Embroidery Periods - English

This is the little ready reference I provide to students when discussing
English samplers. Not complete but covering the major years of sampler
embroidery.

Linn Skinner
Skinner Sisters
www.skinnersisters.com

KINGS AND QUEENS OF ENGLAND

TUDOR

Elizabeth I 1558-1603


STUART

James I (VI of Scotland) 1603 - 1625
Charles I 1625-1649


COMMONWEALTH/INTERREGNUM

Oliver Cromwell 1653-1658
Richard Cromwell 1658-1660


STUART/RESTORATION

Charles II 1660-1685
James II (VII of Scotland) 1685-1689


STUART/ORANGE

William II 1689-1702
Mary II 1689-1694
Anne 1702-1714


HANOVER

George I (Hanover) 1714-1727
George II (Hanover) 1727-1760
George III (Hanover) 1760-1820
George IV (Hanover) 1820-1830
William IV (Hanover) 1830-1837
Victoria 1837-1901

No WONDER nobody knows what to call things! grin
I saved your post. And left it intact below for those that missed it.

I'm beginning to think mid-17th century is a safer bet. But it
certainly doesn't have that same flair as using the word "Elizabeth". g
Dianne

Linn Skinner wrote:
This is the little ready reference I provide to students when discussing
English samplers. Not complete but covering the major years of sampler
embroidery.

Linn Skinner
Skinner Sisters
www.skinnersisters.com

KINGS AND QUEENS OF ENGLAND

TUDOR

Elizabeth I 1558-1603


STUART

James I (VI of Scotland) 1603 - 1625
Charles I 1625-1649


COMMONWEALTH/INTERREGNUM

Oliver Cromwell 1653-1658
Richard Cromwell 1658-1660


STUART/RESTORATION

Charles II 1660-1685
James II (VII of Scotland) 1685-1689


STUART/ORANGE

William II 1689-1702
Mary II 1689-1694
Anne 1702-1714


HANOVER

George I (Hanover) 1714-1727
George II (Hanover) 1727-1760
George III (Hanover) 1760-1820
George IV (Hanover) 1820-1830
William IV (Hanover) 1830-1837
Victoria 1837-1901

Dianne Lewandowski wrote:

I'm beginning to think mid-17th century is a safer bet. But it
certainly doesn't have that same flair as using the word "Elizabeth". g

Of course not! *preen*

Elizabeth
--
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~living well is the best revenge~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
The most important thing one woman can do for another is to illuminate
and expand her sense of actual possibilities. --Adrienne Rich
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ *~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

Mid 17th wouldn't be Elizabethian though.... that would have been mid
to late 16th..

(still grumbling that it's so darn *hard* to find anything about English
embroidery and embroiderers during Henry VIII's time....)

-Liz


Dr. Brat wrote:
Dianne Lewandowski wrote:

I'm beginning to think mid-17th century is a safer bet. But it
certainly doesn't have that same flair as using the word "Elizabeth". g


Of course not! *preen*

Elizabeth

Cozit/Liz wrote:
Mid 17th wouldn't be Elizabethian though.... that would have been mid
to late 16th..

(still grumbling that it's so darn *hard* to find anything about English
embroidery and embroiderers during Henry VIII's time....)

-Liz

Liz,

What sort of info are you after?

Cheers,
Laren

Laren wrote:

Cozit/Liz wrote:

Mid 17th wouldn't be Elizabethian though.... that would have been mid
to late 16th..

(still grumbling that it's so darn *hard* to find anything about
English embroidery and embroiderers during Henry VIII's time....)

-Liz


Liz,

What sort of info are you after?

Cheers,
Laren


What exactly was being made, besides court clothing... and even that was
relatively simple (compared to Elizabethan) when it comes to embroidery.
What type of ecclesiastical trappings (for building or person) were
being made. Who was making what (Noblewomen, professional embroiderers,
embroidery workshops, other amateurs). And what towns had any
Broiderers Guilds of any sort... and what form they might have
taken/rules they had, etc. Generic rates of pay for embroiderers of
various levels, apprenticeship conditions (both in contract and in
living conditions)...

Um... pretty much anything in other words. Most of what I've got at
this point is either my theory or someone else's I know, based on what
we've been able to come across about medieval broiderers, a bit that
I've found here and there (mostly in that one medieval craftsmen book on
embroiderers) about the mid to late 1400s, and what happens in
Elizabeth's time. There's rather a large gap between those times... and
enough population changes as well as the social changes that it makes
most things rather purely guesswork.

