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#1
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Old style knitting
The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower
point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
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#2
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Old style knitting
Aaron!
I love your descrips .... you really should have a blog! Noreen -- change n e t to c o m to email/reply to me. wrote in message . net... The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
#3
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Old style knitting
This is very interesting but I'm having trouble picturing the knitting stick
and how it is secured to the needle. Could you give some more details, please. Thanks. -- Jan in MN wrote in message . net... The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
#4
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Old style knitting
See for example http://www.daelnet.co.uk/features/knitting/ksticks.htm and
http://www.daelnet.co.uk/features/knitting/clara2.htm with more detail in other photos on the site and associated text. Note that this technique can also be used for shorter DPN such as you might already have to knit socks. Aaron "The Jonathan Lady" wrote in message ... This is very interesting but I'm having trouble picturing the knitting stick and how it is secured to the needle. Could you give some more details, please. Thanks. -- Jan in MN wrote in message . net... The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
#5
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Old style knitting
You just want to see a photo of the "cable and step" socks that I am
currently knitting as worn by a "wee kilty lad"! Me too! I will be so glad when they are finished! : ) I have not set up a blog for several reasons. One is that my computer is not really set up for graphics - I bought it when I was doing database work - but really, what good is a tool if you can not modify it to meet your current needs? Therefore, I will put my nose to the grindstone, reconfigure my computer, and start a blog. So be it. Aaron "The YarnWright" wrote in message ... Aaron! I love your descrips .... you really should have a blog! Noreen -- change n e t to c o m to email/reply to me. wrote in message . net... The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
#6
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Old style knitting
YAY, Aaron!
Will you go with a publicly branded host, such as blogspot, etc, or will you host your own? I'm looking SO foreward to it! forward? foreward? lol, forewarned is forearmed? Noreen .... silly... WHO? ME??? -- change n e t to c o m to email/reply to me. wrote in message . net... You just want to see a photo of the "cable and step" socks that I am currently knitting as worn by a "wee kilty lad"! Me too! I will be so glad when they are finished! : ) I have not set up a blog for several reasons. One is that my computer is not really set up for graphics - I bought it when I was doing database work - but really, what good is a tool if you can not modify it to meet your current needs? Therefore, I will put my nose to the grindstone, reconfigure my computer, and start a blog. So be it. Aaron "The YarnWright" wrote in message ... Aaron! I love your descrips .... you really should have a blog! Noreen -- change n e t to c o m to email/reply to me. wrote in message . net... The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
#7
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Old style knitting
I had the impression (from reading a history of knitting, oh, 20 years ago)
that the arrangement for knitting these ganseys on those long steel needles involved the non-working ends of both needles being secured in leather sheathes at the hips. Perhaps I should look up the reference. Hats off to you for trying to do this--I can't imagine doing it myself. My knitting procedure involves controlling the yarn with my left hand, and doing all the "poking" with my right hand. I think I would be weeks getting up to speed. Georgia wrote in message . net... The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
#8
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Old style knitting
In article ,
wrote: The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needle stable, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. What shape is your knitting stick? I tried one with a fairly loose hold (it's really an old bobbin from a commercial knitting factory) and I can't make the needle stay in. I admit I didn't try very long. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. This is something I hadn't seen mentioned elsewhere. Clara Sedgwick was observed to knit with the working end downward; maybe that was to keep the other ends aimed upward for safety. Also, many people knitted standing up, walking around, sitting on stools, etc. The descriptions I've read mention tiny movements. Maybe if you move your left forearm as a whole with the needle, instead of moving the needle with your fingers, that might make it flail less. =Tamar |
#9
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Old style knitting
Another good reference on other knitting methods is Mary Thomas's Knitting
Book, which is back in print as a paperback and full of fun facts. However, I understand that not all the fun facts in MTKB are historically accurate. In the Yorkshire method, it was the lower end of the right needle that was secured in the knitting stick. I expect that other areas had other methods. For example, I understand that farther north, it was more common to knit on 8 or 10 shorter needles, while farther south only 5 longer needles were used. I am not sure which system was used in Yorkshire -- perhaps both? I suspect that it had to do with the weight of the yarn being used. Heavier garments were likely knit on more needles, lighter yarns could be managed on fewer needles. Then there are the knitting sticks from the continent. They are longer - was that to allow for different lengths of needles? Or, for some other reason? For example securing the left needle? (so that the left hand could control the yarn in the continental style.) Inquiring minds want to know. Aaron "Georgia" wrote in message news:18Ywf.477931$084.437533@attbi_s22... I had the impression (from reading a history of knitting, oh, 20 years ago) that the arrangement for knitting these ganseys on those long steel needles involved the non-working ends of both needles being secured in leather sheathes at the hips. Perhaps I should look up the reference. Hats off to you for trying to do this--I can't imagine doing it myself. My knitting procedure involves controlling the yarn with my left hand, and doing all the "poking" with my right hand. I think I would be weeks getting up to speed. Georgia wrote in message . net... The project is to learn to knit on too long, too thin DPN - with the lower point of the right kneedle secured in a "knitting stick" which holds the right needls stabile, and most of the stitch formation performed with the left needle. The yarn is controlled with the right hand. Why ? Becaue they claim that this was the technique used in the "old days" to knit ganzeys. Last night, I carved a knitting stick to control the lower end of the right needle, and sat down knit a fine yarn on US#1 needles. There is a learning curve. There was a tendency to knit very tightly. It was very easy to drop stitches, and since I was knitting so tightly, all the stitches below the dropped stitch would instantly pop loose right down to the cast-on with no chance of recovery. So, I tried a heavier, softer yarn on US#3 needles. Again, I was knitting much tighter than the swatch of the same yarn that I had previously knitted on #3 circular needles, and dropped stitches would ladder back disconcertingly fast. On the other hand, after a few minutes, I was knittng surprisingly fast. I think that I can learn to knit like this and there will be advantages for things like ganzeys. One real downside to this method of knitting is that the outer end of the left needle does flail, and with a long metal needle, it does damage. I am sure the saving furniture is one reason that this method of knitting was abandoned, and even worse, as I look at the damage to my knitting chair, I realize that flailing needle tip is right at eye level for a small child. Aaron |
#10
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Old style knitting
Another good reference on other knitting methods is Mary Thomas's Knitting Book, which is back in print as a paperback and full of fun facts. However, I understand that not all the fun facts in MTKB are historically accurate. In the Yorkshire method, it was the lower end of the right needle that was secured in the knitting stick. I expect that other areas had other methods. For example, I understand that farther north, it was more common to knit on 8 or 10 shorter needles, while farther south only 5 longer needles were used. I am not sure which system was used in Yorkshire -- perhaps both? I suspect that it had to do with the weight of the yarn being used. Heavier garments were likely knit on more needles, lighter yarns could be managed on fewer needles. Then there are the knitting sticks from the continent. They are longer - was that to allow for different lengths of needles? Or, for some other reason? For example securing the left needle? (so that the left hand could control the yarn in the continental style.) Inquiring minds want to know. Aaron You may want to read "The Old Hand Knitters Of The Dales". DA |
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