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First Cast
Hello again, folks. Well, My first cast took two tries, so I will
describe the first try first. I filled a one-tablespoon stainless steel measuring spoon about half way full with zinc nuggets, and then I heated the spoon with a propane torch. The torch made a red spot on the side of the spoon, though the zinc did not seem to be melting. In retrospect, I was a little too worried that the zinc might go up in smoke, and I ended up pulling the spoon out of the flame periodically. Anyway, I finally grew impatient, so I whacked the spoon upside down on my workboard, in an attempt to get the metal, which at that point I mistakenly thought was unmelted, out of the spoon. Now I found myself scrambling to scrape the rapidly freezing metal into a single glob with the spoon. I had succeeded in turning one half spoonfull of nuggets into a single nugget! After this learning experience, I concluded that if I had just used a more robust mold to begin with, it would have been more natural for me to have banged the spoon against the mold, instead of on the workboard. I broke my stone tile into two pieces, and then I looked for voids. I didn't really expect to see any, but then I am no stone expert either. I continued breaking it into about six pieces altogether, each time looking for air pockets within the stone. I found none. I assembled the stone into a mold, with the straight cut edges towards the inside. Then I filled the spoon to the brim with freash nuggets, and heated it again until the zinc itself was red hot, and gave it a tap when I knocked it into the mold. It turned out okay. I have a web cam, though I will need to find the disc with the software that goes with the camera. Anyway, I have been working the arrowhead with a fine-toothed flat file, and it is looking good. It could use a hot dip treatment I'm sure, but I don't have the ability to do that just yet. The next thing I will do is to acquire a two tablespoon capacity measuring spoon for the next melt, for which I will make a bigger mold. Eventually, I suppose I will have to start calling my casts "spear heads", I suppose. Oh yes, this is my first cast ever. I am a happy camper. Mike Mandaville the Austin hill country Willie Nelson land |
#2
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First Cast
On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:26:59 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Muso
wrote: I filled a one-tablespoon stainless steel measuring spoon about half way full with zinc nuggets, and then I heated the spoon with a propane torch. The torch made a red spot on the side of the spoon, though the zinc did not seem to be melting. Mike, it occurs to me to wonder if you're doing any research reading prior to your experiments? If you had, you might have recognized that zinc, like lead, like aluminum, or a number of other metals more reactive than gold or silver, for oxide "dross" films quickly when melting. Even though the metal in the spoon quickly melted, what you saw on the outside was a mess of zinc oxide. It doesn't melt, so it completely hides what may be happening underneath to the non-oxidized metal. To some degree, this is unavoidable, since the grains/nuggets will already have this on the surface, and when they melt, that rises to the top. Before pouring, you'll want to brush off that mess so you're only pouring molten metal, not lots of mixed in oxide crud too. Another fix is to use a melting flux. Ordinary soft soldering acid flux, such as plumbers use would do the trick just fine, And if you use a softer flame, and actually hold the flame over the metal, the reducing atmospher of the flame itself (the part of the flame past the inner blue cone, but still within the glowing part of the flame, not way past where it's just very hot gases), that part of the flame has little oxygen, so the metal stays cleaner during melting. By the way, using clean zinc grain to begin with, unlike what you get from murdering pennies, would drastically reduce the amount of oxide crud you have to deal with... (grin) Peter |
#3
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First Cast
On Apr 19, 12:35*am, Peter W. Rowe
