Bond Sweater Machine HELP

Hi,

I am new to this group and new to knitting. Well, I have knitted in
the past, but nothing substantial. For years I have wanted to get a
knitting machine and finally I bought the Ultimate Sweater Machine. I
thought it would be good to learn on. I am having fits with it and was
hoping someone could help me. I do everything it says and it a) either
jams, or b) completely skips stitches, or c) drops stitches at the end
of the row. I have been fighting this flipping thing for probably six
hours total now. I should have been able to do something. I have
restarted my project probably 40 times already.

Please if anyone can help or give some advice, I would appreciate it.
I tired switching templates and am now using the #4 template. I am
just using the plain old polyester yarn you get at Walmart -- nothing
fancy.

The last time I tried, I ended up with needles flying everywhere. I
got the machine put back together, but I am so frustrated.

Julie

JulieInTexas wrote:
Hi,

I am new to this group and new to knitting. Well, I have knitted in
the past, but nothing substantial. For years I have wanted to get a
knitting machine and finally I bought the Ultimate Sweater Machine. I
thought it would be good to learn on. I am having fits with it and was
hoping someone could help me. I do everything it says and it a) either
jams, or b) completely skips stitches, or c) drops stitches at the end
of the row. I have been fighting this flipping thing for probably six
hours total now. I should have been able to do something. I have
restarted my project probably 40 times already.

Please if anyone can help or give some advice, I would appreciate it.
I tired switching templates and am now using the #4 template. I am
just using the plain old polyester yarn you get at Walmart -- nothing
fancy.

The last time I tried, I ended up with needles flying everywhere. I
got the machine put back together, but I am so frustrated.

Julie

Hi,
I will try to help, I'm better at showing someone how it works, then
telling but I will try, it needs to be waxed alot, the board, the
carriage just not the needles,you need to go past the last needle on
each end, draw up the yarn ,pull it a little tight behind the carriage
then push across the next row, do not put too much or too little
pressure on the carriage. Have you yarn loose before you do each row, if
it has to pull out of the skien on its own it will be too tight to knit
and jam up. Put weights on each end of both few rows, clothespins, S
hooks ,anything with some weight to it.Make sure it is on a level
surface, and clamped down tight.
check out woolworks.com for Bond Machine Knitting, or any search for
Bond Knitting. Did it come with a tape to watch? I have a Bond, it takes
a lot of practice and patients, but it is worth the time, I just got
mine reset up in the living room after the Holidays. and use it alot.
**wax it alot**, an old candle will do for waxing***
Hope some of this will help, let me know.
Jenny

Hi, Julie,

Have you joined the knitting group at www.knittingtoday.com ? Lea-Ann
McGregor, who owns Knitting Today and sponsors the NG forums, sells the USM.
There are many people in the knitting group who are helpful and
knowledgeable there.

First things first: Is your machine properly attached to the table you are
using, and level all the way across the bed? Are all the little green
plastic needle retainer pieces level and not sticking up and hitting the
carriage on its way by? (Double-check this if they went flying off. You
don't want to put a lot of weight onto the carriage, of pull it forward. It
really should move sideways very easily when there is no yarn being used,
and should just need a slightly firmer push with yarn.)

Second: Is your keyplate staying in the carriage properly? I remember
there was talk that some keyplates did not fit the carriages correctly.
Some people called and got replacements; others modified them. (The
keyplates can occasionally be tempermental if the knitting motion isn't
smooth.) Also, have you waxed the keyplates where the needlebutts ride on
them with the ring of wax?

Third: Is your yarn flowing freely to the carriage? Not snagging on the
table or tools behind the machine, etc.? The Bond machines are made to work
with no tension on the yarn, and if you don't have enough pulled out of the
skein to complete a row, you will also notice different stitch sizes in that
row.

Fourth: Dropping stitches at the end of the row may be due to the fact that
when you complete the row, you take the carriage a bit of a distance past
the last stitch, but forget to "snug up" the yarn when you start back in the
opposite direction. When moving back towards the knitting to start a new
row, pause very close to the knitting, pull upwards on the yarn gently as
you move the carriage towards the knitting. When you hear the end needle
starting to move it's time to stop pulling up on the yarn. (This sounds
harder than it is: it just takes practice to become second nature.)

