Drilling holes in glass

Now that I have started having some fusing successes, I wanted to try
drilling holes in the fused glass. I have my little dremel out and set up
in a mini-drill press. Also, I probably have just about every diamond drill
bit known to man...and still the fused glass breaks. I have had some
success with art glass by damming (using polymer clay), filling with water
and going very slowly, raising the drill bit out of the hole, letting it
fill with water, and then tapping again. Not so much luck with fused glass.
This leads to the following questions:

Better to use cutting oil rather than water?
Recommended style of bit?
Higher or lower rpms used on the dremel?
Go slower (uncertain I can do that without taking it into the next
day...sheesh...)?
A different set up altogether?

Thanks as always!
Lori

Your rpm might be too fast. Try to get them about 3500. Water and the
clay dam is fine. I use a flex shaft. go in at an angle and when the
bit gets a bite slowly bring the bit up and then slowly rock it in a
circular motion. I've drilled fused glass that has four layers and have
not had any break. I use a 1/32" bit.

Scratch

FlameNwind wrote:
Now that I have started having some fusing successes, I wanted to try
drilling holes in the fused glass. I have my little dremel out and set up
in a mini-drill press. Also, I probably have just about every diamond drill
bit known to man...and still the fused glass breaks. I have had some
success with art glass by damming (using polymer clay), filling with water
and going very slowly, raising the drill bit out of the hole, letting it
fill with water, and then tapping again. Not so much luck with fused glass.
This leads to the following questions:

Better to use cutting oil rather than water?
Recommended style of bit?
Higher or lower rpms used on the dremel?
Go slower (uncertain I can do that without taking it into the next
day...sheesh...)?
A different set up altogether?

Thanks as always!
Lori

FlameNwind wrote:
Now that I have started having some fusing successes, I wanted to try
drilling holes in the fused glass. I have my little dremel out and set up
in a mini-drill press. Also, I probably have just about every diamond drill
bit known to man...and still the fused glass breaks. I have had some
success with art glass by damming (using polymer clay), filling with water
and going very slowly, raising the drill bit out of the hole, letting it
fill with water, and then tapping again. Not so much luck with fused glass.
This leads to the following questions:

Better to use cutting oil rather than water?
Recommended style of bit?
Higher or lower rpms used on the dremel?
Go slower (uncertain I can do that without taking it into the next
day...sheesh...)?
A different set up altogether?

Thanks as always!
Lori


What size holes? How thick?

What size holes? How thick?

The current hole size attempted was 1/16" and the piece was single thickness
approx. 1/4".

However, I hope to eventually drill holes into at least triple thickness
(although I have read that it tends to go to 1/4" thickness during a fuse
whether single layer or triple layer...is this correct?) and to use some
diamond hole bits up to 1/2" in diameter. Unless, of course, that isn't
possible...or let's say improbable, since I figure you can pretty much do
anything with enough gumption, patience and American ingenuity.

I would be interested in knowing if the size of the hole and the density of
the piece somehow alters the method used.

Also, some of the diamond bits are conical, some are round, some are
columns. And then I also have the arrowhead style sans diamonds that are
suppose to be useful with glass that I have usually found wanting (although
they work pretty well on tile.) Any recommendations on whether a particular
shape/style bit is any better than another?

Thanks!

Try Glastar or Inland Core bits. They are designed to work in a drill.
Use a drill press. Put the glass on a peice of styrofoam in a container
and cover the glass with water so that the water is about 1/8" over the
glass. Get the speed of the press at about 3500 rpms give or take.
Bring the press down slowly into the glass and then lift out, down and
lift out, down and lift out.

As for fused thickness...sometimes single layer will get a little
thicker on the side as it pulls in but that's about it. Oh, you can get
Industrial Inland Core bits up to 2" in diameter and the quality is
pretty good.

Scratch

FlameNwind wrote:
What size holes? How thick?

The current hole size attempted was 1/16" and the piece was single thickness
approx. 1/4".

However, I hope to eventually drill holes into at least triple thickness
(although I have read that it tends to go to 1/4" thickness during a fuse
whether single layer or triple layer...is this correct?) and to use some
diamond hole bits up to 1/2" in diameter. Unless, of course, that isn't
possible...or let's say improbable, since I figure you can pretty much do
anything with enough gumption, patience and American ingenuity.

I would be interested in knowing if the size of the hole and the density of
the piece somehow alters the method used.

Also, some of the diamond bits are conical, some are round, some are
columns. And then I also have the arrowhead style sans diamonds that are
suppose to be useful with glass that I have usually found wanting (although
they work pretty well on tile.) Any recommendations on whether a particular
shape/style bit is any better than another?

Thanks!

FlameNwind wrote in message
news:K%4hg.6031$im3.4102@trnddc01...
Now that I have started having some fusing successes, I wanted
to try
drilling holes in the fused glass. I have my little dremel out
and set up
in a mini-drill press. Also, I probably have just about every
diamond drill
bit known to man...and still the fused glass breaks. I have
had some
success with art glass by damming (using polymer clay), filling
with water
and going very slowly, raising the drill bit out of the hole,
letting it
fill with water, and then tapping again. Not so much luck with
fused glass.
This leads to the following questions:

Better to use cutting oil rather than water?
Recommended style of bit?
Higher or lower rpms used on the dremel?
Go slower (uncertain I can do that without taking it into the
next
day...sheesh...)?
A different set up altogether?