wrote: On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:26:59 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Muso wrote: I filled a one-tablespoon stainless steel measuring spoon about half way full with zinc nuggets, and then I heated the spoon with a propane torch. *The torch made a red spot on the side of the spoon, though the zinc did not seem to be melting. Mike, it occurs to me to wonder if you're doing any research reading prior to your experiments? *If you had, you might have recognized that zinc, like lead, like aluminum, or a number of other metals more reactive than gold or silver, for oxide "dross" films quickly when melting. *Even though the metal in the spoon quickly melted, what you saw on the outside was a mess of zinc oxide. *It doesn't melt, so it completely hides what may be happening underneath to the non-oxidized metal. * Hello again, Peter. I have the book "The Charcoal Foundry", by Dave Gingery, and the book does mention about the dross. I was holding the torch with my left hand, though, and the spoon with my right hand, and I wasn't sure how much working time I had to work with, so I just put the metal in the mold dross and all. I've decided to build a holder for my torch, though, now that it is clear to me that such a holder will be useful. I probably will build a holder for my new three- tablespoon capacity stainless steel ladle, also. To some degree, this is unavoidable, since the grains/nuggets will already have this on the surface, and when they melt, that rises to the top. *Before pouring, you'll want to brush off that mess so you're only pouring molten metal, not lots of mixed in oxide crud too. Yes, I worked on that arrow head for a long time with my file, but I still ended up with some pits and cracks. I think that with practice, though, I should be able to get much better results. I ended up with a good functional arrow head, but from an appearance standpoint, not so hot. Another fix is to use a melting flux. * Ordinary soft soldering acid flux, such as plumbers use would do the trick just fine, *And if you use a softer flame, and actually hold the flame over the metal, the reducing atmospher of the flame itself (the part of the flame past the inner blue cone, but still within the glowing part of the flame, not way past where it's just very hot gases), that part of the flame has little oxygen, so the metal stays cleaner during melting. I think that my mother must have remembered me joking about Twenty Mule Team Borax, because we now have some in the laundry room. I've been melting outdoors after sundown, by the way, so I can see the flame better, as well as the red glow from the grain and nuggets, which I did seperate, by the way, just to see what I had. Gingery covers the matter of an oxidizing verses a reducing atmosphere also. Right now I'm long on theory, but short on experience. By the way, using clean zinc grain to begin with, unlike what you get from murdering pennies, would drastically reduce the amount of oxide crud you have to deal with... *(grin) Yes, in the long run I will need to find an alternative source for zinc. Interestingly, I recently was able to recall purchasing some zinc from a jeweler, which I don't recall ever melting, but I remember finding some pieces of unmelted copper from pennies in the metal. I had forgotten completely about this until recently. Peter * I bought some beeswax today, and some silica sand to add to my fireclay. In retrospect, it looks like I already had some sand, but it is so fine-grained that I thought it was clay. I now have three hundred pounds of sand, and fifty pounds of fireclay. Later, I will get some coarse silica sand, and some bentonite clay. Mike Mandaville Bee Cave, Texas they are actually bat caves we have millions of bats in the neighborhood and plenty of buzzards |
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First Cast
On Wed, 22 Apr 2009 00:26:48 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Muso
wrote: Hello again, Peter. I have the book "The Charcoal Foundry", by Dave Gingery, and the book does mention about the dross. I was holding the torch with my left hand, though, and the spoon with my right hand, and I wasn't sure how much working time I had to work with, so I just put the metal in the mold dross and all. I've decided to build a holder for my torch, though, now that it is clear to me that such a holder will be useful. I probably will build a holder for my new three- tablespoon capacity stainless steel ladle, also. Larger quantities help. Also, as I've mentioned before, especially with your fairly low tech melting/casting facilties, you'll have much better resuts with tin based alloy, rather than zinc. That means, essentially, pewter, which generally is essentially pure tin, with a trace of antimony an/or copper to slightly harden it. melting temps are similar to zinc, and the cost is not very different either, but it melts and casts a LOT more easily. It's routine for those metalsmiths working with pewter to melt it in fairly informal equipment, even down to just melting it in a tin can over a hot stove. (steel can. Stainless seamless pot works better) can be cast into molds made of wood (limited use, but it's a classic for pewter workers needing to make the cast handles for pewter teapots and the like), or well dried plaster of paris (fine for pewter, not good for higher