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#51
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 14:08:20 +1100, Jordan wrote:
Singer 132K6 What he said. We have one my grandfather bought when he was in the carpet business - i still have the packing crate somewhere. If you cant sew it with the 132K6, you need a drill and nuts and bolts... Oil them every day with light machine oil, including the bobbin case, and clear out the fluff. Geoff |
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#52
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
Hi All
Yep 132k6 is good if you want to do tarps for a B-double or stitch polishing mops for buffing. Or serious motor trimming with plastics. It is a lot heavier than a 111W. A 132 is not good for lighter work Take a trip to the nearest industrial sewing supplier and ask to see the range of needles for both machines. For normal upholstery or sail making a 111 is fine up to a fabric thickness of a bit over 3/16" After that the 132 comes in. But doing lighter work on a 132 is not good. The 132 does not like light weight threads at all. Light work is spoiled by the heavy threads required Needles from about size 22 up to the equivalent of a 3" framing gun nail. Normal sewing thread will break. Special threads are required. The 111w only just copes with normal sewing threads as used on a domestic machine the min needle size is 16 it is happier with an 18 or bigger If you get one of these machines do not try to run it at 3-5000 rpm the normal speed for an industrial machine these days. Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and 650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy. Run em any faster and the beautifully (Hand) honed and hardened bearings will simply seize, lock up and break something. And that will mean goodbye. Final tip Use Teflon added oil, is a huge improvement compared to the normal white machine oil on the hook and base. The rotating part you put the bobbin in. it will run much cooler Cheers Macka Australia PS Hi Don Nichols.. I spoke to you on this forum about 7 years ago. (you gave me good advice too) Thank You John McNamara |
#53
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
Anon wrote:
Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and 650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy. etc Good useful info Macka - thanks. For really fine leatherwork, I've seen amazing work done on machines with roller feet and feed. Jordan |
#54
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
"Jordan" wrote in message u... Anon wrote: Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and 650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy. etc Good useful info Macka - thanks. For really fine leatherwork, I've seen amazing work done on machines with roller feet and feed. Jordan I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for $250 at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas awning work. They work good on leather, too. Steve |
#55
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
"Anon" wrote in message ... HI look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of thousands made. I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am going to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto restoration. I didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't have any leather. He found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We laid a piece of fabric on top of it and sewed through the pair with the greatest of ease. No problem. Ivan Vegvary |
#56
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:5QQrj.191$YJ4.63@trndny01... "Anon" wrote in message ... HI look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of thousands made. I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am going to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto restoration. I didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't have any leather. He found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We laid a piece of fabric on top of it and sewed through the pair with the greatest of ease. No problem. Ivan Vegvary Looking up my 111W155 serial number in the Singer manual tells me mine was made in 1957. They are a workhorse. Ultimate Sew and Vac have them for $710 each, probably refurbished and tweaked. Comes with table, stand and motor. Consew makes a mongo unit that we used for our canvas awning business, but IIRC, it was pretty spendy. I don't know. I did the welding for the frames, and my partner did the canvas. Going to make some of my own awnings for my house this spring. I still have quite a few awnings hanging around Las Vegas from when I was a contractor. They're very nice ........ if you don't have to pay retail. ;-) Steve |
#57
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
SNIP
I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for $250 at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas awning work. They work good on leather, too. Steve I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out of business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200. One nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined" the machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried going through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing eight layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened. To my surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together like it was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for the machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level of respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . . The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and afford it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a machine that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying it. It probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it would be easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are ways around not having reverse, but having it would just make things a little bit easier. Wayne |
#58
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
Hi Wayne
If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite. The sound of hardened and polished steel snapping is not good. and the spare parts (not counting the labour) will cost you more than the cost of the machine. If you can get them. The 132 can do masonite, but the stuff they use in cars and upholstery is not flooring underlay. it is soft and flexible. Cheers John McNamara "NoOne N Particular" wrote in message t... SNIP I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for $250 at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas awning work. They work good on leather, too. Steve I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out of business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200. One nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined" the machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried going through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing eight layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened. To my surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together like it was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for the machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level of respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . . The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and afford it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a machine that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying it. It probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it would be easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are ways around not having reverse, but having it would just make things a little bit easier. Wayne |
#59
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
Anon wrote:
Hi Wayne If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite. No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But I don't have big enough balls to try it. Wayne P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in boat canvas windows. |
#60
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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop
NoOne N Particular wrote:
Anon wrote: Hi Wayne If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite. No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But I don't have big enough balls to try it. Wayne P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in boat canvas windows. And there was me thinking you meant fibreglass fabric! Good luck with the project. Do keep us up to date on how it goes. -- Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore! |
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