I need a special glue

I am looking for a glue that spreads easily, dries clear, is thick
enough so that it doesn't soak into printed paper, forms a super strong
thin film, and of course, is reasonably cheap.

There are some glues in tubes that do the job, but they aren't easy to
spread out.

The best I have found so far is polyurethane varnish, but you can't put
lacquer over it which is another of my requirements.

Thank you,

Stewart Schooley

Stewart Schooley wrote:

I am looking for a glue that spreads easily, dries clear, is thick
enough so that it doesn't soak into printed paper, forms a super strong
thin film, and of course, is reasonably cheap.

There are some glues in tubes that do the job, but they aren't easy to
spread out.

The best I have found so far is polyurethane varnish, but you can't put
lacquer over it which is another of my requirements.

You're gluing paper to - what?

Depending on the use, I'd suggest Yes! glue, an acid-free paste that's
quite thick but can be spread very thin if you apply it with something like
a palette knife. The bond is strong and permanent, it won't buckle the
paper and once it's dry you can coat the paper with any finish you like.
Google "Yes paste" to find suppliers.

--
Pat Kight

In article , says...


The best I have found so far is polyurethane varnish, but you can't put
lacquer over it which is another of my requirements.

You're gluing paper to - what?

I was going to suggest the "Super 77" spray adhesive
made by 3-M but the reference to polyurethane
varnish as a "glue" puzzles me. If the intent is
to coat the piece after it's glued down then
ordinary clear acrylic medium or decoupage glue
should work well.

Di,

I can see it would help a lot if this group knew what I was doing. One
note about the Canon color copier. If any of you try this, use the laser
paper from a black and white copier in the color machine. It is thinner
and removes easier.

I use polyurethane to make a super thin and super strong decal from an
image printed on Canon High Resolution ink jet paper.

Here is the information;


I am working on transferring color images from a Canon color copier to
another surface. Currently I am using a pure polymer emulsion sold in
art supply stores as the glue. Here's my proceedure;

Brush the glue onto a surface with a brush.
Put the color print face down into the wet glue.
Smooth it out with your fingers and wipe off excess coming from the
edges with a rag. Wipe away from the paper.
Roll it with the little wood wheel used to roll wallpaper seams.
Let it dry a few hours.
Remove the paper using water, bleach and a small fairly stiff natural
bristle brush. Soak it good, keep it wet and use the brush to loosen and
brush away the wet pulp.

The image will be reversed so you have to print a reversed image to
transfer.

The glue I am using works well but occasionally I have a few small
missing spots. I am looking for something better.

Do any of you know of a glue that is easily spreadable, dries clear, is
thick enough so that it doesn't soak into the paper, is super strong,
and of course, cheap to buy?

BTW, for black only prints, get your print from a black and white laser
copier. For a quick and dirty testof this method, paint something with
any latex or acrylic paint you have, even old house paint. Put any black
and white laser print face down on the wet paint and follow the steps
above.

Stewart





Di Monbak wrote:

In article , says...




The best I have found so far is polyurethane varnish, but you can't put
lacquer over it which is another of my requirements.


You're gluing paper to - what?



I was going to suggest the "Super 77" spray adhesive
made by 3-M but the reference to polyurethane
varnish as a "glue" puzzles me. If the intent is
to coat the piece after it's glued down then
ordinary clear acrylic medium or decoupage glue
should work well.

In article , says...


I use polyurethane to make a super thin and super strong decal from an
image printed on Canon High Resolution ink jet paper.

In my school days we referred to this as
a "Rhoplex transfer." Rhoplex is the trade
name for acrylic polymer emulsion. I don't
know about using polyurethane for this purpose.
If the inks are water soluble, then the acrylic
polymer may work better. My method was to
lay the print onto a sheet of clean glass,
face up, then paint on successive layers of
acrylic - letting dry between layers. After
four or so layers, use water to soak the
glass and "release" the acrylic film, along
with the print. Flip the film layer over and
soak away the paper print, leaving the
ink impressed in the acrylic, which can
then be "transferred" to some other surface
and "glued" down with more acrylic medium.
You get a somewhat different effect than
if you simply decoupage the print onto
another surface to begin with.

