Cross Grain

I thought I understood what "crossgrain" meant until I saw cutting
instructions in a tayloring book; "Classic Tailoring Techniques", for
the record.

They show a long vertical piece like a coat front with the straight
grain running up and down. Next to this is a long skinny belt sort of
thing, oriented exactly the same and with the straight running up and down.

They claim that because the belt thing is used horizontally, it is
called cross grain. Nevermind that it is cut along the warp just like
the other piece.

I was under the impression that cross grain meant it was cut on the weft
as opposed to the warp and has nothing to do with the way the piece is used.

Thoughts?

js

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Jack Schmidling wrote:

I thought I understood what "crossgrain" meant until I saw cutting
instructions in a tayloring book; "Classic Tailoring Techniques", for
the record.

They show a long vertical piece like a coat front with the straight
grain running up and down. Next to this is a long skinny belt sort of
thing, oriented exactly the same and with the straight running up and down.

They claim that because the belt thing is used horizontally, it is
called cross grain. Nevermind that it is cut along the warp just like
the other piece.

I was under the impression that cross grain meant it was cut on the weft
as opposed to the warp and has nothing to do with the way the piece is
used.

Thoughts?

js


I have always understood the same as you. It has it that way in my books.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Dear Friends,

"Cross grain" in ancient books (nineteenth century and before) meant
cut on the bias. Your tailoring book isn't that old; it's just
incorrect.

Teri

I probably should add to my previous post. The expression was always
written, "on the cross."

Teri

wrote:

I probably should add to my previous post. The expression was always
written, "on the cross."

Teri

I have always understood from my reading that 'cut on the cross' was
bias, and 'cross grain' was short for 'across the grain', and the two
were different.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Dear Kate,

You're probably right. I had to learn some of the old terms to be able
to replicate the techniques. "On the cross" was one of those terms.
Another was measurements in "nails." And gathering could be
"plaiting." I don't often read modern sewing instructions, as I was
taught different (and better) techniques than are available in
instruction sheets. For example, many patterns call for collars to be
cut on the fold, which would throw the width of the collar on the cross
grain. This builds in trouble. I always told my students to make a
full copy of collars and stands, and cut them on the straight grain.
They are much more stable cut this way, and easier to sew without
stretching.

Teri

wrote:

Dear Kate,

You're probably right. I had to learn some of the old terms to be able
to replicate the techniques. "On the cross" was one of those terms.
Another was measurements in "nails." And gathering could be
"plaiting." I don't often read modern sewing instructions, as I was
taught different (and better) techniques than are available in
instruction sheets. For example, many patterns call for collars to be
cut on the fold, which would throw the width of the collar on the cross
grain. This builds in trouble. I always told my students to make a
full copy of collars and stands, and cut them on the straight grain.
They are much more stable cut this way, and easier to sew without
stretching.

Teri

I tend to do that too, having picked up a number of my techniques from
1930's sewing manuals!

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

wrote:
Dear Kate,

You're probably right. I had to learn some of the old terms to be able
to replicate the techniques. "On the cross" was one of those terms.
Another was measurements in "nails." And gathering could be
"plaiting." I don't often read modern sewing instructions, as I was
taught different (and better) techniques than are available in
instruction sheets. For example, many patterns call for collars to be
cut on the fold, which would throw the width of the collar on the cross
grain. This builds in trouble. I always told my students to make a
full copy of collars and stands, and cut them on the straight grain.
They are much more stable cut this way, and easier to sew without
stretching.

Teri


Collars cut on the straight grain also are much easier to iron without
getting little wrinkles at the seams and/or topstitching. With collars
cut cross grain, dampness and pressure often push that little bit of
stretchiness ahead of the iron; then when you get to the other side of
the collar you have to somehow push it back!

Doreen in Alabama