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Double Width Weaving help.. Els or Helen or someone???



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 24th 03, 06:27 PM
Cher
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Posts: n/a
Default Double Width Weaving help.. Els or Helen or someone???

Hi all,

I still can't figure this double width weaving out at all... If I want to
do double my 36ins width at the moment on a four shaft table loom.. Say I
want a piece to be 60 ins...can someone tell me in laymans terms (idot proof
terms) how to calculate the sett, and also the thread up..now do I warp two
strands together and count them as one, say the yarn is 8EPI or do I do the
whole lot twice...lol. Then doing a plain threadup, what do I do for
lifts. I'm still learning to read patterns but I'm reading it as lifts..
4:2:1:
2:
3:2:1:
1:

is that right??????
I'll never learn to read the lifts on the chart...Where do you start to read
them from, I'm reading them from the top down from the thread up side to
the outer edge....is that right???

Cheers......Cher


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  #2  
Old July 25th 03, 04:35 AM
Els van Dam
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Default

In article , "Cher"
wrote:

Hello Cher, it is not all that difficult. One layer is woven on shafts 1
and 2 and the second layer on 3 and 4. you double up on your warp. Thus
when you use normally 4 ends per inch, you now warp 8 ends per inch. that
is because you have two layer sitting on top of one and other. The only
trouble I have had (I have woven 12 balnkets for friends and family over
the years), I have to carefully read the threading and pulling through the
reed, where you turn the corner. Everytime I do go back and read the
notes over for it.

I now have gotten my book out (Double Weave, by Palmy Weigle) page 76.

This is what it states:

Where the fold of the fabric is, sley uneven threads, to not get two ends
on the same shaft/harness next to one and other. That would mean that you
get a double end in the middle of your material.

Threading is straight 1,2,3,4 repeat. The top layer is on harnesses 1 and
2 and the bottom on harnesses 3 and 4. Use a reed, that will let you
sley, the double layer. dor instance if normally you sley two per dent you
will now sley 4 per dent.

When you weave the top layer you lift harnes one up and weave, now you
weave the top layer of the bottom part (open up the material in your mind
and you are really still weaving the top part, right.....use a piece of
paper if you have a hard time understanding it and fold it, now you can
see where you shuttle needs to go) In order to weave the top part of your
bottom layer you have to have the top layer out of the way, so you lift
both harness and and two and naturally the first harnes of the bottom
layer, that is three (one two and tree) now weave. Now you have to weave
the bottom layer of the bottome layer ( if you did not do it in this order
you would get a tube and close both ends) lift one and two out of the way
again and you now swich three with four ( ane two and four) weave. the
only shed left to weave is the bottom part of the the top layer so you
lift two and weave.

Cher make a small sample and try it out, try to close boths sides and see
what happens, doing is understanding, I find and mistakes are needed to
learn.

Happy double weaving and....... no Katherine she is not drinking and
weaving across the road into the uncoming trafic....how could you think
that..LOL

Els

I have also learned that you do not use fussy yarn like mohair for double
weaving, because it will stick together when you do twice the set through
the reed.

Hi all,

I still can't figure this double width weaving out at all... If I want to
do double my 36ins width at the moment on a four shaft table loom.. Say I
want a piece to be 60 ins...can someone tell me in laymans terms (idot proof
terms) how to calculate the sett, and also the thread up..now do I warp two
strands together and count them as one, say the yarn is 8EPI or do I do the
whole lot twice...lol. Then doing a plain threadup, what do I do for
lifts. I'm still learning to read patterns but I'm reading it as lifts..
4:2:1:
2:
3:2:1:
1:

is that right??????
I'll never learn to read the lifts on the chart...Where do you start to read
them from, I'm reading them from the top down from the thread up side to
the outer edge....is that right???

Cheers......Cher


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  #3  
Old July 25th 03, 07:14 AM
Cher
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Hi Els,

Thanks for your return, now that was what I didn't think about....doubling
up in the dent...OK I'll do my sample and change my 8dent reed for a
6dent...the largest I have..lol. I may whizz over to the workshop and loan
a 4dent as we break up on Thursday, so this may be the answer.

I'm going to print this off and do a sample as you say.

Cheers.....I'll let you know how it goes....Cher.
"Els van Dam" wrote in message
...
In article , "Cher"
wrote:

Hello Cher, it is not all that difficult. One layer is woven on shafts 1
and 2 and the second layer on 3 and 4. you double up on your warp. Thus
when you use normally 4 ends per inch, you now warp 8 ends per inch. that
is because you have two layer sitting on top of one and other. The only
trouble I have had (I have woven 12 balnkets for friends and family over
the years), I have to carefully read the threading and pulling through the
reed, where you turn the corner. Everytime I do go back and read the
notes over for it.

I now have gotten my book out (Double Weave, by Palmy Weigle) page 76.

This is what it states:

Where the fold of the fabric is, sley uneven threads, to not get two ends
on the same shaft/harness next to one and other. That would mean that you
get a double end in the middle of your material.

Threading is straight 1,2,3,4 repeat. The top layer is on harnesses 1 and
2 and the bottom on harnesses 3 and 4. Use a reed, that will let you
sley, the double layer. dor instance if normally you sley two per dent you
will now sley 4 per dent.