Di,

Thank you for the info about Rhoplex. I did a Google search and found
that many of the artist's polymer emulsions contain Rhoplex. Frankly, I
believe they are the same. I have a test going using Liquitex Gel
Medium. It is the same as what I have been using, only it is much thicker.

FWIW, I consider this transfer technique to have been "invented' by a
student in one of my art classes back in the early1960s when acrylic art
materials were first coming into use. He was using the emulsion to glue
magazine photos onto a board. He didn't like one and soaked it off and
found that the photo from the back side was still there. I told him that
it looked more arty and to do some more. Other kids soon picked up on it.

Stewart

Di Monbak wrote:

In article , says...




I use polyurethane to make a super thin and super strong decal from an
image printed on Canon High Resolution ink jet paper.



In my school days we referred to this as
a "Rhoplex transfer." Rhoplex is the trade
name for acrylic polymer emulsion. I don't
know about using polyurethane for this purpose.
If the inks are water soluble, then the acrylic
polymer may work better. My method was to
lay the print onto a sheet of clean glass,
face up, then paint on successive layers of
acrylic - letting dry between layers. After
four or so layers, use water to soak the
glass and "release" the acrylic film, along
with the print. Flip the film layer over and
soak away the paper print, leaving the
ink impressed in the acrylic, which can
then be "transferred" to some other surface
and "glued" down with more acrylic medium.
You get a somewhat different effect than
if you simply decoupage the print onto
another surface to begin with.

Stewart Schooley wrote:

Di,

I can see it would help a lot if this group knew what I was doing. One
note about the Canon color copier. If any of you try this, use the laser
paper from a black and white copier in the color machine. It is thinner
and removes easier.

I use polyurethane to make a super thin and super strong decal from an
image printed on Canon High Resolution ink jet paper.

Here is the information;


I am working on transferring color images from a Canon color copier to
another surface. Currently I am using a pure polymer emulsion sold in
art supply stores as the glue. Here's my proceedure;

Brush the glue onto a surface with a brush.
Put the color print face down into the wet glue.
Smooth it out with your fingers and wipe off excess coming from the
edges with a rag. Wipe away from the paper.
Roll it with the little wood wheel used to roll wallpaper seams.
Let it dry a few hours.
Remove the paper using water, bleach and a small fairly stiff natural
bristle brush. Soak it good, keep it wet and use the brush to loosen and
brush away the wet pulp.

The image will be reversed so you have to print a reversed image to
transfer.

The glue I am using works well but occasionally I have a few small
missing spots. I am looking for something better.

Do any of you know of a glue that is easily spreadable, dries clear, is
thick enough so that it doesn't soak into the paper, is super strong,
and of course, cheap to buy?

BTW, for black only prints, get your print from a black and white laser
copier. For a quick and dirty testof this method, paint something with
any latex or acrylic paint you have, even old house paint. Put any black
and white laser print face down on the wet paint and follow the steps
above.

You know, there's a medium designed for this very job, and the process of
producing the transfers is a whole lot easier than you describe.

Are you familiar with Lazertran? It's an artist-quality transfer medium
which works with Canon (and certain other other) color laser copiers to
produce a standard waterslip decal which can be adhered to almost any
surface - paper, glass, wood, metal, fabric, plaster, even dimensional
surfaces. Great stuff, and it provides a crisp, clear. Take a look at

http://www.lazertran.com/

(I'm not affiliated with the company, I'm just one heck of a satisfied
customer).

--
Pat Kight

In article , says...


Thank you for the info about Rhoplex. I did a Google search and found
that many of the artist's polymer emulsions contain Rhoplex.

Rhoplex IS the product of Rhom-Haas (sp?) company,
which was at one time the principal supplier of
raw acrylic to other manufacturers, so you are
correct in thinking it's a common ingredient in
many brand names.

FWIW, I consider this transfer technique to have been "invented' by a
student in one of my art classes back in the early1960s

Interesting. I learned about using it from
the screen printing professor in the school I
attended. Maybe he was a student and the
one you knew in the 1960s? Wouldn't that be a
coincidence. I'm referring to Timothy High.

