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  #1  
Old September 18th 03, 01:47 PM
Bead Sprite
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Posts: n/a
Default thin clay...

Hi there!

I introduced myself yesterday and I now have a question.

I like to make very thin pieces from polymer clay but I'm finding that they
don't harden enough, they stay very flexible. This is the case for all
clays that I've used i.e. Premo, Fimo, Sculpey III etc..

Anyone found a way to harden them?

Thanks

--
Amanda
http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1


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  #2  
Old September 18th 03, 05:08 PM
Diana Curtis
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Default

They need an armature if you dont want the flexiblity.
Diana

--
http://photos.yahoo.com/lunamom44
"Bead Sprite" wrote in message
...
Hi there!

I introduced myself yesterday and I now have a question.

I like to make very thin pieces from polymer clay but I'm finding that

they
don't harden enough, they stay very flexible. This is the case for all
clays that I've used i.e. Premo, Fimo, Sculpey III etc..

Anyone found a way to harden them?

Thanks

--
Amanda
http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1




  #3  
Old September 18th 03, 08:39 PM
DianeGlassAttic
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Posts: n/a
Default

Hi Amanda,

Unfortunately, flexibility in thin areas is a characteristic of all polymer
clays (much less so with the Sculpeys though, so I'm surprised you didn't find
that better... Sculpey does give up strength for its stiffness though).

If you want to make something stiffer, you can use an armature inside as has
been mentioned (cardstock to metal, e.g.), add a backing sheet of clay, or coat
with liquid clay and rebake. Baking longer might help a *bit.*
Those should all help, though I don't know if that will be enough for what you
want. What kind of thing are you making where it becomes a problem?


Diane B.
http://glassattic.com --polymer clay "encyclopedia"

E-mail: (don't use AOL address)
  #4  
Old September 19th 03, 01:18 AM
Bead Sprite
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Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks very much for the advice! Well, I make jewellery and want to make
some leaves that will be all clustered together and, well, I don't mind them
being flexible myself, I just thought that it might not be acceptable to
sell them like that. If they're just a strong though, then I guess it would
be alright to leave them as they are (or 'leaf 'them as they are)

Actually, maybe you can help with another question that I asked over in
rec.crafts.beads? As I say, I want to string all the leaves together so
that they look like they're growing and are all clustered together, kind of
on a vine, like ivy. I'm wondering how best to do this as I've not done a
great deal of bead weaving. I've pierced the holes through the stems
horizontally, if that helps.

Many thanks

--
Amanda
http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1

"DianeGlassAttic" wrote in message
...
Hi Amanda,

Unfortunately, flexibility in thin areas is a characteristic of all

polymer
clays (much less so with the Sculpeys though, so I'm surprised you didn't

find
that better... Sculpey does give up strength for its stiffness though).

If you want to make something stiffer, you can use an armature inside as

has
been mentioned (cardstock to metal, e.g.), add a backing sheet of clay, or

coat
with liquid clay and rebake. Baking longer might help a *bit.*
Those should all help, though I don't know if that will be enough for what

you
want. What kind of thing are you making where it becomes a problem?


Diane B.
http://glassattic.com --polymer clay "encyclopedia"

E-mail: (don't use AOL address)



  #5  
Old September 19th 03, 02:47 PM
Diane Villano
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Amanda,

I have a leaf necklace at: http://www.scpcg.org/gallery.htm that uses a
branch fringe technique. Is that something like what you were thinking of?

Diane Villano


"Bead Sprite" wrote in message
...
snip
Actually, maybe you can help with another question that I asked over in
rec.crafts.beads? As I say, I want to string all the leaves together so
that they look like they're growing and are all clustered together, kind

of
on a vine, like ivy. I'm wondering how best to do this as I've not done a
great deal of bead weaving. I've pierced the holes through the stems
horizontally, if that helps.

Many thanks

--
Amanda
http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1



  #6  
Old September 22nd 03, 07:12 PM
Eni Oken
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Posts: n/a
Default

Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay called
Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple of
hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have tried to
work as follows:
1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as
possible. Let air dry for a day.
2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole thing
together.

Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with Magic
Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when used a
little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer clay
makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality of
the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and ornamentation.
--

Eni
-----------------
http://www.oken3d.com


  #7  
Old September 23rd 03, 11:03 AM
Bead Sprite
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

That's really helpful, Eni! Many thanks indeed for letting me know as I
never hearl of Magic Sculp before and it sounds like just what I need! I
live in the UK, so it may not be available over here. Do you know of any
stockists online?

Thanks again!

--
Amanda
http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1



"Eni Oken" wrote in message
...
Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay called
Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple of
hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have tried

to
work as follows:
1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as
possible. Let air dry for a day.
2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole thing
together.

Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with

Magic
Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when used

a
little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer clay
makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality of
the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and

ornamentation.
--

Eni
-----------------
http://www.oken3d.com




  #8  
Old September 24th 03, 03:45 PM
Katherine Dewey
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Milliput, a UK product, is similar to Magic Sculpt. Another epoxy clay
or sculpting compound is Aves Epoxy Sculpt. For best results in
achieving a thin sheet with all of these products, knead thoroughly and
let it rest for an hour. Roll in-between sheets of waxed paper that's
been coated with vaseline and let rest again. Just before it cures or
sets (about 2 hours from first mixing) you should be ready to shape it.
Polymer clay will adhere, but best adhesion occurs before the epoxy
completely cures.

You can freeze mixed epoxy for up to 3 days to extend the working time.
You can also mix it, once kneaded, with polymer clay. I like a blend of
2/3rds epoxy to 1/3 polymer (Fimo seems to work best) for a medium
that's easier to use, though not as strong, and has a working time of
about 5 hours before it sets up.

Hope this helps,
Katherine Dewey


Bead Sprite wrote:

That's really helpful, Eni! Many thanks indeed for letting me know as I
never hearl of Magic Sculp before and it sounds like just what I need! I
live in the UK, so it may not be available over here. Do you know of any
stockists online?

Thanks again!

--
Amanda
http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1

"Eni Oken" wrote in message
...
Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay called
Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple of
hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have tried

to
work as follows:
1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as
possible. Let air dry for a day.
2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole thing
together.

Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with

Magic
Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when used

a
little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer clay
makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality of
the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and

ornamentation.
--

Eni
-----------------
http://www.oken3d.com


  #9  
Old October 2nd 03, 02:37 PM
Bead Sprite
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

O! This only just showed up on my server, so sorry for delayed response!
Many many thanks for the great advice, I really appreciate it!

Take care!

--
Amanda
http://www/picturetrail.com/amandarose1
Replace 'nocrap' with 'hotmail' to reply

"Katherine Dewey" wrote in message
...
Milliput, a UK product, is similar to Magic Sculpt. Another epoxy clay
or sculpting compound is Aves Epoxy Sculpt. For best results in
achieving a thin sheet with all of these products, knead thoroughly and
let it rest for an hour. Roll in-between sheets of waxed paper that's
been coated with vaseline and let rest again. Just before it cures or
sets (about 2 hours from first mixing) you should be ready to shape it.
Polymer clay will adhere, but best adhesion occurs before the epoxy
completely cures.

You can freeze mixed epoxy for up to 3 days to extend the working time.
You can also mix it, once kneaded, with polymer clay. I like a blend of
2/3rds epoxy to 1/3 polymer (Fimo seems to work best) for a medium
that's easier to use, though not as strong, and has a working time of
about 5 hours before it sets up.

Hope this helps,
Katherine Dewey


Bead Sprite wrote:

That's really helpful, Eni! Many thanks indeed for letting me know as I
never hearl of Magic Sculp before and it sounds like just what I need!

I
live in the UK, so it may not be available over here. Do you know of

any
stockists online?

Thanks again!

--
Amanda
http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1

"Eni Oken" wrote in message
...
Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay

called
Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple

of
hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have

tried
to
work as follows:
1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as
possible. Let air dry for a day.
2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole

thing
together.

Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with

Magic
Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when

used
a
little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer

clay
makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality

of
the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and

ornamentation.
--

Eni
-----------------
http://www.oken3d.com




 




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