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Linen thread for hemstitching



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 29th 04, 02:53 PM
Jenn Ridley
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joy beeson wrote:

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:58:09 -0800, "Penny S"
wrote:

linen cycle jersey? Now you have my attention!! Do tell....



Still haven't figured out how to close the sleeves. Pinning
is a real pain, I can't tie a drawstring one-handed, and I'm
adamantly-opposed to elastic in hot weather, even
linen-encased elastic.


Button through a pleat?

(ascii art alert)
_____
(shirt)_____________(_____)____
_______|______/
\______|_____________________shirt

^ this is the button

Gathered to a narrow cuff and button looped?

Linen band with d-rings an inch or two back from the sleeve end? Pull
to tighten.

Spring toggles on the end of a drawstring?

just a few thoughts....

jenn
--
Jenn Ridley

Ads
  #12  
Old January 29th 04, 03:38 PM
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Linen thread for hemstitching

lid (joy=A0beeson)
snip
Still haven't figured out how to close the sleeves. Pinning is a real
pain, I can't tie a drawstring one-handed, and I'm adamantly-opposed to
elastic in hot weather, even linen-encased elastic. Leaving them open
isn't an option; I went riding in straight sleeves once -- and scooped
up a wasp. =A0 Since I was still in the habit of getting a welt six
inches across -- somehow (knock wood) I outgrew that snip
Picture at
http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson...W/LINJERSY.HTM
I have removed the drawstring at the waist since taking the picture.
The long pants in the photo are also linen.
Joy Beeson
---
There's a nifty little detail on one of my linen shirts--a button,
and a buttonhole on the sleeve hem. You fold the sleeve in towards the
front, and button it. Velcro might be better since you're on a bike, but
I shudder to say linen and velcro in the same sentence.
Cea

  #13  
Old January 31st 04, 09:22 PM
SarahEmm
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On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:20:06 GMT, joy beeson
wrote:

Decent linen thread is hard to find, because there is so
much hand labor in making the truly-fine thread -- the
plants have to be harvested by pulling them up by the roots,
for example -- that many of the best strains have been
allowed to go extinct.

I use DMC Cordonnette when I need a good cotton thread.
Unfortunately, they no longer make it in sizes smaller than
100/3, equal to common #50 sewing thread.


Joy and everyone who answered -

Thank you very much for the suggestions. I particularly want to use
linen thread because googling suggested that anything else would have
a bad effect long term on the fabric (and if I am going to go to all
this effort, it had better last forever!) I did find a couple of
lacemaking sites, but I couldn't tell from their info what would be a
suitable thread. I doubt that embroidery thread will be strong enough
- when I hemstitch I use the double twist stitch which would probably
wear an embroidery thread too much. I'll try the 100/3 from Van
Sciver, which sounds as if it will be up to the job.

This is a great group, both friendly and helpful; I'm just sorry I
don't have time to join in much.

---
SarahEmm
  #14  
Old February 1st 04, 03:42 AM
Kay Lancaster
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Thank you very much for the suggestions. I particularly want to use
linen thread because googling suggested that anything else would have
a bad effect long term on the fabric (and if I am going to go to all
this effort, it had better last forever!) I did find a couple of


Nah, just match cellulosic thread to cellulosic fabric (rayon, cotton, linen,
ramie) and protein thread (silk) to protein (silk or wool). Polyester is
pH neutral and chemically pretty non-reactive, and can be used with either
cellulosic or protein fibers.

Kay Lancaster

  #15  
Old February 1st 04, 02:37 PM
SarahEmm
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On 1 Feb 2004 03:42:06 GMT, Kay Lancaster wrote:

Nah, just match cellulosic thread to cellulosic fabric (rayon, cotton, linen,
ramie) and protein thread (silk) to protein (silk or wool). Polyester is
pH neutral and chemically pretty non-reactive, and can be used with either
cellulosic or protein fibers.


Thanks, Kay, that's very helpful. Would I have any problem with
puckering if I use the polyester? and will it last as long as the
fabric?

---
Sarah

  #16  
Old February 2nd 04, 03:42 AM
Kay Lancaster
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Nah, just match cellulosic thread to cellulosic fabric (rayon, cotton, linen,
ramie) and protein thread (silk) to protein (silk or wool). Polyester is
pH neutral and chemically pretty non-reactive, and can be used with either
cellulosic or protein fibers.


Thanks, Kay, that's very helpful. Would I have any problem with
puckering if I use the polyester? and will it last as long as the
fabric?


Since cellulosic fabrics last best under low humidity, chances are the
polyester thread will far outlast the linen in the UK. By centuries.

Wind bobbins of polyester thread slowly... no pedal to the metal, please! --
that promotes stretch, which can lead to puckering. Play with the tension
adjustments a bit, and you shouldn't have problems.

Have you discovered Carol Ahles' book, Fine Machine Sewing? *Excellent*
chapters in there on hemstitching, and nice discussions of machine care,
tensioning, thread and needle choices, etc. Also the best instructions
on use of a hemming foot I've ever seen.

I personally think anyone who sews could learn something from the first
few chapters -- though it looks like it's really about "heirloom sewing"
("French handsewing by machine"), it's actually relevant to just about
any sort of home machine sewing.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...qid=1075685968
Carol's own website is http://www.carolahles.com

Kay


 




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