Honestly? I'd be happy to find sources that I can go after. Gostelow's
had some for earlier and later in a couple of her books. There's that
Medieval Craftsmen book. And I've been catching *little* bits here and
there in other books along the way that aren't directly embroidery
related. (and darn it, that reminds me that I forgot to note the place
I came across an alternative spelling for the Mabel I named my faire
character after in part... she was an embroideress for a medieval
English king... and she even came from the right part of the country..
for the *real* location of the property (as opposed to convienent for
faire location) our group claims to re-enact.


-Liz

Cozit/Liz wrote:


Laren wrote:

Cozit/Liz wrote:

Mid 17th wouldn't be Elizabethian though.... that would have been
mid to late 16th..

(still grumbling that it's so darn *hard* to find anything about
English embroidery and embroiderers during Henry VIII's time....)

-Liz



Liz,

What sort of info are you after?

Cheers,
Laren


What exactly was being made, besides court clothing... and even that was
relatively simple (compared to Elizabethan) when it comes to embroidery.
What type of ecclesiastical trappings (for building or person) were
being made. Who was making what (Noblewomen, professional embroiderers,
embroidery workshops, other amateurs). And what towns had any
Broiderers Guilds of any sort... and what form they might have
taken/rules they had, etc. Generic rates of pay for embroiderers of
various levels, apprenticeship conditions (both in contract and in
living conditions)...

Well, firstly, when talking about embroidery in this period anywhere in
Europe, the church was one of the biggest customers (either directly or
indirectly via donations). As a result, when the middle and later half
of Henry's reign, you have the disolutions of the monestaries and other
church groups, alot of stuff was lost.

Then when you get into Edward and Elizabeth you have a real
"purification" of "Papist" influence in the new C of E which meant that
where once churches were covered in embroidered goods, they were now
stripped bare, litterally.

Also, in mid-Tudor, most clothing was pretty plain except for court garb.

As far as the guilds go, most records for the London Guilds, which were
the most highly regarded and well know, were lost in the Great Fire of
1666.

Also the period leading into Tudor times was pretty much a low point of
English embroidery, what was taking place wasn't that great.

Again, there are guild rules etc in exhistance but mostly from earlier
periods.


Um... pretty much anything in other words. Most of what I've got at
this point is either my theory or someone else's I know, based on what
we've been able to come across about medieval broiderers, a bit that
I've found here and there (mostly in that one medieval craftsmen book on
embroiderers) about the mid to late 1400s, and what happens in
Elizabeth's time. There's rather a large gap between those times... and
enough population changes as well as the social changes that it makes
most things rather purely guesswork.

Honestly? I'd be happy to find sources that I can go after. Gostelow's
had some for earlier and later in a couple of her books. There's that
Medieval Craftsmen book. And I've been catching *little* bits here and
there in other books along the way that aren't directly embroidery
related. (and darn it, that reminds me that I forgot to note the place
I came across an alternative spelling for the Mabel I named my faire
character after in part... she was an embroideress for a medieval
English king... and she even came from the right part of the country..
for the *real* location of the property (as opposed to convienent for
faire location) our group claims to re-enact.


-Liz

While Gostelow is good, I think for the sort of information you are
looking for, you are going to have to hit more hard course sources, like
academic journals etc.

I will see what other references I can find.

Cheers,
Laren

A site worth looking at is http://www.ngfl.ac.uk/tudorhistory/sew.html it
has several good links.
Jan
"Cozit/Liz" wrote in message
news


Laren wrote:

Cozit/Liz wrote:

Mid 17th wouldn't be Elizabethian though.... that would have been mid
to late 16th..

(still grumbling that it's so darn *hard* to find anything about
English embroidery and embroiderers during Henry VIII's time....)

-Liz


Liz,

What sort of info are you after?

Cheers,
Laren


What exactly was being made, besides court clothing... and even that was
relatively simple (compared to Elizabethan) when it comes to embroidery.
What type of ecclesiastical trappings (for building or person) were
being made. Who was making what (Noblewomen, professional embroiderers,
embroidery workshops, other amateurs). And what towns had any
Broiderers Guilds of any sort... and what form they might have
taken/rules they had, etc. Generic rates of pay for embroiderers of
various levels, apprenticeship conditions (both in contract and in
living conditions)...

Um... pretty much anything in other words. Most of what I've got at
this point is either my theory or someone else's I know, based on what
we've been able to come across about medieval broiderers, a bit that
I've found here and there (mostly in that one medieval craftsmen book on
embroiderers) about the mid to late 1400s, and what happens in
Elizabeth's time. There's rather a large gap between those times... and
enough population changes as well as the social changes that it makes
most things rather purely guesswork.

