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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 10th 09, 09:57 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Adrian
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Double-glazed units & stained glass ?

HI Folks

I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my
tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between.

The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons
that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my
panel that way.

I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing
a 'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked...

I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this
does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences?

Thanks
Adrian - West Cork, Ireland
www.inspired-glass.com
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  #2  
Old January 10th 09, 03:02 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Moonraker[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 186
Default Double-glazed units & stained glass ?

I've done it quite a few times. The overall size of the panel should
somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be
installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered.
Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit)
will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the
spacer/dessicant/sealant. The two pieces of float are sealed together, and
the art panel just "floats" in the cavity.

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
HI Folks

I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my
tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between.

The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons
that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my
panel that way.

I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a
'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked...

I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this
does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences?

Thanks
Adrian - West Cork, Ireland
www.inspired-glass.com



  #3  
Old January 10th 09, 03:20 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Adrian
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Double-glazed units & stained glass ?

Hi Moon

Thank for that. It seemed like a fairly simple exercise (or so the
glazing company guy said).

He wanted an extra 1/2" on each side of the panel - so a 12" panel would
become a 13" sealed unit. Not a problem so long as you know the rules in
advance! g

Most of the stuff they do this way is 'faux-stained' - the 'plastic lead
& coloured film' stuff... - but he said that they'd been asked about
'real' stained glass...

It'd be a solution for those customers who want their stained glass
panels fitted to exterior windows....

....think I'll make up something simple and get it encapsulated as a sample..

Thanks
Adrian

Moonraker wrote:
I've done it quite a few times. The overall size of the panel should
somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be
installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered.
Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit)
will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the
spacer/dessicant/sealant. The two pieces of float are sealed together, and
the art panel just "floats" in the cavity.

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
HI Folks

I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my
tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between.

The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons
that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my
panel that way.

I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a
'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked...

I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this
does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences?

Thanks
Adrian - West Cork, Ireland
www.inspired-glass.com



  #4  
Old January 10th 09, 06:24 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Chemo the Clown
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 143
Default Double-glazed units & stained glass ?

On Jan 10, 6:20*am, Adrian wrote:
Hi Moon

Thank for that. It seemed like a fairly simple exercise (or so the
glazing company guy said).

He wanted an extra 1/2" on each side of the panel - so a 12" panel would
become a 13" sealed unit. Not a problem so long as you know the rules in
advance! g

Most of the stuff they do this way is 'faux-stained' - the 'plastic lead
& coloured film' stuff... - but he said that they'd been asked about
'real' stained glass...

It'd be a solution for those customers who want their stained glass
panels fitted to exterior windows....

...think I'll make up something simple and get it encapsulated as a sample..

Thanks
Adrian



* Moonraker wrote:
I've done it quite a few times. *The overall size of the panel should
somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be
installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered..
Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit)
will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the
spacer/dessicant/sealant. *The two pieces of float are sealed together, and
the art panel just "floats" in the cavity.


"Adrian" wrote in message
...
HI Folks


I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my
tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between.


The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons
that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my
panel that way.


I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a
'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked...


I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this
does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences?


Thanks
Adrian - West Cork, Ireland
www.inspired-glass.com- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Most spacer bars are about 3/8" wide. I build my work to be 1" smaller
than the finished unit. This allows about 1/8" on the side for the
butyl to fill. Keep in mind that if your work is heavy then you'll
need something like small neoprene blocks inserted into the butyl on
the bottom to keep the weight of the panel from pushing down on the
spacer bar. If this window gets a lot of sun, believe me...you'll want
those blocks in there. My units are all built with aluminum spacer
bars and have desicant inside the bars. Most shops won't guarentee
that the unit won't fail...something to consider. 99% of all my units
are 5/8" thick overall.
  #5  
Old January 10th 09, 06:46 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Adrian
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Double-glazed units & stained glass ?

HI Chemo

Chemo the Clown wrote:
On Jan 10, 6:20 am, Adrian wrote:
Hi Moon

Thank for that. It seemed like a fairly simple exercise (or so the
glazing company guy said).

He wanted an extra 1/2" on each side of the panel - so a 12" panel would
become a 13" sealed unit. Not a problem so long as you know the rules in
advance! g

Most of the stuff they do this way is 'faux-stained' - the 'plastic lead
& coloured film' stuff... - but he said that they'd been asked about
'real' stained glass...

It'd be a solution for those customers who want their stained glass
panels fitted to exterior windows....

...think I'll make up something simple and get it encapsulated as a sample..

