Using copper restrip

Hi

I am starting work on a 5'x2' transom window using a combination of
copper foil, lead came, rebar, and copper restrip. The transom is
composed of 8 squares in two rows of 4, separated by mullions, and I am
going to install it against the inside of an existing window. I am
planning on using foil within each square pattern, and 3/8 reinforced
lead came connecting all 8 squares of glass patterns, along with rebar
over the lead came joints.

The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?

Due to some of the zig-zags and curves in the pattern design (which
uses some 6-8 inch round agate slices, can I apply the restrip in 3-4
sections (e.g. 12-16 inch sections of restrip) that run across the pane
and get the same result instead of having to insert a continuous
30-inch strip of copper restrip and pressing it in between all the
foiled pieces?

Has anyone used both restrip and rebar in a window of this size before?

TIA!!!
J

"DragonFly" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi

I am starting work on a 5'x2' transom window using a combination of
copper foil, lead came, rebar, and copper restrip. The transom is
composed of 8 squares in two rows of 4, separated by mullions, and I am
going to install it against the inside of an existing window. I am
planning on using foil within each square pattern, and 3/8 reinforced
lead came connecting all 8 squares of glass patterns, along with rebar
over the lead came joints.

The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?

Due to some of the zig-zags and curves in the pattern design (which
uses some 6-8 inch round agate slices, can I apply the restrip in 3-4
sections (e.g. 12-16 inch sections of restrip) that run across the pane
and get the same result instead of having to insert a continuous
30-inch strip of copper restrip and pressing it in between all the
foiled pieces?

Has anyone used both restrip and rebar in a window of this size before?

TIA!!!
J


Sounds like overkill to me. This panel is smaller than what one usually
finds in a full-view door. Doors get a LOT more abuse than a transom ever
would, and especially one that is protected with mullions and muttins and
doublestrength on the outside. You are going to be spending a lot of extra
time and effort for no reason.

Just frame the panel in some 3/4" zinc and stick it in the hole.

I can't comment on too little or too much without seeing the design, but I
post this "Tidbit" on zinc.

Time has taught me to "fill" the lower hollow part of the BOTTOM zinc outer
bar with "something" (hardwood, steel rod, more zinc, etc.), as the zinc
will slowly collapse over many years if I don't....unless I have adequate
steel rebars set into the framing around the panel to support the continuous
weight bearing down on that bottom zinc. Just thought some of you would
appreciate this tidbit..... or learn it "my way" yourself...hahahahah ...
know what I mean?

101 days today..... 6" powder on Mt Baldy and a couple of 'first track'
runs... again!. Nice way to start my day....now to go solder a zinc/lead
door panel 31x71", which is about a one man 'handling limit'. Apparently
I'll have to wash the flux off this one out in the blizzard ... oh well, too
bad...LOL. Tomorrow... another powder morning in the forecast... ;-)

Say.... here's a Question for ya'll: applying steel rebar. I usually
solder the bar directly onto the panel itself for ultimate rigidity.
However, some folks solder wires to the panel and then wire the panel to the
rebar during installation. I'd be interested in others' opinions and
experience on this method, as it would simplify 'some' aspects for me.
Thanks!

cheers, SkiDog (aka: Jacques Bordeleau)


================================================== ============
"Moonraker" wrote in message
.. .

"DragonFly" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi

I am starting work on a 5'x2' transom window using a combination of
copper foil, lead came, rebar, and copper restrip. The transom is
composed of 8 squares in two rows of 4, separated by mullions, and I am
going to install it against the inside of an existing window. I am
planning on using foil within each square pattern, and 3/8 reinforced
lead came connecting all 8 squares of glass patterns, along with rebar
over the lead came joints.

The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?

Due to some of the zig-zags and curves in the pattern design (which
uses some 6-8 inch round agate slices, can I apply the restrip in 3-4
sections (e.g. 12-16 inch sections of restrip) that run across the pane
and get the same result instead of having to insert a continuous
30-inch strip of copper restrip and pressing it in between all the
foiled pieces?

Has anyone used both restrip and rebar in a window of this size before?

TIA!!!
J


Sounds like overkill to me. This panel is smaller than what one usually
finds in a full-view door. Doors get a LOT more abuse than a transom
ever
would, and especially one that is protected with mullions and muttins and
doublestrength on the outside. You are going to be spending a lot of
extra
time and effort for no reason.

Just frame the panel in some 3/4" zinc and stick it in the hole.

"Sundog" wrote in message
nk.net...
I can't comment on too little or too much without seeing the design, but I
post this "Tidbit" on zinc.

