irridizing or fuming glass

Seems "carnival" glass is generally "stannous" chloride
sprayed on the base glass...
but I found a reference to using "ferrous" chloride too.
Happen to have a bottle of that available to me...

If I were doing small pieces (i.e. beads) - what would be the procedure
to use such a chemical to get a carnival type finish?
I believe commercial companies (i.e. like Fenton) spray
the solution on the hot glass right before it goes into the
annealer. I was wondering if I could put some in a dish
with a sponge - and briefly "roll" the hot bead lightly
across the wet surface - as an alternative to spraying?
--
Read the MSDS -- stuff is a bit toxic (ha ha)
so I would assume I'd have to build a fume hood/box
over this little experiment (or wear a respirator - bleah)

Anybody ever use ferrous chloride?
Were the results decent?
Tips?
Comments? (be kind)
Cheryl
www.dragonbeads.com

Hi Cheryl,

DO not waste your time with trying to roll it. The metals are applied by
spraying. You have to heat the glass to the point that is glowing just
before it starts to move then spray it. Your best results will be on base
colors of blue or red glass. Also remember that most iridizing was done on
soft glass. Boro's high temps will burn out the color effects you desire.

Mix the chlorides down in distilled water. You can fashion a sprayer out of
glass tubing. My dad would use about 8 mm tubing. You draw down one end of
each to a point leaving an orifice of about 1 mm. weld the tubes together,
one point over the other, at a 90 degree angle using a piece of rod as a
brace. Have one point blowing over the top of the second point. The open end
of the second point is put in your solution. Use compressed air attached to
the open end of the top tube. This will create a ventury effect and draw the
solution up the tube and atomize it.

Definitely use some good ventilation! My father spent years in the garage
trying to re discover these lost techniques. Spraying is the only way to go.

My dad passed away last Oct. And my mom passed away last month. One of the
reasons I have been absent from this list. It is in their memory that I am
sharing this info that my father worked so hard to learn.

Please check out some of his and my uncles work.
http://www.ddoty.com/pagehansen.html


So in the famous words of our govenator....." I'll be bach! "

good luck,

Randy Hansen
SC Glass Tech
San Diego, CA





"Cheryl" wrote in message
ups.com...
Seems "carnival" glass is generally "stannous" chloride
sprayed on the base glass...
but I found a reference to using "ferrous" chloride too.
Happen to have a bottle of that available to me...

If I were doing small pieces (i.e. beads) - what would be the procedure
to use such a chemical to get a carnival type finish?
I believe commercial companies (i.e. like Fenton) spray
the solution on the hot glass right before it goes into the
annealer. I was wondering if I could put some in a dish
with a sponge - and briefly "roll" the hot bead lightly
across the wet surface - as an alternative to spraying?
--
Read the MSDS -- stuff is a bit toxic (ha ha)
so I would assume I'd have to build a fume hood/box
over this little experiment (or wear a respirator - bleah)

Anybody ever use ferrous chloride?
Were the results decent?
Tips?
Comments? (be kind)
Cheryl
www.dragonbeads.com

In addition to other comments, note that this is a surface effect and that
you have to apply a reducing flame to get the effect. In other words, you
are spraying on a thin, thin coat of metal oxide or chlorides to the hot
glass and and then using a gassy flame to pull the oxide or chloride off the
metal compound, leaving a thin coating of metal that varies in thickness and
thus gives varying color effects. Since it is an area effect, it may not
be as effective on beads as dichroic.

--
Mike Firth
Furnace Glassblowing Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/
"Cheryl" wrote in message
ups.com...
Seems "carnival" glass is generally "stannous" chloride
sprayed on the base glass...
but I found a reference to using "ferrous" chloride too.
Happen to have a bottle of that available to me...