Fifth: Go join the Bond list at Knitting Today, too. The Bonds are great
machines, but as with everything, there is a learning curve. I'm sure there
may be others here who have an ISM, a USM or a Bond Classic or Elite that
might help you, but the Knitting Today forums are geared towards the Bonds
(and the Silver Reed LK150), both of which can knit the WalMart/Red Heart
weight yarns quite well, as well as the finer baby weight hand knitting
yarns.

I started with a Bond ISM, then got a USM; that led to a Brother KH970 as
well as a KnitKing 120. Careful: once you get the hang of it, they're
addictive.

HTH,
Carey in MA


"JulieInTexas" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am new to this group and new to knitting. Well, I have knitted in
the past, but nothing substantial. For years I have wanted to get a
knitting machine and finally I bought the Ultimate Sweater Machine. I
thought it would be good to learn on. I am having fits with it and was
hoping someone could help me. I do everything it says and it a) either
jams, or b) completely skips stitches, or c) drops stitches at the end
of the row. I have been fighting this flipping thing for probably six
hours total now. I should have been able to do something. I have
restarted my project probably 40 times already.

Please if anyone can help or give some advice, I would appreciate it.
I tired switching templates and am now using the #4 template. I am
just using the plain old polyester yarn you get at Walmart -- nothing
fancy.

The last time I tried, I ended up with needles flying everywhere. I
got the machine put back together, but I am so frustrated.

Julie

Thanks so much for all the suggestions. I am going to try waxing the
machine really well first. I think that may be part of the problem and
then watch the video again. I do allow the thread to flow through
easily and always pull enough out, and I have been making sure the
thread is snug.

Another problem I am having is that the yarn is getting caught and
attempts to knit on needles outside of the ones I need.

Oh well. I will conquer this thing. I figure I can do bead weaving --
I should be able to do this.

Julie,
It sounds like your machine is tilting forward in the front, allowing the
out-of-work needles to slide forward from the vibration of the knitting
carriage. You might want to check the level of the table, and either put
something under the table legs, or put something under the front edge of the
Bond itself to make sure it isn't tilting forward.
Just a thought.
--
Carey in MA


"JulieInTexas" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks so much for all the suggestions. I am going to try waxing the
machine really well first. I think that may be part of the problem and
then watch the video again. I do allow the thread to flow through
easily and always pull enough out, and I have been making sure the
thread is snug.

Another problem I am having is that the yarn is getting caught and
attempts to knit on needles outside of the ones I need.

Oh well. I will conquer this thing. I figure I can do bead weaving --
I should be able to do this.

In article .com,
"JulieInTexas" wrote:

Thanks so much for all the suggestions. I am going to try waxing the
machine really well first. I think that may be part of the problem and
then watch the video again. I do allow the thread to flow through
easily and always pull enough out, and I have been making sure the
thread is snug.

Another problem I am having is that the yarn is getting caught and
attempts to knit on needles outside of the ones I need.

Oh well. I will conquer this thing. I figure I can do bead weaving --
I should be able to do this.

Your problems sound just like the ones I had when I started machine
knitting The problems partly being, that it goes so fast and the moves go
quickly as well. So I find that when I slow down, and look at the list of
things I need to remember to do, like moving needles out and in of working
position, hanging and changing weights, starting new yarns, etc. I do not
run in to many problems. The other think with machine knitting I find
intervering is phone calls and family members wanting things. I do it
when no one is around and I can concentrate on what I am doing. So, go
slowly and do it step by step, checking your instructions carefully, so
you get to know your machine, and what it can and cannot do

Happy machine knitting,

Els

sounds to me, like the ''butts'' of the needles aren't right back, and
therefore the needles which are meant to be out of use, are being vibrated
forward...check this by pushing them right back before putting the carriage
across this could be caused by the mach bed not sitting square and straight
on a flat surface...

cheers......Cher
"Carey N." wrote in message
news:EPnHf.1860$lG.543@trndny01...
Julie,
It sounds like your machine is tilting forward in the front, allowing the
out-of-work needles to slide forward from the vibration of the knitting
carriage. You might want to check the level of the table, and either put
something under the table legs, or put something under the front edge of
the
Bond itself to make sure it isn't tilting forward.
Just a thought.
--
Carey in MA


"JulieInTexas" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks so much for all the suggestions. I am going to try waxing the
machine really well first. I think that may be part of the problem and
then watch the video again. I do allow the thread to flow through
easily and always pull enough out, and I have been making sure the
thread is snug.