melting metals, where you can use the similar looking, but temperature resisting, casting investments used for lost wax casting.), not to mention sand molds, or almost anything else you can dream up that won't burn quickly. As I've mentioned before, one good source for white metals for casting (or in sheet and wire), including but not limited to pewter, is the Contenti company (www.contenti.com). Yes, I worked on that arrow head for a long time with my file, but I still ended up with some pits and cracks. I think that with practice, though, I should be able to get much better results. I ended up with a good functional arrow head, but from an appearance standpoint, not so hot. The zinc not only incorporated the mixed in cross, but also likely absorbed a good deal of atmospheric gasses, which also leads to pits and pinholes galore. Again, this is another area where pewter or other tine alloys are far superior. As far as "functional", well, I'd assume you mean in terms of visual shape. I doubt a zinc arrowhead would work so well at the end of an actual arrow. Too soft... I think that my mother must have remembered me joking about Twenty Mule Team Borax, because we now have some in the laundry room. 20 mule team borax is a great way to buy the stuff cheap. But note that borax is best as a flux for higher melting alloys, like brass, bronze, silver, gold, etc. It isn't the right stuff for tin, zinc, or lead alloys. They melt at too low a temp, before the borax becomes properly effective. Right now I'm long on theory, but short on experience. Books are a great way to start. So is actual experience, especially making mistakes. Reading the books carefully, though, and not then ignoring what they say, can help minimize the frequency and pain of the mistakes... I bought some beeswax today, and some silica sand to add to my fireclay. In retrospect, it looks like I already had some sand, but it is so fine-grained that I thought it was clay. I now have three hundred pounds of sand, and fifty pounds of fireclay. Later, I will get some coarse silica sand, and some bentonite clay. Sounds like you're on your way to doing large sculptural sized sand castings. You might have to learn how to melt bronze at that rate... (grin) Cheers Peter Rowe |
#5
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First Cast
On Apr 22, 12:40*am, Peter W. Rowe
wrote: On Wed, 22 Apr 2009 00:26:48 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Muso wrote: Hello again, Peter. *I have the book "The Charcoal Foundry", by Dave Gingery, and the book does mention about the dross. *I was holding the torch with my left hand, though, and the spoon with my right hand, and I wasn't sure how much working time I had to work with, so I just put the metal in the mold dross and all. *I've decided to build a holder for my torch, though, now that it is clear to me that such a holder will be useful. *I probably will build a holder for my new three- tablespoon capacity stainless steel ladle, also. Larger quantities help. *Also, as I've mentioned before, especially with your fairly low tech melting/casting facilties, you'll have much better resuts with tin based alloy, rather than zinc. *That means, essentially, pewter, which generally is essentially pure tin, with a trace of antimony an/or copper to slightly harden it. *melting temps are similar to zinc, and the cost is not very different either, but it melts and casts a LOT more easily. *It's routine for those metalsmiths working with pewter to melt it in fairly informal equipment, even down to just melting it in a tin can over a hot stove. *(steel can. Stainless seamless pot works better) *can be cast into molds made of wood (limited use, but it's a classic for pewter workers needing to make the cast handles for pewter teapots and the like), or well dried plaster of paris (fine for pewter, not good for higher melting metals, where you can use the similar looking, but temperature resisting, casting investments used for lost wax casting.), not to mention sand molds, or almost anything else you can dream up that won't burn quickly. * As I've mentioned before, one good source for white metals for casting (or in sheet and wire), including but not limited to pewter, is the Contenti company (www.contenti.com). Hello again, Peter. As you know, I like to use scrap metal, and if I wanted a refined metal, I would do the job myself. My point of view about this has not changed. I don't expect that I would find very much scrap tin around, though, since tin is outrageously expensive anyway. Scrap zinc is available, though, and for tool making zinc is better than tin regardless. Yes, I worked on that arrow head for a long time with my file, but I still ended up with some pits and cracks. *I think that with practice, though, I should be able to get