble working within the small rooms. I would paper the walls as the dollhouse is being built but the decision making that early in the game seems to be impossible. What starch solution do you use to hang the paper? I am not sure about the long term stability of my glue stick. Pat |
#4
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I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for
floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern, but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to do, but often none at all. I use contact cement on both serfaces. walls are easier that floors, cause gravity helps. for floors I put the patern doen on the dry contact cement, and the carpet or tile on top of that. nothing sticks to anything. I amke sure everything is lined up and slide the pattern out. works like a charm every time. Pat wrote: Hi, One of the most frustrating tasks for me is wallpapering assembled dollhouses. The space is too small, my hands are too big, and I just can't see. I have documented a better way for me on my website. I am sure it is not original but it is a step by step documentation. http://www.fnadoc.com/WoodWorking/Mi...aperMethod.htm Pat Pat Connelly pjjconnelly at ameritech dot net www.fnadoc.com |
#5
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On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 08:09:28 -0400, Dan Wenz
wrote: and don't install windows until the papering is done, cutting out the window opening is easier then for me since no measurements are needed, I just run a razor over the paper where it covers the opening. And don't fasten windows, doors and stairs any more solidly than is required to hold them in place under appropriately scaled loadings. This makes future redecorating projects much more enjoyable. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#6
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On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at
boeing.com" wrote: I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern, but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to do, but often none at all. I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me how I know!) Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#7
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"Gerald Miller" wrote in message ... On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at boeing.com" wrote: I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern, but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to do, but often none at all. I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me how I know!) Gerry :-)} London, Canada I never thought about making a pattern for a wall. Floors yes. I might give it a try. My experience with contact cement is limited but I definitely will experiment with it. And I have more than once thought how nice it would be if my doors and windows would slide out for redecorating. The idea of needing redecorating never occurred to me the first time around. My current project is a copy of my home. I have spend an inordinate amount of time on a modular design which may or may not completely work as hoped. In the end, EVERYTHING should completely disassemble from the finished project if needed. Maybe wishful thinking.:-) Pat |
#8
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If you are careful, the windows and dorrs can be fit to an exact size so
that they just slide into the slot (from the inside) and are not glued. You do that by making them a fraction oversize and trim them with rough sandpaper. it takes a while and you need to mark any that are identical cause they usually will only fit into the hole that they were trimmed for. Pat wrote: "Gerald Miller" wrote in message ... On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at boeing.com" wrote: I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern, but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to do, but often none at all. I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me how I know!) Gerry :-)} London, Canada I never thought about making a pattern for a wall. Floors yes. I might give it a try. My experience with contact cement is limited but I definitely will experiment with it. And I have more than once thought how nice it would be if my doors and windows would slide out for redecorating. The idea of needing redecorating never occurred to me the first time around. My current project is a copy of my home. I have spend an inordinate amount of time on a modular design which may or may not completely work as hoped. In the end, EVERYTHING should completely disassemble from the finished project if needed. Maybe wishful thinking.:-) Pat |
#9
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A dab of stick-um helps hold them in place, (very easy if the window or
door has built-in molding) but they're still easily removable. - Herb Steve Burns wrote: If you are careful, the windows and doors can be fit to an exact size so that they just slide into the slot (from the inside) and are not glued. You do that by making them a fraction oversize and trim them with rough sandpaper. it takes a while and you need to mark any that are identical cause they usually will only fit into the hole that they were trimmed for. Pat wrote: "Gerald Miller" wrote in message ... On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 19:38:33 GMT, Steve Burns "stephen.d.burns2 at boeing.com" wrote: I do the same thing with wall paper as I do with carpets and tile for floors. I make a pattern using palne paper. I rarely cut the pattern, but I fold the edges. it is pretty easy to make a small crease using a fingernail (or a scribe if I've been chewing on them). then I remove the pattern and make a complete fold for one wall (or cieling, or floor). stick it back in to check for any adjustments, and make a crease for the next complete fold. the end result is an exact pattern that I can use on the final paper. sometime I have a little trimming to do, but often none at all. I make a pattern by sticking in place the largest single sheet possible with a minimum of "stick" (few holes with tape sticking to the wall through them), then tape smaller pieces to the main piece to define all edges. Once the surface is fully defined, and all the small pieces are securely taped to each other, the whole shape can be extracted and used as a pattern to cut the finish material. Just be careful to apply the pattern to the finish goods right side up (ask me how I know!) Gerry :-)} London, Canada I never thought about making a pattern for a wall. Floors yes. I might give it a try. My experience with contact cement is limited but I definitely will experiment with it. And I have more than once thought how nice it would be if my doors and windows would slide out for redecorating. The idea of needing redecorating never occurred to me the first time around. My current project is a copy of my home. I have spend an inordinate amount of time on a modular design which may or may not completely work as hoped. In the end, EVERYTHING should completely disassemble from the finished project if needed. Maybe wishful thinking.:-) Pat |
#10
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I don't glue in doors and windows. If they're a bit loose, I use minihold.
It's easier to redecorate and clean the windows if they're removable (I don't clean the windows of my real house!). Wallpapering - I use the same method someone else described. I leave the doors and windows off, paper the whole room, and then cut out the holes for the doors and windows. Wait about a day to make the cuts because if the paste isn't totally dry, the wallpaper won't cut nicely. Molding around the openings hides any ragged edges. For papering itself, I use Minigraphics wallpaper paste. I apply a thin coat to the paper, wait a couple of minutes to let it set and then apply the paper from the top down. I rub it with a rag as I go along and then again at the end to get out any bubbles. Here's a tip for dark rooms. I put a mini spotlights in a corner where it can't be seen. I've also put the spotlights around the outside of the house. Looks nifty. The only caution is that these lights get quite hot and you don't want to put them near foliage. Carol S P Miniatures www.spminiatures.com |
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