Ring resizing?

I have a ring that I made in a size 7.25 for sale; a buyer who is a
size 9 wants it.

The most I have ever stretched a ring is up to 1 full size, with a
roller stretcher. The stone, which is already set, is very unique, so
this would be my preferred option, but I am afraid that stretching it
almost 2 sizes might be too much for the sterling silver.

Does anyone have any advice on stretching?

Am I going to have to pop the stone out and sleeve some more silver
into the band?

thanks,
-stacy

Hi Stacy

It's hard to answer your question without more details or a pic of the
ring.... How thick is the band of the ring? Sterling will stretch that
far, so long as you have the thickness there and the metal is still in
an annealed state. So it will depend on how much working of the metal
you did after the last solder join...
Also, what type of setting is the stone in? Can you describe the ring
or post a pic? And what is the stone?

I'd say most likely it will be fine to resize with a roller stretcher
(DON'T attempt it with an upright wedding ring stretcher), but more
info would help us know for sure....

Tracy

On Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:40:33 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Jeweller
wrote:

Also, what type of setting is the stone in? Can you describe the ring
or post a pic? And what is the stone?

Please be advised that posting of pictures, images, HTML coded messages, or
other non simple text messages is not allowed by the group charger. My
moderating software isn't set up to correctly pass an attachment on from an
incoming message out to the newsgroup when I get an attachment to a message sent
to the group, so even if I wanted to make an exception and allow an image, the
software won't do it. So if you wish to reference a picture for a posting, the
way to do it is to post the picture to the web. There are a number of free
servers out there that will host pictures for you for free. Then you simply
include the URL to the image in your newsgroup posting. That works fine.
\
thanks.

Peter Rowe
moderator
rec.crafts.jewelry

If you do decide to resize by cutting and putting a piece in, one
finger size is equal to 1.1mm
As other posters have pointed out though, silver is a great conductor
of heat and unless your shank is very narrow, this could be risky even
with a protective paste or such. Removing the stone could also damage
the ring (or stone) depending on what the stone is and how it is
set..... we really need to know what we're advising you on.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 22:06:52 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Jeweller
wrote:

If you do decide to resize by cutting and putting a piece in, one
finger size is equal to 1.1mm

In Australian ring sizes (assumed by your addy), that's correct (I assume. but
didn't look it up...) But in U.S. sizes, one full size is 2.5 millimeters. If
one is being very precise, I think it's actually 2.54 mm... And then, since you
cut the shank open to insert the piece, you can add another .25 mm to make up
for the width of the saw cut. Again, for real precision, remember that this
length of stock is most accurately measured on the inside of the ring, at the
finger or mandrel surface. But actually measuring it on the inside is a pain in
the backside. Most people mark the ring, and the stock, on the outside surface.
For fractions of a size, or a size or even two, the result is the stock is very
slightly shorter, so the ring ends up a little bit tighter than the desired
size. That's perfect, since it allows you to clean up the solder and the
addition, and mallet the ring properly round again, and the slight stretching
that causes then gives you the desired end size. But if you're making a ring
more than maybe a size and a half, or two sizes, larger, you start to need to
measure longer than that theoretical 2.5 mm per size, or the ring will end up
significantly too small. Practice will teach you how much to adjust. The
other way to do this which avoids the math is simply to cut the shank, slide it
up a ring mandrel to the desired size, making sure the shank stays flush to the
madrel while doing this. Then use a divider to measure the resulting gap and
mark your sizing stock to cut the needed insert piece.

Peter

On Feb 13, 1:17*am, Peter W. Rowe
wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 22:06:52 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Jeweller

wrote:
If you do decide to resize by cutting and putting a piece in, one
finger size is equal to 1.1mm

