If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
Didj'all git yer dang snake earl er what?
|
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
Frosty wrote:
Didj'all git yer dang snake earl er what? Yep, I did. In a small plastic container, with a secure screw top. Haven't had much of a chance to use it yet. Only once, on my gravers while making bright cuts for flush set stones. Material I was cutting, titanium and 24K Gold. So far, I see no difference with Wintergreen oil. I'll report more later. -- Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 07:23:24 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Frosty
wrote: Didj'all git yer dang snake earl er what? Yes, thank you very much. Some observations on the stuff. First, polymer or whatever, to the user, this is like grease, which liquifies when it gets warm. Like grease, it generally resists water, and like grease, gets your hands greasy. In short, it's messier to use than things like bur life or other drier lubes. In particular, I usually use the dry bur life from Rio, in a little block attached to the front of the bench. Similar to the old traditional method of a blob of beeswax stuck to the edge of the bench or side of the bench pin, you lube your sawblade just by drawing it through the stuff. No hands or fingers involved. The snake oil, though, is soft enough that you can't just stick a blob to the front of your bench, so lubing your blade generally means a fingertip in the stuff to wipe the blade, or the work. So now you've got greasy fingers. No harm done, but still a bit messy. And i'm not sure how easily the stuff is gonna wash out of my clothing if it gets fingerprinted thereon, or otherwise spread to the clothing. The jar says it can be dissolved/removed with turpentine, a cleaner I generally don't use on my laundry. Though normal hand cleaner seems to work. still... On small drill bits, it's certainlly effective. Not sure it's all that much better than the bur life or wintergreen oil, though for me, being sensative to wintergreen oil, it's better on that count (pretty much odorless, at least as compared to wintergreen) It may last a bit longer on the bit, requiring reapplication less frequently. But I've not noticed myself breaker fewer drill bits, or needing to resharpen bits significantly less often. Might be, but not so much I've noticed it as an obvious trait. On things like setting burs, though it certainly works to help the bur cut, perhaps better than bur life (the solid at least, not the paste or liquids, which seem a little better). But it's non volatile greasy nature does two things. First, there's a tendancy to pick up a bit more of the stuff than I'd like when touching the bur to the snake oil grease. Now that's fine for cutting, but it then means I've got excess grease in and around the seat for the stone I'm setting, and frankly, that doesn't help. I like a seat, especially when doing things like pave setting tiny diamonds, to remain clean, not covered with grease. makes it harder to fit the stones, and even harder to see whether they fit. On abrasives, like seperating disks, the fact that the stuff seems to stick more tenaciously to the abrasive than bur life, and doesn't evaporate when hot like some other lubes I might use, makes it superior for me. This is especially a factor using the 3M diamond sanding drums I like. These are made from the 3m diamond abrasive with all the little metal bond diamond impregnated dots all over it, and the sanding drums, while wickedly effective working especially with platinum, have a nasty tendacy to disintegrate, delaminate, loose their diamond layer or dots, etc. Odd, since the material doesn't do this in it's flat forms or larger disks and belts. Seems like curved into a small sanding drum, it's just not strong enough to withstand the "drag" of sanding, especially with tough resiliant platinum. Now, I know I'm supposed to use these with a lubricant. Water works, but makes a mess of the workbench. Fine in wet grinding setups, but not practical at my workbench. Oil works, but sprays all over, and still doesn't fix the short life span of the drums. 3M said things like bur life should work fine, and it certainly helps, but again, doesn't really stop the problem. Well, guess what. The snake oil, while also not solving the problem, does work clearly better than bur life, and doesn't so much spray all over the place. I've not used it long enough, with new drums, to really know to what extent it will prolong the life of the drums, but I'll bet it helps enough to justify having some on the bench. As with other uses, it has the downside of leaving the work covered with a bit of the grease, but in this case, I don't mind at all. So preliminarily, the stuff has a place on my bench next to the bur life. It will get used for drilling, and with abrasives including sepearting disks and my diamond abrasives. Haven't tried it with gravers yet. Much of my use of gravers is with carbide gravers, which I prefer not to use a lube with, but I expect the stuff will work nicely there too when i need it to. Peter |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 03:46:57 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry "Peter W..