If I were doing small pieces (i.e. beads) - what would be the procedure
to use such a chemical to get a carnival type finish?
I believe commercial companies (i.e. like Fenton) spray
the solution on the hot glass right before it goes into the
annealer. I was wondering if I could put some in a dish
with a sponge - and briefly "roll" the hot bead lightly
across the wet surface - as an alternative to spraying?
--
Read the MSDS -- stuff is a bit toxic (ha ha)
so I would assume I'd have to build a fume hood/box
over this little experiment (or wear a respirator - bleah)

Anybody ever use ferrous chloride?
Were the results decent?
Tips?
Comments? (be kind)
Cheryl
www.dragonbeads.com

Randy H. wrote in message
news:lDNLg.18811$RD.14871@fed1read08...
Hi Cheryl,

DO not waste your time with trying to roll it. The metals are
applied by
spraying. You have to heat the glass to the point that is
glowing just
before it starts to move then spray it. Your best results will
be on base
colors of blue or red glass. Also remember that most iridizing
was done on
soft glass. Boro's high temps will burn out the color effects
you desire.

Mix the chlorides down in distilled water. You can fashion a
sprayer out of
glass tubing. My dad would use about 8 mm tubing. You draw
down one end of
each to a point leaving an orifice of about 1 mm. weld the
tubes together,
one point over the other, at a 90 degree angle using a piece of
rod as a
brace. Have one point blowing over the top of the second point.
The open end
of the second point is put in your solution. Use compressed air
attached to
the open end of the top tube. This will create a ventury effect
and draw the
solution up the tube and atomize it.

Definitely use some good ventilation! My father spent years in
the garage
trying to re discover these lost techniques. Spraying is the
only way to go.

My dad passed away last Oct. And my mom passed away last month.
One of the
reasons I have been absent from this list. It is in their
memory that I am
sharing this info that my father worked so hard to learn.

Please check out some of his and my uncles work.
http://www.ddoty.com/pagehansen.html


So in the famous words of our govenator....." I'll be bach! "

R.H.:

Please have my sympathies. Good to see a friendly voice back.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Randy - thanks for the comments!
I plan to use on SOFT glass - not boro -
so should not have the burn-out problem.

I will probably just use a small pump
type sprayer.
I don't really want a "perfect" coating
effect (Or a dichro effect) - I'm looking
for a splatter effect - so a small
used hairspray bottle ought to do the
job for me fine....
I bought this stuff as a solution ...


So sorry on loss of your parents...
I still have mine and feel
extremely grateful that I have them still.

Thanks again for the advice!
Cheryl

Randy H. wrote:
Hi Cheryl,

DO not waste your time with trying to roll it. The metals are applied by
spraying. You have to heat the glass to the point that is glowing just
before it starts to move then spray it. Your best results will be on base
colors of blue or red glass. Also remember that most iridizing was done on
soft glass. Boro's high temps will burn out the color effects you desire.

PS ----

"Please check out some of his and my uncles work.
http://www.ddoty.com/pagehansen.html "


DANG! COOL
I am familiar with the majority of those pieces --
(i.e the original manufacturers) --
did they bring them back up in a kiln
and then spray them????
That must have been tricky!
That Fenton Santa Fairy Light is a popular piece
as are many of the others...

Cheryl

Thanks Mike
I'm not looking for a dichro effect -
or even the traditional even coating of
"carnival glass " -
I'm looking to do something that is a little
bit funky -- like splashed on/spattered
carnival. I saw this technique on a piece of
blown glass once and thought it would be cool
on some beads. Thanks for the tip on the reduction
I would have just assumed - "spray hot and pop
in the annealer... " wouldn't have gotten much
that way -would I???
LOL
I have been in process of moving from my
residence of 18 years to a home I purchased -
not getting much bench time (since it is still
at the old house - and my new studio space
is not even started at the new house yet!)
When I get around to trying this - I'll post
some pics of the results.
Cheryl

Mike Firth wrote:
In addition to other comments, note that this is a surface effect and that
you have to apply a reducing flame to get the effect. In other words, you
are spraying on a thin, thin coat of metal oxide or chlorides to the hot
glass and and then using a gassy flame to pull the oxide or chloride off the
metal compound, leaving a thin coating of metal that varies in thickness and
thus gives varying color effects. Since it is an area effect, it may not
be as effective on beads as dichroic.

--