Pitting & Pinholing

Is there any harm in refiring pieces that have pitting/pinholing? Can
refiring help at all or will it make it worse? I can almost
guarantee the pitting/pinholing resulting from the glaze being too
thick as the only pieces that have it are those that I double dipped
to mix colors. I have done this in the past with the same glazes and
haven't had any problems so I'm not sure what was different with this
batch. I read up about it and couldn't find any definitve answers.
Most of the advice in my books applied to future firings and not to
correcting pieces with pitting/pinholing.

LMac

"Lindsay MacArthur" wrote in message
news
Is there any harm in refiring pieces that have pitting/pinholing? Can
refiring help at all or will it make it worse? I can almost
guarantee the pitting/pinholing resulting from the glaze being too
thick as the only pieces that have it are those that I double dipped
to mix colors. I have done this in the past with the same glazes and
haven't had any problems so I'm not sure what was different with this
batch. I read up about it and couldn't find any definitve answers.
Most of the advice in my books applied to future firings and not to
correcting pieces with pitting/pinholing.

LMac

Well a friend corrected pinholing by refiring to a lower temp. I think he
had orininally fired to about 1200C and then refired to 1100C, but I can't
be sure about the temps, it did however fix the pinholing.
Good luck
A

There is no real harm in refiring. I have done this to remove some
pitting. I would let it soak for an hour. You may find that it also
produces a slight colour change.

In article , Lindsay
MacArthur writes
Is there any harm in refiring pieces that have pitting/pinholing? Can
refiring help at all or will it make it worse? I can almost
guarantee the pitting/pinholing resulting from the glaze being too
thick as the only pieces that have it are those that I double dipped
to mix colors. I have done this in the past with the same glazes and
haven't had any problems so I'm not sure what was different with this
batch. I read up about it and couldn't find any definitve answers.
Most of the advice in my books applied to future firings and not to
correcting pieces with pitting/pinholing.

LMac

--
David Hewitt

Should I fire at the same temp of the initial fire or should I fire at
a lower temp?

LMac

On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 07:37:34 +0000, David Hewitt
wrote:

There is no real harm in refiring. I have done this to remove some
pitting. I would let it soak for an hour. You may find that it also
produces a slight colour change.

In article , Lindsay
MacArthur writes
Is there any harm in refiring pieces that have pitting/pinholing? Can
refiring help at all or will it make it worse? I can almost
guarantee the pitting/pinholing resulting from the glaze being too
thick as the only pieces that have it are those that I double dipped
to mix colors. I have done this in the past with the same glazes and
haven't had any problems so I'm not sure what was different with this
batch. I read up about it and couldn't find any definitve answers.
Most of the advice in my books applied to future firings and not to
correcting pieces with pitting/pinholing.

LMac

David Hewitt wrote:

There is no real harm in refiring. I have done this to remove some
pitting. I would let it soak for an hour. You may find that it also
produces a slight colour change.

That's what i thought a few weeks ago, i had a favorite mug which had an
ever so slight chip on the rim. I reglazed the part and refired the mug:
same temperature, same glaze, - it came out totally destroyed, glaze is
rough, the writing on the side ran, everything else in the kiln was as
normally, - i had that happen several times with refirings, so don't bet
on it.

Monika

--
Monika Schleidt

www.schleidt.org/mskeramik

Fire to the normal temp for the glaze in question - or even a little bit
higher. I would first try to the normal temperature and give it a one
hour soak.

In article , Lindsay
MacArthur writes
Should I fire at the same temp of the initial fire or should I fire at
a lower temp?

LMac

On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 07:37:34 +0000, David Hewitt
wrote:

There is no real harm in refiring. I have done this to remove some
pitting. I would let it soak for an hour. You may find that it also
produces a slight colour change.