Another problem I am having is that the yarn is getting caught and
attempts to knit on needles outside of the ones I need.

Oh well. I will conquer this thing. I figure I can do bead weaving --
I should be able to do this.

Leah wrote:
On 10 Feb 2006 17:42:15 -0800, "JulieInTexas"
wrote:

Hi Julie,

I went through all these problems myself while learning how to use my
beast, so please bear with it, once you know it's quirks, you should
get many years of enjoyable knitting out of it!


LOL I read Leah's post as "learning to use my BREAST"!!!!!

Higs,
Katherine

On 10 Feb 2006 17:42:15 -0800, "JulieInTexas"
wrote:

Hi Julie,

I went through all these problems myself while learning how to use my
beast, so please bear with it, once you know it's quirks, you should
get many years of enjoyable knitting out of it!

a) either
jams,

Beginners with the ISM/USM often make the mistake of trying to knit
across the row too fast. This causes your pressure on the carriage to
vary, which can cause it to lift up from the speed, and then the
needles or KP get out of alignment and the whole thing can jam up.

Your machine will be stiff the first couple of times you use it. Bond
says it doesn't need wax, but I disagree. Others have suggested an
old candle, a couple of things about that. Make sure it's 100%
paraffin (wax), and use a white one that's unscented. A scented
candle has oils that can stain your yarn. Same with the colored
candles, they can stain your yarn. Where to wax: The bottom of the
keyplate where it runs across the needles. On top of the retainer
bars on the front of the machine, especially the joints where they fit
together. On the back of the bed where the joints are. On the bottom
edge of the back of the bed where the carriage runs across the same
joints can also jam your carriage. You can also at first run the wax
a couple of times across the carriage body where it meets the bed if
you can't get to all the areas on the bed itself. A light coat is all
that's needed. While knitting, if you do a lot of smaller projects
(socks, scarves) you notice things are starting to feel stiff again,
repeat the waxing. I will wax where I said at the beginning of any
big project; do a sweater, and the next time I do a sweater, I'll wax
it again. If you don't use it that often and store it for a while
between projects, wax it before using it again.

If you didn't pull the yarn up at the beginning of the row, it can
cause your carriage to jam. If you pull it too tight, the carriage
can jam.

After knitting the first row, trying pulling down gently on the
weighted hem to make sure it's knitted off and hanging freely and not
pushing your needles up, which can cause it to jam up if it's not
hanging down properly.

If it jams on the first row, you could be catching on the hem itself.
I usually do a closed edge cast on and then when knitting the first
row will hold back the hem with one hand while running the carriage
slowly across to make sure it doesn't jam up.

You should also check your yarn and make sure it's running freely.
Some people either don't pull enough yarn out of the skein or pull too
much, piling it on top of the free end, which can weigh the free end
down so it makes tight rows, and then you start getting jams.

If you're using a novelty yarn, i.e. eyelash, metallic wrapped, or
something lumpy like Lionbrand Homespun, that can cause your carriage
to jam.

If you have a row counter, check to see that the yarn isn't getting
stuck in it. I make sure the yarn runs behind the row counter at all
times.

b) completely skips stitches,

If you are skipping stitches, it's more than likely because you are
trying to run the carriage across the bed too fast. The machines used
in the video are well lubricated and broken in, so go a little slower
at first. If you're done with the first row, and it's skipping
stitches on the next few, the hem could have not knitted completely
off, causing stitches to stick up and therefore not get knitted
properly on following rows. Also, check your hem to see that the rods
are evenly distributed, as they can slide while putting the hem on the
bed, putting uneven weight on the bed, which can cause skips or jams.