Time has taught me to "fill" the lower hollow part of the BOTTOM zinc
outer
bar with "something" (hardwood, steel rod, more zinc, etc.), as the zinc
will slowly collapse over many years if I don't....unless I have adequate
steel rebars set into the framing around the panel to support the
continuous
weight bearing down on that bottom zinc. Just thought some of you would
appreciate this tidbit..... or learn it "my way" yourself...hahahahah ...
know what I mean?

101 days today..... 6" powder on Mt Baldy and a couple of 'first track'
runs... again!. Nice way to start my day....now to go solder a zinc/lead
door panel 31x71", which is about a one man 'handling limit'.

I routinely handle and flip over panels this size by myself and never give
it a thought. It's when I begin to work on 48x48 and larger that I begin
to want some help. I can do an intact window that size by myself, but if
it is one that I'm repairing and I have it partially disassembled, I'll for
sure have a helper just to insure no further damage.


Apparently
I'll have to wash the flux off this one out in the blizzard ... oh well,
too
bad...LOL. Tomorrow... another powder morning in the forecast... ;-)

Say.... here's a Question for ya'll: applying steel rebar. I usually
solder the bar directly onto the panel itself for ultimate rigidity.
However, some folks solder wires to the panel and then wire the panel to
the
rebar during installation. I'd be interested in others' opinions and
experience on this method, as it would simplify 'some' aspects for me.
Thanks!

Steel or zinc rebar? I've been using zinc rather than the steel because it
solders so much better. And bends easier, too. For the applications I
have, zinc seems so much easier and I don't think there's enough loss of
strength to be concerned. At least, not across a 28-30" wide door panel.





cheers, SkiDog (aka: Jacques Bordeleau)


================================================== ============
"Moonraker" wrote in message
.. .

"DragonFly" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi

I am starting work on a 5'x2' transom window using a combination of
copper foil, lead came, rebar, and copper restrip. The transom is
composed of 8 squares in two rows of 4, separated by mullions, and I
am
going to install it against the inside of an existing window. I am
planning on using foil within each square pattern, and 3/8 reinforced
lead came connecting all 8 squares of glass patterns, along with rebar
over the lead came joints.

The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?

Due to some of the zig-zags and curves in the pattern design (which
uses some 6-8 inch round agate slices, can I apply the restrip in 3-4
sections (e.g. 12-16 inch sections of restrip) that run across the
pane
and get the same result instead of having to insert a continuous
30-inch strip of copper restrip and pressing it in between all the
foiled pieces?

Has anyone used both restrip and rebar in a window of this size
before?

TIA!!!
J


Sounds like overkill to me. This panel is smaller than what one usually
finds in a full-view door. Doors get a LOT more abuse than a transom
ever
would, and especially one that is protected with mullions and muttins
and
doublestrength on the outside. You are going to be spending a lot of
extra
time and effort for no reason.

Just frame the panel in some 3/4" zinc and stick it in the hole.

Steel or zinc rebar? I've been using zinc rather than the steel because
it
solders so much better. And bends easier, too. For the applications I
have, zinc seems so much easier and I don't think there's enough loss of
strength to be concerned. At least, not across a 28-30" wide door panel.


I've used mostly steel rebar, Moon ... either 1/8x3/8" or 1/8"x1/2 (really
tough to bend). I have some old glass pliers with notches in the jaws meant
for bending flat rebar and they really work well... but not seen that model
in ages, so I'm stuck with the 2 pair I have now. A vise is a great assist,
and they also make a bending bar that essentially is 3 pins on the end of a
steel handle... also pretty effective at reducing the strength needed to
manipulate it (and I bend them to follow my lead lines, almost never
spanning open glass areas).

I used brass flat stock rebar for a brass came door panel once, and have
seen 1/4" brass rod used on medium leaded panels. I used to think zinc was
stronger than it is, and would now worry about zinc rebar, but never having
worked with it I am guessing. I know for a fact that the steel I use doesn't
move... ever. The zinc would be the ticket for smaller panels with intricate
bends, no doubt.

Does anybody have experience with the "wire-on" method I mentioned before?

(looks like I'll be washing this panel in the blizzard after dark, at the
rate I'm moving now ....LOL)

cheers, Powderhound

Moon, it occurred to me that I'm soldering my steel rebar to the panels with
my 200 watt Hexacon iron. The steel rebars heat up pretty quick with that
hog, and I make sure to clean or grind for fresh metal first, even using the
pre-tinned steel rebar (usually), which are nice. I am somewhat referring
back to the thread on Weller irons below....

cheers, JB


"Moonraker" wrote in message
. ..

"Sundog" wrote in message
nk.net...
I can't comment on too little or too much without seeing the design, but
I
post this "Tidbit" on zinc.

