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Designer Must-See:Kleibacker online/narrow bias tubes
I started off at Thread's mag, reading 'Charles Kleibacker: Celebrating an American Original', then segued into a 'showing' of his designs at www.kent.edu/fashion. Sort of a retrospective of a show which was held at the Page Palmer Gallery from early 2001 to 2002, titled: 'Charles Kleibacker: Master of Bias'. For those of us who never or rarely get to drool over master works at showings and museums, this is a decent representation, although I would have liked more close-up shots. The designs are fabulous, the execution so flawless, (most of it pure hand work), it makes me want to drop to my knees out of respect to such a master, and knock my forehead on the floor three times. I'm in awe. That's not the sort of irreverence you have come to expect from me, though, so, without further ado, here are a few salient remarks. I have read, many times, that good design is timeless, and the pictures of Kleibacker's work proves it. And, be sure to check out the sidebar articles, too, featuring other designers--yes, good design is timeless--OK, except for the Joan Crawford outfits...(NO, no, put the hangar away, I'll be good, Mommy!) Intimidation is the name of the game here. Back to Kleibacker: cut and drape is flawless, yet I cannot imagine wearing a brown or chestnut colored evening gown ('74 silk ottoman and '90's silk chestnut jersey). These look like they were outed from Diana Vreeland's closet. Check out the two brilliantly red outfits. One is red Qiana*. (sp?) All they need is a huge gold cross around the models necks. Looks uncomfortably like Mr K. was rootling in the Bishop's cupboards, or some minor prelate is running around in his BVDs. To entice: necklines fit beautifully, bodices are glove-smooth. And check out the tiny shoulder straps--it can be done, so I'll have to go back to the drawing board on this one. I'm assuming they are bias. Who was asking about making very narrow straps? Cea |
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#2
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Cea, I've had the great fortune to see Charles Kliebacker in person many times,
and his work at close range. He's a brilliant engineer, and has an incredible grasp of how to flatter the female form. I love the fluidity of his designs. The red "bishop" getup you mention is apparently a cloak. But can you imagine the impracticality of pulling something over your head when you arrive at your destination? I much prefer another wrap I saw of his--it was made of plaid dupioni. Wish I could remember how it was made. I'd hoped there would be a photo on the website, but no luck. One of the secrets of sewing bias that Charles shares is to pull the living daylights out of it as you sew it (but not before, which is very important). That way, the stretch is built into the stitch, and won't pop, while still allowing the fabric to move and shift with the body. He also does this with the bias tubes, and you can make them extremely narrow this way, but it takes practice. Claire Shaeffer has directions on how to make bias tubes, combining Charles' technique and other designers' methods, in her Couture Sewing book, if I remember correctly. She often demonstrates this technique in her hands-on classes. Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati |
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