Di,

I taught at Mentor High School, Mentor, Ohio. 30 miles east of
Cleveland, Ohio.

I don't think my student was the only one to stumble across this, but he
was the first that I am aware of, so I give him the credit.

Last night I posted about this on the antique auto group because I can
see it being used to re-create the faux woodgrain dashboards that was
on many cars of the 1930s and 40s.

Would you mind if I sent you a private e-mails with a couple photos?
Also, take a look at this webpage about what I have done about restoring
old radios. After I work out the details about the transfer method, I
will add it to the page.

http://pages.cthome.net/ptf/photofin/photoFinish.html



Stewart

Di Monbak wrote:

In article , says...




Thank you for the info about Rhoplex. I did a Google search and found
that many of the artist's polymer emulsions contain Rhoplex.



Rhoplex IS the product of Rhom-Haas (sp?) company,
which was at one time the principal supplier of
raw acrylic to other manufacturers, so you are
correct in thinking it's a common ingredient in
many brand names.



FWIW, I consider this transfer technique to have been "invented' by a
student in one of my art classes back in the early1960s



Interesting. I learned about using it from
the screen printing professor in the school I
attended. Maybe he was a student and the
one you knew in the 1960s? Wouldn't that be a
coincidence. I'm referring to Timothy High.

Pat,

I am concerned with doing large sections of a radio or auto dashboard.
Transfering a full color image has to work perfectly every time or no
one will be interested in it. My method of gainlines only over a
basecoat of color means that if there are small problem areas, the same
base coat can be used to touch up color and a fine brush could touch up
the lines.

The people who restore dashboards for $2,000.00 do a lot of handwork
touchup in their work.

Do you think that Lazertran will do a perfect job every time doing 11" x
17" prints? Can't I do the same thing Lazestran does with polymer
emulsion medium? Are there any problems with handling and applying a
11" x 17" decal.

By the way, the thinnest and strongest decals I have made were ink jet
prints on Canon High-Resolution paper. Gave the print one even coat of
clear polyurethane and when dry, removed the paper. Best news of all is
that this paper leaves a white film on the back after the paper is
removed. It doesn't add to the thickness of the decal and makes the
decal opaque.

Stewart

Pat Kight wrote:

Stewart Schooley wrote:

Di,

I can see it would help a lot if this group knew what I was doing.
One note about the Canon color copier. If any of you try this, use
the laser paper from a black and white copier in the color machine.
It is thinner and removes easier.

I use polyurethane to make a super thin and super strong decal from
an image printed on Canon High Resolution ink jet paper.

Here is the information;


I am working on transferring color images from a Canon color copier
to another surface. Currently I am using a pure polymer emulsion sold
in art supply stores as the glue. Here's my proceedure;

Brush the glue onto a surface with a brush.
Put the color print face down into the wet glue.
Smooth it out with your fingers and wipe off excess coming from the
edges with a rag. Wipe away from the paper.
Roll it with the little wood wheel used to roll wallpaper seams.
Let it dry a few hours.
Remove the paper using water, bleach and a small fairly stiff natural
bristle brush. Soak it good, keep it wet and use the brush to loosen
and brush away the wet pulp.

The image will be reversed so you have to print a reversed image to
transfer.

The glue I am using works well but occasionally I have a few small
missing spots. I am looking for something better.

Do any of you know of a glue that is easily spreadable, dries clear,
is thick enough so that it doesn't soak into the paper, is super
strong, and of course, cheap to buy?

BTW, for black only prints, get your print from a black and white
laser copier. For a quick and dirty testof this method, paint
something with any latex or acrylic paint you have, even old house
paint. Put any black and white laser print face down on the wet paint
and follow the steps above.


You know, there's a medium designed for this very job, and the process
of producing the transfers is a whole lot easier than you describe.

Are you familiar with Lazertran? It's an artist-quality transfer
medium which works with Canon (and certain other other) color laser
copiers to produce a standard waterslip decal which can be adhered to
almost any surface - paper, glass, wood, metal, fabric, plaster, even
dimensional surfaces. Great stuff, and it provides a crisp, clear.
Take a look at

http://www.lazertran.com/

(I'm not affiliated with the company, I'm just one heck of a satisfied
customer).