On the first row, it's important to make sure after pushing the
needles back with the yellow card to double check that all latches are
open for that first row. I found that doing a closed edge cast on
that some of them will close when the needles get pushed back, not
every time, just occasionally, so I run my fingers lightly across the
tips of the needles to make sure all are open before doing that first
row.

c) drops stitches at the end
of the row. I have been fighting this flipping thing for probably six
hours total now. I should have been able to do something. I have
restarted my project probably 40 times already.

Claw weights will help with those edge stitches. When starting a new
piece, I will check the sides after the first and then every 3-4 rows
to make sure they are knitting properly. When I have enough room
(about 10 rows), I add claw weights to the sides. I move my claw
weights up every 6-8 rows.

If you aren't pulling your yarn up enough at the beginning of the row,
these stitches will drop. HOWEVER, if you are pulling it up too
tight, it will also drop the side stitches.

Also, if you are already trying to change colors, you'll have trouble
with the 2nd or 3rd rows after changing, because the loose ends will
create loose stitches and then the stitches can start dropping. Put a
clip on the yarn ends to help with that and then check edge stitches
the 2nd and 3rd rows after a color change anyway, and when there's
enough room, move claw weights up onto the new color.

If none of that works, check for an old ISM carriage (sometimes found
on Ebay for $15-20), and if you find it, I'd recommend you buy it. I
have 2 ISM carriages (for doing quick stripes and fair isle), and
tried the new USM carriage and didn't like it as much as the ISM. I
do like the new KP with the in between sizes. The USM KP will fit the
ISM carriage, but the ISM KP will NOT fit the USM, so if you find an
ISM carriage and the old style KP, those won't fit in your USM and
will also give you a slightly different gauge than the USM KP, so if
you have one of each and want to do quick stripes and fair isle, I
recommend getting a second set of USM KP for your ISM carriage to
match gauge. I've found the fabric retainer bar is the major diff
between these carriages, and I prefer the ISM's fabric retainer bar,
because it makes sure the fabric is back against the bed, which means
the needles are properly aligned to knit the next row.

d) needles out of work catch yarn and try to knit.

You could be moving the carriage too fast, causing those out of work
needles to jump forward from the pressure on the bed. They could also
be jumping forward because the machine is still new and stiff
vibrating them forward.

OR your table is uneven, causing those needles to slide forward enough
after a couple rows with proper motion on the carriage. Put something
under the front legs to raise it up if needed.

OR check your clamps. Make sure your machine doesn't move around
which could vibrate those needles into working position, but also make
sure it isn't clamped too tight so that it bends down on the ends,
which can cause jams.

If you are trying a really big project, try doing the smaller swatch
first. My video is an ISM video, and it recommends doing a 50 stitch
by I forget how many rows swatch with the included yarn. I learned a
lot while doing that swatch, and it loosened up the machine for me.

Oh, one last tip, I put the latchet tool back into the box, as it's
awkward to hold and catches on and splits the yarn. It won't open
when I want it, or close when I need it to. I found it took as long
to do up ribbing with that than it did to knit an entire sweater front
with shaping. Someone suggested using a crochet hook to do up the
ribbing, a stroke of genius that's cut my ribbing time on a sweater to
way down. For worsted weight, I use a size G (4 mm) hook. For
DK/sport, I use an E (3.5 mm). I have yet to do ribbing in chunky,
but I'd probably use an I or J (5.5 or 6 mm). The ribbing looks
uneven at first using those size hooks, but the work goes fast, and
after washing, the ribbing evens out. If you don't crochet, watch the
video and use the hook like the latchet, putting the hook through the
loop, then catching the yarn in the hook and twisting the hook
slightly to pull the strand through the loop on the hook. It's called
chain stitch and once you get the hang of it, I found it goes pretty
fast.

HTH

Leah

OMG giggle, trust you Katherine, rofl...omg that is so funny..

thnx for the giggle...

cheers...cher

"Katherine" wrote in message
...
Leah wrote:
On 10 Feb 2006 17:42:15 -0800, "JulieInTexas"
wrote:

Hi Julie,

I went through all these problems myself while learning how to use my
beast, so please bear with it, once you know it's quirks, you should
get many years of enjoyable knitting out of it!


LOL I read Leah's post as "learning to use my BREAST"!!!!!

Higs,
Katherine