OT ping Noreen

since you are a carpenter's wife... what is the best stuff to
use to refinish pine floors?
the previous owners of my house used the world's cheapest
poly (i think). at any rate, it's worn or peeled off most of
the floors.
originally (in the mid-1800s) i think the floors were
painted, but i doubt that would fly with modern buyers, who
have that whole wide pine floor romance thing going on...
do you or Don have any suggestions, as i plan to strip all
the tacky wallpaper & repaint the interior, & the floors need
help too.
lee and all the wood trim has alligatoring dark varnish. ick
--
Question with boldness even the existence of god; because if
there be
one, he must more approve the homage of reason than that of
blindfolded
fear. - Thomas Jefferson

That makes 2 of us that would like to know!!!!!


JJMolvik (lil' sis')

"enigma" wrote in message
. ..
since you are a carpenter's wife... what is the best stuff to
use to refinish pine floors?
the previous owners of my house used the world's cheapest
poly (i think). at any rate, it's worn or peeled off most of
the floors.
originally (in the mid-1800s) i think the floors were
painted, but i doubt that would fly with modern buyers, who
have that whole wide pine floor romance thing going on...
do you or Don have any suggestions, as i plan to strip all
the tacky wallpaper & repaint the interior, & the floors need
help too.
lee and all the wood trim has alligatoring dark varnish. ick
--
Question with boldness even the existence of god; because if
there be
one, he must more approve the homage of reason than that of
blindfolded
fear. - Thomas Jefferson

enigma wrote:
since you are a carpenter's wife... what is the best stuff to
use to refinish pine floors?
the previous owners of my house used the world's cheapest
poly (i think). at any rate, it's worn or peeled off most of
the floors.
originally (in the mid-1800s) i think the floors were
painted, but i doubt that would fly with modern buyers, who
have that whole wide pine floor romance thing going on...
do you or Don have any suggestions, as i plan to strip all
the tacky wallpaper & repaint the interior, & the floors need
help too.
lee and all the wood trim has alligatoring dark varnish. ick
I am not a carpenter but, we just had our floors done about 8 months
ago. We used "VERTHAN" brand. They have several grades, ours I believe
was called "DIAMOND" from Menard. It was not cheap it is 35.99 a gallon.

I have a walker and Gail is in a wheel chair all day long. we got the
semi-gloss and we love it. The stuff wears.

The main thing with polyurethane is the floor must be completely
stripped and dust free. It is the only product you need. If sanded
clean and made sure the surface is dust free and anything else you
should not have a problem with Polyurethane. Again, the old finish or
finishes must be completely sanded away and and lint and dust free
before the application.

Let me know if you tackle it.

Hugs & God bless,
Dennis & Gail

enigma wrote:
since you are a carpenter's wife... what is the best stuff to
use to refinish pine floors?
the previous owners of my house used the world's cheapest
poly (i think). at any rate, it's worn or peeled off most of
the floors.
originally (in the mid-1800s) i think the floors were
painted, but i doubt that would fly with modern buyers, who
have that whole wide pine floor romance thing going on...
do you or Don have any suggestions, as i plan to strip all
the tacky wallpaper & repaint the interior, & the floors need
help too.
lee and all the wood trim has alligatoring dark varnish. ick
If you want to make sure the floor is sealed. I have used this sanding
sealer on desk tops and other wood project. I used to do a lot of wood
work. Put this on after you clean up from sanding and before you use
the polyurethane, it gets expensive if you use quality products. I have
been told the premium grade polyurethane from "MINWAX" is fine also.

http://www.minwax.com/products/woodprep/sand-seal.cfm

Notice I have stated the premium grade in what ever polyurethane you
pick. Most brands have two or more grades of poly.

Hugs & God bless,
Dennis & Gail

enigma wrote:
since you are a carpenter's wife... what is the best stuff to
use to refinish pine floors?
the previous owners of my house used the world's cheapest
poly (i think). at any rate, it's worn or peeled off most of
the floors.
originally (in the mid-1800s) i think the floors were
painted, but i doubt that would fly with modern buyers, who
have that whole wide pine floor romance thing going on...
do you or Don have any suggestions, as i plan to strip all
the tacky wallpaper & repaint the interior, & the floors need
help too.
lee and all the wood trim has alligatoring dark varnish. ick
One more url to look at.

