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#1
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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?
HI Folks
I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between. The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my panel that way. I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a 'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked... I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences? Thanks Adrian - West Cork, Ireland www.inspired-glass.com |
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#2
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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?
I've done it quite a few times. The overall size of the panel should
somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered. Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit) will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the spacer/dessicant/sealant. The two pieces of float are sealed together, and the art panel just "floats" in the cavity. "Adrian" wrote in message ... HI Folks I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between. The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my panel that way. I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a 'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked... I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences? Thanks Adrian - West Cork, Ireland www.inspired-glass.com |
#3
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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?
Hi Moon
Thank for that. It seemed like a fairly simple exercise (or so the glazing company guy said). He wanted an extra 1/2" on each side of the panel - so a 12" panel would become a 13" sealed unit. Not a problem so long as you know the rules in advance! g Most of the stuff they do this way is 'faux-stained' - the 'plastic lead & coloured film' stuff... - but he said that they'd been asked about 'real' stained glass... It'd be a solution for those customers who want their stained glass panels fitted to exterior windows.... ....think I'll make up something simple and get it encapsulated as a sample.. Thanks Adrian Moonraker wrote: I've done it quite a few times. The overall size of the panel should somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered. Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit) will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the spacer/dessicant/sealant. The two pieces of float are sealed together, and the art panel just "floats" in the cavity. "Adrian" wrote in message ... HI Folks I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between. The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my panel that way. I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a 'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked... I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences? Thanks Adrian - West Cork, Ireland www.inspired-glass.com |
#4
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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?
On Jan 10, 6:20*am, Adrian wrote:
Hi Moon Thank for that. It seemed like a fairly simple exercise (or so the glazing company guy said). He wanted an extra 1/2" on each side of the panel - so a 12" panel would become a 13" sealed unit. Not a problem so long as you know the rules in advance! g Most of the stuff they do this way is 'faux-stained' - the 'plastic lead & coloured film' stuff... - but he said that they'd been asked about 'real' stained glass... It'd be a solution for those customers who want their stained glass panels fitted to exterior windows.... ...think I'll make up something simple and get it encapsulated as a sample.. Thanks Adrian * Moonraker wrote: I've done it quite a few times. *The overall size of the panel should somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered.. Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit) will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the spacer/dessicant/sealant. *The two pieces of float are sealed together, and the art panel just "floats" in the cavity. "Adrian" wrote in message ... HI Folks I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between. The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my panel that way. I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a 'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked... I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences? Thanks Adrian - West Cork, Ireland www.inspired-glass.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Most spacer bars are about 3/8" wide. I build my work to be 1" smaller than the finished unit. This allows about 1/8" on the side for the butyl to fill. Keep in mind that if your work is heavy then you'll need something like small neoprene blocks inserted into the butyl on the bottom to keep the weight of the panel from pushing down on the spacer bar. If this window gets a lot of sun, believe me...you'll want those blocks in there. My units are all built with aluminum spacer bars and have desicant inside the bars. Most shops won't guarentee that the unit won't fail...something to consider. 99% of all my units are 5/8" thick overall. |
#5
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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?