Thanks
Adrian



Moonraker wrote:
I've done it quite a few times. The overall size of the panel should
somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be
installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered.
Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit)
will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the
spacer/dessicant/sealant. The two pieces of float are sealed together, and
the art panel just "floats" in the cavity.
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
HI Folks
I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my
tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between.
The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons
that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my
panel that way.
I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a
'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked...
I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this
does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences?
Thanks
Adrian - West Cork, Ireland
www.inspired-glass.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Most spacer bars are about 3/8" wide. I build my work to be 1" smaller
than the finished unit. This allows about 1/8" on the side for the
butyl to fill. Keep in mind that if your work is heavy then you'll
need something like small neoprene blocks inserted into the butyl on
the bottom to keep the weight of the panel from pushing down on the
spacer bar.


Ah right - that's a thought....
is that something that your d/g unit man supplied - or did yu source
that yourself ?

If this window gets a lot of sun, believe me...you'll want
those blocks in there.


Probably best to work on the assumption that we'll get some sun -
though last year was pretty wet & miserable !

My units are all built with aluminum spacer
bars and have desicant inside the bars. Most shops won't guarentee
that the unit won't fail...something to consider. 99% of all my units
are 5/8" thick overall.


OK - thanks.
The local d/g man did say 'we'll not guarantee it' - but I guess he's
just covering his a**e g

He also suggested the use of small 'bump stops' in the centre of wider
windows - in case the stained glass should bend or warp.... I guess
that's a possibility, if the window was (say) top-hinged - and left open
in the heat of the summer sun. He reckoned that these little bump stops
were all but invisible in use...

OK - thanks !

Adrian
  #6  
Old January 10th 09, 07:12 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Chemo the Clown
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 143
Default Double-glazed units & stained glass ?

On Jan 10, 9:46*am, Adrian wrote:
HI Chemo
Ah right - that's a thought....
is that something that your d/g unit man supplied - or did yu source
that yourself ?


I have a flat glass shop that does my units. I've worked with for
almost 20 years. They discount to me and I discount to them on
specialty glass. It's a good business relationship that benefits both
of us.

OK - thanks.
The local d/g man did say 'we'll not guarantee it' - but I guess he's
just covering his a**e g


Not only that but he can't control the weight of the panel inside.
Lots of the new sidelight casing only have about a 5/8" wide lip so
with a 3/8" spacer bar and an 1/8 for the butyl there's not much
covered up with the wood trim. The inner unit doesn't have to sink
much before you can see a space at the very top.

He also suggested the use of small 'bump stops' in the centre of wider
windows - in case the stained glass should bend or warp.... I guess
that's a possibility, if the window was (say) top-hinged - and left open
in the heat of the summer sun. He reckoned that these little bump stops
were all but invisible in use...


Not sure about the bump stop thing. Leaded units are really close to
5/16" thick and with the space inside the IG being 3/8, there's not
much chance, if any, of the stained glass warping or bending. Butyl is
strong stuff. Same with the adhesive on the SuperSpacer. Get a small
unit built...let it sit around a month or two and then try to take it
apart.

Chemo

OK - thanks !

Adrian- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


  #7  
Old January 10th 09, 07:19 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Adrian
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 48
Default Double-glazed units & stained glass ?

HI Chemo

Chemo the Clown wrote:
On Jan 10, 9:46 am, Adrian wrote:
HI Chemo
Ah right - that's a thought....
is that something that your d/g unit man supplied - or did yu source
that yourself ?


I have a flat glass shop that does my units. I've worked with for
almost 20 years. They discount to me and I discount to them on
specialty glass. It's a good business relationship that benefits both
of us.


Excellent - that's the kind of thing I'm hoping for with my local d/g
shop. They used to refer clients to another studio - but he retired last
year - so I'm hoping to build up one of those 'win/win' relationships g


OK - thanks.
The local d/g man did say 'we'll not guarantee it' - but I guess he's
just covering his a**e g


Not only that but he can't control the weight of the panel inside.
Lots of the new sidelight casing only have about a 5/8" wide lip so
with a 3/8" spacer bar and an 1/8 for the butyl there's not much
covered up with the wood trim. The inner unit doesn't have to sink
much before you can see a space at the very top.


Fair point...


He also suggested the use of small 'bump stops' in the centre of wider
windows - in case the stained glass should bend or warp.... I guess
that's a possibility, if the window was (say) top-hinged - and left open
in the heat of the summer sun. He reckoned that these little bump stops
were all but invisible in use...


Not sure about the bump stop thing. Leaded units are really close to
5/16" thick and with the space inside the IG being 3/8, there's not
much chance, if any, of the stained glass warping or bending. Butyl is
strong stuff. Same with the adhesive on the SuperSpacer. Get a small
unit built...let it sit around a month or two and then try to take it
apart.


I was planning on doing the panels tiffany-style - which will maybe be a
little thinner - but I think the best plan is to suck it & see...

Thanks
Adrian
 




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