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Jewellers Table
What is the ideal height for a Jewellers table? My estimate is about 750mm
(29.5 inches) from the floow to the top of the work surface. Any opinions? |
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#2
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"Michael" wrote in message ... What is the ideal height for a Jewellers table? My estimate is about 750mm (29.5 inches) from the floow to the top of the work surface. It depends on you. You need to be able to rest your elbows on the edge of the table half circle cut out and reach the peg with your hands and not get back ache after an hour or so. Mine sits at about 33", but I've got short legs... I've also get a normal work bench at 30" for doing non detail heavy stuff. -- William Black I've seen things you people wouldn't believe Barbeques on fire by chalets past the headland I've watched the gift shops glitter in the darkness off Newborough All this will pass like ice-cream on the beach Time for tea |
#3
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Michael wrote:
What is the ideal height for a Jewellers table? My estimate is about 750mm (29.5 inches) from the floow to the top of the work surface. Any opinions? Whatever fits you. My bench is 29" with a 25.5" pull-out shelf I use for soldering. (I am 5"11' with short legs and a long torso.) --RC |
#4
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I saw an earlier post "Jewelers Desk Question" where they are recommending
34" to 39". I appreciate the advice on whatever suits... so I gues being 6'8" means mine will be a little taller Thanks Michael |
#5
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On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 09:57:55 -0700, in @ő "Michael"
wrote: What is the ideal height for a Jewellers table? My estimate is about 750mm (29.5 inches) from the floow to the top of the work surface. Any opinions? The jewelers benches sold commercially in the U.S. generally have top heights of from 34 to 39 inches, with the cheaper benches, those with fewer trays and drawers and the like under the bench pin, being the lower tops, while the more costly or complex benches usually are closer to the 39 inch height. But if you're building your own, you can make it to fit. My own bench is slightly higher, at 41 inches, but that was a decision that was more based on the dimensions of the lumber I had at hand when I built the thing in my student apartment living room with nothing but a portable circular saw, router, and electric drill. (It's not the best bench, but it's sturdy, has lots of only slightly skewed drawers, disassembles when needed to move, and is, at 8 feet wide (the length of the plywood) a lot bigger than commercial benches, so I still use the thing. I'm used to it. Some day when I'm rich (my next life) I'll trade it for one of John Frei's (Frei and Borel, http://www.ottofrei.com/store/home.php?cat=358 ) wonderful benches... Go study their web site. it's not a bad image to start with for examples, if building a bench) Start, however, with the height of your lap when you're sitting in a chair with your feet comfortably flat on the ground and your theighs level and relaxed and all that jazz. The pull out lap drawer for filings and tools, cannot be lower than this for you to sit comfortably. (not a precise measurement, of course, if you're building the traditional european style, which uses a leather catch, rather than the metal lined tray type. But anyway. Then, your workbench top needs to be high enough so that no only can you comfortably saw things on the bench pin (work at a comfortable distance to see clearly without hunching over too much), but there should be enough distance between a catch drawer and the bench pin to allow for the size of your saw frame or other tools that, in use, will extend below the bench pin, along with your hand. Most commercial benches seem to aim for a top height at about the level of the bottom edge of your sternum, or so it's seemed to me. But you can vary this to your needs. If you will do a lot of very tiny work, and will need to be closer to it, such as some types of stone setting work, then you may wish the bench top to be heigher. If you're doing larger work like silver holloware, and will be using larger files and tools on larger work, then perhaps a lower bench may be better for you. Once built, you can always if you need, put the bench up on wood blocks to raise it a bit, or cut a bit off the legs to lower it, but you won't be so easily able to change the distance between the top and the catch tray, so be careful to give yourself enough clearance here for comfort, keeping in mind that it's common to have some tools (often sharp) sitting in that tray while working, and it's annoying to work with a bench that's got so little clearance between bench pin and catch tray that your hand is bouncing off sharp tools while you saw something out. cheers Peter Rowe |
#6
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Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 09:57:55 -0700, in @ő "Michael" wrote: What is the ideal height for a Jewellers table? My estimate is about 750mm (29.5 inches) from the floow to the top of the work surface. Any opinions? Some day when I'm rich (my next life) Won't happen, there is no such thing as a next life. You only got this one. Make it happen now. I'll trade it for one of John Frei's (Frei and Borel, http://www.ottofrei.com/store/home.php?cat=358 ) They're no longer called Frei & Borel, it's Otto Frei now. The pull out lap drawer for filings and tools, cannot be lower than this for you to sit comfortably. The drawers are a bad invention and idea. Because people put their tools in them (especially files), they lose literally hundreds if not thousands of dollars a year in filings. And precious stones, when they fall, often bounce out of the drawer which invariably leads to time spent on all four on the floor. if you're building the traditional european style, which uses a leather catch, rather than the metal lined tray type. This is the way to go. I have three benches. One for gold, one for platinum, and one for everything else. On two of them I have leather skins, and on one, which was not made after my own design, I have one of those atrocious trays, I shamefully admit. I have just never gotten around replacing it with a leather skin. Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com |
#7
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"Abrasha" wrote in message ... The drawers are a bad invention and idea. Because people put their tools in them (especially files), they lose literally hundreds if not thousands of dollars a year in filings. And precious stones, when they fall, often bounce out of the drawer which invariably leads to time spent on all four on the floor. I'm inclined to agree. You bang your knees as well. My tools live in my tool box on my bench when not in use. However a good quality wooden toolbox with drawers costs more than a bench these days... Mine is like the one shown he http://www.gerstnerusa.com/toolchests/52.htm But without the top hinged compartment. Steel tool boxes are a great way to blunt tools... -- William Black I've seen things you people wouldn't believe Barbeques on fire by chalets past the headland I've watched the gift shops glitter in the darkness off Newborough All this will pass like ice-cream on the beach Time for tea |
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