reclaiming clay

I've got lots of used clay mounting up from earlier work and want to reuse
it. Heard differing ideas about reclaiming it -- some of course say not to
try it at all. Another that feldspar is lost in the initial throwing and
working, but all else would be ok. However, since I'm very new at ceramics
and need to gain experience without empting my bank, it seems a shame to
throw away all this wonderful stuff. So, here are some of my questions:
1. Is it really very unwise to re-use the clay again? If so why?
2. If there is a loss of feldspar how do I know how much to add when
pouring the mixed and watery mud into the settling pan?

If there are other problems I'd like to know, also. Have looked through
some books but haven't found such info, where should I look to find data, if
its out there in print?

Thanks for helping.
Kathy

"Kathryn & Stuart Fields" wrote in message
...
I've got lots of used clay mounting up from earlier work and want to reuse
it. Heard differing ideas about reclaiming it -- some of course say not
to
try it at all. Another that feldspar is lost in the initial throwing and
working, but all else would be ok.

[I've never heard that before. Even if your clay contained feldspar (not all
of it does) I don't see how it would be lost preferentially. Most potters
reclaim their scraps; reclaimed clay works just fine.]

However, since I'm very new at ceramics
and need to gain experience without empting my bank, it seems a shame to
throw away all this wonderful stuff. So, here are some of my questions:
1. Is it really very unwise to re-use the clay again? If so why?

[It's wise, unless you're making rocket parts or something equally critical.
Just don't get any foreign material mixed up in it, keep different kinds of
clay separate, and wedge well to eliminate air bubbles and inconsistency.]

2. If there is a loss of feldspar how do I know how much to add when
pouring the mixed and watery mud into the settling pan?

[This sounds like a potter's legend to me - I never add anything and haven't
noticed a difference...]

If there are other problems I'd like to know, also. Have looked through
some books but haven't found such info, where should I look to find data,
if
its out there in print?

Thanks for helping.
Kathy

[Throw all your scaps in a plastic barrel, let them dry thoroughly (for some
reason, clay accepts water when dry better than when semidry) and then fill
with water until the scraps are covered. After a few days, work the soggy
mass with your hands until it's more or less uniform in texture (don't worry
about lumps, just get it all moving together). At that point I turn it out
onto a plaster slab and wedge it the next day (or whenever it's ready). Some
people don't like plaster - if you're one of them, you can sew up the ends
of an old pair of jeans and fill them with clay (or make a special canvas
clay bag). Hang that in a dry place and turn it out onto your canvas-covered
wedging board when it gets to the right consistency. Of course, if you're
working on a large scale, you'd use a pug mill, but this works for smaller
batches.]

Good luck-

Andrew Werby
www.unitedartworks.com

Good answers all around from Andrew. You can also reclaim the sloppy clay just
by setting it on a piece of board or plywood--it avoids the potential lime
popouts of plaster bits, and is easier than old pants to get the clay onto it.
I always wait until it's dried enough (sitting by the kiln) to put on the boards
without slopping off the sides.
Brad Sondahl
--
For original art, music, pottery, and literature, visit my homepage
http://sondahl.com

To reply to me directly, don't forget to take out the "garbage" from my address.

Thanks to both of you.
I'm making up a canvas/cotton liner for a plastic utility pan (Aice Hardware
special). This is my all around UTILITY pan for everything, so the liner is
best. Currently there are several plastic buckets containing different
types of liquid clay becoming very smelly and waiting to come back together
again.

When you say separate the different kinds of clay, how critical is this?
All my clay is cone ten and most of it is separated by red or white
stoneware at least-- there's no porcelain -- but there is some mixing
amongst small scraps of differing either white or red (sounds like wines).
If its not critical good. If so,...


Kathy
"Brad Sondahl" wrote in message
...
Good answers all around from Andrew. You can also reclaim the sloppy clay
just
by setting it on a piece of board or plywood--it avoids the potential lime
popouts of plaster bits, and is easier than old pants to get the clay onto
it.
I always wait until it's dried enough (sitting by the kiln) to put on the
boards
without slopping off the sides.
Brad Sondahl
--
For original art, music, pottery, and literature, visit my homepage
http://sondahl.com

To reply to me directly, don't forget to take out the "garbage" from my
address.

"Kathryn & Stuart Fields" wrote in message
...
Thanks to both of you.
I'm making up a canvas/cotton liner for a plastic utility pan (Aice
Hardware
special). This is my all around UTILITY pan for everything, so the liner
is
best. Currently there are several plastic buckets containing different
types of liquid clay becoming very smelly and waiting to come back
together
again.