much better results. *I ended up with a good functional arrow head, but from an appearance standpoint, not so hot. The zinc not only incorporated the mixed in cross, but also likely absorbed a good deal of atmospheric gasses, which also leads to pits and pinholes galore. Again, this is another area where pewter or other tine alloys are far superior Peter, that you would consider pewter superior to zinc for an arrowhead is amusing to me. I see no reason why a functional arrowhead could not be made from pewter, but that such an arrowhead should be superior to zinc? I don't think so. As far as "functional", well, I'd assume you mean in terms of visual shape. *I doubt a zinc arrowhead would work so well at the end of an actual arrow. But pewter would? You have offered no reason that I can see. *Too soft... And pewter is harder than zinc? I don't follow your reasoning. I think that my mother must have remembered me joking about Twenty Mule Team Borax, because we now have some in the laundry room. 20 mule team borax is a great way to buy the stuff cheap. *But note that borax is best as a flux for higher melting alloys, like brass, bronze, silver, gold, etc. *It isn't the right stuff for tin, zinc, or lead alloys. Okay, well, I'll remember that then. *They melt at too low a temp, before the borax becomes properly effective. Right now I'm long on theory, but short on experience. Books are a great way to start. *So is actual experience, especially making mistakes. *Reading the books carefully, though, and not then ignoring what they say, can help minimize the frequency and pain of the mistakes... My "mistakes" have not been painful. The first cast was not meant to be perfect, though I could easily make it that way. I'm just ready to move on. Today I bought some wood and string to weigh out the sand to make the mold to cast my first spear head. I bought some beeswax today, and some silica sand to add to my fireclay. *In retrospect, it looks like I already had some sand, but it is so fine-grained that I thought it was clay. *I now have three hundred pounds of sand, and fifty pounds of fireclay. *Later, I will get some coarse silica sand, and some bentonite clay. Sounds like you're on your way to doing large sculptural sized sand castings. You might have to learn how to melt bronze at that rate... (grin) Cheers Peter Rowe Actually, the quantity is misleading. The sand is so fine-grained (60 mesh to 80 mesh) that I was unsure that it was even sand at all. I could have just added water, of course, but, anyway, when I went back for another bag, the worker threw in an extra third bag, which was just as difficult to unload as the second. Anyway, I am making progress, and I am happy. I will not be moving on to brass for awhile, though I am interested in lost wax. Mike Mandaville Bee Cave, Texas |
#6
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First Cast
On Sun, 26 Apr 2009 10:16:05 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Muso
wrote: Hello again, Peter. As you know, I like to use scrap metal, and if I wanted a refined metal, I would do the job myself. My point of view about this has not changed. I don't expect that I would find very much scrap tin around, though, since tin is outrageously expensive anyway. Scrap zinc is available, though, and for tool making zinc is better than tin regardless. Not being a toolmaker, at least in that sense (when I'm making tools for my own use, it's usually from steel), I'll take your word for it. But from curiosity, why? Peter, that you would consider pewter superior to zinc for an arrowhead is amusing to me. I see no reason why a functional arrowhead could not be made from pewter, but that such an arrowhead should be superior to zinc? I don't think so. I didn't say it would be superior to zinc as an arrowhead. I said the pewter would be easier to get a good, porosity free casting from. That's all. Remember, my approach to this is to objects used as decorative items, so the quality of the casting affects the visual appeal. That's the main focus of my statement. As far as "functional", well, I'd assume you mean in terms of visual shape. *I doubt a zinc arrowhead would work so well at the end of an actual arrow. But pewter would? You have offered no reason that I can see. Again, no I didn't mean that pewter would make a better actual arrowhead. I meant that making a decorative arrowhead, or spearpoint, or whatever, would be easier in pewter, since you get a better casting. Frankly, I'd be surprised if either pewter or zinc could produce a usable actual arrowhead in any case. I might be wrong, of course, but I'd expect neither metal to be strong enough to withstand the sorts of impact stresses an arrowhead would need. You are right that pewter is likely to be softer than zinc, but I'd expect zinc to