Best professional soldering iron??

Can anyone suggest the BEST soldering iron on the market today?

I used to have one that came from France, I believe...and used it with
a rheostat.

I think that there are professional models available today with a built
in temp controller...
but how good are they?

It also has to be 220/240 current since I'm no longer living in the US.

Any ideas?

Hexacon 155H.
It's a solid well-built workhorse - with 175 watts of power generation
and a heavy shaft to hold heat, it'll not cool off while working but
will continue to supply whatever heat you need to get the job done.
The hatchet handle makes it easy to hold for extended periods, and it
idles at 960 deg F so has no need for a controller. With a little
practice, you'll find everything (including lead) can easily be done at
that temperature. Instead of turning down the power, learn to use it.

I believe Hexacon makes 240 volt irons for the European market.

http://www.glasscampus.com/VGAF/page...py_hexacon.jpg

Thanks for this. Unfortunately, the url only shows a photo and the guy
looks like
he's using an iron with a rheostat...or am i seeing something else
there?

Who sells this iron? I'm definitely in the market for one.

thanks again.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for this. Unfortunately, the url only shows a photo and the guy
looks like
he's using an iron with a rheostat...or am i seeing something else
there?

Who sells this iron? I'm definitely in the market for one.

thanks again.


Before buying a large, in size, heavy iron of traditional wire wrap
construction, consider and research the irons using a good size Ceramic
heating element. They are much lighter in weight, greatly reducing arm and
hand fatigue. Take a look at the Hakko brand irons. They offer a heavy
ceramic heating element, when I say heavy I do not mean weight, I mean in
capacity to heat, and only 60 watts takes temps just under 1000 deg. After
a short learning curve of practice time, you will be able to use these
without rheostat, and with what ever sort of construction method you so
chose. I use them to solder lead, foil, copper, brass and zinc, regularly,
and they are light weight. I am a pretty good size guy, with pretty good
size arm strength, but everybody doesn't.

I'm willing to consider anything at this point. My big problem is
shipping to western Turkey!! and of course the right
current...220-240...

Can you recommend a company that has European-correct electrical
equipment?

thanks,

Although there is a rheostat in the photo, that iron isn't plugged into
it. The photo was taken during one of our "Soldering Clinic" classes
wherein we demonstrated several different models of iron. The photo
clearly displays a typical response from a first time user.

We sell Hexacon, as does Sunshine Glassworks and several different US
suppliers.

http://www.victorianartglass.biz/pro...20hexacon.html

wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm willing to consider anything at this point. My big problem is
shipping to western Turkey!! and of course the right
current...220-240...

Can you recommend a company that has European-correct electrical
equipment?

thanks,


Check this web page for someone nearby,
http://www.hakko.com/english/company/overseas.html Hungary was the closest,
but check in an electronics store near you, they sell to that market
primarily. We use the Hakko 456, but I saw no voltage change, and given
what and iron is, nothing more than a resistance tool, might be just change
the plug, but that would be something to look into there.

hmmm...why is then that the photo on the front page
http://www.glasscampus.com/ shows people using Weller 100's which by
the way are plugged into controllers? I thought you'd said that even
Weller 100 were wimpy irons.

wrote:
Although there is a rheostat in the photo, that iron isn't plugged into
it. The photo was taken during one of our "Soldering Clinic" classes
wherein we demonstrated several different models of iron. The photo
clearly displays a typical response from a first time user.

We sell Hexacon, as does Sunshine Glassworks and several different US
suppliers.

http://www.victorianartglass.biz/pro...20hexacon.html

And even more to the point...the Weller 100 is a temp controlled tip. It
won't heat beyond 700*F, so what would be the purpose of a controller,
anyway? IIRC, Weller even says NOT to use a controller with that iron.


wrote in message
oups.com...
hmmm...why is then that the photo on the front page
http://www.glasscampus.com/ shows people using Weller 100's which by
the way are plugged into controllers? I thought you'd said that even
Weller 100 were wimpy irons.

wrote:
Although there is a rheostat in the photo, that iron isn't plugged into
it. The photo was taken during one of our "Soldering Clinic" classes
wherein we demonstrated several different models of iron. The photo
clearly displays a typical response from a first time user.

We sell Hexacon, as does Sunshine Glassworks and several different US
suppliers.


http://www.victorianartglass.biz/pro...%20soldering%2
0hexacon.html

I recommend against using a controller but don't try to force people to
work only with our methods or our choice of tools - even when they're
making poor choices. Everyone choses their own personal way to do
everything. I think a controller (any controller) SNUP. Instead of
cutting down the incoming power, you should learn to increase the speed
at which you work. Even with a dinky little Hakko, you can solder at
full temperature. You just can't do it for long before it bags out.
The Weller will hold up a bit longer, but not much.

We even have a few naive individuals in our Cutting Clinics that still
like to cut up scraps of paper for templates to cut glass. We try hard
(VERY hard) to convince them those paper bits are a total waste of time
and paper, but some seem happy dicking about with them so we leave them
to their time wasting practices. It's their time, why would I care if
they use it foolishly? .....whether with an underpowered soldering
iron, or a needlessly complicated cutting practice.

I think Weller's are superior to Hakko 456 (60 watts is completely
inadequate) and inferior to medium and large Hexacons. I think the
Weller and Hakko are suitable for small jobs only. I consider both to
have insufficient power to be adequate for professional studio use on
other than small jobs. We use the Wellers for 3D models and Hexacons
for everything else. The most effective way to convince someone that
the Weller or Hakko is inferior is give them an opporunity to try out
the Hexacon. It's also the most effective way to sell a Hexacon.