Honestly? I'd be happy to find sources that I can go after. Gostelow's
had some for earlier and later in a couple of her books. There's that
Medieval Craftsmen book. And I've been catching *little* bits here and
there in other books along the way that aren't directly embroidery
related. (and darn it, that reminds me that I forgot to note the place
I came across an alternative spelling for the Mabel I named my faire
character after in part... she was an embroideress for a medieval
English king... and she even came from the right part of the country..
for the *real* location of the property (as opposed to convienent for
faire location) our group claims to re-enact.


-Liz

This is just a suggestion and I don't know how good it is, but here it is!

I read a mystery series by Kathy Lynn Emerson (www.kathylynnemerson.com)
which is set in the mid- to late-16th century. On her Web site if you click
on "historical mysteries" she has a link near the bottom of the page to see
bibliographies for all of her books. Bear in mind that her main character
is an herbalist, and I realize that this is before the time period you are
concentrating on, but there are SO many books listed in her bibiographies
that there might be something there useful to you. Also, you might send her
an email to see if she has run across anything in the time period and on the
topic you are seeking.

--
Bonnie

WIPs:
EGA's English Band Sampler ICC
Scarlet Letter's Luna
Stitch-n-Zip Patchwork Checkbook Cover
Knitted Cardigan
Knitted Amish Throw

"Cozit/Liz" wrote in message
news


Laren wrote:

Cozit/Liz wrote:

Mid 17th wouldn't be Elizabethian though.... that would have been mid
to late 16th..

(still grumbling that it's so darn *hard* to find anything about
English embroidery and embroiderers during Henry VIII's time....)

-Liz


Liz,

What sort of info are you after?

Cheers,
Laren


What exactly was being made, besides court clothing... and even that was
relatively simple (compared to Elizabethan) when it comes to embroidery.
What type of ecclesiastical trappings (for building or person) were
being made. Who was making what (Noblewomen, professional embroiderers,
embroidery workshops, other amateurs). And what towns had any
Broiderers Guilds of any sort... and what form they might have
taken/rules they had, etc. Generic rates of pay for embroiderers of
various levels, apprenticeship conditions (both in contract and in
living conditions)...

Um... pretty much anything in other words. Most of what I've got at
this point is either my theory or someone else's I know, based on what
we've been able to come across about medieval broiderers, a bit that
I've found here and there (mostly in that one medieval craftsmen book on
embroiderers) about the mid to late 1400s, and what happens in
Elizabeth's time. There's rather a large gap between those times... and
enough population changes as well as the social changes that it makes
most things rather purely guesswork.

Honestly? I'd be happy to find sources that I can go after. Gostelow's
had some for earlier and later in a couple of her books. There's that
Medieval Craftsmen book. And I've been catching *little* bits here and
there in other books along the way that aren't directly embroidery
related. (and darn it, that reminds me that I forgot to note the place
I came across an alternative spelling for the Mabel I named my faire
character after in part... she was an embroideress for a medieval
English king... and she even came from the right part of the country..
for the *real* location of the property (as opposed to convienent for
faire location) our group claims to re-enact.


-Liz

Laren wrote:

Well, firstly, when talking about embroidery in this period anywhere in
Europe, the church was one of the biggest customers (either directly or
indirectly via donations). As a result, when the middle and later half
of Henry's reign, you have the disolutions of the monestaries and other
church groups, alot of stuff was lost.

True. And our faire is just getting to that period, so I'm not planning
to start any altercloths or such, but I'm still interested to know
exactly what types of patterns/pictures/colors were used, and on what items.


As far as the guilds go, most records for the London Guilds, which were
the most highly regarded and well know, were lost in the Great Fire of
1666.

Another problem. There wasn't a royally sanctioned embroiderers guild
until Elizabeth's reign. That I've come across in several references.
Of course that doesn't mean that no guilds exist... just that the
current guild doesn't have any records going back that far that are
easily found and have been put into books that are available. Also
means that there aren't official documents out there that lay out
official rules of conduct, etc. for such groups, as there are for France
near that time.

Also the period leading into Tudor times was pretty much a low point of
English embroidery, what was taking place wasn't that great.

Again, there are guild rules etc in exhistance but mostly from earlier
periods.

Even that would help... as I've said, the only places I've been pointed
to to look in (and that includes looking up sources mentioned in other
books that I could obtain) have been pretty sparce even for that.


While Gostelow is good, I think for the sort of information you are
looking for, you are going to have to hit more hard course sources, like
academic journals etc.

While strictly speaking I have access to U. of MD library books (in
general at least), in reality it's kinda tough for me to find the
opportunity to even go there to seek out other stuff. Doesn't help that
it's something I've been trying to find out in my spare time on and off
through the last few years, rather than something I'm doing for a paper
or some such.

I will see what other references I can find.


I'd appreciate it!! (which reminds me that I owe H-costume a reference
list I made up, but haven't remembered to post yet...)


Thanks!
-Liz