be too soft for a good arrowhead as well. Thus I assume the aim is for a decorative item. However, I'm not all that experienced in either making arrowheads, or functional items in zinc, so perhaps I'm wrong, and you can go hunting or target shooting with zinc arrowheads just fine. If so, have fun! *Too soft... And pewter is harder than zinc? I don't follow your reasoning. Pewter is not harder than zinc. In fact, it has the unusual property of not work hardening when you manually work it. It actually gets softer as you work it. But as I said above, my assumption is that BOTH metals are too soft for a good arrowhead. I might be wrong, of course. I make jewelry, not weapons, for the most part. The little knifemaking I've done used steels, not zinc... My "mistakes" have not been painful. The first cast was not meant to be perfect, though I could easily make it that way. I'm just ready to move on. Today I bought some wood and string to weigh out the sand to make the mold to cast my first spear head. Mistakes are not automatically painful, or even a bad thing. They're an especially effective way to learn about not just what not to do, but why not to do it. The pain comes from repeating mistakes one should have learned from, or making mistakes that could have been easily avoided. Or from making mistakes that cost an undue amount of cash... But again, experimenting and working things out for yourself are a fine and recommended way to learn. Far superior, I think, to just following instructions and learning a sequence of operations by rote, without understanding them. Please, by all means, continue to experiement. I applaud your efforts. However, do try to avoid spending too much time re-inventing the wheel... Actually, the quantity is misleading. The sand is so fine-grained (60 mesh to 80 mesh) that I was unsure that it was even sand at all. I could have just added water, of course, but, anyway, when I went back for another bag, the worker threw in an extra third bag, which was just as difficult to unload as the second. Anyway, I am making progress, and I am happy. I will not be moving on to brass for awhile, though I am interested in lost wax. That sand sounds a bit like the very fine grained sand packaged in a somewhat pricey little sand casting kit called "Delft clay" casting sand. Comes with a little mold kit. That sand too, looks very very fine grained. I think it's an oil tempered sand, but I'm not sure. Fairly easy to use, but whomever is repackaging it as "Delft clay" instead of it's original name (I've been told, but don't know, that it's the same as somethign called petrobond...) is no doubt making a good deal of cash off of jewelers not familier with commercial sand casting materials... Cheers Peter |
#7
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First Cast and subsequent casts
Muso wrote:
On Apr 19, 12:35 am, Peter W. Rowe wrote: On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:26:59 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Muso wrote: I filled a one-tablespoon stainless steel measuring spoon about half way full with zinc nuggets, and then I heated the spoon with a propane torch. The torch made a red spot on the side of the spoon, though the zinc did not seem to be melting. Mike, it occurs to me to wonder if you're doing any research reading prior to your experiments? If you had, you might have recognized that zinc, like lead, like aluminum, or a number of other metals more reactive than gold or silver, for oxide "dross" films quickly when melting. Even though the metal in the spoon quickly melted, what you saw on the outside was a mess of zinc oxide. It doesn't melt, so it completely hides what may be happening underneath to the non-oxidized metal. Hello again, Peter. I have the book "The Charcoal Foundry", by Dave Gingery, and the book does mention about the dross. I was holding the torch with my left hand, though, and the spoon with my right hand, and I wasn't sure how much working time I had to work with, so I just put the metal in the mold dross and all. I've decided to build a holder for my torch, though, now that it is clear to me that such a holder will be useful. I probably will build a holder for my new three- tablespoon capacity stainless steel ladle, also. To some degree, this is unavoidable, since the grains/nuggets will already have this on the surface, and when they melt, that rises to the top. Before pouring, you'll want to brush off that mess so you're only pouring molten metal, not lots of mixed in oxide crud too. Yes, I worked on that arrow head for a long time with my file, but I still ended up with some pits and cracks. I think that with practice, though, I should be able to get much better results. I ended up with a good functional arrow head, but from an appearance standpoint, not