Rowe," , intended to write something intelligible, but instead wrote : On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 07:23:24 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Frosty wrote: Didj'all git yer dang snake earl er what? Yes, thank you very much. Some observations on the stuff. First, polymer or whatever, to the user, this is like grease, which liquifies when it gets warm. Like grease, it generally resists water, and like grease, gets your hands greasy. In short, it's messier to use than things like bur life or other drier lubes. In particular, I usually use the dry bur life from Rio, in a little block attached to the front of the bench. Similar to the old traditional method of a blob of beeswax stuck to the edge of the bench or side of the bench pin, you lube your sawblade just by drawing it through the stuff. No hands or fingers involved. The snake oil, though, is soft enough that you can't just stick a blob to the front of your bench, so lubing your blade generally means a fingertip in the stuff to wipe the blade, or the work. So now you've got greasy fingers. No harm done, but still a bit messy. And i'm not sure how easily the stuff is gonna wash out of my clothing if it gets fingerprinted thereon, or otherwise spread to the clothing. The jar says it can be dissolved/removed with turpentine, a cleaner I generally don't use on my laundry. Though normal hand cleaner seems to work. still... On small drill bits, it's certainlly effective. Not sure it's all that much better than the bur life or wintergreen oil, though for me, being sensative to wintergreen oil, it's better on that count (pretty much odorless, at least as compared to wintergreen) It may last a bit longer on the bit, requiring reapplication less frequently. But I've not noticed myself breaker fewer drill bits, or needing to resharpen bits significantly less often. Might be, but not so much I've noticed it as an obvious trait. On things like setting burs, though it certainly works to help the bur cut, perhaps better than bur life (the solid at least, not the paste or liquids, which seem a little better). But it's non volatile greasy nature does two things. First, there's a tendancy to pick up a bit more of the stuff than I'd like when touching the bur to the snake oil grease. Now that's fine for cutting, but it then means I've got excess grease in and around the seat for the stone I'm setting, and frankly, that doesn't help. I like a seat, especially when doing things like pave setting tiny diamonds, to remain clean, not covered with grease. makes it harder to fit the stones, and even harder to see whether they fit. On abrasives, like seperating disks, the fact that the stuff seems to stick more tenaciously to the abrasive than bur life, and doesn't evaporate when hot like some other lubes I might use, makes it superior for me. This is especially a factor using the 3M diamond sanding drums I like. These are made from the 3m diamond abrasive with all the little metal bond diamond impregnated dots all over it, and the sanding drums, while wickedly effective working especially with platinum, have a nasty tendacy to disintegrate, delaminate, loose their diamond layer or dots, etc. Odd, since the material doesn't do this in it's flat forms or larger disks and belts. Seems like curved into a small sanding drum, it's just not strong enough to withstand the "drag" of sanding, especially with tough resiliant platinum. Now, I know I'm supposed to use these with a lubricant. Water works, but makes a mess of the workbench. Fine in wet grinding setups, but not practical at my workbench. Oil works, but sprays all over, and still doesn't fix the short life span of the drums. 3M said things like bur life should work fine, and it certainly helps, but again, doesn't really stop the problem. Well, guess what. The snake oil, while also not solving the problem, does work clearly better than bur life, and doesn't so much spray all over the place. I've not used it long enough, with new drums, to really know to what extent it will prolong the life of the drums, but I'll bet it helps enough to justify having some on the bench. As with other uses, it has the downside of leaving the work covered with a bit of the grease, but in this case, I don't mind at all. So preliminarily, the stuff has a place on my bench next to the bur life. It will get used for drilling, and with abrasives including sepearting disks and my diamond abrasives. Haven't tried it with gravers yet. Much of my use of gravers is with carbide gravers, which I prefer not to use a lube with, but I expect the stuff will work nicely there too when i need it to. Peter A couple of tips: When using on burs when you don't want globs of crap everywhere, just dip your bur then wipe it off. A clear, invisable coating will do ya. I keep one of those small plastic jars of it on my desk unopened. The stuff tends to dray out & stiffen up a bit. It also darkens, but it's a little easier to work with and I usually dip my finger into it & run the thin coating onto my not-running tools. You need surprisingly little of the stuff. BTW, I'm also trying it on my psoriasis...so far no changes, but with a name like Snake Oil I had to try it. It does a bang-up job as a coating for steel tools so they don't rust. Thanx for trying it. I've got 5 more little jars of it for those who might wanna give it a go. I'm not willing to mail it beyond the 50 states, but email me offlist and I'll get your name & address to the guy who makes it. He'll send you some. Frosty |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
Frosty wrote:
A couple of tips: When using on burs when you don't want globs of crap everywhere, just dip your bur then wipe it off. A clear, invisable coating will do ya. I keep one of those small plastic jars of it on my desk unopened. The stuff tends to dray out & stiffen up a bit. It also darkens, but it's a little easier to work with and I usually dip my finger into it & run the thin coating onto my not-running tools. You need surprisingly little of the stuff. BTW, I'm also trying it on my psoriasis...so far no changes, but with a name like Snake Oil I had to try it. It does a bang-up job as a coating for steel tools so they don't rust. Thanx for trying it. I've got 5 more little jars of it for those who might wanna give it a go. I'm not willing to mail it beyond the 50 states, but email me offlist and I'll get your name & address to the guy who makes it. He'll send you some. Frosty Hey, Today I received a second little jar. This one from Tennessee. I know I won't use this stuff on my saw blade any time soon again. Too clumsy. I can't just slide the blade through it, because it is in a little jar. And the stuff is not rigid enough that I can stick it against my bench, next to the bench pin. The only way to get it on the saw blade is with a finger. So now I have to clean my finger every time I want to saw after I lubed the blade. I'm sticking with spit. We'll see what it will do for drills later. -- Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Snake Oil Applicators
When Frosty put fingers to keys it was 3/7/07 1:40 AM...
