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#1
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copper and come 6
Has anyone ever fired a piece wrapped in thin copper tubing at cone 6? My
kiln's electric, by the way. I'm curious what it might look like, if it would even work at all. Thanks, Gaye |
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#3
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Yes, but would it possibly leave an design like it does with raku or is cone 6
just way too hot? |
#4
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Gaye,
Anything you melt in an electric kiln could possibly affect the elements, not to mention the possibility of metallic pieces shorting out the elements and burning a hole in them. I would wait until you get a gas kiln to do any experiments with foreign objects/substances. Dave "GaSeku" wrote in message ... Yes, but would it possibly leave an design like it does with raku or is cone 6 just way too hot? |
#5
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That's what I was afraid of. Now the bigger question...WHEN will I get a gas
kiln, being that my husband is in the propane business? :-) Gaye |
#6
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In article , David
Coggins writes Gaye, Anything you melt in an electric kiln could possibly affect the elements, not to mention the possibility of metallic pieces shorting out the elements and burning a hole in them. I would wait until you get a gas kiln to do any experiments with foreign objects/substances. Dave "GaSeku" wrote in message ... Yes, but would it possibly leave an design like it does with raku or is cone 6 just way too hot? I've had some success with chopped-up snips of very fine copper wire (about 36 gauge) applied to the unfired glaze on stoneware pots. The glaze was an opaque white gloss, and after firing to cone 7 the copper produced the standard oxidation green, in a fairly diffuse pattern. Finding wire fine enough may be a problem. Get some flexible cable, and strip out the separate strands. (I used extra-flex from RS Components in the UK.) The difficulty was to get the bits of wire to stick to the glaze in the random pattern I wanted. Try it when the glaze is still a bit damp, and then press the bits of wire into it. Or brush some CMC on the glaze, to make it sticky. Actually it's easier if you apply it to horizontal or near-horizontal surfaces (eg the inside base of a bowl). This was in an electric kiln. Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. UK |
#7
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"Jake Loddington" wrote in message ... In article , David Coggins writes Gaye, Anything you melt in an electric kiln could possibly affect the elements, not to mention the possibility of metallic pieces shorting out the elements and burning a hole in them. I would wait until you get a gas kiln to do any experiments with foreign objects/substances. Dave "GaSeku" wrote in message ... Yes, but would it possibly leave an design like it does with raku or is cone 6 just way too hot? I've had some success with chopped-up snips of very fine copper wire (about 36 gauge) applied to the unfired glaze on stoneware pots. The glaze was an opaque white gloss, and after firing to cone 7 the copper produced the standard oxidation green, in a fairly diffuse pattern. Finding wire fine enough may be a problem. Get some flexible cable, and strip out the separate strands. (I used extra-flex from RS Components in the UK.) The difficulty was to get the bits of wire to stick to the glaze in the random pattern I wanted. Try it when the glaze is still a bit damp, and then press the bits of wire into it. Or brush some CMC on the glaze, to make it sticky. Actually it's easier if you apply it to horizontal or near-horizontal surfaces (eg the inside base of a bowl). This was in an electric kiln. Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. UK I have played around with fine copper wire too. In an electric kiln to no ill effects. Greens but also metallic oxide came through the glaze, so it would not be food safe, but on decorative pieces, or outside..... |
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