Wood fired Raku kiln

I recently tried my hand at wood fired raku ware to nominal success.
The problems I faced while firing were many. It rained and the wood
fuel was wet and poor quality. My fire box was too large for my firing
chamber and I did not have enough bricks for a taller chimney to create
more draft. There was no wind most of the day to add oxygen to the
firing and it reduced heavy. I was at a historical reinactment
festival and I could not just unload my propane and get down to
business. I am writing to ask if anyone has some dimensions,
suggestions or experience with a demonstration raku wood fired kiln. I
found some articles and some great dimensions for the japanese model
and I tried to base it on what I had found. However, what I found out
is that my assumptions of a a steady gust of wind gushing up the
hillside and great hardwood were just that...assumptions. I used
refactory brick instead of creating a clay permanent kiln because of
the events restrictions. If you have any imput or just want to share a
hearty laugh with me that would be great!

chad

After talking with Tom Clarke at Dakota Potters in Sioux falls South
Dakota, I think we may have figured it out. I had my design backwards.
I had a larger opening in my wood box than I had for my flue. So we
are going to reverse that around so the fire box opening is half as big
as my flue, and actually shrink my whole fire box down a little. Then,
with the key refractory brick I was using a lot of my heat was going to
heat soak those dense bricks. So I am going to change to light
refractory brick for the ware firing chamber and leave the dense brick
for the wood fire box. Just with these two tweaks I think I will be
able to atleast reach temperature. I will keep you posted.

Chad

Would love to see your design once it is up and running (pictures would be
fun too!). Enjoyed hearing of the adventure.

Donna

"The Clay Empire" wrote in message
oups.com...

After talking with Tom Clarke at Dakota Potters in Sioux falls South
Dakota, I think we may have figured it out. I had my design backwards.
I had a larger opening in my wood box than I had for my flue. So we
are going to reverse that around so the fire box opening is half as big
as my flue, and actually shrink my whole fire box down a little. Then,
with the key refractory brick I was using a lot of my heat was going to
heat soak those dense bricks. So I am going to change to light
refractory brick for the ware firing chamber and leave the dense brick
for the wood fire box. Just with these two tweaks I think I will be
able to atleast reach temperature. I will keep you posted.

Chad