In Australian ring sizes (assumed by your addy), that's correct (I assume. *but
didn't look it up...) * But in U.S. sizes, one full size is 2.5 millimeters. If
one is being very precise, I think it's actually 2.54 mm... *And then, since you
cut the shank open to insert the piece, you can add another .25 mm to make up
for the width of the saw cut. * Again, for real precision, remember that this
length of stock is most accurately measured on the inside of the ring, at the
finger or mandrel surface. *But actually measuring it on the inside is a pain in
the backside. *Most people mark the ring, and the stock, on the outside surface.
For fractions of a size, or a size or even two, the result is the stock is very
slightly shorter, so the ring ends up a little bit tighter than the desired
size. *That's perfect, since it allows you to clean up the solder and the
addition, and mallet the ring properly round again, and the slight stretching
that causes then gives you the desired end size. *But if you're making a ring
more than maybe a size and a half, or two sizes, larger, you start to need to
measure longer than that theoretical 2.5 mm per size, or the ring will end up
significantly too small. *Practice will teach you how much to adjust. * The
other way to do this which avoids the math is simply to cut the shank, slide it
up a ring mandrel to the desired size, making sure the shank stays flush to the
madrel while doing this. *Then use a divider to measure the resulting gap and
mark your sizing stock to cut the needed insert piece.

Peter







From looking at the picture you've posted, the bezel surounding the
agate is not holding the stone in place. I can see gaps on the outer
edges which means you could probably soak the ring in a product called
" Atack " and that will release the stone without hurting the agate at
all. Agates are around 71/2 on the hardness scale so you wont hurt the
the polish in any way. This would be the easiest way to approach this
job as anyone not familiar with soldering the ring in wet sand or
water most often overheats the shank and makes more problems then
they'd like.



Mark

In this here newsgroup called rec.crafts.jewelry on Wed, 11 Feb 2009
23:53:29 -0800 we all dun see'd a message a-written by Peter W. Rowe
which dun sed:

On Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:40:33 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Jeweller
wrote:

Also, what type of setting is the stone in? Can you describe the ring
or post a pic? And what is the stone?

Please be advised that posting of pictures, images, HTML coded messages, or
other non simple text messages is not allowed by the group charger. My
moderating software isn't set up to correctly pass an attachment on from an
incoming message out to the newsgroup when I get an attachment to a message sent
to the group, so even if I wanted to make an exception and allow an image, the
software won't do it. So if you wish to reference a picture for a posting, the
way to do it is to post the picture to the web. There are a number of free
servers out there that will host pictures for you for free. Then you simply
include the URL to the image in your newsgroup posting. That works fine.
\
thanks.

Peter Rowe
moderator
rec.crafts.jewelry

Peter,
Just for you & this ng, I'll set up an FTP or webpage to post pictures
for noobs and others, free of charge.
They merely have to email me their picture and any text they want with
it and I'll put it up.
It'll have to be on my halebobb.com domain though since I don't want
people to be able to find me in reality via the interweb.

Doc

On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:38:20 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Bro
wrote:


Peter,
Just for you & this ng, I'll set up an FTP or webpage to post pictures
for noobs and others, free of charge.
They merely have to email me their picture and any text they want with
it and I'll put it up.
It'll have to be on my halebobb.com domain though since I don't want
people to be able to find me in reality via the interweb.

Doc

Generous of ya. Though I doubt you'll see a flood of people taking you up on
the offer. Still, another good option for anyone who finds your offer, decodes
your email address, but doesn't find any of the other existing free sites out
there that host pictures for people. Thanks.

Peter

On Feb 11, 11:40=A0pm, Jeweller wrote:

This is a picture of the ring:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schristopher/3066126151/

The band is about 1mm thick, the stone is a moss agate, and it is
bezel-set.

I've had a couple of people comment that stretching it will probably
be fine, so I will probably try that first.

I really appreciate everyone's help!

thanks,
-stacy

Also, what type of setting is the stone in? Can you describe the ring
or post a pic? And what is the stone?

stacy c wrote:
I have a ring that I made in a size 7.25 for sale; a buyer who is a
size 9 wants it.

The most I have ever stretched a ring is up to 1 full size, with a
roller stretcher. The stone, which is already set, is very unique, so
this would be my preferred option, but I am afraid that stretching it
almost 2 sizes might be too much for the sterling silver.

Does anyone have any advice on stretching?

Am I going to have to pop the stone out and sleeve some more silver
into the band?

thanks,
-stacy


Better still, remake the ring, so the customer has a new ring, that has
not been sized, in the correct size.

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com