In article , Lindsay
MacArthur writes
Is there any harm in refiring pieces that have pitting/pinholing? Can
refiring help at all or will it make it worse? I can almost
guarantee the pitting/pinholing resulting from the glaze being too
thick as the only pieces that have it are those that I double dipped
to mix colors. I have done this in the past with the same glazes and
haven't had any problems so I'm not sure what was different with this
batch. I read up about it and couldn't find any definitve answers.
Most of the advice in my books applied to future firings and not to
correcting pieces with pitting/pinholing.

LMac


--
David Hewitt

i'm still breaking in a new gas kiln and a batch of pieces from the last fire
had pin holing. this group was fired too low for bisque, and in the glaze fire
they pin holed. i plan to use a runny glaze over the holes to "flux" these
holes shut in the next cobe 10 fire.

it's only dirt anyway...

steve




Subject: Pitting & Pinholing
From: Lindsay MacArthur
Date: 1/22/2004 8:40 AM Pacific Standard Time
Message-id:

Is there any harm in refiring pieces that have pitting/pinholing? Can
refiring help at all or will it make it worse? I can almost
guarantee the pitting/pinholing resulting from the glaze being too
thick as the only pieces that have it are those that I double dipped
to mix colors. I have done this in the past with the same glazes and
haven't had any problems so I'm not sure what was different with this
batch. I read up about it and couldn't find any definitve answers.
Most of the advice in my books applied to future firings and not to
correcting pieces with pitting/pinholing.

LMac








steve graber

I'd be interested in hearing your results if you do refire. I've tried
refiring pots with pinholing on them and they just got worse. And I think
they were brushed on glazes - maybe dust underneath? Anyway, I never found
the root cause and never managed to fixed them - as usual they were my
favorite pieces in the kilnload, so I'd love to hear it if you come up with
a solution.
Simon
"Lindsay MacArthur" wrote in message
news
Is there any harm in refiring pieces that have pitting/pinholing? Can
refiring help at all or will it make it worse? I can almost
guarantee the pitting/pinholing resulting from the glaze being too
thick as the only pieces that have it are those that I double dipped
to mix colors. I have done this in the past with the same glazes and
haven't had any problems so I'm not sure what was different with this
batch. I read up about it and couldn't find any definitve answers.
Most of the advice in my books applied to future firings and not to
correcting pieces with pitting/pinholing.

LMac

Simon,
I tried refiring just once so far. It didn't help and some things trned out
even worse. I haven't given up totally on the idea, but would like to share
what I learned from this attempt. Through the help and advice of the great
people on this list, I came to the conclusion that the reason why mine failed
could be traced back to the bisque firing. The pieces that were the worst were
from a bisque firing that had blown the breaker sometime during the firing. I
was never able to determine for sure at what point it tripped, but I am sure I
didn't reach ^04 and maybe not even ^06. Apparantly not enough of the
impurities had a chance to burn completely out and they effected the glaze. I
know that sounds somewhat simplistic so maybe the wonderful folks here would
explain it better. But that's my experience with refiring. Enough to teach me a
really good lesson on how important the bisque firing stage really is!

That makes sense. With mine, however, it's always been one piece in a
kilnload, although they've all been a speckled stoneware I use. Hmmm.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Simon
"GaSeku" wrote in message
...
Simon,
I tried refiring just once so far. It didn't help and some things trned
out
even worse. I haven't given up totally on the idea, but would like to
share
what I learned from this attempt. Through the help and advice of the great
people on this list, I came to the conclusion that the reason why mine
failed
could be traced back to the bisque firing. The pieces that were the worst
were
from a bisque firing that had blown the breaker sometime during the
firing. I
was never able to determine for sure at what point it tripped, but I am
sure I
didn't reach ^04 and maybe not even ^06. Apparantly not enough of the
impurities had a chance to burn completely out and they effected the
glaze. I
know that sounds somewhat simplistic so maybe the wonderful folks here
would
explain it better. But that's my experience with refiring. Enough to teach
me a
really good lesson on how important the bisque firing stage really is!