It works to read this one.
http://www.minwax.com/how-to/basics/

Dennis

enigma spun a FINE 'yarn':

since you are a carpenter's wife... what is the best stuff to
use to refinish pine floors?
the previous owners of my house used the world's cheapest
poly (i think). at any rate, it's worn or peeled off most of
the floors.
originally (in the mid-1800s) i think the floors were
painted, but i doubt that would fly with modern buyers, who
have that whole wide pine floor romance thing going on...
do you or Don have any suggestions, as i plan to strip all
the tacky wallpaper & repaint the interior, & the floors need
help too.
lee and all the wood trim has alligatoring dark varnish. ick
end quoted

Lee,
Stripping the hardwood floors is best done with a drum-sander, which
you can rent from Lowes, RAC, etc.
Pine will always yellow, and the old shellack-y stuff they used to use
made it orangier/yellower than ever... there are poly's now that are
water-based and guaranteed to dry CLEAR,not yellow.
We prefer minwax brand for stains if your floors and trims need new
colour. REMEMBER tho that if you're dealing with PINE, the samples at
Lowes, Menards, Home Depot, etc are always on OAK and will come up
different.
As for stripping wallpater, score it, and spray it with a product
called DIF. Let it sit, the surfectants' in "DIF" will help keep it
wet, and the scoring will help get under the old paper. A wide putty
knife will do the trick for removal. After stripping, wash the walls
down with a vingar/water mix to clean up the last vestiges of the
gumminess. Use a GOOOOOD primer before painting. We like Zinnser.
We've also resorted to Kilz as a primer.
HTH,
Noreen
email me offlist if you need more, we're happy to he'p!


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In article ,
enigma wrote:
since you are a carpenter's wife... what is the best stuff to
use to refinish pine floors?
the previous owners of my house used the world's cheapest
poly (i think). at any rate, it's worn or peeled off most of
the floors.
originally (in the mid-1800s) i think the floors were
painted, but i doubt that would fly with modern buyers, who
have that whole wide pine floor romance thing going on...

It's the mid-1800s floor? It probably was waxed or oiled
at some point. According to what I've heard, the remaining
oil will make any polyurethane peel off. Maybe if it's dried
out enough since then, one of the sealers will work and then
you can put clear polyurethane over it.

i plan to strip all the tacky wallpaper & repaint the
interior, & the floors need help too.
lee and all the wood trim has alligatoring dark varnish. ick

But read the Yarn Harlot's blog first
http://www.yarnharlot.ca/blog/

She just redid her bedroom floor that was about the same age
and still had paint on it. Remember to read the comments
too, since there is a lot of good advice in them about doing
the walls (and ceilings if you do them) first, then taping
plastic drop cloths over the doors, removing the baseboards,
sanding between coats of polyurethane, etc.

Pine is soft. I grew up in a house with new pine floors that
were probably varnished but may even have been shellacked.
Whatever it was, it wore off after about six years and had
to be redone, and was very yellow.

=Tamar

Spike Driver wrote in
:
Notice I have stated the premium grade in what ever
polyurethane you pick. Most brands have two or more grades
of poly.

thanks Dennis. i think the people i bought the house from did
a lot of really cheap 'sprucing up' to make it pretty for
sale.
the floors started peeling (along with all the wallpaper)
after a year. the exterior paint is also peeling now & i can
see it was put on too thickly over weathered wood.
the garage is not only peeling, but the incorrectly
installed, cheapo pine siding is rotting badly...
oh, & the 150' driveway, going uphill, was also done
incorrectly (no base whatsoever, just cheap paving over dirt &
an improperly set culvert at the bottom). i've estimates of
$10,000 to remove & replace correctly. gah!
lee & money pit
--
Question with boldness even the existence of god; because if
there be
one, he must more approve the homage of reason than that of
blindfolded
fear. - Thomas Jefferson

May I butt in on the subject of the speed (or lack thereof) of the
Yarn Harlot's bedroom redo?

If you're being paid to do a job, it means that you're there for one
purpose: to work. She redid that room almost singlehandedly while
still running a household full of teenage girls - cooking, cleaning,
doing laundry, responding to "MOM, - where's XXXXX???" a hundred times
a day, working with her publicist on her next tour and working on her
next book. Quite different from being able to focus eight or more
hours a day on nothing but the room.

fiberlicious spun a FINE 'yarn':

May I butt in on the subject of the speed (or lack thereof) of the
Yarn Harlot's bedroom redo?

If you're being paid to do a job, it means that you're there for one
purpose: to work. She redid that room almost singlehandedly while
still running a household full of teenage girls - cooking, cleaning,
doing laundry, responding to "MOM, - where's XXXXX???" a hundred times
a day, working with her publicist on her next tour and working on her
next book. Quite different from being able to focus eight or more
hours a day on nothing but the room.


and may I offer a rebuttal to that?
When DH and I built our home, I was working full-time, actually 6 days
a week, 52 hours a week (9 mon-fri, 8 on sat's) and HE was working on
other jobs 4 days a week and we built said home in 1 month, footings to
finish. We were also raising a family in between.
Noreen




--
http://www.lulu.com/yarnwright
http://yarnwright.etsy.com
http://yarnwright.com
http://noreensknitche.com
http://noreensknitche.weblogs.us
http://optional-knitting.com
http://yarnscapes.com
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