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pants advice help please!!!!



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 4th 03, 08:19 PM
dnmgiordano
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Default pants advice help please!!!!

Does anyone know of a website that explains how to shorten the crotch on a
pattern for pants. I find when I make pants the crotch is way too low. I
tried raising it, but have had no success, and I tried raising the waistband
and lengthening the legs but this only works with really simple pants. The
best I can do is keep practicing, but advice would be wonderful!

Thanks!


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  #2  
Old December 5th 03, 03:48 PM
Riteous Right Reverend Mahmoud Bin Changstein
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If the crotch is too low the the rise is too high. Lower the waistband
and compensate for this shortening by lengthening the legs


Thu, 04 Dec 2003 19:19:01 GMT, "dnmgiordano"
wrote:

Does anyone know of a website that explains how to shorten the crotch on a
pattern for pants. I find when I make pants the crotch is way too low. I
tried raising it, but have had no success, and I tried raising the waistband
and lengthening the legs but this only works with really simple pants. The
best I can do is keep practicing, but advice would be wonderful!

Thanks!


  #3  
Old December 6th 03, 01:38 AM
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pants advice help please!!!!

(dnmgiordano)
Does anyone know of a website that explains how to shorten the crotch on
a pattern for pants. I find when I make pants the crotch is way too low.
I tried raising it, but have had no success, and I tried raising the
waistband and lengthening the legs but this only works with really
simple pants. The best I can do is keep practicing, but advice would be
wonderful!
---
How-To:
Look at your pattern--- there is a shortening/lengthening line which
runs across the seat area, above the crotch. Once you figure out how
much you need to shorten the crotch, divide that measurement in half,
and fold the pattern on that line, both Front and Back pattern pieces,
pinned equally.
Cut a test pair from muslin and refine the fit, then transfer any
further alterations to the pattern. (To find the waist, put on the
offending pants, tie a cord around your waist, and use tailor's chalk,
or a soft lead pencil, to mark the new waist line. Add enough { 1/2 to
5/8 inch} above that line for a seam, or apply a band)
Remember to leave ease room when you do this, or you'll be singing
soprano every time you sit down.
When you are altering ready-made pants, the best way to fit the
crotch is by 'dropping' the waistband, rather than altering the
cross-crotch seam. You get a less-than nice fit in the stride when you
fool with the cross-crotch area.--Although there are exceptions to this
rule.
Exception:
If you take a pair of a pair of slacks made for women's size 18 and
above, and turn them inside-out, you will see that the crotch inseam
widens (considerably in size 20+), ballooning outwards, a few inches
from the cross-crotch seam. Not all large women need this fullness
through the thigh, and it can be eliminated.
(Pin-fit--OUCH!! {free acupuncture} or use a tailor's measure made for
this purpose.) Eliminate crotch bag/sag by stitching starting at the
inseam, about 2 or 3 inches from the crotch, up and across the crotch,
and 2 or 3 inches down the other inseam, then trimming the seam.
(OTOH, when you alter the slack through the lower center back seam,
you will make the crotch depth _longer/deeper_. I occasionally do this
for gravity-afflicted older folks ; ) The sky ain't the only thing
falling, Chicken Little.
I happen to be working on 9 pair of slacks tonight, dropping the
waistband the width of 3 complete turns (rolls of the fabric) in the
fronts, tapering from sides to back, where only a one-width roll down is
needed, Sum fun! And hemming, and altering crotches. Obviously, it's
such fun, it's made me giddy. Oh yay.
When you are altering pants with stitched-down elastic all the way
'round, you don't need to remove the waistband. Mark the new line below
the waist, then fold the waist over toward the right side of the pants
to half that line, and stitch, stretching the elastic to fit.
I don't know if you can do this successfully without a serger, as I
just run a two or three-thread serger seam at the new edge, trimming
excess as I serge.
If it results in a bulky waist seam, reduce the bulk by topstitching
the elastic edge just below the waist, then steam it slightly to shrink
the elastic.
On some of these pants, after I drop the waistband, I will slit the
band, in front of the elastic at center front, do a quick little
buttonhole stitch around the slits by hand, and add a drawstring. This
is a lot quicker than removing/replacing the elastic, saves the client
money, and works well when a client is losing weight, as this one is.
HTH.
Cea

  #4  
Old December 6th 03, 01:37 PM
SewStorm
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(Pin-fit--OUCH!! {free acupuncture}

I occasionally do this
for gravity-afflicted older folks ; ) The sky ain't the only thing
falling, Chicken Little.


LOL! Cea, you should take this act on the road. I can see the billing now: Cea,
the Comic Sewist!

Much better than Triumph, the Comic Insult Dog.
Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati

  #5  
Old December 6th 03, 06:24 PM
dnmgiordano
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Default

Thanks to everybody for the advice, although I have tried most of these
things or a variation of them! Maybe I should stick to shirts~ oh wait, I
forgot about my sleeve problems lol!

Thanks again!
"dnmgiordano" wrote in message
news:FMLzb.562389$9l5.98741@pd7tw2no...
Does anyone know of a website that explains how to shorten the crotch on a
pattern for pants. I find when I make pants the crotch is way too low. I
tried raising it, but have had no success, and I tried raising the

waistband
and lengthening the legs but this only works with really simple pants.

The
best I can do is keep practicing, but advice would be wonderful!

Thanks!




 




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