[For the "hang it in a bag" technique to work, you'll need to lift it out of
the pan. If the clay's smelly, that usually indicates that some organic
matter has been introduced - usually it's fairly odor-free. ]

When you say separate the different kinds of clay, how critical is this?
All my clay is cone ten and most of it is separated by red or white
stoneware at least-- there's no porcelain -- but there is some mixing
amongst small scraps of differing either white or red (sounds like wines).
If its not critical good. If so,...

[You definitely don't want lumps of low-fire clay contaminating your
stoneware - they will melt when the rest is maturing, which could be bad. If
it's all stoneware, then it's not as bad, although you might run into some
cracking problems if the COE (coefficient of expansion) is different between
the clay types. If you've got a mixture of red and white clay of similar
COEs, just call it rose'...]

Andrew Werby

Kathy
"Brad Sondahl" wrote in message
...
Good answers all around from Andrew. You can also reclaim the sloppy
clay
just
by setting it on a piece of board or plywood--it avoids the potential
lime
popouts of plaster bits, and is easier than old pants to get the clay
onto
it.
I always wait until it's dried enough (sitting by the kiln) to put on
the
boards
without slopping off the sides.
Brad Sondahl
--
For original art, music, pottery, and literature, visit my homepage
http://sondahl.com

To reply to me directly, don't forget to take out the "garbage" from my
address.

"Kathryn & Stuart Fields" wrote in message
...
Thanks to both of you.
I'm making up a canvas/cotton liner for a plastic utility pan (Aice
Hardware
special). This is my all around UTILITY pan for everything, so the liner
is
best. Currently there are several plastic buckets containing different
types of liquid clay becoming very smelly and waiting to come back
together
again.

[For the "hang it in a bag" technique to work, you'll need to lift it out of
the pan. If the clay's smelly, that usually indicates that some organic
matter has been introduced - usually it's fairly odor-free. ]

When you say separate the different kinds of clay, how critical is this?
All my clay is cone ten and most of it is separated by red or white
stoneware at least-- there's no porcelain -- but there is some mixing
amongst small scraps of differing either white or red (sounds like wines).
If its not critical good. If so,...

[You definitely don't want lumps of low-fire clay contaminating your
stoneware - they will melt when the rest is maturing, which could be bad. If
it's all stoneware, then it's not as bad, although you might run into some
cracking problems if the COE (coefficient of expansion) is different between
the clay types. If you've got a mixture of red and white clay of similar
COEs, just call it rose'...]

Andrew Werby

Kathy
"Brad Sondahl" wrote in message
...
Good answers all around from Andrew. You can also reclaim the sloppy
clay
just
by setting it on a piece of board or plywood--it avoids the potential
lime
popouts of plaster bits, and is easier than old pants to get the clay
onto
it.
I always wait until it's dried enough (sitting by the kiln) to put on
the
boards
without slopping off the sides.
Brad Sondahl
--
For original art, music, pottery, and literature, visit my homepage
http://sondahl.com

To reply to me directly, don't forget to take out the "garbage" from my
address.

"Andrew Werby" wrote in
news:WUwrc.591$af3.55715@attbi_s51:


Reclaiming clay comes down to how much you value your time and what you
want to do in the time available.

The simple equation is. How much product (or practice making) could I make
in the time I have taken to reclaim, wedge and age the clay. Relate this
back to the price of a bag of clay and base your decision on this.

On a personal basis I do not reclaim scraps or trimmings as it is not
worthwhile and secondly I do not enjoy doing it. I just give them away or
dump them in the recycle bath tub at our pottery centre.

However, all clay can be recycled.

Regards

John W

I always dry my scraps first in a bucket for each type of clay.

Then I break down only FULLY DRIED clay with a sledgehammer (just jamming
it into a bucket 1 inch of clay at a time). Not hard to do using the side
of metal part hammer going down into bucket.

Then I put water into the bucket and mix overnight.

Then I put on a plaster pad I made approx 3 inches thick 20x20" wide to let
it set up and firm.

Once it has reached a firmness that can be wedged, I wedge it and put it
back into bags that
I originally purchased the clay in.

This takes a little time, but NEVER a failure. Actually extrudes better
this way.

Note: I label each 5 gal bucket with the type of scraps I'm putting into it
as not to mix.


Ed