When you weave the top layer you lift harnes one up and weave, now you
weave the top layer of the bottom part (open up the material in your mind
and you are really still weaving the top part, right.....use a piece of
paper if you have a hard time understanding it and fold it, now you can
see where you shuttle needs to go) In order to weave the top part of your
bottom layer you have to have the top layer out of the way, so you lift
both harness and and two and naturally the first harnes of the bottom
layer, that is three (one two and tree) now weave. Now you have to weave
the bottom layer of the bottome layer ( if you did not do it in this order
you would get a tube and close both ends) lift one and two out of the way
again and you now swich three with four ( ane two and four) weave. the
only shed left to weave is the bottom part of the the top layer so you
lift two and weave.

Cher make a small sample and try it out, try to close boths sides and see
what happens, doing is understanding, I find and mistakes are needed to
learn.

Happy double weaving and....... no Katherine she is not drinking and
weaving across the road into the uncoming trafic....how could you think
that..LOL

Els

I have also learned that you do not use fussy yarn like mohair for double
weaving, because it will stick together when you do twice the set through
the reed.

Hi all,

I still can't figure this double width weaving out at all... If I want

to
do double my 36ins width at the moment on a four shaft table loom.. Say

I
want a piece to be 60 ins...can someone tell me in laymans terms (idot

proof
terms) how to calculate the sett, and also the thread up..now do I warp

two
strands together and count them as one, say the yarn is 8EPI or do I do

the
whole lot twice...lol. Then doing a plain threadup, what do I do for
lifts. I'm still learning to read patterns but I'm reading it as

lifts..
4:2:1:
2:
3:2:1:
1:

is that right??????
I'll never learn to read the lifts on the chart...Where do you start to

read
them from, I'm reading them from the top down from the thread up side

to
the outer edge....is that right???

Cheers......Cher


---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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--
delete doba to email me.....:=))



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  #4  
Old July 25th 03, 07:19 AM
Cher
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Default

Hi Helen, thanks for your return, I've got to get my head around this .
.... . it is driving me nuts, thanks for your info, along with Els answer,
I'm going to print it off and take it up to my weaving shed, and do a sample
to see how it goes..if I still can't get to grips with it, I'll be
back.....lol

The book I've pulled out to look at is the Interviews Handwoven magazine
presents The Weavers Companion....I've got several others, but it is just
reading the drafts for the pattern lifts that confuse me, although I've now
studied the lifts on the draft for the tabby(plain) weave, and the Twill
lifts and see how it is written....I think...

Anyway.....practise practise....will do a sample or two and let you know how
it goes..

Thanks for the return......Cheers.....Cher
"Helen "Halla" Fleischer" wrote in message
...
I was hoping someone else would answer this! I've only done it once and
that was on a jack loom. I don't recall if I double-sleyed, but I guess I
must have since my book says it must be sett twice as many to the inch as
for regular weaves. It also recommends an odd number of threads, to avoid
two adjacent threads at the edge being woven alike. And it says use a more
open set at the fold edge. I think I didn't catch that last warning, at

the
time, and had a tight stripe there because of it. Says to spread it so
those edge 3 dents have 1/3 fewer threads than the rest. Yes, threading is
straight twill. Your treadling numbers are similar to the chart I used

from
A Handweaver's Pattern Book. I have it as:
1:2:4:
2:3:4:
2:
4:

In yours, if I am reading it right, you look to produce tubular weave
rather than folded double-width. I read it that you're alternating front
and back sheds. In the treadling above it goes back, front, front, back,
repeat; rather than back, front, back, front, repeat.

Biggest caution I can give is to check your back sheds for sticking

threads
every single time! They hide down there and missing one means your cloth
layers are stitched together at that point.

| On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 18:27:01 +0100, "Cher"

wrote:

Hi all,

I still can't figure this double width weaving out at all... If I want

to
do double my 36ins width at the moment on a four shaft table loom.. Say

I
want a piece to be 60 ins...can someone tell me in laymans terms (idot

proof
terms) how to calculate the sett, and also the thread up..now do I warp

two
strands together and count them as one, say the yarn is 8EPI or do I do

the
whole lot twice...lol. Then doing a plain threadup, what do I do for
lifts. I'm still learning to read patterns but I'm reading it as lifts..
4:2:1:
2:
3:2:1:
1:

is that right??????
I'll never learn to read the lifts on the chart...Where do you start to

read
them from, I'm reading them from the top down from the thread up side to
the outer edge....is that right???

Cheers......Cher


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Helen "Halla" Fleischer,
Fantasy & Fiber Artist in Fairland, MD USA
http://home.covad.net/~drgandalf/halla/



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  #5  
Old July 26th 03, 09:12 AM
Cher
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Default

Thanks Els...haven't had time yet, but hopefully next
week...lol.....Cheers....Cher
"Els van Dam" wrote in message
...
In article , "Cher"
wrote:

Hi Helen, thanks for your return, I've got to get my head around this

..
... . it is driving me nuts, thanks for your info, along with Els

answer,
I'm going to print it off and take it up to my weaving shed, and do a

sample
to see how it goes..if I still can't get to grips with it, I'll be
back.....lol



Standing by.....

Els

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Version: 6.0.501 / Virus Database: 299 - Release Date: 14/07/03


 




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