so hot. Another fix is to use a melting flux. Ordinary soft soldering acid flux, such as plumbers use would do the trick just fine, And if you use a softer flame, and actually hold the flame over the metal, the reducing atmospher of the flame itself (the part of the flame past the inner blue cone, but still within the glowing part of the flame, not way past where it's just very hot gases), that part of the flame has little oxygen, so the metal stays cleaner during melting. I think that my mother must have remembered me joking about Twenty Mule Team Borax, because we now have some in the laundry room. I've been melting outdoors after sundown, by the way, so I can see the flame better, as well as the red glow from the grain and nuggets, which I did seperate, by the way, just to see what I had. Gingery covers the matter of an oxidizing verses a reducing atmosphere also. Right now I'm long on theory, but short on experience. By the way, using clean zinc grain to begin with, unlike what you get from murdering pennies, would drastically reduce the amount of oxide crud you have to deal with... (grin) Yes, in the long run I will need to find an alternative source for zinc. Interestingly, I recently was able to recall purchasing some zinc from a jeweler, which I don't recall ever melting, but I remember finding some pieces of unmelted copper from pennies in the metal. I had forgotten completely about this until recently. Peter I bought some beeswax today, and some silica sand to add to my fireclay. In retrospect, it looks like I already had some sand, but it is so fine-grained that I thought it was clay. I now have three hundred pounds of sand, and fifty pounds of fireclay. Later, I will get some coarse silica sand, and some bentonite clay. Mike Mandaville Bee Cave, Texas they are actually bat caves we have millions of bats in the neighborhood and plenty of buzzards Hi Misco, Good to see your making progress. Are your arrow heads for use? or just decorative? A couple of suggestions for you. 1. Re zinc supplies. Are you near any scrap merchants? because they may have the following, Printers type Zinc rainwater goods ie guttering down pipes I understand that in the S USA zinc has long been used for this type of work. Plumbers solder, the type used to join lead pipes together. This is 40% tin and 60% lead. Good casting metal. And die cast car fittings. door handles etc. 2. Re melting generally, with a propane torch. You need to build a 4 legged stand with a propane burner under the top frame. This can be 6 in by 6in with a s/steel mesh say 1in sq by 1/8 thich wires with a hole cut in the middle to hold a cast iron or stainless steel long handled half round bowl. thats what Ive used for a project recently. You will also need an outrigger support for the handle. When you have say 1 to 2lbs of metal melting in the bowl its gets unstable and heavy. the propane torch is 2in dia fed from a regulator on a 47kg propane tank. We call them cylinders here in the UK. What is important about this set up is that a big flame will heat the bowl from the underside AND from the top. You try it, As the flame encloses the whole of the bowl,and the metal , it curls over the bowl top and down into and onto the metal, so reducing the oxidation of the melt. Hope this helps keep us posted Ted Dorset UK |
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First Cast and subsequent casts
On Apr 22, 7:19*pm, Ted Frater wrote:
Muso wrote: On Apr 19, 12:35 am, Peter W. Rowe wrote: On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:26:59 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Muso wrote: I filled a one-tablespoon stainless steel measuring spoon about half way full with zinc nuggets, and then I heated the spoon with a propane torch. *The torch made a red spot on the side of the spoon, though the zinc did not seem to be melting. Mike, it occurs to me to wonder if you're doing any research reading prior to your experiments? *If you had, you might have recognized that zinc, like lead, like aluminum, or a number of other metals more reactive than gold or silver, for oxide "dross" films quickly when melting. *Even though the metal in the spoon quickly melted, what you saw on the outside was a mess of zinc oxide. *It doesn't melt, so it completely hides what may be happening underneath to the non-oxidized metal. * Hello again, Peter. *I have the book "The Charcoal Foundry", by Dave Gingery, and the book does mention about the dross. *I was holding the torch with my left hand, though, and the spoon with my right hand, and I wasn't sure how much working time I had to work with, so I just put the metal in the mold dross and all. *I've decided to build a holder for my torch, though, now that it is clear to me that such a holder will be useful. *I probably will