L.:

Here are some lapidary drilling tips which may have applicable
points for your discussion.

I use a wide, thick O ring on rock with grease as an attaching
sealant to
make a water dam for drilling. Excess pressure on diamond drills
is deleterious to your drill and the substrate. Drilling with a
gentle
pumping action cools the bit and clears the hole of grit which
can
cause unwanted localized friction which means heat which means
medium fracture. Microabrasive blasting is an alternative to
drilling as well.

If backside spalling is a problem in the diamond core drilling of
larger
holes there are also some other techniques that may be availing
and
transferable to glass work.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

I use a column shaped bit. Also with the thick pieces you need to make sure
they are well annealed or they will stress crack. Probably shouldn't drill
too close to the edge.

I bought a diamond core bit once but it was the kind with no diamonds on the
bottom. I think you have to use a loose grit with it. Anyone want to buy
it? 8-}

Fusing multiple layers of glass - they will spread out unless you contain
them with dams.
Good Luck,
--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"FlameNwind" wrote in message
news:FT6hg.6068$im3.2850@trnddc01...

What size holes? How thick?

The current hole size attempted was 1/16" and the piece was single
thickness approx. 1/4".

However, I hope to eventually drill holes into at least triple thickness
(although I have read that it tends to go to 1/4" thickness during a fuse
whether single layer or triple layer...is this correct?) and to use some
diamond hole bits up to 1/2" in diameter. Unless, of course, that isn't
possible...or let's say improbable, since I figure you can pretty much do
anything with enough gumption, patience and American ingenuity.

I would be interested in knowing if the size of the hole and the density
of the piece somehow alters the method used.

Also, some of the diamond bits are conical, some are round, some are
columns. And then I also have the arrowhead style sans diamonds that are
suppose to be useful with glass that I have usually found wanting
(although they work pretty well on tile.) Any recommendations on whether
a particular shape/style bit is any better than another?

Thanks!

"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:3Mehg.5749$9f2.4662@trnddc04...
I use a column shaped bit. Also with the thick pieces you need to make
sure
they are well annealed or they will stress crack. Probably shouldn't
drill
too close to the edge.

I bought a diamond core bit once but it was the kind with no diamonds on
the
bottom. I think you have to use a loose grit with it. Anyone want to buy
it? 8-}

Fusing multiple layers of glass - they will spread out unless you contain
them with dams.
Good Luck,
--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio



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I can't say enough good things about them, as far as my own experience, your
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and no, I am connected with them in no way other than I am a customer.

I use a column shaped bit...

Hi, Connie! Funny that out of my 40 plus diamond bits, the column shape is
the ONLY one that I haven't used! lol Going to give it a try post haste.

Fusing multiple layers of glass - they will spread out unless you contain
them with dams.

I am such a beginner...I have had really limited success in even getting the
glass to fuse! I mean, everything I have read has threatened cataclysmic
results should I ever OVER-HEAT the glass! Therefore, at this point, I have
only had a few actual fusings of two and three layers where you can't tell
that it is multiple layers. I am, however, learning the value of a good
soak. With that said, how many layers are you referring to, what is it that
you use to dam the glass and how are you using it (surrounding the glass on
the shelf with the dam or in a mold?)

Thanks!
Lori

FlameNwind wrote:
I use a column shaped bit...


Hi, Connie! Funny that out of my 40 plus diamond bits, the column shape is
the ONLY one that I haven't used! lol Going to give it a try post haste.


Fusing multiple layers of glass - they will spread out unless you contain
them with dams.


I am such a beginner...I have had really limited success in even getting the
glass to fuse! I mean, everything I have read has threatened cataclysmic
results should I ever OVER-HEAT the glass! Therefore, at this point, I have
only had a few actual fusings of two and three layers where you can't tell
that it is multiple layers. I am, however, learning the value of a good
soak. With that said, how many layers are you referring to, what is it that
you use to dam the glass and how are you using it (surrounding the glass on
the shelf with the dam or in a mold?)

Thanks!
Lori


Hi,

There is a saying that the glass wants to be 6 mm thick. That is 1/4 ".
If you put thinner glass in the kiln, the ends round up and contract.
If you use more yhan 6 mm (=2 layers) the glass wants to spread and thin
out.

I have an unorthodox notion that it is not so much about thickness but
the surface tension tries to pull the edges into 3 mm radius, which
makes a 6 mm edge. In fact the 6 mm glass tends to curve down from a
distance of abou 1/2" and then end with a bit under 6 mm radius.

OVERFIRING has multiple meanings. In the kiln we usually stay below 900
C while glass bkowers take it to 1100-1250 C.
The hotter temperature may cause some flux to evaporate, shifting COE
and causing stress when different glasses are fused together.
It also means that the glass flows more, softening the color borders,
and if not dammed, flows out if thick.

Firing in a lower temperature and long soak has many positive effects.
The glass does not copy so eagerly all irregularities of your shekf
primer or fiber paper. When slumping it is easier to see when to stop.
-lauri