... A couple of tips: When using on burs when you don't want globs of crap everywhere, just dip your bur then wipe it off. A clear, invisable coating will do ya. Sounds like a variant on the watch-repairman's gasket greasing tool is in order. It's a bit of resiliant open-cell foam that's had the greasy material in question mooshed into the foam, touch the tool to the foam, it has a light coat. Cut up one of those cheap foam paintbrushes. Choose the foam shape well and your greasy-finger days are done. Or maybe something like one of those shoe-dye dauber bottles with the foam tip. Or maybe a felt-tip pen. - Carl West |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 08:17:00 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
, intended to write something intelligible, but instead wrote : Frosty wrote: A couple of tips: When using on burs when you don't want globs of crap everywhere, just dip your bur then wipe it off. A clear, invisable coating will do ya. I keep one of those small plastic jars of it on my desk unopened. The stuff tends to dray out & stiffen up a bit. It also darkens, but it's a little easier to work with and I usually dip my finger into it & run the thin coating onto my not-running tools. You need surprisingly little of the stuff. BTW, I'm also trying it on my psoriasis...so far no changes, but with a name like Snake Oil I had to try it. It does a bang-up job as a coating for steel tools so they don't rust. Thanx for trying it. I've got 5 more little jars of it for those who might wanna give it a go. I'm not willing to mail it beyond the 50 states, but email me offlist and I'll get your name & address to the guy who makes it. He'll send you some. Frosty Hey, Today I received a second little jar. This one from Tennessee. Where'd the first one come from? I know I won't use this stuff on my saw blade any time soon again. Too clumsy. I can't just slide the blade through it, because it is in a little jar. Old dog, new tricks. You're stuck in the mindset that you need a good THICK coating on yer blade. Try leaving the lid off, and glide your finger over the surface of the stuff, then rub your finger (index) and thumb together like a fly, then put a THIN coat on yer blade. OR run a thin coat on your piece and cut thru it. You really don't need much at all. And the stuff is not rigid enough that I can stick it against my bench, next to the bench pin. The only way to get it on the saw blade is with a finger. So now I have to clean my finger every time I want to saw after I lubed the blade. I'm sticking with spit. We'll see what it will do for drills later. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 03:46:57 GMT, "Peter W.. Rowe,"
wrote: Not sure it's all that much better than the bur life or wintergreen oil, though for me, being sensative to wintergreen oil, it's better on that count (pretty much odorless, at least as compared to wintergreen) So, do you gag when you smell wintergreen? I do. And if I've eaten recently.... My mother had to switch to Juicy Fruit after I was born. -- Marilee J. Layman http://mjlayman.livejournal.com/ |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 18:44:12 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry "Marilee J. Layman"
wrote: On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 03:46:57 GMT, "Peter W.. Rowe," wrote: Not sure it's all that much better than the bur life or wintergreen oil, though for me, being sensative to wintergreen oil, it's better on that count (pretty much odorless, at least as compared to wintergreen) So, do you gag when you smell wintergreen? I do. And if I've eaten recently.... My mother had to switch to Juicy Fruit after I was born. I like the smell well enough, when brief or not too strong, or even strong as a flavor, such as in Altoids mints. Unfortunately, keeping a little tin of the "oil" open on my bench, such as I might do when using it as a lube for drills or gravers, tends to give me an unpleasant headache. Easiest solution is to simply use other lubes. Peter |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Ping: Snake Oil Recipients
Frosty wrote:
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 08:17:00 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha , intended to write something intelligible, but instead wrote : Frosty wrote: A couple of tips: When using on burs when you don't want globs of crap everywhere, just dip your bur then wipe it off. A clear, invisable coating will do ya. I keep one of those small plastic jars of it on my desk unopened. The stuff tends to dray out & stiffen up a bit. It also darkens, but it's a little easier to work with and I usually dip my finger into it & run the thin coating onto my not-running tools. You need surprisingly little of the stuff. BTW, I'm also trying it on my psoriasis...so far no changes, but with a name like Snake Oil I had to try it. It does a bang-up job as a coating for steel tools so they don't rust. Thanx for trying it. I've got 5 more little jars of it for those who might wanna give it a go. I'm not willing to mail it beyond the 50 states, but email me offlist and I'll get your name & address to the guy who makes it. He'll send you some. Frosty Hey, Today I received a second little jar. This one from Tennessee. Where'd the first one come from? I think from the manufacturer. Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Brown's Snake Oil | Frosty | Jewelry | 5 | February 22nd 07 07:39 AM |
AD: Snake Skin | Cindy Schoepp | Beads | 5 | February 15th 06 11:07 PM |
Huggers & Hug recipients & anyone that has pictures of hugs | Terbear | Quilting | 7 | April 25th 05 12:51 AM |
Recipients from fabric purge 2004 | CNYstitcher | Quilting | 1 | May 11th 04 08:26 PM |