build a holder for my new three- tablespoon capacity stainless steel ladle, also. To some degree, this is unavoidable, since the grains/nuggets will already have this on the surface, and when they melt, that rises to the top. *Before pouring, you'll want to brush off that mess so you're only pouring molten metal, not lots of mixed in oxide crud too. Yes, I worked on that arrow head for a long time with my file, but I still ended up with some pits and cracks. *I think that with practice, though, I should be able to get much better results. *I ended up with a good functional arrow head, but from an appearance standpoint, not so hot. Another fix is to use a melting flux. * Ordinary soft soldering acid flux, such as plumbers use would do the trick just fine, *And if you use a softer flame, and actually hold the flame over the metal, the reducing atmospher of the flame itself (the part of the flame past the inner blue cone, but still within the glowing part of the flame, not way past where it's just very hot gases), that part of the flame has little oxygen, so the metal stays cleaner during melting. I think that my mother must have remembered me joking about Twenty Mule Team Borax, because we now have some in the laundry room. *I've been melting outdoors after sundown, by the way, so I can see the flame better, as well as the red glow from the grain and nuggets, which I did seperate, by the way, just to see what I had. *Gingery covers the matter of an oxidizing verses a reducing atmosphere also. *Right now I'm long on theory, but short on experience. By the way, using clean zinc grain to begin with, unlike what you get from murdering pennies, would drastically reduce the amount of oxide crud you have to deal with... *(grin) Yes, in the long run I will need to find an alternative source for zinc. *Interestingly, I recently was able to recall purchasing some zinc from a jeweler, which I don't recall ever melting, but I remember finding some pieces of unmelted copper from pennies in the metal. *I had forgotten completely about this until recently. Peter * I bought some beeswax today, and some silica sand to add to my fireclay. *In retrospect, it looks like I already had some sand, but it is so fine-grained that I thought it was clay. *I now have three hundred pounds of sand, and fifty pounds of fireclay. *Later, I will get some coarse silica sand, and some bentonite clay. Mike Mandaville Bee Cave, Texas they are actually bat caves we have millions of bats in the neighborhood and plenty of buzzards Hi Misco, Good to see your making progress. Are your arrow heads for use? Hello again, Ted. In retrospect, my first arrowhead was only for casting practice. The reason I say this is because since I only have just so much zinc to melt down now, I will be melting down my first arrowhead to become part of my first spearhead, for which I have now carved the wax model. or just decorative? A couple of suggestions for you. * 1. Re zinc supplies. Are you near any scrap merchants? Yes, and I have been studying yje metal scrap market. * because they may have the following, Printers type I bought twenty-five pounds of burnt line-o-type metal locally. Zinc rainwater goods ie guttering *down pipes I understand that in the S USA zinc has long been used for this type of work. Plumbers solder, the type used to join lead pipes together. * This is 40% tin and 60% lead. * Good casting metal. And die cast car fittings. door handles etc. 2. Re melting generally, with a propane torch. You need to build a 4 legged stand with a propane burner under the top frame. * This can be 6 in by 6in with a s/steel mesh say 1in *sq by 1/8 thich wires with a hole cut in the middle to hold a cast iron or stainless steel long handled half round bowl. thats what Ive used for a project recently. You will also need an outrigger support for the handle. When you have say 1 to 2lbs of metal melting in the bowl its gets unstable and heavy. I might be moving to yet a third ladle after my first melt with the second. I will be building such a stand eventually, though, one way or another. I also found a small charcoal brazier which I will be getting eventually. * the propane torch is 2in dia fed from a regulator on a 47kg propane tank. We call them cylinders here in the UK. What is important about this set up is that a big flame will heat the bowl from the underside AND from the top. You try it, As the flame encloses the whole of the bowl,and the metal , it curls over the bowl top and down into and onto the metal, so reducing the oxidation of the melt. Hope this helps Yes, it does. I probably will eventually be getting a swirl torch. keep us posted I certainly will. Ted * Dorset * UK When it comes to metalworking, you Brits know your stuff. |
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