HI Chemo
Chemo the Clown wrote: On Jan 10, 6:20 am, Adrian wrote: Hi Moon Thank for that. It seemed like a fairly simple exercise (or so the glazing company guy said). He wanted an extra 1/2" on each side of the panel - so a 12" panel would become a 13" sealed unit. Not a problem so long as you know the rules in advance! g Most of the stuff they do this way is 'faux-stained' - the 'plastic lead & coloured film' stuff... - but he said that they'd been asked about 'real' stained glass... It'd be a solution for those customers who want their stained glass panels fitted to exterior windows.... ...think I'll make up something simple and get it encapsulated as a sample.. Thanks Adrian Moonraker wrote: I've done it quite a few times. The overall size of the panel should somewhat dictate the thickness of the float, and if it is going to be installed in a door or over a bathtub, the sheet glass must be tempered. Remember that the overall finished size of the IGU (insulated glass unit) will be 1/2 to 3/4" bigger than your art glass panel because of the spacer/dessicant/sealant. The two pieces of float are sealed together, and the art panel just "floats" in the cavity. "Adrian" wrote in message ... HI Folks I've been asked about providing some 'double-glazed' units with my tiffany-style, copper-foiled, panels 'sandwiched' in-between. The local glazing company is very happy to do the 'sandwiching - reckons that he'll use two thin spacers between the float glass, and center my panel that way. I understand that the finished effect won't be quite the same as seeing a 'raw' panel - but, as I say, customers have asked... I was planning on geting a small sample panel made up - before I do this does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or experiences? Thanks Adrian - West Cork, Ireland www.inspired-glass.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Most spacer bars are about 3/8" wide. I build my work to be 1" smaller than the finished unit. This allows about 1/8" on the side for the butyl to fill. Keep in mind that if your work is heavy then you'll need something like small neoprene blocks inserted into the butyl on the bottom to keep the weight of the panel from pushing down on the spacer bar. Ah right - that's a thought.... is that something that your d/g unit man supplied - or did yu source that yourself ? If this window gets a lot of sun, believe me...you'll want those blocks in there. Probably best to work on the assumption that we'll get some sun - though last year was pretty wet & miserable ! My units are all built with aluminum spacer bars and have desicant inside the bars. Most shops won't guarentee that the unit won't fail...something to consider. 99% of all my units are 5/8" thick overall. OK - thanks. The local d/g man did say 'we'll not guarantee it' - but I guess he's just covering his a**e g He also suggested the use of small 'bump stops' in the centre of wider windows - in case the stained glass should bend or warp.... I guess that's a possibility, if the window was (say) top-hinged - and left open in the heat of the summer sun. He reckoned that these little bump stops were all but invisible in use... OK - thanks ! Adrian |
#6
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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?
On Jan 10, 9:46*am, Adrian wrote:
HI Chemo Ah right - that's a thought.... is that something that your d/g unit man supplied - or did yu source that yourself ? I have a flat glass shop that does my units. I've worked with for almost 20 years. They discount to me and I discount to them on specialty glass. It's a good business relationship that benefits both of us. OK - thanks. The local d/g man did say 'we'll not guarantee it' - but I guess he's just covering his a**e g Not only that but he can't control the weight of the panel inside. Lots of the new sidelight casing only have about a 5/8" wide lip so with a 3/8" spacer bar and an 1/8 for the butyl there's not much covered up with the wood trim. The inner unit doesn't have to sink much before you can see a space at the very top. He also suggested the use of small 'bump stops' in the centre of wider windows - in case the stained glass should bend or warp.... I guess that's a possibility, if the window was (say) top-hinged - and left open in the heat of the summer sun. He reckoned that these little bump stops were all but invisible in use... Not sure about the bump stop thing. Leaded units are really close to 5/16" thick and with the space inside the IG being 3/8, there's not much chance, if any, of the stained glass warping or bending. Butyl is strong stuff. Same with the adhesive on the SuperSpacer. Get a small unit built...let it sit around a month or two and then try to take it apart. Chemo OK - thanks ! Adrian- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#7
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Double-glazed units & stained glass ?
HI Chemo
Chemo the Clown wrote: On Jan 10, 9:46 am, Adrian wrote: HI Chemo Ah right - that's a thought.... is that something that your d/g unit man supplied - or did yu source that yourself ? I have a flat glass shop that does my units. I've worked with for almost 20 years. They discount to me and I discount to them on specialty glass. It's a good business relationship that benefits both of us. Excellent - that's the kind of thing I'm hoping for with my local d/g shop. They used to refer clients to another studio - but he retired last year - so I'm hoping to build up one of those 'win/win' relationships g OK - thanks. The local d/g man did say 'we'll not guarantee it' - but I guess he's just covering his a**e g Not only that but he can't control the weight of the panel inside. Lots of the new sidelight casing only have about a 5/8" wide lip so with a 3/8" spacer bar and an 1/8 for the butyl there's not much covered up with the wood trim. The inner unit doesn't have to sink much before you can see a space at the very top. Fair point... He also suggested the use of small 'bump stops' in the centre of wider windows - in case the stained glass should bend or warp.... I guess that's a possibility, if the window was (say) top-hinged - and left open in the heat of the summer sun. He reckoned that these little bump stops were all but invisible in use... Not sure about the bump stop thing. Leaded units are really close to 5/16" thick and with the space inside the IG being 3/8, there's not much chance, if any, of the stained glass warping or bending. Butyl is strong stuff. Same with the adhesive on the SuperSpacer. Get a small unit built...let it sit around a month or two and then try to take it apart. I was planning on doing the panels tiffany-style - which will maybe be a little thinner - but I think the best plan is to suck it & see... Thanks Adrian |
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