Time has taught me to "fill" the lower hollow part of the BOTTOM zinc
outer
bar with "something" (hardwood, steel rod, more zinc, etc.), as the zinc
will slowly collapse over many years if I don't....unless I have
adequate
steel rebars set into the framing around the panel to support the
continuous
weight bearing down on that bottom zinc. Just thought some of you would
appreciate this tidbit..... or learn it "my way" yourself...hahahahah
....
know what I mean?

101 days today..... 6" powder on Mt Baldy and a couple of 'first track'
runs... again!. Nice way to start my day....now to go solder a zinc/lead
door panel 31x71", which is about a one man 'handling limit'.

I routinely handle and flip over panels this size by myself and never give
it a thought. It's when I begin to work on 48x48 and larger that I begin
to want some help. I can do an intact window that size by myself, but if
it is one that I'm repairing and I have it partially disassembled, I'll
for
sure have a helper just to insure no further damage.


Apparently
I'll have to wash the flux off this one out in the blizzard ... oh well,
too
bad...LOL. Tomorrow... another powder morning in the forecast... ;-)

Say.... here's a Question for ya'll: applying steel rebar. I
usually
solder the bar directly onto the panel itself for ultimate rigidity.
However, some folks solder wires to the panel and then wire the panel to
the
rebar during installation. I'd be interested in others' opinions and
experience on this method, as it would simplify 'some' aspects for me.
Thanks!

Steel or zinc rebar? I've been using zinc rather than the steel because
it
solders so much better. And bends easier, too. For the applications I
have, zinc seems so much easier and I don't think there's enough loss of
strength to be concerned. At least, not across a 28-30" wide door panel.





cheers, SkiDog (aka: Jacques Bordeleau)


================================================== ============
"Moonraker" wrote in message
.. .

"DragonFly" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi

I am starting work on a 5'x2' transom window using a combination of
copper foil, lead came, rebar, and copper restrip. The transom is
composed of 8 squares in two rows of 4, separated by mullions, and I
am
going to install it against the inside of an existing window. I am
planning on using foil within each square pattern, and 3/8
reinforced
lead came connecting all 8 squares of glass patterns, along with
rebar
over the lead came joints.

The copper restrip that I am using is VentureTape Copper Reinforcing
Strip (5/32", 10mil thickness). I have heard from some people that,
like rebar, in order to be effective, copper restrip must run
*continuously* from one end of the window pattern to the other.

Is this really necessary?

Due to some of the zig-zags and curves in the pattern design (which
uses some 6-8 inch round agate slices, can I apply the restrip in
3-4
sections (e.g. 12-16 inch sections of restrip) that run across the
pane
and get the same result instead of having to insert a continuous
30-inch strip of copper restrip and pressing it in between all the
foiled pieces?

Has anyone used both restrip and rebar in a window of this size
before?

TIA!!!
J


Sounds like overkill to me. This panel is smaller than what one
usually
finds in a full-view door. Doors get a LOT more abuse than a transom
ever
would, and especially one that is protected with mullions and muttins
and
doublestrength on the outside. You are going to be spending a lot of
extra
time and effort for no reason.

Just frame the panel in some 3/4" zinc and stick it in the hole.

Does anybody have experience with the "wire-on" method I mentioned
before?
While I don't have direct experience, I consider it the "standard" method
once a certain size is reached - the steel being welded or riveted to the
side and bottom frames. I have been told and assumed it was the standard
method for cathedrals and other large windows.

--
Mike Firth
Hot Glass Bits Furnace Working Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/hotbit47.htm Latest notes

"Sundog" wrote in message
ink.net...

Steel or zinc rebar? I've been using zinc rather than the steel because
it
solders so much better. And bends easier, too. For the applications I
have, zinc seems so much easier and I don't think there's enough loss of
strength to be concerned. At least, not across a 28-30" wide door panel.


I've used mostly steel rebar, Moon ... either 1/8x3/8" or 1/8"x1/2 (really
tough to bend). I have some old glass pliers with notches in the jaws
meant
for bending flat rebar and they really work well... but not seen that
model
in ages, so I'm stuck with the 2 pair I have now. A vise is a great
assist,
and they also make a bending bar that essentially is 3 pins on the end of
a
steel handle... also pretty effective at reducing the strength needed to
manipulate it (and I bend them to follow my lead lines, almost never
spanning open glass areas).

I used brass flat stock rebar for a brass came door panel once, and have
seen 1/4" brass rod used on medium leaded panels. I used to think zinc was
stronger than it is, and would now worry about zinc rebar, but never
having
worked with it I am guessing. I know for a fact that the steel I use
doesn't
move... ever. The zinc would be the ticket for smaller panels with
intricate
bends, no doubt.

Does anybody have experience with the "wire-on" method I mentioned before?

(looks like I'll be washing this panel in the blizzard after dark, at the
rate I'm moving now ....LOL)

cheers, Powderhound